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About dvm27

  • Birthday 04/05/1954

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Baltimore, MD
  • Interests
    17th and 18th century naval architecture

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  1. Doesn't matter whether this is kit or scratch - you're building a beautiful Swan class model! Your attention to detail is producing excellent results.
  2. Those look great. If you're wanting to go a step further you can use a felt or flannel polishing pad attached to your Dremel or regular drill at low speed. It gets into all the nooks and crannies and creates a perfect uniform polished finish. Depends on your preference.
  3. I'd be surprised if the full sized ships were this perfect. Your attention to detail is inspiring - as much woodworking as it is art.
  4. Really nice job Jamie! I think I tackled that model 50 years ago with very poor success. Those pine hulls needed a lot of work. Hope you're putting it in a case.
  5. Have you laid out the station lines on your building board? On the sheer plan each floor/lower futtock is inked in. Make sure all these lines are transferred to the building board. Only at each station line only will you be adding the fillers. They may vary in width as the sided dimension of the futtocks also varies. Sided means seen from the side (or lateral view in your medical parlance). The spacers are generally 3" sided at the keel and narrower higher up. There is one triple frame at the dead flat. So in the photo below all the spacers are at the station lines and are easily seen as they are holly (in contrast to the boxwood frames). In addition, there are fillers between the floors/first futtocks). It may be convenient to fit them before raising the frames. I did no do this but it would have been easier. Feel free to PM me if this is not clear.
  6. By all means Henry, post a build log. As well, study the build videos posted by Kevin. They are very detailed and he happily shows his mistakes and how to correct them. In addition check out the many Swan class logs. Amongst them are Dan, Toni, Remco and Ben. They may already be tagged. If not perhaps Chuck can show how it's done. Greg
  7. I agree with Alan. Second attempts have not turned out as well for me. Go back to bare metal using a wire wheel to get in all the nooks and crannies. Congrats on the good results for the other batch!
  8. Your beautiful run of planking and ports with nary a wave or undulation to be seen reminds me of...the Navy Board models I worshipped as a teenager at the Naval Academy. Although the original model shipwrights might harumph at the amount of time it's taken you to get this far I'm sure they would wholeheartedly approve of the result!
  9. The Shapeways part is a roller coaster. After painting I am placing it in an epoxy resin cube and making a lamp out of it for a grandson. Lots of cool epoxy resin videos on YouTube with 3D printed parts inside.
  10. My last Shapeways product was painted then immersed in epoxy resin. The paint leached into the resin, ruining the project. I just read where direct sunlight will cure the resin so I will leave the next one out over a sunny day, then paint it. Perhaps a varnish after to seal?
  11. Brilliant, Gary. That actually looks like it could be functional. Happy Birthday!
  12. Haven't seen your log for awhile Michael. She's looking beautiful. Will be quite a showpiece when you're done.
  13. Very nice to have new members building French models, especially of this quality. wonderful work!
  14. Lovely work. Is that the Dr. Mike method of hull construction? It certainly is very different than some plank on frame models done here but gives excellent results.
  15. Thank you for sharing your work with us, Dali. Your craftsmanship is wonderful!

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