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  1. After I twist my ropes on a ropewalk, I always stretch them a bit in my hands. The ropes are like rubber bands, so they will slightly stretch and the individual strands at the same time will "lock in". Any ugly "fuzziness" I burn away over a flame. Then I pull them through a chunk of bees wax two to three times and again pull them tightly between my fingers to remove excess wax. The heat generated will also melt the wax which will sink in. I make my ropes mostly from cotton crocheting fibres, not from polyester, which is even more 'rubbery'. On my Corel's "Victory" (bashed) the shrouds retained initial tightness after more than 10 years.
  2. If you can locate a medical needle of appropriate (to your scale) thickness or other steel tubing, cut off its end and sharpen the edge. Press and twist it into the decking to obtain small circles - this will give you great looking simulations of your treenails.
  3. I didn't realize that his is double planked. If so, I still would order more planks, remove those upper ones, and repeat upper planking, making sure that they come into the rabbet in the stem as well as the sternpost. Perhaps they were originally too short? Maybe, as ASAT suggested, he should cut those upper ones in the middle of the hull and replace those shorter pieces with new ones, saving on work and material, but I would stagger the butts to look more naturally. Before attaching a garboard strake, I would detach a false keel from the keel and file off edges on both surfaces, thus creating a, sort off, groove after glueing them together. This would became a rabbet, where the planks' edges would go. By the way, he said that his planks were pre-cut, but he didn't mention that they were also pre-spiled. If so, I still wouldnt' trust the kit and spile them myself. My three pennies...
  4. I am afraid he is not only talking about this hole marked in my pic as "A", but he didn't properly do spiling of his planks and did not run the lowest plank (garboard) all the way to the bearding line - as "B". Also, his planks don't abutt into the bow section of the keel (into the rabbet) but end before it. Kalakukko, do yourself a favor and read a couple of tutorials here on planking the hull by David Antscherl and Chuck Passaro and, after obtaining extra replacement planks from Korabel, remove wrong planks and do the spiling (determining the correct run) of your planks,- replace them, and everything should be OK.
  5. Put a few drops of cutting fluid onto the teeth of your blade and on the brass sheet before cutting - it makes the cutting easier, quicker and cleaner.
  6. I can cut hardwood on my PREAC saw as thin as a sheet of paper!
  7. This is a setup I built many years ago, following an article in an old magazine "Family Handyman" . This workbench is about 8 feet long, permanently screwed on into the wall so it hungs above the floor and therefore doesn't have any legs, so it is easier to sweep the dirt underneath it. It has its own light sources (fluorescent tubes), a dust extraction system for your power tools and three (originally four - in the article) drawers for your loose stuff/tools and/or materials. I built only three sections (limited space), although the article shows you how to build a four sections' unit. Everything is obtainable in Home Depot or similar home centers. But, in order to build it, you must have at least basic hand/power tools, eg. full size table saw/circular saw, power drill, hammer, and so on. If you want the entire article with plans, I could find it in my junk, scan the pages and send them to you. Happy New Year! Thomas
  8. If it is lead you are using, how do you prevent lead corrosion on your gun barrels later on? Coat your guns with something to prevent air from attacking lead? Thanks for a very informative video! Thomas
  9. Aha, I understand. Are you building your exquisite model together with him? On the nameplate I see your name in the left lower corner, and in the right lower corner his, "Kpt. KL" Or is he just a historical/know how expert for you? Regards, Thomas
  10. Are you sure it is a seat-of-ease? It might be it, or it might be something else... Check out this thread: (I am trying to imagine these poor souls trying to get inside that barrel in order to ease themselves, while having the "urge".... Where was the entrance to this structure? A door through the bulwark? From the top of this barrel?). Also, Druxey had a point - this thing hungs directly above a gunport, which would make the crew of this gun "difficult" to operate it during the "use" of this facility, I think...
  11. Recently I was looking for wooden belaying pins 10 mm long, but all of them were ugly and fat, not proportioned well at all. Someone had 11 mm brass ones looking OK, but it turned out they were out of stock at the moment. So, I reluctantly decided to make my own. I used bamboo skewers of appropriate thickness (from supermarkets) and prepared myself a brass former, following advice of Ed Tosti here: He is making here sprockets for his wheel, but the principle is the same. First make a former from metal (I used a short piece of brass rod, which I drilled through on a lathe. Then I filed one side to an appropriate profile for my pins. Finally I inserted skewer into the hole and using only mini files, shaped the pin to an appropriate look. This method allows for fairly quick fabrication of belaying pins and for repetition of identical shapes, which is important.
  12. Exquisite build of an exquisite model! Congratulations! Just wanted to make sure your plate reads "CEGIELSKI" and not "CEGIEISKI", as below. (It is a well known Polish locomotive manufacturer, even today.)
  13. I'd rather paint the moulding strip first, off the model, and then carefully glue it to the model - this way the paint job is perfectly straight without any blobs and unevenness.
  14. The book (vol.3) is ALREADY available. I ordered it a few days ago and it is on the way, I should receive it in a couple of days...

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