NMBROOK

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for the likes much appreciated.
 
Peter No I will not rig the Viking ship - well the four ropes anyway. Intensions are to have a partially open outer hull, missing deck plank coverings, adding as much added details as possible with square nail cleats in as many locations that I can copy from photos from the Viking museum. Also will add the ballasting rocks. Will scratch build all of the shields, including leather strips for the hands. Those are my mental build plans - to be determined how it all works out.
 
This kit is just tooooo large to also add its sail. Mast will be mounted but with a truncated hight. I'm presently putting together hundreds of available photos and drawings for this project.
 
===============================
 
Regarding Vasa - Contracted a local Wood shop that is building the base. The ship will mount on a base that will replicate a weather deck/including treenails - in larger scale (prob. five planks across its width - with cuts along the way that will be tree-nailed. Then four antiqued brass Pegasus. A plexiglass case will cover the project. (still need to work-out how to secure the keel to the base).
 

 
Kier Thanks so much for following along, your clicks, and of course your very kind comments.
Regarding the wood, apart from that supplied with the kit, I also would purchase the woods below from Blick Art Materials store. These were available from Midwestern. Sadly Midwestern no longer produces these so useful hardwoods. Now only in sheet size planks. Leaving an easy supply source for me no longer available.
 
https://midwestproducts.com/collections/hardwoods
 

Peter, Dave: Thanks appreciated. I have decided to do something about the "problem" that I have with those two blocks. I'll update when I have a plan.
 
Hubac: Very kind of you to follow along. Your work is indeed very impressive.
 
Here is the answer to your question.
MORE than you probably ever wanted to know 
 
VASA II will be the companion to the first book.
 
Here I copied and pasted from the Vasa specific forum Fred Hocker's information; for us Vasa builders it has been so frustrating waiting for this "bible" of the ship's rigging.
 

 
=================================================
Since everyone wants to know, I thought I would start a thread here for status updates on the Vasa rigging volume (Vasa II). PS: thread is from 2014
 
Part 1 – The archaeological evidence (Hocker)
The first part of the book presents and analyzes the find material from Vasa which is relevant to the understanding of how the ship was rigged and sailed. Chapters are organized by functional groups and vary in length, depending on the amount of find material. In each chapter, the relevant finds are described and illustrated in sufficient detail to allow useful conclusions to be drawn. Due to the number of finds and the fact that many of them were made on a production basis in specialized workshops, it is not necessary to present every object individually – readers are referred to the Vasa Museum’s online finds database for such information.

Chapter 2: Hull, including construction (Hocker)
This covers the fixed part of the rigging material which was part of the ship’s structure or fastened permanently to it:
1. Mast steps and partners
2. Chainwales
3. Bitts
4. Catheads and fish davit
5. Fixed sheaves in bulwarks, chesstree, etc.
6. Belaying devices (kevels, pinrails, etc.)
7. Ironwork

Chapter 3: Spars (Hocker, Nilsson)
Spars are the masts and yards, the wooden poles which carry the sails and allow them to be adjusted to meet the wind at an optimum angle and transfer the wind’s energy to the ship.
Chapter 4: Tops (Hocker)

Tops are the round platforms at the heads of the masts which provide working space for handling the rigging as well as sharpshooter positions in battle.

Chapter 5: Tackle (Howe, Lindblom, Hocker) 
Tackle is all of the movable wooden and metal parts of the rigging which connect the sails to the spars and the hull and allow them to be raised, lowered and controlled
1. Deadeyes (Lindblom)
2. Blocks (Howe)
3. Parrels (Hocker)
4. Euphroes (Hocker)
5. Fairleads (Hocker)
6. Other (Hocker)

Chapter 6: Rope (Magnus, Seeberg, Hocker)
The rope represents one of the groundbreaking studies in this volume. It is a common find on archaeological sites but rarely presented or studied in detail, so this chapter receives special emphasis and extra material on the materials and manufacturing processes.

Chapter 7: Sails (Bartoš, Bengtsson)
The sails are the most unusual find among all of the artefacts found with Vasa, and so this chapter is also given extra weight. 

Chapter 8: Capstans and windlass (Donohue)
Capstans are the human-powered machines mounted on the deck, which make it possible to lift the heavy weights of the anchors and sails.

