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About dvm27

  • Birthday 04/05/1954

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  • Location
    Baltimore, MD
  • Interests
    17th and 18th century naval architecture

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  1. Having pre-ordered my book months ago I just received notice that is was shipped but with the Brexit problems it will take several months to arrive. Of course I could have had the same book in two days from Amazon if I had waited. As they both come from the exact same publishing house it's stupefying how different the delivery times are. It must be wonderful to be Amazon!
  2. I was thinking of showing my Speedwell in progress at the show but I was afraid the temporarily placed carvings might disappear. Guess I was right to be hesitant. RIP little Chucky! I hope a disgruntled client didn’t lift it for voodoo purposes. Any unusual aches and pains lately Chuck?
  3. Nice job on the waterway Kevin. The purpose of the waterway was to provide a seal between the side and deck planking. Water seepage would lead to beam end and surrounding wood rot. So this timber had to be very robust and secure from moving. Hooked scarph joints are quite strong and would help prevent separation along the waterway. Some authors consider the waterway to be part of the side planking as opposed to deck planking.
  4. Wonderful work, doesn't appear to need much fairing at all! I see you decided to do the hawse holes at a later point. After ruining a few hawse pieces I opted to cut them in later as well. I note on my 15 year old Swan class model I've had no gaps appear between the filling pieces between the floors of the frames. Perhaps that's because it's in a case in a temperature controlled environment. I did have gaps appear in my current Speedwell model but I think that's because she's been moved frequently to areas of different temperature and humidity.
  5. Congratulations on completing a very difficult section Bruce! Your model is looking very nice. This is my first visit to your log and I note the gratings in the waist are very different than those on the quarterdeck. Would you consider replacing the ones in the waist with Chuck's kit versions as they are not period correct and to me detract a bit from your otherwise excellent work.
  6. I knew you could do it Kevin! Few tips regarding your latest video: 1. Deflection is always a problem with small diameter parts. You get much less deflection using wider stock. Just turn the amount you need to the final diameter but leave the tailstock portion wide. 2. Always use a center drill. Sherline makes some very small center drills that are perfect for sheaves (0, 00). 3. While parting small drilled items insert a wire into the end. This way they won't fly off and leave you cursing when you can't find them. 4. There are some very fine Vallrobe Swiss files that taper almost to a point. They are perfect for forming the concave part of the sheave and deadeyes freehand while the lathe is running.
  7. I have good success using the widest blade (0.0625") I have for my Byrnes saw. The key is to leave the top overlong so both ends are always parallel and resting on the table surface. Otherwise, as Kurt said, you can introduce wobble. You can create rather long slots by nibbling away at the piece then running it through in one pass lengthwise to unify any missed sections.
  8. Even though the gaps would be imperceptible on the finished model you have set an excellent precedent for future work. if you neglect a small detail that's not to your liking now it becomes easier to ignore the next one...and the one after that. I think you'll be very pleased with this model, no matter how long it takes.
  9. Depending on the location of the high spot you could spot glue a strip of 120 grit sandpaper to the rising wood and deadwood. Gently rub the underside of the keelson over its position until the gap disappears. Just a few passes, reassess, then a few passes until you creep up on it. This worked well for me. But in all honestly this gap will be invisible in the finished model.
  10. I found it convenient to temporarily glue the drum pieces together, turn to the final diameter, unglue them then mill the slots for the capstan bars half way on each piece using the mill rotary table. They were then reglued forming the fully thicknessed capstan bar mortises. I thought this would be easier than drilling evenly spaced holes and turning them into squares. But I'm sure you'll figure create the same effect.
  11. Cutting those sill mortises perfectly is no easy task Matiz. As usual your work is perfection. I like your little mini-clamp which you are using to prevent the frames from shifting while working on the sill mortises.
  12. That's the way I do it. I mill off two of the surfaces of the nut to fit into keelson slots to receive them. They are epoxied in place. If you could add an additional bolt fore and aft of the original two that would be sufficient to secure the hull whatever display you choose.
  13. Due to illustration reproduction problems we have had over the years I would always go with the stated dimensions.
  14. Good result Kevin. Persistence pays off! When milling it is best to have small pieces like the bitts sitting on a base of the same diameter which extends to the bottom of the mill vice. This base serves as a positive stop so that each face can be rotated without worrying about aligning with the top jaw of the mill vice. In addition, when milling small pieces of wood the tightening of the vice will frequently squeeze the bottom of the vice slightly narrower that at the level of the top of the jaws. This can loosen the grip and cause milling errors. Below is a quick mock up of what I have described.
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