NMBROOK

Hi Andy,I had not noticed this,however I tear strips from the sheet to use and invariably the tissue wants to tear in one direction rather than the other,so you may be correct.This could explain why it doesn't want to wrinkle and goes on nice and flat.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Chuck
No issues whatsoever scraping/sanding the deck once the glue is hardened off overnight,I even sanded with P60 grit in an early trial just to be sure!The glue fully penetrates the tissue making it a solid medium.
In theory,gluing the tissue to the sheet should work,the hard part is ensuring it is glued flat to the surface.The tissue is sooo thin that even any slight unevenness in the glue film will make the tissue appear wavy when the planks are laid.If some method of flatting the tissue with a credit card sized piece of plastic could be used without the tissue disintegrating,I don't know.I didn't experiment with this as Mordaunt's deck planks are shaped,not parallel runs.The tissue can be applied and smoothed with a finger on the edges of these planks,but how this would fair when working on a much larger surface,only experimentation would reveal.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi All
Just a follow up post showing the above deck section scraped and given a coat of poly.The planking does not go to the edges due to how this section fits into the Norske Love's skeleton
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Keith
The deck section here is for a scratch built Norske Love  at 1/72 The planks are 3mm wide.I shall post pics here when scraped and finished so you get an impression.Hopefully by next weekend if all goes to plan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I can see the paint technique working well on less absorbant timbers David.I would be a little concerned about using it on Pear like on Mordaunt.I think experimentation would be required as it is like a sponge and I should imagine would be prone to bleeding.On boxwood,like in this tutorial,bleeding would be non existent.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Keith
Yes the excess glue is easily shaved off the plank faces whilst it is semi-hard.I realise Dr Mike does his caulking on mass,but he uses normal paper,not tissue which is thinner and more delicate.Any irregularities are overcome with scraping as my planks are overthick to allow for this.One point with Dr Mikes system,is that he invariably works to the larger scales and his deck planks are scale thickness,this will give him a strip around 2mm thick plus.Part of the reasoning behind using tissue is a thinner line,suitable for smaller scales.Dr Mike advocates glue with pigment in for these smaller scales and I didn't fancy that as it will follow any irregularities in the plank edges,the surface finish on the edges would have to be nigh on perfect.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

You are correct Andy,what was I thinking     .Seriously though,the tissue can want to tear when you slice between,so this is added insurance
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

After experimentation and actually using this technique on my Mordaunt build,I decided I would post a small tutorial of this system I developed due to the interest it caused.
Whilst I am not reinventing the wheel,this is a variation I adopted on the common method of using black paper.There are disadvantages with using black paper,firstly,that it reduces the glue penetration in a joint and secondly,it can appear too thick at the smaller scales.Some may say,the strength is not an issue for planking on a false deck,fair point,but I wanted a system that could be used for all joints where some caulking or similar would be used.This would include scarph joints in the keel where strength is important.
There are many similarities in techniques between using paper and tissue,but there are small differences caused by the delicate nature of the tissue.
This is a pic of the lower gun deck on Mordaunt using this technique.The timber is Pear and the planks are 6mm wide max(the planking is tapered)

To demonstrate the technique,I will be planking a small deck section that goes under the main deck hatches on Norske Love.This piece doubles up as part of the structure and is made from 6mm birch ply.No camber is incorporated as this will be unnoticeable as the only real view is through a companionway.It does have some shear and this is conveniently catered for by the bow the ply has attained,being stood in the corner of the workshop for several months.
The planks are cut from 3mm boxwood sheet.Cutting from the edge of the sheet,using the thickness as the plank width,helps maintain consistency.I cut the planks @1.5mm thick.To me this is less important as the deck will be scraped/sanded smooth.All gluing is done using Deluxe Materials Aliphatic Resin.The black tissue paper is acid free and bleed resistant.I obtained mine from WHSmith in the UK and can be found in the present wrapping section.

A section of tissue was placed on a small piece of clean glass.Glue was added to one side and one end of the plank.The plank is placed edge down on the tissue,ensuring the tissue develops no creases and the plank is firmly down on the glass.I then slice the tissue with a new scalpel blade to form a 'finger' that can be curled up on the plank end.The process is repeated until you have a good quantity of planks 'edged'.
]
When the glue goes clear,but not fully set,slice through the paper between the planks.The individual planks will simply break off the glass with a little twisting pressure.The tissue should remain intact on the plank.Whilst the glue is still in the 'green' stage (a bit like cheese as it hasn't fully hardened),carefully trim the tissue flush with the plank faces.Keep the scalpel blade cutting toward the plank,not away as this can drag pieces of tissue off the edge.You can wait until the glue has hardened overnight,but I found this much harder and more time consuming.

Lay the planks in a conventional manner,ensuring to keep the tissue covered faces going the same way.I brush over the surface with a small wetted paintbrush.This consolidated any glue that has oozed out and is added insurance against the tissue dragging with the sanding and scraping.

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

This has to be the finest model I have seen in my lifetime.The video is of a UK TV series extreme machines presented by Jeremy Clarkson.It shows a Ferrari 312pb featuring a WORKING exact scale replica of the engine and gearbox.The thing even sounds right!!!
 