Chapter 9: Steering (Hocker)
Vasa preserves the only known complete example of the whipstaff steering system, the most common form of steering gear on large ships from the late Middle Ages until about 1700. 

Chapter 10: Anchors (Hocker, Ward)
Anchors are essential for operation of the ship, and all parts of the anchoring system survive, including anchors, stocks, buoys and cables. 
Chapter 11: Navigation equipment (Hocker, Pipping)
The navigation equipment (compasses,timekeeping devices, sounding leads, etc.) is included in this volume as it is essential to sailing the ship.

Chapter 12: Reconstructing Vasa’s rig (Hocker, Pipping, Stolt)
This chapter synthesizes all of the archaeological evidence and comparative material in a reconstruction of the rigging of Vasa.

Part 2 – Rigging and Sailing Vasa (Pipping)

The second part takes the archaeological data as the departure point for a more wide-ranging contextual examination of the rigging and sailing of a large ship such as Vasa. Where the first part focused more on objects, this part focuses on process and meaning to explore the relevance of this find to larger questions of ergonomics and organisation, resource utilization, and operational implications.

Chapter 13: Ship performance and the sailing environment of the Baltic Sea
The geographic and climatological context is examined, as are the operational environment and the strategic limits within which the ship functioned. The essential parameters of the ship’s performance, such as speed, stability and weatherliness, are discussed in order to establish how well the ship was suited to its likely sailing routes and conditions. 

Chapter 14: Money, materials and men (Hocker)
This chapter concentrates on the administrative framework for outfitting Swedish naval vessels and the resource base from which the raw material were drawn, as well as the organization of the processes of producing rigging and assembling it into a functioning rig. It addresses the economic, environmental and social factors influencing the production of sails, rope and tackle. It makes use of the historical documents relating to the operation of the Stockholm navy yard, where the ship was rigged and fitted out, as well as the remains of the ship itself.

Chapter 15: Rigging the ship
The process of rigging, starting with a bare hull and progressing to a fully outfitted ship ready to sail, is followed in detail, with attention on the manpower requirements, the organizational challenges, and the technical limitations imposed by the particular materials and methods used.
Chapter 16: Sailing the ship

The chapter opens with an analysis of crew organization and Vasa’s one, brief sailing passage for what they say about the ship’s performance and the level of competence of the crew. The rest of the chapter follows a typical passage across the Baltic, based on the sequence of sailing orders recorded for the Swedish navy in the 17th century. It presents the different maneuvers which the ship was expected to perform and how they should have been carried out. The ergonomic requirements are analyzed, and the ship is placed in the context of what is known about Baltic sailing in the 17th century.

Chapter 17: Sailing a modern reconstruction (Morgens and Litcofsky)
Trials made using the modern reconstruction Kalmar Nyckel both confirmed certain hypotheses about the how this rig functioned and raised new questions about the nature of the evidence used to study 17th-century seamanship. The relevance of Kalmar Nyckel for the study of how Vasa sailed is studied, as are the basic limitations of experimental archaeology.

Chapter 18: Conclusions (Pipping and Hocker)
 
 

Hi John
Welcome to the forum from just up the road in Asenby near Thirsk.
 
Happy Building
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 Minor update. Started locating all of the bow area pin locations.
 Now starting with securing most of the shrouds, a few will wait until I get to the foremast. These lines connect to the foresails as well as to the lower forestay rope.
 Need to be sure that no tension bends occur later.
 

 
Also started doing rope wraps for the pins. One at a time will take way too long – need to get some kind of mass assembly of sorts. I’ll search out of logs for ideas in the rigging section.
 
Need to determine visual spool lengths as some shrouds connect to furled sails, others not. Also need to do some coiled wraps on the deck. For that purpose, I’ve ordered double sided clear tape as one of the members suggested in his log.
 

 
Rotating the boat back and forth on that small table of mine – the side of the gallery hit the recess of the inside the deep double-glazed window frame – Grrrr fix came out OK.
Moved the small table a bit away from the window ledge.
 

 
 
 
As always, thanks for your comments and likes.
 
