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  1. Hi Mike, Generally, the Proxxon tools are of good quality, so I assume that this one is also good, if the price is good too. I don't own one, but for many years I have and used a 2-speed Delta and have been quite satisfied with it. I use it quite often. It is not nearly as good as the Hegner or the Sacura saws, but pricewise it was v. competitive too. Don't forget to get yourself some good blades for it, like Olsson blades sold by Rockler in Pasadena, for example. Good luck with your Sovereign. It is an awesome model! Did you see the one by Ed Marple in the Maritime museum in Oxnard? Regards, Thomas PS: I noticed that you are out in Santa Monica. I live in Glendale. Currently scratchbuilding the 74 gun ship by J. Boudriot in 1:48. A beast!
  2. Hi Karl, I did not post here any reports and pics of my model build. Alltogether I lagged behind with taking photos of the progress of my work, rather concentrating on the build itself (which is going exceedingly slowly). Here you can find some older pictures: http://www.koga.net.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=523&t=46424 It is a Polish ship modeling forum, but the pictures are in English! :-) Be sure to see all 4 pages. There has been some progress since then (photoetched elements and other). One day I will have to snap a couple of new pics and post them. Thanks for asking. Regards, Thomas
  3. You can stitch large (upwards of 10 or more pics) distant panoramas (landscapes) quite easily, just snap individual pics (vertically) overlapping them about 1/3 and stitch them together on one of the panorama programs, like Hugin (free), Photoshop or PTGUi (purchase license), but taking panoramas of close up objects (macrophotography) involves the so called, parallax error, which makes stitching difficult or even impossible. To remedy this, you have to use a special panorama arm (head) that eliminates this error, like this one: http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/nn3/nn3_review.html or similar It all involves determining the so called nodal point of your lens, which is sort of a complex concept, so I won't even try here to explain it. Such panorama arms (heads) are quite expensive, unless you want to build one by yourself (which drastically lowers the cost, total ~ 20-30 US dollars). Some time ago I built one from hardwood scraps + purchased a few extra inexpensive parts, following a short tutorial online, and determined my nodal points for my Nikon D200. I still use it occasionally. It works quite well. PS: Your model is spectacular and mind boggling! I am building the same one, but in 1:48 scale. Still, it is a monster!
  4. Holy cow! You are practically in Hamburg! 15 nanometres? :-)
  5. I have some steel shot balls left from my previous project (2,10; 2,54 and 3,05 mm) I could send them to you, if you wanted them. How many do you need? ( I purchased those three boxes of steel shot cartridges and opened them up and dissasembled, so it turned out to be a lifetime supply of shot for me :-) ) Thomas
  6. I have a Sherline lathe (longer bed) and a Sherline mill - for decades already and they are still going strong, like new. Recently I had to replace a toggle switch on my lathe, because the old one got contaminated with some fine dust, either wood or brass and stopped working. I also installed a rubber seal cap around the new switch - to prevent it from clogging again. Otherwise I have no problems and no regrets owning them. Good machines. Good selection of parts and accessories, too.
  7. Perhaps, while you pre bend your wet planks to fit the hull, you should also try to edge bend them a bit with your hot iron. Attach (glue) them only if they lay perfectly on the hull - that way you will avoid these gaps. Also, earlier on, you were right with those Polish markings: the letter L in Polish means strona "Lewa" (left) and the letter P means Prawa (right) side of whatever. I still remember my Polish, after leaving the country 40 years ago (!). So, if you have any problems with understanding your instructions, ask me and I'll try to translate this fragment for you, OK?
