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Help to assemble AMATI chain plate 4090/05


Go to solution Solved by Johnny Mike,

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Posted

I am trying to figure out how to assemble the Amati chainplate assembly #4090/05.

I am stumped can any one help?

I can not figure out how to get the dead eye into the loop and then into the mount.

Posted (edited)

I bought the Amati 4090/07 to replace the fiddly chainplate assembly included in the Sergal SOS kit. I hoped it would be easier to assemble. I assumed wrong.

I have concluded that is impossible to get the dead eye into the brass loop. The brass loop is simply too small/string too short for the dead eye to fit. 

I resumed using the assembly included with the kit. 

 

 

Edited by BlackDog
Posted

This is my problem. How do you put this together?

 

Some where in the past I got the assembled unit. I cant rember where.

 

Now when I order the part I get the pieces.

Even the picture on the web site I ordered from shows the assembled piece.

20251226_125008.thumb.jpg.de40af145633a4d94bbb3c37a4355210.jpg

Posted (edited)

I would first put a deadeye into the loop and then, with a pair of fine long nose pliers try to wiggle the unit into the holes of the chainplate, one end at a time. Trim the ends flush afterwards.

Edited by Dziadeczek
Posted

Thanks guys.

I can tell you I tried everything, everwich way and it cant be done.

At this point I am convinced it was to be sold as an assembly and something happened.

The only way was to spread both ears of the mount and force them back together but with this already formed 

from half hard brass they just break. 

I give up and went to making chainplates them myself.

Posted (edited)

    If you haven't tried annealing, then you haven't "tried everything".  Annealing the brass 'ears' should work,  just as marksmen in the North-South Skirmish Assn. (N-SSA ... I was a member for 30 years) firing repro brass cases for Henry Rifles or Spencer and Burnside Carbines experience work hardening around the rim (or formed shoulder of the Henry) cartridge after crimping and subsequent firing on a target range.

  Each case was stood-up in a pan of water (dimmed lights in the shop), then the case mouth was heated with a propane torch just until the slightest glow was seen from the metal, then the case was tipped into the water to quench.  Actually the quenching was not needed to anneal, since mere heating to 750 degrees F accomplishes that, but temperature is hard to judge - so the metal will just start to glow orangey around 800 - 850 degrees degrees F.  Quenching prevents overheating the brass, which can change the composition of the alloy by burning off some of the zinc.

  You can easily anneal the ear end of the chainplate with a candle flame ...  Hold the long end of the chainplate with needle nosed pliers, hold the ear end in the yellow of the candle flame (near the end of the flame) until you see the brass start to glow (dimmed lights makes observation easier). Then immediately quench the hot end of the chainplate in water, dipping the entire piece into, say, a glass of water while still holding with the pliers. 

  The 'Bob's your Uncle', you should be able to bend the ears open enough to insert the wire ends of the enclosed deadeye into the holes in the ears - then bend them back and they should not break.  Only bend once, as this process work-hardens the brass.

Edited by Snug Harbor Johnny

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100;  Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100;  Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

  • Solution
Posted

I did try anneling. But now it is still so tight a fit it not realistic to assemble without building a fixture for assembly.

I just went with another design. Building myself and soldering the assembly

Posted
18 hours ago, Johnny Mike said:

Thanks guys.

I can tell you I tried everything, everwich way and it cant be done.

At this point I am convinced it was to be sold as an assembly and something happened.

The only way was to spread both ears of the mount and force them back together but with this already formed 

from half hard brass they just break. 

I give up and went to making chainplates them myself.

 

 

 

I have the same experience.

However, it can be done (just did it). Not by using the copper string provided for in the assembly; it is too short, but by using a bit of copper string cut to proper length. Quite fiddly - I used abot ten minutes and everything involved deforms quite easy while handling it. 

From left to right: 1) Original assembly without deadeye You cant fit the deadeye in the loop. 2) Deadeye with copper string provided in the assembly. 3) Assembled unit using a longer string and cut to size. 

 

BMGP1595.jpg

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