Regards,
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Sorry for the late thank you’s.
 
zappto: very appreciated - thank you
 
John: Oh! what can I say? – Thank you so much – I’m very happy that you find this log, and build so much to your liking.
Your words have really touched me.  I have felt the same following other logs, and feel touched that you find this build in the same regard that I feel about others. Again your words, and the support that I have had from members here have indeed been inspiring.
 
kier: Thanks as well. As I had mentioned I was not comfortable with the idea of sails, these being my first effort. I learned from other logs and gave it a shot. Yes, they did come out nicely – very much to my surprise and relief. Thanks for your nice comments –much appreciated.
 
fmodajr: Frank as you know you were the catalyst for my embarking on adding sails having closely followed your Vasa build. (;-) thanks!
 
Peter: Thanks as well – much appreciated.
 
Regarding mizzen – yes the fore tip will be adjusted. In fact all yards and sails will be adjusted, set and made to look correct as I move from the bow to stern finishing up this build that has taken way too long.
 
Funny you never disappoint – I did, of course, add treenails to the weather deck. I followed one of Landströms drawings from The Royal Warship.  So it has gone with this build. Regarding the base, the nails will stay just of the extra detailed look.
 

 
So small start at bow pulling lines and now looking for pin locations.
 

 
This has brought up a dilemma for me. Kit and after-marked wood pins all seem to have too much girth.
I like the look of metal pins, but not going there. I may thin out all of the needed wood pins, and re-stain them. Could be overkill on my part. Still thinking Hmmm
 

 
Again Mates thanks SO much for your super kind words, the great like clicks and also for just dropping by.
 
Regards,
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Installed the mizzen yards and the last furled sail.
 Well, I do believe that all rigging has mostly been attached, except for a few upper mizzen sail lines, and other bits.
 =================
 An observation: I had initially a lot of doubts about adding sails. In retrospect happy that I took the leap. That said, the sails added (I’m estimating) probably 60% more required rigging than if I had just hung the yardarms without any sails at all.
 
Though as I had mentioned earlier – much appreciated the learning experience this provided.
 Now will start at the bowsprit attach, and pin locate all of the 100s of ropes leading through to the stern.
 
Steven Thanks so much for your kind compliment, remarks, AND for your link. Excellent indeed.
 
 Here are a few updated pics.
 
Cheers,

 
 

Peter,
 
Thanks, as always for your superlative level of knowledge regarding the Vasa and its mysteries. I very much appreciate your information.
I did find another photo of the Norske løve.
 
Made a couple of notations. Thanks for the thought, and the link. Very interesting that you “got one” over on Fred –
And indeed the rigging is very similar to Vasa.
===================================

 
Minor update; getting the mizzen sail and its two yards ready for mounting. Here are a few updated shots along with comments.
 
Yes, nearly done – thanks so much for your very nice compliment as well.
 
Cheers,

 

Peter, Ha ha No I won’t read that book it will become a “Nightmare from Stockholm Street” . My thoughts today anyway
 
Having spent 1000+ hours (I think) really trying, to the best of my skill set, accurately add details to this effort, the last thing I need is to be read about so many other things that are also “not right”, when VASA II becomes available.
 
That said IT WILL BE an invaluable source for future Vasa builders – assuming, of course, that they don’t purchase the Corel example as a base kit.
 
SMALL UPDATE:
 
Turns out that there was no choice. I had to remove the mizzen stay shroud because the mouse was choking the mast. As I was moving towards installing the mizzen yard, it became clear that there would be no room for the yard rope through that block.
 
So decided to also remove that huge triple block at the base of the lower main. And just fix all those issues.
 
I did serve the ropes – like the look, and all the other stays had been served. Accuracy or not – will no longer really, at this point, stress over this anymore; now onto attaching the mizzen yards, and the lower sail - I’m already seeing several rigging differences for the lower mizzen sail depending on where I look for help. Oh well…..
 
=======================
 
PS: Yes Peter the Oseberg Viking long boat is next. Just wood!  What a relief that will be -- ha ha….And still THANKS again for pointing out those block issues 
 
 
Cheers,
 
Here were the issues and the fixes;

 
 

Peter,
 
Thanks for the detailed info. much appreciated. I have extensively followed photos Clayton's build, and in fact noticed this as well. Then looking over several photos of the 1/10th ended up not sure either way. Looking at the 1/1, however it does seem to indicate a rather small opening into the upper gun deck for the ramshead pulley to attach to the knight. When I cut that part from the weather deck I was using Corel's info re: the size of the opening. And not being well informed seeing the foremast rams offset I just followed suit for the main.
 
