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Posted

Thanks PopJack. I'd like to see the photos. I really don't like they way they look right now. Some look ok, and other look too big. But I don't want to try shaping them anymore since they will just break off.

Brian Parsons

 

Current Build: Rattlesnake

 

Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham

Posted

Thanks for the pics Popjack. Your Bluenose looks great! I believe I'll do the same, if not the stanchions will always bug me to look at. I think my mistake was shaping the stanchions before installing the bulkheads. Then once the bulkheads were on, I had to fair the frame, and then shape the stanchions more. My next build I think I'll do the stanchion shaping after the fairing.

Brian Parsons

 

Current Build: Rattlesnake

 

Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham

Posted

Justin, 

I'm not sure they are going to replace any of it yet. But a few of the bulkheads were warped. I was able to get all but one straight. Frank at Model-Expo told me to send him a parts list of things that were defective. So, I did and I'm waiting to hear back from him tomorrow.

Brian Parsons

 

Current Build: Rattlesnake

 

Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham

Posted (edited)

Yeah, It's not really bad so if they don't replace them it's not a show stopper. But I really noticed it when the plank sheer went on. And if they do, I'll get a second shot at the stanchions  :P

Edited by Brian Parsons

Brian Parsons

 

Current Build: Rattlesnake

 

Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham

Posted

Model Shipways is known for replacing parts easily- even if they were fine and you just broke them.  Now, they are not notorious for good communication.  I sent them the part number I had messed up and didn't hear anything until about a week later when the parts landed in my mailbox.  If you sent them a part number I would fully expect that you will get a replacement, no questions asked.

Posted

After breaking several on the bulkhead extensions, I cut them all off. I then remade them, re-glued them using CA. This produces a "weld" that won't break off. As I set them in place, I followed the outboard line of the deck, facing them so no sanding would be necessary to make the outboard side ready for the bullworks planking. I am going to start a build log here as soon as I can find out how to resize the pictures to make them smaller.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Brian,

 

Just found your log this evening (late to the party :D), and I have two suggestions that might help on future modeling projects:

1) if a bulkhead is warped (as you noted), it is easy to soak it (avoid ammonia!) and dry it overnight on an absolutely flat surface with weight on top or clamps applied to a strong backing board. The "absolutely flat" applies to either weighting or clamping, but the bulkheads really do need to be flat, and

2) the reason for two thinner layers of the bulkhead former rather than one thicker layer is strength. Two pieces glued together (again, absolutely flat) will be stronger than the equivalent thickness single piece. As a bonus, with the two halves of the former glued together, you have a perfect (if it's flat) centerline for attaching bulkheads and generally knowing that all components are where they should be. Hope this helps, and I'm glad to see another Benjamin W. Latham build. I will be following with interest.

 

Bill

My library will never be complete, and my fleet will always be growing

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