jml1083

I did finally finish the nailing of the external planks.  That took a long time.  My advice would be to really consider how long it takes to drill all of those holes and insert the 10 pound black fishing line.  I think its quite worthwhile but once you commit to it you have to follow through and do it to the entire model.  So think it over first.
 

 
Once that was done, I could work on the inside...finally.  The photos below show the floorboards and platforms in position.  The floorboards are a bit different than you might be used to.  This is the way they are made on the contemporary model and I actually found some original drafts of longboats that show them this way as well.  Its very interesting and I think its a nice detail to add to make this longboat model a bit unique and different from other kits of the same subject matter.
 


It may be hard to tell from my photos but the center plank and two outside planks of the floorboards have a rabbet along their edges.  Normally I would scrape these details into the planks but Yellow Cedar doesnt scrape well.  So instead I made these three floorboards in two layers.  They are all pre-spiled and laser cut.  The finished thickness for the floorboards is 1/16".  So two 1/32" layers were used.  They were glued together to leave the rabbet on both sides although the outside planks of the floorboards only have a rabbet on one side.  You guys will see this on the plans.  Once completed I marked the locations where the frames would be so I could add the simulated nails before I glued the floorboards on the model.  See below.
 

The thinner floorboards were easy enough to glue into position.  Its the wider boards that were a bit tricky.  These are 1/16" thick as mentioned and because they are quite wide it was more difficult to pre-bend and glue into position.  Should anyone have trouble with this there are other solutions.  You could make these out of two layers of 1/32" stock like the other floorboards and glue each layer into position separately.  They would bend more easily that way.  You could also convert the wider floorboards into two thinner strips too.
 
The platforms were pretty straight forward.  Each of the pieces are laser cut and after gluing them together edgewise they are ready for test fitting.  I also ran some 1/16 x 3/16" strips across the bottom of the platforms to give it strength.  Probably just like they do in real life.  I also added one of these across the flat edge of each platform which will show so take your time with this.  The platforms were nailed off the model as well.  
 

 
A look at the bottom of the aft platform...it aint pretty, but it doesnt have to be.   One feature not laser cut into the platforms are the notches for each frame.  Everyone's model will be slightly different as they may shift.  So you must mark there locations and file the notches before final placement can be finished.  Its not hard to do.  You may want to trace each platform on some card stock first and locate the notches that way as an alternative.  Then transfer them to your cedar versions.  The bow platform is a bit trickier because of its location.  So I recommend that you do make a card templete first and transfer it to your glued up version.  I made the pieces for the bow platform over-sized to compensate for the wide variety of bow shapes everyone will have.   But you can see how mine look ad are shaped.  Note how the notches are also beveled so they sit nicely against the frames.  This is something you will need to do as well.  The bow platform is done exactly the same way.
 


A look at the contemporary model.
 

 
 
 
 

Thank You guys for kind words and support.
 
Here is a quick look at some images of the plans as they are in development.   Still lots of work to do on these but they are getting close.  They wont be finalized until after I finish the hull but this will give you an idea of what this project will look like.  And yes (before anyone asks) the images are altered and no parts shown will enable them to be pirated.....these are just pretty pictures at this point and all parts templates are on sep sheets.😊

 

Thanks Joe,
 
Fulfillment will always be an issue.   I make these kits because I want to build them myself and its just the logical next step to also want to make it available to everyone else.   As a one man shop it will be tough in the beginning to fill orders but that is why I am making this an NRG/MSW exclusive.   This project will only be available to MSW members.   In fact, to buy any part of it you must enter your MSW username in my store.  This will keep orders a bit more reasonable but maybe even drive up MSW membership.   If most buy the starter package and just scratch the rest it wont be that bad to make all of these.   I am actually already starting to laser cut the starter kits and keep them ready.   They will be ready as soon as the plans and instructions are finalized.   
 
I will then work on the rigging plans and instructions after that.  But the rigging plan including templates for all the sails will be available for free as a download here.  Of course everyone can buy the material from me for the masting and rigging but this also gives folks an option to get that stuff anywhere....especially across the pond.   So its a bit of a unique project for me that shouldnt be as difficult to produce as the barge.  That frenzy has ended though and I can easily keep barge kits on the shelf now.  Its just the first six months or so that is crazy.  
 
This isnt going to be a money maker for me.....its going to be a fun maker for me and I am eager to get a group started on our forum.  I am excited to build this in a group with my local club where maybe a dozen of us will get together and actually work on it a few afternoons each month.  If I could find a laser cutter with  enough Cedar or swiss pear on hand that I didnt have to ship to them, I would probably outsource the laser cutting to lighten the load so I can immediately start work on the cross section and Winnie again.  I guy can dream cant he?
 
 

Thanks Dirk
 
For nails I used 10lb black fishing line.  Holes were drilled with a #77 drill bit.  Then a sanded the holes lightly to remove any burrs from drilling.  The fishing line was dipped in titebond and inserted into each hole.  I worked on one frame at a time as shown.   Once dry they were sliced clean away with a straight razor.  Then some light sanding.   Thats it.
 
