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About dvm27

  • Birthday 04/05/1954

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Baltimore, MD
  • Interests
    17th and 18th century naval architecture

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  1. Great Swopem Mark! One of the models in the Kreigstein book has all the external planking scored onto the solid hull. The skill to execute that boggles the mind.
  2. Nice job on those fore cants so far. They are a bear to fair, especially the inner surfaces. I find that drawing lots of pencil lines along the shear helps with the fairing process. Keep remarking the lines during progressive fairings until they all disappear. This will insure you have hit all the low spots and have a fair hull. Work from the fore cants aft and I would recommend you install the first full frames (14) before completing the cant fairing. 80 grit garnet paper and a series of shaped flexible battens with sandpaper glued on really help in this area. Also, those spacers between the
  3. The rafts look terrific Keith! The amount of bright work on this vessel is unbelievable. Keeping it looking good must have occupy a huge part of the crews time.
  4. I look forward to your Build Alex. I recognize one of the models from the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. I think it's one of the most beautiful models in existence. There are many more photos in black and white as well at https://collections.mfa.org/objects/38550
  5. Have you left us HYW? Your initial posts leave us longing for more...
  6. Bob is not mailing these from his basement. Once he receives the order he contacts the distribution center and they in turn fill the order. I suspect distribution and the USPS may be part of the delay during Covid. Before Covid I always received my orders in 2-3 weeks. Order acknowledgements have never been done as far as I can remember.
  7. Here is a link to an article Roger wrote. There are hi-resolution photos and I'm betting you're not going to like what you see. But it's a beautiful model. https://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/BuildingAlert.pdf He also published articles in the NRJ regarding planking and coppering: “Clenched-lap Planking Over a Framed Hull,” Nautical Research Journal, Vol. 44, No. 4; and “Coppering a Clenched-lap Hull”, Nautical Research Journal, Vol. 45, No. 1.
  8. Very nice Toni! I admire your desire to make everything yourself. I might have purchased the copper rivets and roves from Scale Hardware https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/products/rivet-1-8-mm-head-diameter-copper-k109?_pos=4&_sid=f8b163f3f&_ss=r but perhaps they're not small enough.
  9. I've had a couple of slices from my miniature table saw, all the result of poor techniques and not paying close enough attention. Nothing that surgical cement couldn't handle. But I don't think I'll ever get a full sized table saw.
  10. Well done, Toni! That took a lot of guts to do at this point. I've been spending time looking at small contemporary models with square tucks and many of them have the fashion pieces. Something I never noticed until David Antscherl pointed it out.
  11. Yours's is a very labor intensive way of making gratings but the results, especially the round up, is excellent!
  12. Welcome to the "I have knocked off an aft cant with my elbow" club. Your are not the first member of this club! Follow Druxey's advice - a sharp chisel makes all the difference.
  13. Although I've no doubt that you will tweak the design 12.75 times before settling on a a final version I very much enjoy seeing how an architect's mind works. Most of us are happy to achieve something that looks right. You are only happy when the design is not only aesthetically pleasing but actually works from a human perspective.
  14. Much better Stuart! Agree with Druxey about those pesky hawse holes. And that Viagra tool organizer you have should keep them erect.
  15. Not quite sure why you didn't check out the Byrnes drawplate. It is superb and draws down to a #79 drill hole size. Plus it costs less than what you were looking at! https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/drawplate5.html
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