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Dziadeczek

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  1. As far as I understand, some kits are designed for double planking, especially intended for beginners, with the idea to learn how to plank on the first layer and do the second layer properly. But, if you do the first layer properly (observing spiling and shaping of your planks) it will look beautifully, so there will be no purpose for the second layer to cover up mistakes. If however, you don't properly spill and shape the first layer, you won't learn the process and repeat it with the second layer also. What's the point? If you read and understand the process, you should be able to do i
  2. You might obtain ebony in exotic hardwoods outlets, if you are lucky. It is harder and harder to locate it though. Also, it is stinky expensive! I once managed to find it in my local exotic hardware lumber yard (this place doesn't exist anymore), but luckily I then snatched two quite large boards of it. I still have most of it and use it very carefully and sparingly. It is a very dense and heavy wood. Ebony also is difficult to work with, it is very stiff, springly and hard to bend. Some people are allergic to its dust, so wear a face mask while cutting it and sanding it. Other than
  3. I place a drop of PVA white glue, or Titebond glue on top of my index finger and run the edge of a plank along it, making sure it gets just barely enough glue on its entire length. Any excess can be wiped off, if necessary, by repeating the above. If some small amount of glue still oozes out from the joint, I wipe it off with a wet rug. Generally it is enough to be able later on to apply a layer of oil or stain. If however there are some small spots where oil/stain did not penetrate, I take an edge of a small chisel or a one sided (industrial) razor blade and carefully scrape off this ar
  4. Splendid! Why not glueing them to the shrouds with, say, a drop of white glue to keep them there, and then wrapping them around the shrouds with a thread?
  5. I just received a large spool of Irish Barbour's linen thread (expensive!), from England: https://www.etsy.com/listing/748849724/large-spool-of-353-cord-barbours-irish?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-craft_supplies_and_tools-fabric_and_notions-notions-thread&utm_custom1=9d7531cf-7f2a-412d-b984-d1b7bf71b7f2&utm_content=go_1843970764_76535548264_346429178309_pla-295462060547_c__748849724&utm_custom2=1843970764&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqInt_8GP6wIVEdbACh3wIABpEAkYAiABEgLLFfD_BwE My order for this item was plac
  6. Don't know much about whaling but I found this one online. Perhaps it will be helpful for your project. I would be careful with bleaching the rope - if it is made from natural fibres, you might damage it and make it brittle. Test it on a short piece before. As for the color, I would think that the brand new rope would be light colored, anything older would be progressively darker...
  7. Here is a handful more pics from this place (HMS Royal George and HMS Royal Katherine by Mr. Marple) (It is difficult to photograph through glass panes, even with a polarising filter!)
  8. As far as I know. They used beef bones from their food rations. Except, of course, for the rigging. I was told, that some of those prisoners used their own long hair and twisted it into ropes for their models. Hard to believe...
  9. Sorry for this omission - I corrected it plus added some more pics from one of my earlier visits... Regards, Thomas
  10. I uploaded a handful of pics from that museum, I took during my last visit there in May 2019. They are here:
  11. Over a period of ~ 25 years, I visited this museum probably about a dozen of times, or so. And each time I took a handful of photographs. So, today I have quite a collection of pics from there. It is not nearly as big as, let's say, The US Navy Museum in Annapolis, but It is a very interesting little maritime museum, with an exceptionally friendly staff, mostly of volunteers, passionate individuals, who fondly greet every visitor and are willing to help him/her. This is the museum, the next NRG conference will be held next year. Their collection of ship models includes, among th
  12. Very handsome looking rope! When staining a rope made on a ropewalk, which way is better, first stain the thread and than twist a rope from it, or stain a twisted rope after making it? Also, what stain/colour brand do you recommend for this purpose? I recently located and ordered a big spool of old antique Irish linen #35 thread by Barbour and currently am awaiting its arrival. I want to try making a rope from this (I was told) superior matherial, but unfortunately it only comes in white. Previously I used to use factory coloured cotton from DMC for my ropes - black and ECRU (an
  13. I just thoroughly clean the brass/copper with fine steel wool to the bare metal and dip it in acetone trying not to touch it with my fingers. Afterwards I dip it in Birchwood Casey Brass Black for a few minutes. I noticed that if I keep it there for too long, the efect is undesireable, blotchy and uneven. I then wipe it with a cotton rug and dip in water.
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