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Dave
 
I think that it is necessary to clarify what appearance you are after.You can plank with kit supplied material with tapering and no clinkering HOWEVER the planking will look nothing like the planking on a real ship.You can compensate by edge bending the strip but that has its limitations and it''s effectiveness varies with wood species.This does vary a lot with hull shapes,I am a glutton for punishment and build 3 deckers mainly.These hull shapes are very unforgiving when trying to use parallel strip.
As the original would have the wales fitted prior to planking the planking must appear to run inbetween the wales to look authentic.This again compounds the problem that planks need to curve in two directions,quite a lot on some vessels due to the sheer compounded with the hull curving inward.
Regarding tapering,it really doesn't matter which side you taper and on the garboard,this piece invariably is anything but straight so there isn't really a tapered side.
On my build of Nuestra Senora (the pic Chris has used above)things get even more complex,the hull is divided into bands of planks on the lower hull,but these bands are tweaked to provide a pleasing visual run when viewed from all angles.This does not follow exact ship building practice,but reflects the style that contemporary models were planked,with no stealers or drop planks.
Regarding sheet stock,I would wait until your kit arrives to determine exactly what thickness you require.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Absolutely wonderful work Amalio    
 
May I ask how the lining planking is fastened to the mould to allow latter removal?
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Alexandru,wow,this has got to be the most spectacular models of Victory I have seen.I am not a big fan of too much paint on my own models,I would rather let the beauty of the timber shine through,so your build appeals to me greatly      .
Stunning work!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

One way to heat to avoid melting them would be to put in a domestic oven.The lowest melting point for this type of metal is around 230 deg c.If the oven is set below this,no matter how long the casting is in the there it will never exceed the ovens temperature.I agree with Andy though,resin copies could be the way to go.You can actually remove these from the mould when still 'green' ,they are hard enough to maintain their detail,but still soft enough to be shaped to a contour.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I have not tried with white metal,but annealing works with brass castings.If it is a big bend then I anneal and bend so far and then anneal again.This overcomes the work hardening caused by bending.
Kind Regards Nigel

I have framed the doors in Ebony using a machined angle profile.They have been given a coat of poly.I am varnishing as I go as,if nothing else,it protects the boxwood from Ebony dust which can mark the boxwood and requires sanding to remove.
 
I have fitted four of the gallows?brackets under the balcony.There are two more still to fit at the transom sides.These will be shaped later as it is much easier to make sure the compound shapes line through.
 
The rear of the doors have been shaped where they fit to the existing planking.These have been epoxied into position.The upper section will be faired later before the planking continues upwards.
 
There is a dubious sheen to the matt poly at the moment.A later coat sprayed on will kill this and produce an even finish
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have framed the doors in Ebony using a machined angle profile.They have been given a coat of poly.I am varnishing as I go as,if nothing else,it protects the boxwood from Ebony dust which can mark the boxwood and requires sanding to remove.
 
I have fitted four of the gallows?brackets under the balcony.There are two more still to fit at the transom sides.These will be shaped later as it is much easier to make sure the compound shapes line through.
 
The rear of the doors have been shaped where they fit to the existing planking.These have been epoxied into position.The upper section will be faired later before the planking continues upwards.
 
There is a dubious sheen to the matt poly at the moment.A later coat sprayed on will kill this and produce an even finish
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi all I have started this thread as other related threads seem to be going of on a tangent Not only that,for future reference to readers,I thought it may be better that any discussion regarding these fine kits is all in one place.Peter has devoted a lot of his free time to creating his interpretive files which can be downloaded on Euromodels website.This charts the construction of the individual models.If you have a question or would like to add anything about this,please go to Pete's thread 
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5541-euromodel-interpretive-files/
 
If you would like to discuss anything other than this related to Euromodels kits please feel free to post it here.
 
Kind Regards Nigel
 
 

Dunno Mark,I tried it yesterday,but it kept including an image from my first post.Need to read up on it as I think it has changed with the new forum platform.
Kind Regards
Nigel

Looking forward to following on Mark
 
Kind Regards
Nigel

Your planking is coming on great Ulises I have recently bought Mamoli's plans for this vessel and do propose to build her in 1/60.Other than cutting and assembling the skeleton,this build is a little in the future for me.
The mention of coppering is something I have been thinking of.Mamoli's model clearly represents the vessel of 1759 and is almost an exact replica of the model in the Paris museum.This vessel was wrecked whilst in drydock in 1772 after seeing active service in the seven years war.I am debating whether she would have actually ever been coppered as this was a little early for the French Navy.She certainly wouldn't have been when built.
I concur that this model in 1/90 is rather large particularly in breadth and having cut out half the bulkheads,in 1/60 it is huge!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Michael there is a useful guide to Leds on this website,this is where I get my LEDS and various other items for my RC builds.
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/
Kind Regards
Nigel
P.S. make sure you follow the guide to voltage,required voltage varies with the colour of the LED,too low it won't work,too high it will blow.This is why you quite often have to incorporate resistors in the circuit.

As you may know Danny,I broke up a model of this vessel and salvaged most of the fittings.I intended to finish her,but found her hull to be 50% plaster.If you let me know what you need,I will put them in the post for you.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just some pics of the plans and instructions included with the model.Note date on drawing,not quite as old as me,but older than my wife   .The instructions actually include more information than some of the current ones from Billings!I will take pics of the model at the weekend as I have several bags of loose items to wade through.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just had a very pleasurable read through your log Bob,great work!
Kind Regards
Nigel

All Righty Then .. Photo Time ...
 
This is Ballahoo as she currently stands...  Everything in the photo is secured in its final position,  masts are removed as they were only dry fitted .
 
Thanks For Stopping By Folks .. All The Very Best from 'The Speedy Boatyard' formally known as 'Snails Pace Yard' 
 
Eamonn