thomaslambo

Build log part 16
 
did a trial mock up today for for rounding the 19 mm high cabin wall corners. The doors are  15 mm resp. 14 mm  high depending on position of mounting
 
Nils
 
 

 
doors with window frame, and doorknob are of brass
 
 

 
cut a profile bar for the corner- fitting of the cabin wall plates
 
 

 
easy to round and blend out
 
 

 
a good base for the plating....
 
 

 
gives a nice smooth corner connection
 
 

 
door and porthole fitted

Thank you Denis,
 
it really looks like the glue-swelling out went back over the week. Quite good that I did`nt remove it, otherwise there would be pits in the "skin" now....
 
I`m working at the decks in the waist areas now, after finding a supplier for wonderful precise cut mini pine planks 2 x 0,8 mm. The "caulking" is done with a soft dark pencil along the planks edges
 
Nils
 
 
 

 
a set of 300 fine cut pine-planks 2 x 0,8 mm
 
 

 
planked forward waist area
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
the lower aft waist deck stripes
 
 

 
will do the shrouds for the aft mast later on with buckle screw fastening / tensioning , therefore sufficient bases for anchoring points beneath the deck stripes
 
 

 
the promenade deck will cover these outcuts in the sides later on

thanks Patrick,
 
the work now is quite a long haul job to get all the decks to fit.   I plank the decks before mounting them, so  they can be sanded smooth and sealed with a dull varnish. All walls, deck bulwarks and -housing go on top of the planked decks. When the decks are on for permanent, there will be several rails to the upper hull sides. The metal plating does not go over the rails but fits neatly in between these.
 
I had a upsetting experience last week, when I had tilted the window of my basement workroom to allow nitro fumes of the wood sealing primer and it`s nitro smell to escape over night  ......
In the meantime we had much rain and bad weather, so that the high ambient humidity fell through the tilted window into the basement room just looking to settle on and in my hull. Next morning some of the longitudinal white glue joints (planks glued together at the edges as well) suffered swelling from the moisture a bit, and the nice smooth hull felt as if it needed a sanding and fairing session again 
 
I decided to leave as is, watch it over the week, hoping the glue swell will go back by itself. and to use watertight white glue (propeller glue) next time. Its getting better now day by day
 
Cheers,
 
Nils

Build log part 15
 
Status update:
 
today I cut into the hull sides at the waist areas, the front area lowest point, right down to the deck and the aft Area, leaving an 8mm high bulwark standing. Next will be the deck-planking job in these waist areas. The raw decks  were dry-fitted and are ready for planking
 
Unfortunately I found no figurines in scale 1:144 in fashion of 1900 clothing, pleas, does anybody know where to find some ? 
The only ones I found are out of the airlines scale figurines, and I`m not so fond of military figurines, but I´m happy to have some at all for dimension checks
 
Nils
 
 

 
a Dremel grinder is good for this work
 
 

 
the second raw deck is laying on the second stringer from top, the upper stringer has been cut away, so the remaining bulwark is flush with the inside of the side planking
 
 

 
the port side will have to be brought to the same status
 
 

 
the 8mm raw-bulwark is in hight slightly above figurines waist hight, handrail still to be fitted
 
 

 
 

 
the forecastle deck is still a card template
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you for your Input Larry,
 
maybe I`ll go for your suggested solution,......
but I`ll try the use of a mini L-angle brass Profile to the deck , so that the railing stripe can be carefully spot soldered to it, if it wo`nt look too messy afterwards. if the L-rail perhaps is soldered on to the railing stripe first, the other flange of the re-drilled profile could be pinned to deck for fastening (going to be a tricky excercise anyway...)
 
Nils

Many thanks to Patrick, Ioannis, David and Bob,
and the "likes"...
 
as the outer deck railings will be only 8mm high, I decided to favour rather foto etched stripes from copper sheet. instead of built railing with stanchions. Have to work out a suitable way to fasten These to the related hull /deck Areas. The ordered samples unfortunately did`nt arrive this week. The upper most of the 6-chord railing is the handrail which is of Wood on the actual ship, but in scale 1:144 I`ll have to put on a very small U-shaped brass liner stradling over the upper edge, and paint it in wood color. (at least thats my Intension, if there comes no better solution to mind)
 
Nils

Update for forecastle- and first waist deck,
 
It all looks a bit rough in the moment, The front waist-deck was made to the card template and can now be removed for planking. Need to check the hights with the little 1:144 figurine
 