Now regarding re-positioning that mizzen stay section that is attached to the lower part of the main -- well too late for any changes. I don't dare fiddle with pulling out those two small brass cleats in order to slightly offset the stay from center. I will repaint those poor looking knights ha ha
 
I very much appreciate your information and your super nice comment, as well - Thanks indeed
 
Cheers,

Hi Mates,
Apologies for the late thanks - for the likes, and super nice comments.
Denis, Martin – so overly kind indeed.
 
Frank, she’s actually my second build. There was a 40-year gap between the Santa Maria and this current Vasa. Again you are also so kind with your compliments.
         PS: Your HMAT Supply with its “years” of weathering and barnacled hull are way beyond my skill set. Love that build of yours!
 
Henry, Somehow I intuitively sorta new that that specific ramshead needed to be off center from the mast knowing that the mizzen mast stay would attach to the lower part of the main. It wasn’t knowledge – especially looking at the three plans that I was using. Nonetheless mounted the knight off center.
Thanks for your knowledgeable clarification –luck on my end.
 
Lower main yard is now attached. Added most needed lines as well; now onto the mizzen.
 
Cheers,

 

Hi Mates,
 
Martyn thanks for your always nice comments.
 
====================
 
Continuing now with ropes for the main lower sail, well the sheaves that I had fashioned back when – well ropes would not spool through the backsides. Tried drilling through on each side of the pulley – Nope –did not work.
 
Removed the sheaves (more taking parts off – for repairs ha ha).  As can be seen – again not thinking ahead – did not allow for enough spacing for the ropes to travel through and around the back sides before the installations.
 
Easy fix Drilled larger holes – now ok.–
 
BUT museum rigging plan sheet – totally missed that, before attaching the ratline shrouds.
 
Not venting just sharing –
 
Cheers,

Henry – Thanks so much for your suggestion! – indeed that technique was working, and would have been the perfect solution. Had it not been for  another miss-step on my part.
 
When I pulled the rams head block tight, to attach the second loop for the yard, it butted and interfered with the mizzenmast stay large block. The fixed slack that I had pre-determined was in error.
 
SO did need to try to remove the knightshead.
 
The flat back of tweezers allowed for a slight “snap” of sound tugging against the deck frame opening and the knights head itself. Then wiggling those pliers released that wood bit.
 
Its base and vertical “pin” along with that brass ring did not budge, but stayed in place attached to the upper gun deck. Reached in and cut the attached rope.
 
Now - looking at that knighsthead and how “poor” it is. I will just re-do that part entirely, also fashion better working “sheaves”. Proxxon will help.
 
=========================
 
Main lower yard is in place, working on that “functioning” parrels bit. Then after fixing “the problem” adjusting the ropes wont be an issue. The length the lower yard rope is “fixed” correctly so that ramshead will secure below the mizzen stay block.
 
Glad that it was not worse (:-) slight delay for the two mizzen yards. Its sail that will also be completely furled.
 
Patrick; Yes – noted - Google “AI” will hopefully never be used at the United Nations ha ha.
 
Again Mates thanks so much for your always kind help, likes, and visits.
 
Cheers,

Mates,
 
Thanks so much for the likes----
 
Patrick This is the root of the problem.
 
When I installed this triple block to its upper gun deck knighsthead and base along with spooling the ropes; I then secured and knotted the end of the rope to a cleat on the side (now below deck - in a super tight space).
So now that I need to attach the mainmast yard rope, I have no way of adjusting the "slack" that will be left over after looping the rope through the block, 
through the mast sheave, then attach this rope to the other side of the yard. Lack of rigging foresight - though I at least new to pre-spool the rope through the block (;-)
 
I will try to remove (with pliers) that bit below deck. Though I remember attaching a rod through the gun deck and adding glue to the base - wanted to be sure that it would not "pull away" when yard rope was attached. Once removed I can unknot the rope - grrrr 
 
In the meantime I decided to also add  the look of "working" parrels to the lower mainmast. The yard and mast are very visible since all shrouds are further aft. So will add blocks and rope to the center parrel line.
 
Regards,

 

Hi Mates,
Working on trying to install the lower main. She is causing me a lot of "lack of foresight" headaches. I'll post an update with remarks after she's properly mounted- may be of help to others. It will work out - but with extra work. 
 
