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Ryland Craze

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About Ryland Craze

  • Birthday 05/05/1949

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Midlothian, Virginia

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1,927 profile views
  1. Thanks Chuck. We are already registered for the Northeast Joint Clubs Show. We look forward to seeing you guys. We will also be spending some time in Lyndhurst and touring NYC. I will also be visiting my favorite place to eat as pictured below.
  2. Thanks Michael for your comment and for the "Likes". I have completed the lining off of the port side of the hull. Now I can start the planking.
  3. Your Longboat is looking very nice. Thanks for the tip on installing the simulated nails as each plank is installed. I hope to see your model at a future SMSNJ meeting.
  4. Congratulations on completing your Longboat. I have enjoyed following your build log and have learned a lot that will help me on my build. I hope to see your Longboat at the Northeast Joint Clubs Conference and Show in New London CT in April. Thanks also for all of the fine photos of your model.
  5. Ken, very nice job. I cannot wait to see this in person in April.
  6. Joe, I get my blades directly from Thurston. They are great to deal with. http://www.thurstonmfg.com/jewelers-slotting-saws.html
  7. Completed lining off the starboard side of my Longboat. I had trouble with the tape sticking to the frames, but found some 1/16" Art Tape from Hobby Lobby that has worked out very well. I took a damp rag and wiped off the surfaces that I wanted the tape to stick to. The slightest amount of dust will cause the tape to not adhere properly. Now to start the port side and then on to the planking.
  8. Looks like a good start. It will be nice to see another addition to the Cheerful fleet. I look forward to following this build log.
  9. You did a good job on your bolsters. I hope mine turn out as nice as yours.
  10. Here is a print friendly version of the Byrnes Saw Tips. I have enjoyed my Byrnes saw and have used it more than what I thought I would have. It is a high quality and precision miniature power tool. Byrnes Saw Opeation Tips.pdf
  11. That is good news. I was afraid that I had messed up the transom. It is great that you designed this kit so that small mistakes by the builder can be corrected leaving no evidence of the mistake.
  12. Thanks Rusty. I will definitely remove the tape after I finish fairing the frames and before I start the planking. When fairing the stern portion of the frames, I accidentally hit the "ears" of the transom with my sandpaper. This took off a little wood on the "ear" of the transom where it should not be faired. This did not cause much damage, but repeated hits with sandpaper would round off the the transom edge. To prevent this from happening again, I placed a piece of painters tape over the "ears" on the transom to protect it from accidental fairing.
  13. Thanks Chuck and Michael for your comments and also for the "Likes". Chuck, the tape really made a difference as it strengthened the frames. The camera makes it look as if it is overlapping the frames in some places. I trimmed the tape so that this would not happen. But, I did not allow for the angle of the frame edge being changed when the frame was faired and a small portion of the tape has come in contact with the sanding stick in some places with the sanding of the frames. This has not caused any problems with the fairing process. I will be removing the tape when I begin the planking process so as not to chance the tape being glued to the frame.
  14. Thanks everyone for the "Likes". In preparing the frames for gluing the keel to them, I took care to make sure that they were properly aligned. The design of the kit gives you a little "wiggle" room for adjusting the frames from side to side. With the keel dry fitted to the frames, I used a 1/32" thick piece of flexible planking material as a batten and kept adjusting the frames from side to side until all the frame edges touched the batten. I taped some of the frames to the build board using painters tape so that they would not move when I removed the dry fitted keel. I also marked the frame where the edge of the keel was so that I would have a reference point to place my glue. When it came time to glue the keel to the frames, I followed the kit instructions and placed a generous dab of glue on the frame pieces. After aligning the keel, I used a damp paint brush to remove any excess glue. I glued the stern half of the frames to the keel and let them set up for 24 hours and then glued the forward half of frames to the keel. Here are photos of my progress to date: Next step is to "gently " fair the frames and to line off the hull. I hope everyone has a safe and Happy New Year!

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