The port side is completed now and I am really hope to get the starboard side done quickly.   We shall see.  More pics below.
 

 



 
 
 
Chuck

Its been a crazy two weeks.  My Daughter is all set up at college and a room has opened up for my Mother In Law in assisted living.  I will be moving her in this week so she is all settled by Friday....hopefully.   Which one will get homesick and ask to come home first, LOL.😂
 
Anyway, its been a while since I had an update but I have fallen behind a bit understandably.   I painted the cap rail and inboard sheer strake.  I did this first before adding the knee at the bow below.  I still have some touch up and repainting to do there but you can see the results so far.   I have dozens of more coats of paint before I am going to be satisfied with the finish.   
 

I have also been creating and testing the frieze for the transom.  Here is one such test where a sample is temporarily tacked into position.  The size and shape is good and I am finalizing the color and design.  Its getting close though even though this photo seems a bit washed out because of the lighting.
 

Here is an image of the frieze on the contemporary model. I am not sure yet if I will paint the white border and the edges of the molding on this model.  But we shall see as things develop.
 

In addition i did start simulating the nails in the planking.  I am using 10lb black mono filament (fishing line).  Its going well but will take a good amount of time.  I held the hull up to the light so I could accurately mark the locations for the frames.   I couldnt start work on the interior with the floorboards and platforms until this is completed.   Remember that these are nails and not wooden treenails. I wouldnt have been able to see the frames through the planking with those installed.  So once this is completed I will move to the interior details.   So this project is moving along even though it slowed down getting the two girls set up in their dormitories...LOL.   I will post more details when I get some time to breath.....
 

 

No its scraped off the model see below.  You can see the profile.  And some pictures with better lighting.  I had the brightness up too high on the last ones.
 

 

I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape.  It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail.  Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze.  Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it.  The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
 
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar.  The molding is actually boxwood.  I find it is the best material for scraping moldings.  I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon.  But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.  
 
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model.   I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it.  After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again.  That was cut out and applied to the model.
 
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
 



 
 

The outboard edge of the caprail was thinned down...it was easier to do this while holding the hull upside down.  You want to leave 1/32" overhang with the cap rail.  But that is a bit excessive but for now it is good to leave it a bit more.  The top of the cap rail will be painted red.  I will inevitably get paint on the outside edge which should remain bright, so once the cap rail is painted I will sand it nice and clean and make it less of an overhang.
 
Then it was time to fair inboard which always makes a mess.  The goal here is to careful fair the frames so they get gradually thinner as they work their way to the sheer.  In our case, the goal is to reduce the cap rail to a minimum width of 5/32".  Any wider would look way out of scale.  If you can manage a bit narrower that is even better.  You can see in the photos what mine looks like and its 5/32" wide.  There will be one strake inboard that is 1/32" thick.  So that would make the overall width 3/16".  So after I install this I will sand it a bit thinner then paint.  Then I will sand outboard edge again and the results should leave a cap rail that is just under 3/16" wide.
 
Then the interior was cleaned up a bit and I applied a coat of wipe on poly.  You can see the difference in the before and after photo and see how the cap rail was shaped etc....especially at the bow.  I used 220 grit sand paper to fair the inside because anything coarser would grab the frames and possibly break them if they werent glued to the planking securely.  Slow and steady is the way!!! 😊
 

 

 
Note that the inside edge of the cap rail at the bow is flush with the aft edge of the stem.  This is what you are shooting for.
 

 
The aft edge is sanded flush with the sides of the transom and then the shape of the transom on each side was tweaked to clean everything up.  I still have some minor tweaking to do but its just about done and ready for the next step.
 

 
 

Chuck's incredible modeling skills aside, his wood choice does have a very pleasing scale appearance when viewed close up. Looks a lot like full scale pine to me. Certainly more realistic than boxwood in my opinion. I've been working on a project using the yellow cedar for the first time and had trouble achieving a finish similar to Chucks. He recommended using much finer sandpaper 280 - 400 grit and the results are much better.

Thanks Dirk,
 
Moving right along, the cap rail was added.  It is made of 4 laser cut pieces. They are made over sized and we will thin them down considerably later.
A few things worth noting are the cut-away for the roller at the bow.  This is on the port side only.  So I had to remember to put it on the right side. A 50-50 shot of screwing that up.
 

Anyway, you will notice that I penciled in some reference lines to show everyone what this will eventually be shaped like.  But this will happen gradually as we need to take this in steps.  There are many details to be added which are easier with an over sized cap rail.

At the stern you will notice how the cap rail goes UNDER the wings of the transom.  This is important to note as you are planking.  There will be a gap between the plank and the transom and that is normal and as designed so the cap rail will fit.  It is 1/16" thick. 

