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  1. This was my very first attempt at focus stacking, using my old Nikon d200, standard kit zoom lens 18-70, a tripod, no rails. Merging on Photoshop. I am quite satisfied with the result. What do you think, guys? Thomas
  2. I wouldn't worry too much about the filling pieces now. Make all hawse frames first and make sure they all fit and that their external surfaces are smooth (inner surfaces will later be smoothed). And only then try to make those fillers, carefully sanding down their thicknesses to fit to the available spaces in between the hawse frames. I too had a hard time making them for my "Frenchie" (of course, later on I bought the addendum brochure from Ancre with all profiles of the missing frames, including the hawse timbers, but it was already after I managed to shape them all by myself from the waterlines). Tough luck...
  3. Also you can plank your hull with full length planks and afterwards score each plank across with a sharp exacto blade to imitate the joints between individual planks. I think this way might be a bit easier rather than trying to shape each shorter plank individually and identically to the rest of the short ones.
  4. Could I please. trouble you for a close up photo of your figurehead? What is it made of? Regards, Thomas
  5. I think it might be a gouache (a little thicker, less watery watercolor, applied a bit more opaque). To make sure however, it is not a print, you might remove it (carefully!) from the frame and see if the paper has a slight indentation along the edges - if it does, that means that this indentation was caused by a graphic's press, and the artwork is/might be a print, like a lithography. But, in such instance, the artist would routinely write in pencil at the bottom margin the number of this particular issue, and the total number of the issues intended, as well as his/her name and the title of the artwork. Here we don't have any of this, at least I cannot see it. So, probably it is a painting (very well executed!), either a watercolor, or more probably a gouache.
  6. Hi Javajohn , Since I built this model a long time ago, I don't remember now how long it took me to carve the transom. A few hours, at most. (I am a painfully slow modeler, I once knew a Japanese modeler, who would build three very intricate models in the time it took me to build one!) Today I took a close up, macro pic of this transom. When I look at this pic, I think that it was rather a thin slice of boxwood I carved, instead of cherry - the color is more creamy/yellowish. The rest of the stern is cherry though. I remember I made for this task a few tiny carving gouges, two from old discarded Dremel tips ground to the desired shape, and two or three from medical needles with their tips ground properly. You cannot buy such small gouges for this work anywhere, as far as I know! Alltogether, this model is quite difficult and tricky to build, due to its small size. I remember they said that it was intended for an intermediate modeler, but I think that because of the size of tiny details and their delicate nature, it should be build by a more advanced modeler. One has to have a delicate touch and respect for the wood, plus very sharp tools... PS: I just first noticed this glue blob oozing from the underneath of the lower left end of the transom; the pic is much larger than the model, so it exaggerates details and imperfections... Happy modeling!
  7. Here are some more pics of this magnificent model. 😃 Photos of Vasa 1 : 10 scale model in the Vasa museum Stockholm (modelships.de)
  8. I don't know what size of these eyelets you need? In any case, I once found a plastic box of tiny eyelets (I think they were 1/8 in.) on Amazon for dirt cheap (their shafts were threaded though, and not smooth). But, if you have a pin vise, get a short length (about an inch) of wire, the thickness of which is the same as the size of your eye on the eyelets you need. Shape its end into something similar on the pic you attached above (but do not close the hook completely!). Take a similar length of the wire for your eyelets and bend it into "U". Clamp both ends in a vise and catch the "U" with your hook mounted in the pin vise. Twist the pin vise in your hands until the wire will clamp tightly around the hook. Cut off ends for desired lengths. Release the eyelet from the hook. If you want to have smooth shaft, cover the twists with a melted solder, otherwise left alone, they will act like a thread and pushed into a hole and CD glued, will sit there tightly.
  9. If you are referring to tiny wire rings, you can make them by wrapping a piece of wire around a shaft of a drill bit (of suitable thickness) fastened in a vise, to look like a spring. Than stretch this spring a bit and cut off individual rings. If you want to, you can solder the ends of each ring together with a tiny soldering iron. If you are referring to small thimbles, you can make them from a piece of small brass tubing, by cutting off short lengths on a small table saw (I have the PREAC) and than gently hammer each end out with a nail that has its end shaped (filed) like a funnel.
  10. Hi Erik, Where do you get your Woody Joe kits from? Ages ago I built a nice little model of a Japanese brigantine "Osyoru Maru" from the now defunct Japanese company IMAI (which was subsequently bought by Woody Joe). I remember, this was a nice little kit, good quality materials and pictorial instructions easily understood (I don't speak Japanese). Although, I remember, I replaced kit's wood with my own cherry, pear and maple... So, if Woody Joe makes equally good kits, you won't be disappointed with your Cutty Sark. Where exactly do you live in LA? I live in Glendale, in the San Fernando Valley, between Pasadena and Burbank. I wish we could meet next year in the planned (so far) Nautical Research Guild conference, provided this Covid19 paranoia finally goes away... I am keeping my fingers crossed! We could talk about shipmodeling until the proverbial cows come home, he he... 😄 What are you currently building? I am in the middle of the rigging on my Frenchie in 1: 48 (after mr. Boudriot's 4 volumes on the 74 gun ship). Painstaking task! Regards, Thomas
  11. Mati, Make yourself a few rigging tools, like those shown - to make this task easier. Otherwise, your model looks PERFECT! Congrats!!!
  12. Mati, Hung your coils onto the pins, like it is shown in this video.
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