SgtSki in MI

I've already downloaded and read them. I'm sure to be consulting them often while I'm planking.

According to the instructions for my Niagara kit, the model meets the rule of a scale-length plank starting and ending at the center of every 5th bulkhead, so there should be no planks ending in open air.

While I am yet to begin my Niagara kit (first wooden build), I am always thinking and pre-planning. So today's planking question is: Is it better to cut scale-length planks, or to use a single strip and scribe false butts? I'm thinking that, since it's my first wooden ship, that I should use a single strip along the full length of the hull. That way, any bulkhead fairing that might be a little "off" would be less apparent. Of course, I do plan on double-checking my bulkhead fairing before I begin planking!

I'm wondering what a good length would be for a digital caliper. Right now I'm considering a 6" caliper that does metric, SAE, and fractions.

How does the Fair-A-Frame work out for you? I bought one, newbie that I am. I've seen in several posts that it's a waste of money and time. I'm yet to start building my Niagara (my first wooden ship kit) and I'm wondering if I should even put the jig together.

I'm itching to get started with my Niagara, but first I need to finish two plastic builds before I pull the trigger on her. Did you run into the same issue with the bulkhead slots on the centerpiece not matching up with the plan sheet? Someone else mentioned running into that.

I'll be building the Niagara (my first wooden ship model) after I get a few plastic builds finished. Thanks for posting this, I know to look out for it now.

Jenga blocks and a trigger clamp! I had those around the house. I guess I didn't have to buy that Fair-A-Frame! Oh well...I'm a newbie. Nice work so far.

Good luck with your build. I'm a wood ship newbie too and will be building Model Shipways' USB Niagara as my first. Right now I'm almost done with my workbench (pics on my build log) Then I have 2 Entex 1/16 Model Ts to build and after that I'll be patiently starting the Niagara. I will also be alternately working on Revell's 1/96 Constitution . I look forward to watching your progress!

Here's a link to a free paper model of the galleon "San Salvador" currently under construction at the Maritime Museum of San Diego. They have an advanced difficulty kit and an intermediate difficulty kit. When you go to the page, scroll down and you'll find the download links about 3/4 of the way down the page. Here's the link:

http://www.sdmaritime.org/san-salvador-build/

Canon Creative park has several FREE paper model projects including some tall ships. They're not near as detailed as the Polish kits and rather toylike, but fun to build. Maybe a project to do with the kids/grandkids? Here's a link to Canon's Cutty Sark from the website:

http://cp.c-ij.com/en/contents/2027/cuttysark/index.html

I am waiting for my Niagara and tools to arrive in the mail. Good luck with your build. I am following and will be watching with great interest. Once I get started I will make sure to start and maintain a build log of my own.

I am waiting for my Niagara to arrive in the mail. I also ordered the Fair-A-Frame from Model Expo. This will be my first static wood kit, although I have successfully built with wood when doing R/C planes and boats. I am following your build log and will be watching with great interest.

Thanks for the advice everyone! I looked at the manual that I downloaded and she doesn't appear to be double-planked. I'll know more when the kit arrives and I can see the plans. I also plan on taking a trip to Erie, PA where the full-sized replica Niagara is berthed. The model's plans were drawn from this ship. I also picked the Niagara because of her ties to the Great Lakes, where I've spent my entire life, except for my 13 years in the Marine Corps. I also would like to go to Boston to visit the Constitution, but according to the Navy's Constitution page, she's going into drydock in March 2015 for a three-year refit and to be put into her accurate configuration as she was under Hull's command during the War of 1812.

Thank Geoff! My name's Tom, much easier to type than "sgtski!" I'm unsure if the Niagara is double-planked or not. I downloaded the instructions so I'll go and consult them. I'm comfortable with whatever attachment method is preferred, I just want to do it right since it's a $300 kit. I got it for $199 but still. Not my most expensive kit though. I've built a few 1/8 Pocher automobile kits in the past. Nothing teaches you patience more than building up 4 or 5 wire wheels doing those kits! Thanks for the input!

Ahoy all. I'm brand-new to wooden ship modeling. In fact, I'm waiting for my first kit and tools to arrive. I also have a few plastic kits in my build queue before I start on it. One is Revell's 1/96 USS Constitution which I bought to help hone a few rigging skills before doing a wooden ship. The kit I selected is Model Shipways' Niagara. I figured that my woodbuilding experience in R/C planes and boats would allow me to begin my journey with an intermediate-level kit. After watching videos and reading tutorials my major burning question is this: Are nails used in planking or glue? I've seen both used in tutorial, primers, and videos. Is there a preferred method? Are the nails just to let the glue set? I've seen carpenter wood glue, CA, and nails used. I was anticipating nailing when I ordered the kit, so I also ordered a nailer with my tool set (Excel Deluxe Ship Modeler's Kit). I understand the math and geometry of planking, and the bending techniques, I just need the fog cleared on the method of attaching the planks. Thanks!

I've been wanting to build this kit for years. I finally pulled the trigger and found an earlier release on Ebay which arrived yesterday. I wanted an older kit because several build logs indicate that they are molded much sharper and cleaner. Mine was a US Bicentennial release and the box is dated 1974. I plan on building her with standing rigging and have downloaded the current instructions from Revell's website because they are much more detailed than the the instructions original to my kit, especially when it comes to rigging. I plan to accent the build with metal eyebolts, wooden blocks/deadeyes, and possibly an aftermarket wood veneer main deck. I also plan to replace the kit's figures with 15mm wargaming figures so that I can have the ship's Marine Detachment drilling on deck!