Jump to content

dvm27

Members
  • Content Count

    1,753
  • Joined

  • Last visited

6 Followers

About dvm27

  • Birthday 04/05/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Baltimore, MD
  • Interests
    17th and 18th century naval architecture

Recent Profile Visitors

4,475 profile views
  1. You have certainly mastered the laser Chuck! The hair bracket and scroll work looks just like the Navy Board versions.
  2. I look forward to your take on the cheeks and rails with their intricate moldings. Your scroll work has already set the bar for other manufacturers
  3. Congratulations on the completion of a beautiful model Kevin! She looks lovely in her case - just nope nobody puts a knee through her glass while enjoying a cocktail.
  4. I quite agree Chuck. The planked/left in frame approach makes for a very nice display. And when I'm ancient and warehoused in some crappy senior facility I shall at least have a small reminder of the past by my bedside. Those other fully framed large models will be cluttering up my kids homes. Incidentally, the cross section of Echo below has diminishing futtocks but the ribbands cover the transitions so it's virtually impossible to pick out the 1/2" steps. Hardly worth the effort. I do it not because I'm a "purist" - just OCD with details!
  5. I quite agree Chuck. The planked/left in frame approach makes for a very nice display. And when I'm ancient and warehoused in some crappy senior facility I shall at least have a small reminder of the past by my bedside. Those other fully framed large models will be cluttering up my kids homes. Incidentally, the cross section of Echo below has diminishing futtocks but the ribbands cover the transitions so it's virtually impossible to pick out the 1/2" steps. Hardly worth the effort. I do it not because I'm a "purist" - just OCD with details!
  6. With this kit diminishing futtocks would be easy to do; your frame indexing system would make this a breeze. But cast top timbers are another matter entirely. Looks like you've wisely eliminated them in the final disposition of frames for the Winnie x-section. I planked my Swan x-section so using cast and diminishing frames seemed like looney tunes to me.
  7. Kevin, I believe when it's time to fair you will see that the fore edges of the fore cants and frames will disappear while the aft edges will require little if any sanding. The same will hold true with the aft cants and frames except in reverse. The mid frames should require little if any fairing. If the kit has the actual bevel lines etched on I would strongly suggest you leave them on the full side until fairing. One over-bevelled frame can distort each frame around it.
  8. Looks terrific, Karl. How did you hold the ballast together? Diluted white glue?
  9. We used to sell the plans on Mylar but now they are sold by Sea Watch Books and are printed on paper. You could have the paper deck plan copied onto Mylar at a print shop but as Druxey noted make sure they match perfectly.
  10. I did the same with my Swan class model, Ben. Looks like your Mylar pattern fit better than mine. Well done! Tony, you can make little pin pricks through the Mylar to transfer marks. It's very accurate. I also made deep pin pricks at the fore end of the pattern as registration marks to relocate the pattern each time it was removed.
  11. My only problem with earlier CNC carvings and moldings was that they looked like they were done on a machine. You have achieved a level of proficiency that makes your work look very natural, like they could have been made by a talented sculptor. Who could have a problem with that?
  12. I did that on my Hannah model Jim and the result was too much black (I assume you're talking about for deck planking). Perhaps a grayish black would work better. I think the pencil edge blackening technique is more subtle and doesn't over power the surrounding work. Definitely experiment first and don't forget the finish. You don't want the black paint to run if applying a finish over it.
  13. Yes, Volume Two has four sheets of plans (masting and sparring, standing rigging, running rigging square yards and running rigging fore and aft gaffs). All line sizes and falls are illustrated.
  14. It is indeed, Carlos. Just received my copy and am very pleased with the final product. Hopefully, those looking for a smaller project but at a scale that is accessible for much detailing (1:48) will give it a try. With the two volume Speedwell book and plans you can't ask for a better set of instructions. Now maybe some enterprising third party will offer a set of carvings for the project like what happens in the model aircraft industry with photo etched upgrades.
  15. That looks terrific, Toni. Looks like you've mastered those tricky gains fore and aft.
×
×
  • Create New...