  8. John, From my own experience, cheap plastic proportional dividers with thick, short and dull legs aren't good enough for this task. The legs should be thin and pointy, adjustable like from a good quality compass. Before you use them, calibrate them carefully, making sure that the distance between the shorter legs is an exact fraction (1/2 or 1/3, or so...) of the distance between the longer legs, adjusting the lenght of the legs. The ratio should be set up before with the central screw. Purchasing good dividers is an investment for a long time, so if you intend to build just this one model, use a paper strip technique instead. Cheaper! The way I use them is, I first set the ratio to the number, corresponding with the number of planks in a given 'belt', say 5 and then take measurements between the battens (or marks on the bulkheads) with the pair of the longer legs. Then I switch the legs, place one shorter leg directly against the edge of the plank and with the other leg I delicately mark the plank, pushing it into the plank ever so gently that it is just barely visible. This is the width of your plank at the given bulkhead. I repeat the same for all bulkheads. In the end I obtain a series of micro holes in the plank, which I subsequently connect with a sharp hard pencil using a metal curve (aluminium) the so called ship's curve. I fix the plank in my plank shaping jig and carefully shave its edge with a mini plane and sand it fine, until I no longer see the pencil line. I actually shave a pair (2) of planks held together in the jig, each one for each side of the hull (since they should theoretically be identical). This way I obtain two identical planks at the same time. Also, it is a good idea to profile your shaved edge not perpendicular to the surface of your plank, but at certain angle, so when you place this plank against the others, it will form a very tight fit, since the surface of the hull is not flat but rounded up. When i proceed with the second pair of planks, I change the ratio to one number smaller than the previous one, adjusting the center screw to 4, and so on. After I fill the entire "belt", I remove the lower batten and proceed with the lower "belt". And so on, until I have the entire bulwark planked. Do not try to plank completely the entire side first and then go to the other side - you run the danger of your hull getting warped beyond repair. Better to mount one plank on the first side and then the second one on the other side and continue that way. The 'skeleton' of your model should be placed securely in a planking "shipyard" during the entire process of planking, to avoid warpage. Check the pic attached below. The way to edge bend is shown on the video by mr. Kammerlander, I mentioned earlier. Take a piece of flat wood, like a piece of plywood and hammer there two small nails about 1 inch apart leaving them protruding up for about half an inch. Place the end of your pre weted plank flat on the plywood, in between these two nails and delicately try to edge bend it, at the same time rubbing it to and fro with your hot iron. Flip the plank on the other side and repeat the same. Do not burn the wood! The plank will quickly attain a new shape and become curved. This can be done to a certain degree, depending on the type of wood and dimensions of your plank (thickness), before the plank breaks. For tighter curves you have to preshape your plank like a crescent from a separate piece of wood - following the advice of David Antscherl or Chuck Passaro in their tutorials here. Good luck! :-) Thomas
  9. Hi David, With the exception of your garboard strake (which is almost straight) , the others can be slightly edge-bent by a hot iron to conform to the others and the general shape of the hull.
  10. Hi John, If I may continue for a bit... You write that this is your first model. Well..., I would advice that before you start planking, you should first prepare yourself for it. Get yourself a pair of good proportional dividers (those with long sharp legs, looking like pins). That will shorten and ease the process of spiling and also make it more accurate. If, for one reason or another, you decide not to use proportional dividers, you have to rely on a paper strip method, which is also good, but a bit more tricky and lenghty. It seems to me, that you have mastered the idea of subdividing the bulwarks into several "belts" by temporarily attaching thin battens and subsequently subdividing each "belt" into areas filled with your planks. Measurements have to be taken for each frame/bulkhead to determine the width of the plank there. Also, get yourself a suitable plank bending device that will work for you (some people use a curling iron, others a hot lightbulb, glass jar or a kettle, or a dedicated plank bending iron, I use a modified soldering iron with attached crescent shape head). Also, build yourself a plank holding device from scraps of wood and obtain a mini shaving plane. Place your plank in this holding vise and, after drawing on it the curve with a pencil, carefully shave and sand one edge to this shape. For me, one shaved edge is enough, if you want to shave the other, go for it. After the shaving of your plank, wet it in luke warm water for a few minutes and bend it to the shape of your hull, where the plank willl be laid down. Do it outside of the model, placing your plank on a straight wooden surface ( a piece of plywood, or such), and with one hand rubbing the plank back and forth with hot surface of your bending device, the other hand gradually lifting the plank to the desired shape. Repeat as many times as necessary. Some degree of edge bending will also be possible. If however your plank breaks while you edge bend it, you must fabricate it from a separate piece of wood, with this crescent shape bend designed into it. Look into David Antscherl and Chuck Passaro's tutorials for details how to do it. Also read this thread: Check the technique of Mr. Kammerlander (video there), especially relating to the edge bending. Once you get your plank bent, nicely matching the curvature of your hull, place it on it. It should lay there almost completely on the edges of your bulkheads, without forcing it there by the glue. Apply the glue to the places on the bulkheads where the plank will be touching them, and also along one edge of your plank and attach it in place. You may need a few pins or pushpins to keep your plank in place while the glue is drying (but don't push them through the plank but rather next to it to avoid unsightly holes afterwards), , or instead you may use a small drop of CA glue here and there to "grab" the plank quickly and keep it in place, while the yellow glue (titebond) is drying. And remember, the length of a plank should be from the bow to the stern. Avoid the situations that your planks end abruptly somewhere in the middle of the hull, with sharp point tucked under another plank laid above! Have fun!

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