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  1. Just don't forget to lengthen the bowsprit with this extra dimension (see arrows).
  2. Here is an email address I got earlier today from a friend in Canada for Wendy in Australia, (he uses her sewing skills for his models and swears by her). shipwheel@bigpond.com He also took the trouble to inform her that you would be inquiring about the sail set for your model. So, I think she will be expecting your email soon and you both can discuss the particulars. Regards, Thomas
  3. In the good old days of the Seaway's Ships in Scale forum, there was a woman called Wendy from Australia, who used to take custom orders for making sails for models. I don't know her personally and never ordered anything from her, but supposedly her sails were excellent. If you are interested, I could get you in touch with someone who got her sails, and find out if she is still active. Thomas
  4. Thank you all for your input. After some thinking, I decided to go with a silver-enriched solder wire I obtained long time ago from Home Depot. I don't think it is called Stay Brite, but I forgot its exact name. I remember that it can be applied either with a soldering gun or with a torch and it is significantly stronger than regular 50-50 or 60-40 wire. I have a tiny soldering pen that gives me a lot more control than a mini torch, so I've been able to resolder those broken joints with this wire and give it a bit thicker joint (previously I was filing off extra thickness of solder to mak
  5. Hi, I need help with the silver soldering of small brass parts. I am trying to make brass reinforcing rings for the masts of my 74 gun ship model. I prepared (cut) thin strips from a brass sheet and soon after I solder both ends together to close a ring, frequently they spontaneously break apart. I need a stronger medium. I tried to silver solder them, but every time I try to heat them, the flame from my torch immediately blows the tiny sliver of silver away from the place i put it, even before it gets melted. How do I keep it there?
  6. As far as I understand, some kits are designed for double planking, especially intended for beginners, with the idea to learn how to plank on the first layer and do the second layer properly. But, if you do the first layer properly (observing spiling and shaping of your planks) it will look beautifully, so there will be no purpose for the second layer to cover up mistakes. If however, you don't properly spill and shape the first layer, you won't learn the process and repeat it with the second layer also. What's the point? If you read and understand the process, you should be able to do i
  7. You might obtain ebony in exotic hardwoods outlets, if you are lucky. It is harder and harder to locate it though. Also, it is stinky expensive! I once managed to find it in my local exotic hardware lumber yard (this place doesn't exist anymore), but luckily I then snatched two quite large boards of it. I still have most of it and use it very carefully and sparingly. It is a very dense and heavy wood. Ebony also is difficult to work with, it is very stiff, springly and hard to bend. Some people are allergic to its dust, so wear a face mask while cutting it and sanding it. Other than
  8. I place a drop of PVA white glue, or Titebond glue on top of my index finger and run the edge of a plank along it, making sure it gets just barely enough glue on its entire length. Any excess can be wiped off, if necessary, by repeating the above. If some small amount of glue still oozes out from the joint, I wipe it off with a wet rug. Generally it is enough to be able later on to apply a layer of oil or stain. If however there are some small spots where oil/stain did not penetrate, I take an edge of a small chisel or a one sided (industrial) razor blade and carefully scrape off this ar
  9. Splendid! Why not glueing them to the shrouds with, say, a drop of white glue to keep them there, and then wrapping them around the shrouds with a thread?
  10. I just received a large spool of Irish Barbour's linen thread (expensive!), from England: https://www.etsy.com/listing/748849724/large-spool-of-353-cord-barbours-irish?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-craft_supplies_and_tools-fabric_and_notions-notions-thread&utm_custom1=9d7531cf-7f2a-412d-b984-d1b7bf71b7f2&utm_content=go_1843970764_76535548264_346429178309_pla-295462060547_c__748849724&utm_custom2=1843970764&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqInt_8GP6wIVEdbACh3wIABpEAkYAiABEgLLFfD_BwE My order for this item was plac
  11. Don't know much about whaling but I found this one online. Perhaps it will be helpful for your project. I would be careful with bleaching the rope - if it is made from natural fibres, you might damage it and make it brittle. Test it on a short piece before. As for the color, I would think that the brand new rope would be light colored, anything older would be progressively darker...
  12. Here is a handful more pics from this place (HMS Royal George and HMS Royal Katherine by Mr. Marple) (It is difficult to photograph through glass panes, even with a polarising filter!)
  13. As far as I know. They used beef bones from their food rations. Except, of course, for the rigging. I was told, that some of those prisoners used their own long hair and twisted it into ropes for their models. Hard to believe...
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