The reason why we cant just start thinning down the cap rail as usual is because this longboat has an interesting feature at the bow we must complete first.  Normally we would sand the cap rail flush with the outboard planking.  But before we can do that, we have to fabricate the bolsters at the bow.  There are two bolsters on each side of the stem.  This "beefs" up the stem and helps support the area with the roller.  In addition, it strengthens everything up there to help support the bowsprit iron and bowsprit.
 
You can kind of see the bolsters in this photo of the contemporary model.
 

Here is what ours will look like.
 

On every model that I make there are at least one or two parts that are quite a challenge to make.  On this model,  it will be these bolsters.  There are many compound angles to consider.  But if you plan it out ahead of time it will go smoothly.  You will start with a laser cut blank. Because these parts have the potential for many attempts to end up in the trash....I will provide everyone with eight blanks so you will have plenty of fun.
 

But I will explain step by step how I shaped these bolsters and hopefully it will become clear.
 
First, I recommend starting with the starboard side which has no roller.  The blanks are all the same so it doesnt matter which ones you choose.  Below you can see that if you hold the blanks against the stem tightly that the aft edge will need to be beveled quite a bit so it sits flush against the hull planking.  This is the first thing that you should do and dont worry about any gaps at the top too where the bolster sits under the cap rail.  Just concentrate on the getting a snug tight fit against the planking first.
 

I have guestimated the amount of bevel required below by marking it in pencil for you guys.  Note how there is more of a bevel towards the bottom of the bolster.

I used sand paper and files to create the bevel.  I stopped and tested its fit dozens of times as I tweaked it.   The photo below shows that its almost there. There is plenty of meat on these blanks so you can sand and reshape quite a bit.  So just keep going until it fits good against the planking.
 

Once you are satisfied,  You can do the same thing with the top edge and how it fits under the cap rail.  It should also be a tight fit here.  In the previous photo you can see it fits pretty good without any tweaking.  But I will give it a few passes anyway.
 
Next you want to draw in the line that represents the concave shape of the bolster on its outside face.  It will taper down to just 1/32" thick at the bottom.  This line should follow the run of the sheer and planks.  You should place the line even with the bottom of the first plank.  I placed mine a bit low in the photo below...so adjust yours to be even with the plank line.

Once completed the two bolsters will look like this. And after you create the concave shape you can trim the bottom so it lines up with the bottom of the third plank.  Its over-sized and will need to be trimmed.  In addition,  the front edge will eventually be sanded flush with the stem.  But right now it hangs over quite a bit.  That is OK.  Just deal with shaping them and trimming the bottom edge right now.
 
Note how you will need to make a matching pair of these. The only difference is that a small notch needs to be carved out of the top of the one for the roller.  You can see that below.  It adds more room for the roller itself.  Its shown on the left.

Glue them into position and then sand the front face of both flush with the stem.   Thats all there is to it......easy-peasy right???
 
Dont worry its not too bad.  JUst go slow and take your time.  You will be able to adjust the shape a bit after its glued into position as well.  This will make it easier to get a matching pair port and starboard.   Dont sand the side of the cap rail yet!!!!  Other than the front edge, leave it as is near the bolsters.  We will be sanding other parts of the cap rail first.
 


 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you so much guys.   It was time for the fun part.....to remove the buildboard and break away the frame centers.
 
The first step was to remove the braces for the stem and stern post.  At the stern post I just pushed them free from the bottom.  Then I shook them out.
 

After I removed the tape holding both halves of the buildboard together, I carefully and gently coaxed one half of the buildboard free.  Dont rush this and slowly pry it off a little at a time working one side then the other.  It will be tricky to get it started especially on a humid day.  But once it starts wiggling free it will come off readily.
 

Then using your special tool of choice (everyone has their favorite) you can carefully and slowly cut through the tabs on each side of the frame centers.  Then bend them back and forth to snap them out.  Do this one at a time.  Dont worry about breaking any frames because that will not happen if you have glued the top of your frames securely to the sheer plank.  If when you start cutting the tab you see that the entire frame is loose and not secured to the sheer plank, stop and apply some CA.  Let it "wick" down to glue the frame to the plank.  Then resume cutting that tab.
 
I used the thin saw on the left this time but often use a simple file as well.  Whatever you are comfortable with.
 

Here is a shot of a frame center on the barge being removed as I didnt take any of the longboat.  Same principle.  So I didnt want to duplicate in order save some time.
 


 
And finally some pictures of the model after removing all of the frame centers.
 

The next step will be fine tuning the sheer.  I will sand the tops of the frames flat to the sheer and also sand the sheer so it has a good smooth run.  I dont want any dips or high spots.  These can be seen by viewing the hull head-on and stern -on at various angles.  Once satisfied I will add the caprail which is laser cut.  Hopefully over the next day or so. 😊
 
 

Chuck's comments on planking (post #131) are right on. We have so many older books that have brainwashed us into wrestling straight planks into shapes they can't assume, using so many clamps, pins and hold-downs of every variety. Most of this received wisdom needs to be challenged. 
 