The forecastle deck will need the anchor tubes with suit taylored outlets to the bow sides fitted in, before it is planked( only about 2/3 of it`s area (pics will follow later on )
 
Nils
 
 
 

 
my little room for the rough work
 
 

 
I fixed a preliminary,horizontal  (loosenable) steel-rail, to which the drawing can be clipped (magnets)
 
 

 
The funnel arrangement in two groups provides the first class dining resaurant and lounges to go over the full width of the ship, this has been well accepted by the passengers, This design had also been adopted for the follower liners of the Norddeutscher Lloyd, and gave an unmistakenable silhouette for identification from the distance
 

 
three deck high, and over the ship`s width, the 1 st class dining saloon
 
 

 
the little white figure is used for determining the correct deck-highjts
 
 

 
here the deck curvature can be nicely seen
 
 

 
when clicking on this pic (to enlarge) the hand drawn frame distances on the drawing can be seen. I chose 26 frames over the ship`s length
 
 

Thanks Patrick,
 
in answer to your questions...
 
the average time for a window like this is 15 minutes, and there are (my Count)  84 of this type, so that makes 1260 minutes = 21 hours
 
Yes, I have thought of RC Controlling, because the  propshafts  are functional, but I would have had to add some complicated gear System to the ruddershaft, inside that tail-cone. So I rejected that thought at an early stage already, I also trust that the ship will be much to fragile for water contact. Also I do`nt know how the plating (adhesive gluefilm) would behave in water...
 
Nils

Build log part 14
 
 
preparing for the decks, cutting out card templates, will be using 0,8 mm ply and plank this with 1 x 2mm scaled pine strips, pencil "caulking" at the plank edges
 
Nils
 
 

 
inbetween I do 2 more windows at a time...
 
 

 
the forecastle card template and  half the front waist template (one deck lower). The outer limiting timbers (forecastle sheer) will be shaped to fit the rounded transition from hull to deck
 
 

 
half poop deck template
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for looking in Denis and Scott,
and all the "likes"...
 
Denis,
I have the wooden hull smooth and treated with filler where necessary, all is covered with one coat of nitro- Wood-bounder, to fix the grain.
The forecastle deck is very much rounded down to the sides typical for this ship (like some fishing Trawlers have), that is what I`m working on right now. These rounded side Areas of the forecastle deck will be plated as well...
 
 
Scott,
thanks for dropping in,....
The plating of the hull still needs to wait until I have the decks on, and the upper two rails mounted to the sides
Nils
 
Ammendment :
 
here a non scaled hand-scetch for illustration,,,,
 

 
 
 

Build log part 13
 
 
a little update...
 
applying a bit of filler for blending out transitions and putting on the transom knee-rail around the stern...
 
Nils
 
 

 
pencil mark for the transom rail
 

 
 

 
 

 
nice smooth hull now...
 
 

 
blending out of the propshaft housings
 
 

 
the lines of an early  "Blue Riband racer"
 
 

 
the transom knee rail is of brass, in order to resist / avoid later dents from knocking against...
Glued and fixed to the hull with 15 brass anchors 0,6 mm diam.
 
 
 
 

update....
 
some trials for promenade-deck  / boat-deck windows.....
 
This one of the pics that Peter (Mr. Hollom) sent me with the old couple in front of the deckhouse with the windows concerned, inspired me at least to try do it in scale 1:144 and in brass.
 
This is the result of the first trial (yet without glassing)..., before the glassing comes in, the background of the "pans" are painted silver-grey, for glassing I intend to place resin into the frame, that cures without shrinking and remains completely transparent in the frames
 
The window is a vertical doubleframe with common mounting flange and 3 hinges sidewise for the larger frame and 2 hinges on top of the smaller frame. Its completely made of brass, if I could, and had the capability,  I would have etched it out of plate....
 
The reason for doing this trial now, is because there may come some ideas for improvements for better looking, and when the lot is made, there will be round about 80 - 100 windows to make in repeatable mode
 
Nils
 

 
double-frame window type
 
 

 
common frames are made from hollow brass square rod resp. rectangular rod, I soldered both together and cut slices....
 
