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Dziadeczek

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  1. It should be: Hi, I finished 13th row of planking. (government= rząd, który rządzi w danym kraju, row=rząd, np. drzew w lesie, żołnierzy w szeregu, itp...)
  2. I have their treenail cutters (I see, they are no longer available - pity!) and also their thickness sander. Both gadgets are still fully functional after all these years. Very good quality products!
  3. From now defunct Ship in Scale forum.
  4. Does it allow for raising and lowering, as well as tilting the blade (for angled cuts) - like the bigger Proxxon?
  5. Hi Pond, A few years ago I too started on the Rattlesnake kit from Model Shipways (due to its size I wouldn't recommend it for beginners - parts are SMALL and FRAGILE and easily break during construction). To this day I still didn' manage to finish it - a few sails remain to be hunged. As you'll see in the attached photos, I also slightly bashed the kit, using my own wood (mostly cherry), etc... As you'll find out, there are many ways to succesfully plank the hull, every modeler has his favourite one. In the kit you have excellent plans and step-by-step instructions by Ben Lankford - stick to them and you should be fine. Most important thing is to properly spill (shape) the planks before mounting them. Once you've attached your wales according to the plans, divide each bulkwark with battens into a few symmetrical 'belts' - eliptoid areas from bow to stern and gradually fill them up with spilled planks. Checking symmetry on both sides is crucial. Start your planking from up (wale) towards down (keel) or opposite, whichever way you prefer. Shape (spill) a PAIR of planks (each plank for one side of your bullwark), wet them for a few minutes in lukewarm water and hot shape them with your plank bending iron, first outside of your model, frequently checking the curvature against the skeleton of your hull. I think that your steaming box is, in your case, an overkill (they were used in full size practices, but your planks are scaled down, so much smaller and thinner than the full size boards, that it s quite easy to shape them when they are just wet. The soldering (plank bending ) iron will dry them almost perfectly during the bending process, and if you glue them and pin them both to the bulkheads, one on each side, they won't warp your hull. Especially if you keep the hull in the mounting board. Also by doing so, you'll ensure that your planking is perfectly symmetrical on both sides. Repeat the above for each succesfull pair of planks, until you'll fill each belt. The way I shape the planks, is, I place a wet plank on a wooden surface (e.g. wooden painting stick from Home Depot, or such), keep it by its end with one hand. With the second hand I hold my hot iron (not too hot or you'll burn your plank) and gently place its head on the surface of the plank, rubbing it to and fro. At the same time, with the first hand I gradually raise one end of my plank, giving it a desired curvature and frequently check it against the hull. Giving it some desired twist and edge-bending is also possible. When the curvature of my plank is perfectly laying (or almost perfectly) on the bulkheads, I attach it to the hull with glue and a few pins (placed every other bulkhead or so), gently tapping ordinary seamstress' pins with a tiny hammer, into the plank and the bulkhead, untill it grabs. You don't want to hammer in the entire pin - you might damage, split the plank and/or bulkhead. Perhaps three or four gentle taps will suffice... Once the entire elliptical belt is filled, remove the batten and procede to the next belt. And so on... After the entire hull is planked, I sand it with a medium grade sandpaper and/or scrape it with a sharp edge of a broken glass or sharp edge of a metal scraper - this will remove 'fuzziness' on the wooden surface left after sanding it. Good luck! Thomas PS: I developed this technique many years ago, closely following advice from a German modeler, Gebhard Kammerlander. Some time ago there was a detailed article on this topic in the, now defunct, magazine "Ships in Scale". But to this day, as far as I know, there is also a video instruction by Gebhard himself on You Tube, on how he does it. Worth checking...
  6. Sorry to intrude into your conversation, but the server (spool traveler - as you called it) isn't supposed to be supported in any way by this steel rod below. At least in my instance, mine hungs freely under the rope being served, suspended only by the serving thread. The gravity alone provides enough torsion and tension for serving. If the server tries to rotate around the rope, it means that there is too much tension on the thread, and you have to very slightly loosen up the screw on the bobbin so that it moves a bit easier. Perhaps the pics from Johann were taken from up and showed erroneously in perspective that the bobbin somewhat rests on the rod? Or maybe his does rest on the rod? I would like however to know, how he did the worming on that rope.
  7. Holy cow, Doris! You are blinding fast, while maintaining your excellent quality standards! Fantastic!!!
  8. I once tried to do it by hand, leading the thread into the 'grooves' of a rope stretched on a serving machine (with mixed results). Pain in the ... Maybe someone has a more mechanical and better method?
  9. You have to explore the possibilities that are offered by people who are into archery. Namely, they use the so called "bow string server" which travels along the served line while serving it at the same time. Please google "bow string server" and select "images" and you'll see many potential solutions. They typically serve the line for a bow, which is a bit thicker then most of your miniature ropes for shipmodeling, so, if you want to obtain a commercially available gadget, you have to choose a possibly smaller one typically available for archery. Or, make one by yourself from parts which are typically available around your house/workshop. The solutions are endless... The beauty of such a server is that it requires no, or very little attention, while serving your lines. It hungs suspended from your rope and its weight and tension controlled by the screw (next to a spool with thread), controls how tight is your serving. (Initial setup is therefore required) . Once you start your serving process, you can literally make yourself a cup of coffee and drink it while observing the action of serving (provided that your serving machine is mechanically powered (electric DC motor) and you are serving a long enough piece of a rope). The server, while serving your rope, WILL AUTOMATICALLY MOVE ALONG THE ROPE without your intervention whatsoever. You can even install a device that will shut off the power to the motor when the serving reaches the end of the rope, so that you don't have to watch the process. Many years ago I made a simple device for serving - see attachments. It works perfectly for most of my ropes. Bigger (thicker) ropes will require a bigger server, naturally.
  10. What adhesive do you use to joint parts together? I imagine, you first bake the sheet with all parts on it, and then you put them together into a chair... With what glue? A CA adhesive? Epoxy...?
  11. Hi Doris, If I may ask you another question. How did you make your figurehead from the modeling clay? I understand completely the theory behind these flat reliefs, which you executed so perfectly (rolling thin slivers on the wax paper and shaping them with a small brush + tweezers). But when it comes to a 3D, free standing pieces, obviously you cannot place them on a paper. Did you fashion a skeleton for your horse-mounted king from a wire - an armature, before you started to build up his body from clay? Can you bake the initial body and subsequently add to it more fine details (like arms, details of clothing and armaments) and then you bake the whole thing again, or you have to make the entire figure at once and bake it in the oven? Thanks in advance for your answer.
  12. Un-freaking-believable!!! Hats off!!! Could you tell us what book is in the pics, placed in front of your model?
  13. I use these blades for my Exacto knife, after predrilling holes in the corners of the gunports. It works. https://www.amazon.com/Zona-39-925-Replacement-Blades-5-Pack/dp/B000MDLFNQ/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000MDLFNQ&pd_rd_r=d4c28335-f423-11e8-a9a4-91dd53fb1641&pd_rd_w=VKgNQ&pd_rd_wg=U6dmQ&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=DQ15ED6JRRFJZ9NNNZ6B&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=DQ15ED6JRRFJZ9NNNZ6B

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