If you planks are properly spiled and shaped, of a suitable specie of wood to the correct thickness, bent using moisture, heat or a combination thereof, you should never need to clamp them!

I dont clamp my planks.  Clamps arent needed ever....it just complicates things and makes it more difficult. At least for me.
 
If you shape your planks properly and pre bend them they should not need any clamps.  I take my time tweaking, bending and twisting ahead of time.  I will test each and every plank over and over again before I ever glue it into position.  Its not something that happens immediately after spiling a plank.  Even after having a laser cut plank already shaped, it is close to fitting well..... but  never perfect.  There may be gaps and high spots because of how I placed the previous plank on the hull.  Its an inexact process.  There may be slight gaps between it and the previous strake.  So I use sandpaper and sanding sticks to bevel a bit more.....or very lightly remove a high spot that might prevent an area next to it from fitting tightly.  I will remove just a hair and then retest.   I will do this until the plank fits snug against the previous strake all along its length.   I may also re bend or re-twist using heat.  Then test some more.  I could easily spend 45 minutes to an hour on one plank if its giving issues.  I may over bevel or over twist and end up screwing it up.  So I toss it and make another.
 
For all of my builds I use Titebond exclusively....except for planking.  All of my planking is held to the frames with CA.  I add a drop or two of CA with a toothpick to just two or three frames being careful to be very neat.  Then I glue the plank to those few frames.  Then I flex the plank so I can add some more CA to the next two frames...lifting it slightly to reach under it with my toothpick glue applicator....position and press the plank against those frames.  I will slowly work my way down the length of the plank a few frames at a time making sure it tightly fits against the previous strake.  I just hold it with my fingers for a few seconds and press it flat against the frames.  The glue will hold and no forcing is needed, because the shape was good and the twist and bend was good before I started gluing.
 
Hope that makes sense.  At times when I have to sand a high spot off the edge of a plank so it fits tightly against the plank already on the hull,  I will have to make a mental note to adjust the next strake so I can stay faithful to my tick marks and planking plan that I made while lining out.  This is what prevents the run of the planking from getting too waavy or out of wack.   Without those tick marks as a guide I would be lost, with or without pre spiled and laser cut planks.
 
I hope this rather lengthy description makes sense.  But this is basically my process.  No magic just slow and methodical,  No special clamping procedure other than my fingers.  test ....shape .....then retest....and finally glue.  Its hard to describe in writing.
 
One thing I will mention however.  I have been watching a lot of people plank hulls over the years.  In most cases the planks they are using are way too thick.  The thicker the plank the harder it is to glue it into position.  I rarely use planking thicker than 3/64" thick.  If I need a thicker plank like in this case....I would rather use two layers than try to bend and twist a 1/16" thick strip or a 5/64" thick strip.  That is just nuts.  I have watched some people try and bend really thick planks for the wales...why in the world does this make sense when after using several layers nobody can ever tell the difference.  Like on those Hahn models you are building.  I am amazed at the thickness of the wales and you guys try to force one big thick chunk of wood into position with or without pre-bending and twisting.  Its something I will never understand.

Today was a lazy, hot summer day.  I am pretty caught up making rope and blocks so I decided to spend the day finishing the external planking.
 
The last two strakes along the sheer were completed.  As mentioned earlier, these are thicker planks than those below them.  The second strake being the wales.  I contemplated doing these two last strakes several ways.  One I thought about was to just use thicker planks.  This is a good solution but I kept thinking about some of the guys I know who have trouble bending and twisting heavier planks.  The hull is pretty sturdy at this point but being forceful with a heavy plank could be problematic for some, especially if they dont take the time to properly pre-bend and twist it to shape.
 
So in the end I opted for a modelers convention of simplification.  Just as I add the wales on my other builds, I decided to use two layers.  The 1/32" thick planks bend and twist very easily.  This is especially true with the yellow cedar.  A second layer of 1/32" planking will be laid right on top of the last two strakes and nobody will be the wiser.
 
Here is the hull with the first layer of planking completed. I was quite happy with the results.  Once both sides were done I could see that the port side was less than 1/64" lower at mid ship than the starboard.  Nothing that cant be adjusted with the second layer.  This is one of the benefits of using a second layer.  You can make small adjustments to correct any issues with the ring of your planking at the shear.

The second layer is also 1/32" thick.  But this is actually slightly thicker than I would like.  It is better to sand them down slightly afterwards so they are a bit thinner and not standing so proud of the planks below it.
 
On addition note.  At the bow and stern, the planks are actually not thicker.  They should gradually reduce in thickness so they are the flush with the planking below them.  This is easy enough to do after both strakes are completed.  At the stern, I just sanded the last 1/2" of planking so it gradually reduced in thickness and matched the other strakes when viewing the transom head on.  You can see this feature on the contemporary model attached.  You can also see where I shifted one layer to correct the run.  This wont be seen under the painted frieze.
 