 

 
soldered onto a common plate (mounting flange) and glued the hinges on (three sidewise , two at the top)
 
 

 
the two horizontal pencil-lines resemble the deck levels on the little mock up sample and the handrail is directly under the window
 
 

 
the model figurerine is only 12 mm high

Hi Larry,
 
there are so many portholes next to one another that that heat involved shaping would not provide a sufficient, repeatable look on the ships side surface. I am enclosing a little trial sample with three portholes. The little upper silver sample shows what hapens to the foil when the hole is not propperly cut, pre- to drilling the wood.
The righthand one on the black colored sample is best looking, but I feel the rim is too prominent, ......
The next two are not so prominent and they are flush with the hull skin, which comes nearest to the actual look. The semi material I use for those are priceworthy lead end-bushings for electronic conduct wiring DIN 46288
 
Nils
 

 
I feel the left two ports look more in scale of the actual ship`s ports
 
 
 
 

 
the actual ports are flush with the hull skin, except for extra "eyebrows" on the upper side of the hull

Update...
 
its time to get the rudder further on..
two cladding brass sheets are soldered together on the aft edge, top and bottom a narrow triangle piece is soldered in, and that fits on the already installed hinged skeleton.
 
Nils
 
 

 
the rudder is preliminary mounted. The propshaft housings are faired down to a smooth and a little smaller diameter
 
 

 
here the tapered rudder can be seen
 
 

 
rudder full starboard....
 
 

 
and midship....
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
ready for primering, now the portside rudder must be done to the same status...

Many thanks to - John - Patrick - Grant,
and all the "likes"..
 
I`ve used this technique on the ports for my other ships before, so there is some experience with it already, but in combination with the "glassing" per littel cylindrical bits of cutter-line is new.
There is another Advantage of this Methode : if the cutter-line insert stand out of the rivet-tube (inside the ship), it wo`nt bother anybody, but it has the capability to catch light, for instance from a central placed Illumination LED lamp inside the ship, for the effect of "fibre light optic"...
 
Nils

Hi Nils
 
The method you've come up for the portholes is ingenious. I would never have thought of using the nylon trimmer line for glass!
 
Works nicely, that's for sure.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Build log part 12
 
 
 
today I did some preliminary trials for the portholes, Size, glassing, mounting in plated planked hull...... It suits scale 1:144, whereby the actual porthole inner diameter, when opened should pass a man through (in case of fire on the ship)
 
The hollow rivets are from brass with galvanized tin coating. The hollow inside diameter is 2,4 mm
The "glassing" is cut from a 2,4 mm diam. grass trimmer line, where the cut surface face becomes tranparent. A mini drop of low viscosity CA at the far end secures the safe fit to the hollow rivet tube
 
The critical part is to drill through the plating foil without destorting it, by cutting a clean round hole through plating-foil and wood of the hull
 
I`m quite happy with the results so far
 
Nils
 
 

 
The figure`s hight is 12mm, the hight from deck to deck will be 19-20mm
The "glassing" stands back appr. 0,5 mm from the outer rivet face
 
 

 
it is important to get a clean cut through the plating foil
 
 

 
 

 
a little cutt off end of the grass trimmer line goes into the hollow rivet, secured with a tiny drop of CA
 
 

 
for cutting through the foil I use a brass tube with sharpened end on one side, slid over a centering drill....., the function is: cut the foil clean, center and drill through the models planking with the other side of the centering drill
 
 

 
remove the cut out foil piece from the tube with a pointed tweezer
 
 

 
my special "tool"
 
 

Christian,
 
The criteria for the plating material (Aluminium, copper, brass, etc. ) is the availability in such required foils, (like 0,125 mm), and with suitable adhesive gluefilm Quality, and the suitability for poncing the "rivets". Because I had good results with Alum. for four  "riveted ships" already, I`ll use it again.
I know there are here and there shipbuilders plating plans indicating the pattern, but I also find those too complicated and too strict to follow.
 
I look at the number of plating "chines" on the actual ship, the size of the steelplates, and how they run on the aftship section (if there are dry dock photos available thats a great help)
In general I start with the first plating line, leave a gap with 90% platewidth and do the third, before the second plating line is put on, covering horizontal riveting lines of the first and the third row.
The vertical rivet Joints are 2 or 3 or 4 rivet-rows, (Higher stresses) whereby the horizontal line are a rivet-row less. With the plating of These heritage Liners there were also reinforcing double and tripple plates, patches and Support plates, in some cases even as additional "belts" like it can be seen on many riveted and well built models of the Titanic, Lusitania, etc. (from there Comes the term "Rivet Counter....."
 