My intensions are to have the mounted sail appear similarly to the 1/10th's mount. Well sort of anyway ha ha ---
 
As always thanks for dropping by.

 

Hi Mates,
 
 B.E., Capt. Steve – (;-) hadn’t thought of that – thanks for posting. and your very nice compliments (:-)
Martyn, Dave – always so kind – thanks
Denis – thanks for your interesting thoughts. Yes plastic is a bit diff. I remember my very first Revell (the Constitution) – indeed lines were just glued to the yards – and everywhere else as well.
 
Regarding those added blocks to the grating frame; based on the 1/10th. Note there were initially three blocks, which became four in later 1/10th photos. That white circle was an earlier for “me” reminder.
Now which ropes should I attach – who knows. As I continue connecting lines and ropes as well as using diff. rigging plans – some lines will end up where they end up (last pic will be very helpful)
 
Moving on - attached the upper mizzen sail. Realized my error with that mast cap. Much too low; the platform is also attached too close to the mast tip.
I will also need to run a wire through the lower sail hem – in order to add a more presentable curve when all lines are buttoned down. Forgot before mounting the sail.
 
=====================
 
Now onto the lower main; that one (which is cut to full size scale) will be folded and raised about three quarters of the way up to its yard in a partial furl. Many builders do this. It’s a great idea indeed.
 
As always thanks so much for following along, just looking in, adding likes – and of course your posts, and suggestions.
 
Cheers,

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks so much for your comments, and likes – all so nice of you.
 
Working from three sets of plans creates continued confusion (Corel, Billings, and Vasa Museum).
Anyway I was going to remove the upper main sail to give it bit of ironing. It was much too creased compared to the others. Glad that I had not buttoned down and glued the parrel ropes into place.
Then as I was reinstalling-  it struck me that It was missing blocks with which to attach ropes from the main top gallant sail to the upper yard. Then went back to another plan and saw what the problem was.
=========================
Then going back to the foremast trying to visualize pin and anchor locations for shrouds from the installed sails – tried to loop one rope through one of those four blocks that I had attached to the grating frame and grrrr- realized that I had not pre-enlarged the block holes.
 
So- trying to “remove” that grating frame with a “pop” ended up detaching that white railing and then the tool dropped and fell onto that canon carriage; easy fixes but part of the process apologies for just droning on with this post.
 
The lower main sail is next up.
 
Regards,

Hi Mates
 
Minor detail update.
 
Worked out a "plan" to make the fore lower appear as if the parrels are "functional"
When all buttoned up it will be like this.
 
PS: Frank thanks for sharing - happy not to be the Lone Ranger.
 
Cheers,

 
 

Hi Mates,
 Martyn, – so very nice of you thanks -- overwhelming !!
 
Patrick, Denis, Frank –thanks for your comments so appreciated as well.
 
And mates thanks for hitting the likes – so nice of you to click your thoughts as well
 
Continuing with the lower main. So it’s furled and almost ready for attaching to the mast.
 
I was looking at Anderson regarding the parrels and decided to challenge myself for this and the lower main mast, coming up next.
I will run a center parrel rope (only on one side) to simulate it as a working item. Will run the rope through that small block and run it to the weather deck.
 
Where it should be attached is not clear. I may also add another set of blocks to the end of the rope as noted on Anderson’s drawing. Fiddle blocks  - no - just a couple of single blocks and then a cleat at the deck next to the mast.
Probably overkill – but since all of the lower sails are furled this might be a nice bit of extra work that I will be happy about.
Anderson writes that he has problems with this particular set up – but so it goes. Parrel ropes certainly needed to allow for adjustments as a mast was lowered given the increase in mast diameter as a yard was lowered.
 
PS: I have noticed a BIG mistake that I have been making using tarred rope to attach some blocks to yards and sails. That said I just want to stay consistent in my errors for these bits. Grrrr.
 
Now for the really hard part -- installing the yard 
 
Regards,

 

E.J,.
 
Yes sails do add a nice finishing touch. That said get ready to spend a lot, lot of extra time with your build. They (sails) are filled with added work – much more than I had anticipated. Making the sails is easy compared with mounting and rigging them.
 