The same thing was done at the bow, but I find it easier to use a sharp chisel to slice away the thicker plans along the stem to reduce their thickness.  Then I feather that back with some sandpaper so its gradual as it should be.  This is all very similar to clinker planking on the barge but we are cheating perhaps and using two layers to simulate the same look.
 

Heres the contemporary model...which is simalar because it was carved and hollowed out from a solid piece of boxwood.  The wales and sheer strake were then added as a layer on top of the solid carved hull.  Can you imagine basically hollowing out a block until it was thin as an eggshell!!!
 

 
And one last photo of my hull.  All the exterior planking is now complete.  I could leave it on the baseboard.....so I could nail the planks (not treenail because they were actual nails).   BUT I think it will be easier to do after the cap rail is in position.  I also find it hard to see the frames down by the keel now and I dont know where to place my nails.  Removing the frame centers and the hull from the baseboard will allow me to hold it up to the light and see the frames clearly.  The planks are so thin it is quite easy to do.  I will hopefully mark the locations of the frames this way so I dont miss when I drill the holes for the little nails.  Hope that makes sense.  So tomorrow I will remove it from the baseboard and break-out the frame centers.   I have already removed the braces at the bow and the stern that helped hold them stationary.  They weren't glued into the slots, so I just popped them out.  Even the two center ones at the stern.  It will make removing the baseboard easier.
 
 
 
 

I could......but nope.....  this is really something everyone should learn to do.  Its not very difficult and if you are a serious builder and want to learn how to plank properly,  this is the perfect project to try lining off.   There are only 9 strakes per side in one belt.  It cant get any easier.  I do try and make these projects as easy to build as possible.  But I draw the line at these fundamentals....I am a person who believes this is the one thing folks need to try and learn to do themselves.   Its the reason why I stress its importance on every build.   And as part of the group it is something that should be considered one of the "educational" aspects of the project.   I even contemplated NOT including the laser spiled planks for a moment.  Some say I am slowly approaching an "assembly" project like a plastic kit rather than something that is actually created.  So I have started choosing more deliberately how far to take the engineering.   
 
Hopefully that doesnt seem too harsh....but it does take the fun out of it for some.  I would even suggest that you discard the pre-spiled planking and instead plank it all without the aid of the laser cut materials.  I may even offer them only as an extra but its something that I have thought about quite a bit.  Any thoughts???
 
 
 
 

Seven strakes are now completed.  This is important because these first seven are 1/32" thick.  The last two at the sheer will actually be thicker at 3/64".  This is because the wales (like on a larger ship) are thicker then the planking below it.  You can see this in the photos of the contemporary model.  See below.
 



 
One thing I would like to point out that concerns me....
 
Even though I am providing laser cut , pre-spiled planking, there is still a chance that your planking will not go as well as you might like it to.  As you can see in the photo above, I have the luxury and safety of having my tick marks on each frame.  This is a very welcome thing to have as a reference.  As you plank the hull and work your way towards the sheer, you will still need to bevel and tweak the edges of each plank so they fit tightly against the previous strake.  This needs to be done only in various areas of each strake as the hull curves. 
 
You need to match the angle on the edge of the plank already on the model.  Should you over-bevel.....or under-bevel,  you will be slowly changing the runs of your planks so they arent the same as mine.  Therefore, as you get to the seventh strake there may be compounding very slight differences which create gaps (probably minor) which will require more beveling or more sanding for a tight fit.
 
Having those tick marks present as a guide will help you keep on track,  You can make minor tweaks as needed to keep each strake running along your tick marks.  So having pre-spiled planks creates a disadvantage because you wont have this road-map.  So I recommend that you do in fact line off your hull as I described so you will have some sort of plan to follow.  You may in the end not create an identical lined off hull and your tick marks may not match exactly the way I have them on my model.  BUT even so,  having these tick marks as a guide are in my opinion .... invaluable.  You guys should take the time to do so.  
 
Let me know if you have any questions. 😊
 
 

Rather than packing tape, try 3M Magic tape. It is slightly frosted and takes pencil well. Even better is the 'temporary' version with re-positionable adhesive.

Thanks guys.
 
You guys know that I am Italian and from New Jersey.  But that is not why I covered my model in plastic.  That is only good for my living room sofa.  
 
But I mentioned after I showed how I lined off the hull, that I would show you guys how I translate those tick marks on the frames into actual spiled planks.  In the photo below, hopefully you can see the clear tape on my model.  This is just plain old packaging tape.  Many people use this technique and it works very well.  I however changed a few things over the years.  Rather than run a long strip of tape from bow to stern, I use short lengths that run from the keel to the sheer.  I over lap the different small pieces as I work my way across the hull.
 

