Norwegian Sailing Pram by Desertanimal - Model Shipways - Scale 1:12

[Kenchington]

On 5/18/2024 at 1:12 PM, Desertanimal said:

Some final questions.-- How should the edges of the planks on the bottom be handled? Should they be left square or rounded over? 

 

The instructions mention that sometimes the skeg has a protective brass cover on it. I think that could look nice. Can anyone direct me to on details on that?

 

Destertanimnal asked those questions nearly a year ago but I'm running through build logs in preparation for my own pram. Since nobody else seems to have offered much of an answer in the interim and the information may be useful to others:

 

Full-size, exposed plank edges on the exterior of a lapstrake hull would usually only be slightly rounded, enough to avoid splintering. That would look like a sharp 90 degrees at 1:12. I'd leave it with whatever softening you get from sanding the planks.

 

Full-size, the brass "cover" is half-oval in section and supplied in 6ft lengths and various widths, to suit the application. (Half the width of the wood to be protected would be good.) It is brass, not bronze, and has to be drilled, countersunk and screwed at 4-inch intervals. Best to curve the ends over the forward and aft ends of the wood being protected, lest an exposed end of brass catch on something and the strip get ripped off.

 

How best to represent that to scale, I have no idea. I won't attempt it on my pram.

 

Trevor

 

P.S: I wrote that the brass strip is "supplied". It is in the UK and the US but there doesn't seem to be a source in Canada and only one in the US might ship here. That's more than annoying when gribble have eaten away an old false keel and its replacement needs metallic protection!

[Kenchington]

On 5/30/2024 at 11:02 AM, Desertanimal said:

I understand all the brass should be blackened in order to look like iron.

I see that said too but I can't think why.

 

Brass should not be used in any structural role in a boat (though many a manufacturer of boats as small as the pram does cut corners with brass screws!). However, the highest quality wood boats have a lot of bronze fastenings and fittings. Brass and bronze each come in many varieties, though each of the two families tends to look quite different from the other after a bit of marine corrosion.  But, if you are building a model of a boat in as-new condition, brass is a better substitute for bronze than basswood is for pine or oak. Yet we opt for practicality in our wood-type choices.

 

Anyway, if a modern, recreational wooden boat didn't have bronze fittings and fastenings, they would be shiny stainless steel, not blackened iron. So, feel free to expose lovely brass on a model pram or paint it silvery. But I can't see any point in blackening it. 

 

Trevor

[Kenchington]

On 6/2/2024 at 9:54 PM, Desertanimal said:

After looking at some pictures online, I noticed some tillers had a more ergonomic shape. So I decided to make one from scratch. It has the same overall dimensions as the original for the most part. It might be completely inconsistent with this time period or boat. If so please let me know.

 

Chris

Chis,

 

One last contribution for tonight:

 

I think your tiller is wonderful! The kit-supplied one is a disgrace and I have been wondering how to improve on it. Your version is an inspiration.

 

For what it may be worth to others facing the same challenge, here is another alternative (this time at full-size):