Not regretting this by any means. But I can work for hours and seem to get nothing done beyond preparing blocks, ropes and knots for one sail (;-) then trying to mount them to their respective masts along with all of the lines and ropes hanging limp to be secured later; so far so good. If I might suggest for your next build find a kit that comes with sail/rigging plans as part of the kit (mine did not). You will be glad that you took the challenge. I’m glad that I am. Thanks for your nice post 
 
In the aggregate it will be so worth the effort. My Santa Maria from so long ago was a walk in the park compared  to this build.
 
Cheers,

Hi Mates,
 
Here are a couple of full view rigging update views. The sail on the table is a reduced size lower fore. It will be furled - full size furls would have looked too thick
(thanks Frank for that tip)
 
Cheers,

Mark,- Too bad  well 2024 but not to be in your neighborhood at all - 2017 would have been awesome indeed.
Frank - No excuse for you, I don't think? -- ha ha 
Denis - 
Martyn - thanks ! funny as well
 
PS: Installed the first two parrels. 
 
Cheers,

Hi Mates,
 
Minor update – first effort at installing parrels; I will also remove top gallant fore and main sails in order to also add these bits.
I got a bit lazy with those two most upper yards.
This top fore sail broke the ice with parrels (that I intended to in any case add to lower yards.
SO;
Thought I would share what I think is a fairly easy way of doing this (for me in any case)
Photos go through sequences.
 
Anderson writes about parrel lines running down to the deck?? hmmm - Think I'll pass on that part.
 
================================
 
PS: last photo -- now need to see if my new glass is up for the job 
Oh and the Admiral – Not a fan – told me that actually when I drink I know very little and forget most things – She was not in on this Ha ha..
 
As always thanks so much for the likes, posts and just dropping by - as always.
 
Cheers,

 

Continuing work on installing sails – now onto  top gallant fore and mains first. Here are some updated pics.
 
My goal is to prepare at least one sail per week;
•Attach yards
•Make sailcloth edge reinforcements
•Make needed edge cringles
•Make head cringles
•Prepare/attach all needed blocks
•Attach all needed lines
•Prepare parrels
=============================
As always thanks so much for your continued and very encouraging support.
 
PS: I need to check my settings – since the software update I’m not getting notices from all of the logs that I also follow. Hmmm?
 
Cheers,

Hi mates,
 
Martyn - so kind thanks so much.
 
Minor update but big one for me.
 
Decided to “bite the bullet” and challenge myself to improve areas that were new and very uncomfortable (working with sail details) – so most of the day yesterday was trying to get these two particular sails acceptably ‘ok’ – feeling comfortable with the results;
 
The other nine are waiting in the wings, but I now have a direction.
 
PS: these two sprit sails are reduced by 30+% - they will be furled.
Would have been too bulky (scale wise )in full size --- Frank (fmodjr) thanks for that sage advice from your superb Vasa build log - I followed your build, and will furl all lower sails, but partially raising the lower main as you did- love that look that you created.
 
Cheers,
 

 

Hi Mates,
 
Frank thanks – nice of you to comment – much appreciated needed a “pep talk”…Denis Cheers as well !
 
Mates -Apologies for venting on my last post. Not a place in which to do this. Your kindness in following along, posting or just dropping in is not for some builder (me) complaining.
 
That said - after, I decided to go outside, smoke a nice Churchill (along with a Single Malt (or two) of course).  Listen to my baseball team on the radio, and also allow for some introspection. Cigar took care of any TV-  Admiral would have lowered the plank and pulled out her sword. Can't blame her actually...
 
It then struck me that to rush parts that are not “fun” will result, on the backside, with disappointment. Especially given the attention that I have spent trying to build it as best that I can “right” so far. Thanks Frank!!
 
So I will work in this area more carefully spending all of the time that I need to not feel that it is work, but instead as a new challenge in trying to improve my skills.
 
Minor update:
 
Found a way to add those reinforcement bits to the sails. Tea steeped some left over sailcloth to allow for a slightly darker tint.
 
Found that Gorilla Wood Glue is perfect for fixing those little cloth bits, and still allow flexing.
 
Added little dots trying to achieve the stitched look – not sure on that part. Too dark I think?
 
Won’t post until I really move forward – no point in boring you mates any further with this area.
 
As always thanks so much for the likes, posts or just dropping by……
 
 
Cheers,