 
The important thing to remember is NOT to flex the tape.  Just put each segment down and let it conform to the hull shape.  This is why I dont use a really long piece from bow to stern.  You would be most likely to bend and flex the long piece edgewise which would not give you very accurate plank shapes.  You must be able to remove the tape without flexing it edgewise and then place it on a flat surface like card stock or even the piece of wood you are cutting the plank from.  By using shorter pieces running the other way and overlapped, it makes it more difficult to flex the tape at all.  So when you remove it,  it stays the same shape as it was on the hull.
 
Anyway,  run a pencil along the edge of the last plank already on the hull.  Then trace over each tick mark on every frame.  You should also mark the plank butts and the ends of the strake.  Normally on a hull like the Winnie you would only need to do the bow area and the stern area to find the shape.  It is easy enough to plank mid ship and there is no need to run a piece of tape across the entire hull.  But in this case, I am creating laser cut planks for all of you guys.  So I must do the entire strake.  I could do it in sections but its just as easy to do the entire hull in one shot.  The hull isnt that long.
 
Carefully remove the tape without flexing or stretching it.  Then carefully lay it onto a flat surface.  In my case a piece of paper that I will scan.  Then connect your tick marks and clean it up a bit using french curves.  I just eye-balled it.  I connected the dashes to reveal the true shape of the spiled plank.  hopefully you can see it below.  Normally I use a fine point sharpie because it writes on the tape better but my kids find them and I never see them again.  So I m just using a pencil.
 

 
You can see how I connected the dots to reveal the shape of the plank.  If you placed this on card stock and cut it out with a sharp blade, then you can test it on your model.  If it fits.....and it should....then trace it onto some thin wood sheet to cut your planks.  I will be scanning it and making a vector drawing so I can laser cut them.  
 
Hope this makes sense....feel free to ask me any questions.   Its easier to show this in a tech session than write about it.
 
For this kit and project you guys wont have to do this....(you have the laser cut planks)  but I do recommend you give it a try on any other model.  You will fall in love with this method once you see how well the planks fit at the bow......snug against the frames or bulkheads.
 
Chuck

Yes actually...but not many pictures.  But here are the images for setting the garboard strake in position.  The garboard and all of the other planks are laser cut.  They will already be spiled to shape.  Even so, they will need to be pre-bent to fit without forcing them into position.  Unlike the MS longboat kit, this model will be planked from the keel upwards.  The garboard strake is made up of two sections.  It is important to start with the aft section first.  Below you can see the aft section of the garboard strake with quite a bend in it.  This is needed and its important to do so before gluing.  

The plank is 1/32" thick and was bent using the same method I always employ.  I used a hair dryer to heat it up while I twisted it to shape.  Here is an image from the barge construction but its the same technique used here.  If its not twisted and bent enough....then just clamp it again and continue to shape it.  The one difference this time however, was that I used a sacrificial piece of scrap wood on top of the plank when I clamped it to the table.  The Cedar is very soft and the clamp would dent it easily.  So placing a piece of wood on top of the plank and then clamping it to the table prevents it from being dented.  This is just an arbitrary plank from the barge kit and not the garboard but you get the idea.
 

Before gluing the aft section of the garboard in position, you must test it on the model.  Tweak it if needed but it shouldnt need much work.  One thing that will need to be done is to cut the forward end to length.  Because each model might vary slightly, I made this section extra long so it hangs over the frame as shown.  Just mark the plank on the center of the frame and cut it to length.  Do this AFTER twisting it to shape.  Then glue it into position.
 

The second forward section of the garboard doesnt need to be adjusted in length at all.  This section is pre-bent and twisted and glued into position.  It is worth noting that you should bevel the edge of the garboard along the first 5 frames where it sits against the keel at the bow.  This makes for a tighter and cleaner fit in the rabbet.  Remember to test it before you glue it on the model after you bend it.  You should be able to see where the bevel is needed.  Here is a photo of the garboard completed with both sections glued onto the model.  The  butt seam between the sections was darkened with a pencil on one side.
 

 
Here is a look at the forward end of the garboard.  You can see how nicely it fits into the rabbet.   I repeated this on the other side making sure they match.  It isnt too difficult when the planks are laser cut.  Remember that there are only 9 strakes per side.  So only eight more to go!!!  The garboard is the trickiest though because it sets the run for all of the other planks above it.  But if I wander slightly from my tick marks, I can correct those little issues as I move forward.  It is worth mentioning that you guys wont have any tick marks to rely on....unless you go through the exercise of lining out the hull as well.  I absolutely recommend it.  Your tick marks may not line up with mine exactly but if you wanted to give it a try with only nine strakes vs. 25 for a frigate......its good practice.
 

 
 
 
 

Now as I mentioned, this project will have pre-spiled planks.  There will be no reason for anyone to line off the hull and spile the planks themselves.  But I still need to do it.  So if anyone is interested I will post that process here with some photos.  Even though this is just a small longboat vs a large frigate, the hull must be lined off for planking and I must create a plan to follow before I cut any wood for planking.  The method described below is the same thing I did for Cheerful and it will be the same thing I do for the Winchelsea.  The one difference however, is there will not be a need to split this hull into two or three belts of planking.  Its size dictates that the entire hull will be treated as just one belt of planking.  
 