The KWdG plating is basicly planed like my done plating on my other models. I will have to pay special attention to the aft area and around the propshaft housings, to get a good and acceptable result, that will cause some trials first and hopefully not too much headaches
 
Nils

update, deckstringers glued in...
 
will have to adjust the sheerline a bit bothsides before cutting the "waists" fore and aft, where portiones of  "one deck lower" will be installed. These deckportions in the sides outcuts area will be pre-planked before mounting.... The forecastle deck outer area will be remarkably rounded downwards to the sides sheerline, which is characteristic for this liner
 
 
Nils
 
 

 
all the wooden beams that are under the deck later on will not be visible, therefore no need (exept for the hight related outcuts and slots)  to have precision joint fittings here
 
 

 
the upper sides of the deckbeams will be excactly faired to suit the deck curvatures, resp. rest on the side sheers
 
 

 
I just weighed the hull at this stadium : 1550 Gramm
 
 
 
 

the rather narrow bowpost (2mm) is blended out to transit into the  keel (5 mm), flush with the planking
 
 

 
the transition area (vertical planking to horizontal planking) will be further faired shortly before the plating takes place
 
 

 
one of the three sleeve holes through the keel for the M4 galvanized steel pedestal spindels of the stand
 

thanks Nigel,
 
yes , you are right, viewing those pics my mind is revolving on that mode.... "how can at least part of those details be done, in order to reflect the charme of 1900", also the lovely cabin walls of the deck housings
Just have a look at those toothwheel operated turning devices for the vent Hoods, fantastic !.....
and that in scale 1:144
 
Nils

Peter,
 
thanks so much !
These photos are not only beautiful Detail shots of that that aera in technical shipbuilding ( eg: width of deck planking, vents on the boats deck, etc.) at the turn of the century, but also historical document of the passengers fashions
 
Nils

Thanks for your comment Peter,
 
and so much for sharing These wonderful historic Photos.   There is a book on the market author: Eberhard Mertens, "Deutsche Lloyd Schnelldampfer" which I did`nt invest in yet, due to my Budget, but I presume you may have it...
Where did you find These pics ?, and mentioning there were even plenty more, Oh, you realy made me so curious now, would very much appreciate if you kindly would be able to drop some now and then,  together with your visits to my log ....
 
there are so many Details to be seen on those pics, like the outcuts for the anchor chains in the second forecastle wave-breaker, I was just wondering how I could / should do that
 
Cheers Nils

Build log part 11
 
 
some progress on building the hull....
 
Nils
 
 

 
this is no convertion to a viking longboat, but temporary protection to the prolonged bowpost until the upper bow bulwark is ready for attaching
 
 

 
my wife asks me this morning, if I`m sure the ship is not much too narrow...
All the overstanding frame hights have been cut off
 
 

 
between the second and the third rail (stern) I need enough place for attaching the decoration and the name, and homeport.
For providing adequate space for the portholes around the poop and perhaps some "eyebrows" over the portholes, I had to increase the hight of this (round the stern) plank accordingly as well as a good transition of the sheer in foreward direction
 
 

 
these are preliminary deck-stringers, for dry fit. There will be a pit right down to the lower deck, just behind the later forecastle bulwark
 
 

 
 
 

Many thanks Patrick and Mick,
and all the "like this" button activators...
 
 
Patrick,
Thanks for your appreciation, I took her off the board this afternoon and was delighted of the work so far, a straight symetric and light hull like it should be. All the overstanding frame hights will be removed (cut off) and the upper deck stringers put on. The slot places are integrated alrteady when I cut the frames
I am including some pics of this milestone moment....
 
 
Mick,
Thanks for your words ,..
For plating I shall use self-adhesive aluminium foil stripes which will be ponced from the rear side to resemble the riveting
Before the plating comes on, there is still some filler application work to be done, and several semi-round rails must be attached to the ouside hull skin.
 
 
 

 
removed from the board and put on the upper end-cap plank 180° around the stern.
Stb aft view...
 
 

 
stb front view
 
 

 
view into the aft ship hull. The outcuts for the deck stringers can be seen here
 
 

 
 
 

 
the "deck-beam" upper lnes are pre cut, so only the outer sides of the frames need to be cut. In this way the decks will have a positive curvature in width direction
 
 

 
one of the three lock-nut devices for the stand`s pedestal-spindles (through the keel and anchored in the "backbone" )
   
 

 
removing some old hardened glue drops out of the hull

Build log part 10
 
 
bow post and vertical stern planking put on...
 
Nils
 
 

 
the upper portion of the stern rounding will be horizontal planking
The upper propshaft housings still need to be planked, and the whole stern area requires fairing and blending for smooth transitions afterwards
 
 
 

 
the bow post (beech wood) where the plates are riveted to later on, gives the nostalgic touch to the rather sharp bow
 
 
 
 

 
its time to take the hull off the board now....