Step one is the easy part,  after doing some research to determine the correct width for your planking you must decide how many strakes will fit at mid ship (dead flat).  This will be different depending on the subject you are modeling but once you look at steele or whatever sources....you can make that determination.  For the longboat,  I have decided that it will have 9 strakes.  This is typical for these boats.  Some have 8.....and some have 10.  But this one will have 9 strakes.
 
Step 2....
Cut some thin tick strips from paper.  Hold them along the edge of the frames.  You will need to mark the overall length of the frame from the keel rabbet to the sheer.  Its very easy to do.
 

Step 3...Take that tick strip and lay it on top of your planking fan.  Because we know that this area will need to be split evenly into nine planks, its just a matter of sliding down the fan until it fills the space up.  Then mark the strip with tick marks.  The black horizontal lines on the planking fan were just put there so I have some reference to help me keep the strip level rather than angled.
 

Step 4 ..Take that strip back over to the same frame and transfer all those tick marks onto the frame edge.
 

All of the frames have been marked except for the htree frames at the bow and the three frames at the stern.

 
Now you shouldnt do this to every frame.  You should repeat this exercise for every frame except  for the last three aft and the first three forward frames.  Those three frames on each end of the hull are tricky.  There is a much easier and accurate way to determine the run of the planks for these areas.  Consider for example that at the bow, each remaining frame may not even contain all 9 strakes.  So measuring their length and dividing by nine doesnt work.  
 
This next step will not only allow you see the run of the planks at the bow and stern, it will also let you double check that the tick marks you just made on all of the other frames are correct.  You will soon be able to make adjustments to those as well.  This is exactly what I do on every hull before planking.
 
Step 5....Use some thin strips of black tape to visually create the run of the nine strakes.  I bought some typical black art tape that was very sticky.  Its like black masking tape.  I cut very thin strips from it about 3/64" wide.  These were used on the hull to determine the run of every strake.  I do half of the hull at a time.  First the aft side. Then from mid-ship to the bow.  Make sure there is no dust on the frames so the tape strips stick really well.   Some people prefer to use string that is glued to each frame.  Use whatever method works best for you.  I like the tape because it is easily re-positioned.
 
I used the tick marks I just made on each frame to position the thin tape strips.  I worked my way aft from mid-ship until I reached those last three frames with no tick marks on them.  Basically I "just eyeball it".  I just continue running the tape onto each frame in what I think is the natural and correct path for that plank.  DONT WORRY.....REST ASSURED THAT IT WILL BE ALL WRONG.  But after you place all of the tape for the nine strakes on the hull like this, you will be able to see where its screwed up.  You can carefully adjust each tape line until everything looks good.  Adjust and tweak until the tape runs smooth and graceful across those last three frames and right off the edge of the model.  Take your time with this.  Adjust them mid-ship as well because you will be able to see where some of your tick marks were wrong.
 
Than take a sharp pencil and mark the edge of the tape to create the reference lines on those three last frames.  Also do that for any corrected marks mid ship.
 
Aft side...
 

 
At the bow...
 

 
It is a lot harder to describe this process in writing than it is to actually do it.  This didnt take that long and spending this time makes it much more likely that your planked hull will look right.  So if you have any questions let me know.  Its much easier to show how to do this in person.  Next I will describe how I take the marks on each frame and convert them into an actual spiled plank.  Maybe this Sunday
 
 
 

Today I glued the keel onto the frames.   You want to have a cup of water and a paint brush handy before you begin.  This is used to clean the excess glue from the joints after the keel is placed on top of the frames.  Before you begin, make sure that all of the frames are facing the correct direction.  The lettered frames face one way and the numbered frames face the other way.  I also recommend tat you do a few dry test runs before using the glue.  We are basically starting with the stern half of the frames first.  Practice placing the keel into position.  You will quickly discover that all of the frames are not lined up perfectly with their intended notches in the keel.  You will need yo work them in one direction or the other until the keel slips into all ten notches. 
 
Doing a few dry test runs will let you know which frames you will need to tend to once the glue is added.  Dont rush it.  You will have plenty of time to do this and tweak each frame if need be.  I found it easier to place a generous dab of glue on the end of the frames rather than in each slot of the keel.  Once seated properly clean off the excess glue and leave it to dry.
 

Once that dries, it will be time to slide the forward ten frames under the keel and repeat the same process.  Absolutely do a dry run with this.
 

Once that glue dries, flip over the model and tape the two halves of the build board together along the joint.  DONT glue it.  Use a generous length of tape and several pieces.  I like to use the reinforced tape with the string in it for added strength.
 

Then its time to fair the hull.  Its somewhat fragile as many of you who have built the other models like this will attest.  But it is pretty sturdy.  Use either 320 or 220 grit sand paper to fair the hull.  I wouldnt use a coarser grit because it will grab the frames and possibly split them etc.  But use a light touch and proceed slowly and carefully just like you would with any other fairing.
 
Here is my model after it was completely faired.  You can use the laser char on the edge of each frame as a guide as you continue fairing as well.


I mentioned earlier how another builder familiar with this type of model gave me a building tip.  He said to use the tape on each side of the frame to help strengthen it while you fair  the hull.  I can report that it was a big help and I recommend that you guys do it as well.  In addition, because so many people have built the pinnace , the original longboat or the barge, I have had many other tips and experiences shared.  One additional tip was really good.  In the photo below you can see a small 3/32" wide by 1/32" strip glued to each frame where the attachment is.  This is usually where the frame would break if you are a heavy-handed sander.  The scrap strip was glued with tite-bond.  It really made it sturdy and I didnt worry at all about splitting the little tab connecting the center of the frame.  Once I was done fairing the hull,  they were removed using either of these two methods.  You can apply some rubbing alcohol and let it just fall off with a little coaxing.  You could also just leave it there.  There will be a plank covering it inside and out and it wont be seen.  Just keep it to 3/32" wide or less.  It wont make it any more difficult to remove the frame centers later on.  I just used this strip on the five single frames but you could do it on all of them.  But its up to you.  I faired the hull with no breakage.  
 

 
Now its time to line off the hull and start planking!!!!!  YIPPEE 
 
 

I finished the second keel assembly today.  You can see the differences.  You will note that before gluing the transom into position I added the bolts for the lap joints on the keel.  There are once again several way to do this depending on your tastes.  The bolts would have been copper but I dont like the look of shiny copper on a model.  So I am using 20lb black fishing line.  It works very well.  You could substitute 22 gauge copper wire if you wish.  The bolts are only simulated in that they dont go all the way through.   You can of course do that as well.  But rather than risk the drill bit wandering, I decided to just drill shallow holes that were filled with the black mono-filament.   Then I used a straight razon to shave the excess away flush with the surface.  I sanded it with 320 grit sandpaper.  Then applied some wipe on poly.
 
Feel free to ask any questions.
 
Next I will glue the keel onto the frames and start fairing the frames for planking.
 




 
 

I think she will be a pretty longboat.  If you recall,  there will be two options for assembly of the three keel parts.  The simpler version has the parts simply butt together and that is fine.  But for those who want to try a bit more ambitious joint, there will be some laser cut parts prepared with the beginnings of some lap joints.
 
I Have not removed any laser char from these pieces before "carving" and completing the lap joints.  In the photo below you can two of each part.  One shows the lap joint as prepared by the laser cutter.  The laser can not etch deep enough to complete the lap joint.  But you have the area laid out with precision so you only need to make it deeper.  You can remove the material until it is half the thickness on each side of the lap joint.  There are multiple ways you can do this depending on your skill level and what tools you have.  You could use a sherline mill for example.  In my case however,  I opted for the cheap yet effective sharp #11 blade.  I slowly sliced off little shavings until it was close to the correct depth.  Then I used a sanding stick to clean it up.

Periodically, I stopped shaving and slicing to check how the lap joints fit together.  The two photos below show the two lap joints test fit together.  Just a little more to do and clean up and I have it.  One thing I would caution you on is not to rush it.  Dont get "close enough" and then think you can sand the outsides flush after you glue them together.  This would be very bad.  You would see the weird twisted shape that would develop and the other slotted keel parts wouldnt fit onto it properly and that error of impatience would snowball as your project moves forward.  Keep in mind that these are extreme close-ups.....you can really see the wood grain.  But once the finish is applied....that will disappear.  I will take photos again once the remaining pieces are added and the bolts are added.  ut after the glue dries on these three parts,  I will sand the laser char from the edges and clean it up.
 


 
and once again, here is a comparison of the two options for assembling the three keel sections.  The slotted parts will be added as soon as I clean it all  up.  You might also notice my change to the stern post so the model will use the more historically accurate method to attach the rudder.  The older photo is below and those changes arent shown.
 

 

A bit of a milestone.  All of the frames are completed and assembled.  I have not applied any wipe on poly yet, but will do so before gluing the keel  into position.  I am holding off because I want to build the second version of the keel assembly with the actual lap joints.  That is the one I will actually use.  So I should have an update soon with those details.  But for now...I have tested all of the frames and all fits well.  The photo below shows the simpler keel assembly dry fit.  Hopefully you can get a sense of the hull shape now and the graceful sheer.  Because this is an early longboat it has a much more pleasing shape than the other Long boat model I made.  I have gently flipped it "right-side-up" in the build board so you can hopefully see the sheer and shape better.
 
Once I complete the other keel and glue it to the frames....fairing and planking can begin.  Its coming together quickly.  In fact,  other than the plans,  this will constitute the starter package as seen in the photos.  Everything you need to get this far.
 
If you have any questions let me know.
 



 
 

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

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