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About dvm27

  • Birthday 04/05/1954

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  • Location
    Baltimore, MD
  • Interests
    17th and 18th century naval architecture

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  1. All of your planking has such sweet curves. Love your use of the thicker batten as a form for the moulding. Such a simple solution to the problem of wavy lines.
  2. Nice job Kevin. That’s a particularly difficult part of the model. Might be worthwhile to mock up the stern lights to make sure each of the spaces are symmetrical. I had an issue here that came back to bite me later. Treating for termites is not something most of us have to worry about!
  3. Wonderful work! Those contrasting chocks really show off your framing skills. Looks like your foremost full frame fays perfectly into the cants.
  4. What Jaeger said. I've been happy with the Lineco line of archival products for philately and will use their neutral pH white glue, diluted for rigging.
  5. Congratulations on the completion of this deck Kevin. Another milestone. The complexity of a build such as this guarantees errors will be made. But it's very complexity makes it difficult for the eye to focus on individual errors. The overall appearance is excellent!
  6. I think you're OK with placing the wale after finishing the framing. The deck margin planks are above the wale so there shouldn't interfere with each other. At least that's the way it is in my version of Hannah.
  7. Beautiful job so far Mike. This was my first scratch built model and it was a lot of fun. Actually my model is a model of Harold Hahn's version in the Washington Navy Yard. For me, the most difficult part of the build (as it was for Hahn as well) was the open bulwarks/margin deck planking arrangement. I found it easier to fit the margin planks before planking the outside of the hull. You're a long way from there but you'll need to give this some thought. As well, Hahn's rigging plans left much to be worked out, especially the falls of numerous lines. I spent hours in the museum copying his rigging. Hopefully, Randy's plans include rigging.
  8. You could always blacken the top. It's authentic and hides a lot of imperfections (I know from experience).
  9. I have done the same Bitao. It will take you less time to reach the same point in the project and you will be happier with the results.
  10. Very nice model, David. Wonderful painting.
  11. If you have cut your fames to the bevel lines before installing them you will have stepping both inside and outside the frames across the hull (depending on the curvature). Apply pencil marks over the inside and outside surfaces of the frames. Start with 80 grit paper, then progressive grits until the pencil lines disappear. Your hull should then be fair. Obviously check the thickness to insure you are on spec.
  12. Just be careful not to over-bevel! If you cross over the bevel line the frames fore and aft of it will also be affected. Personally, I do no beveling until all the frames are installed. If you choose to pre-bevel then perhaps stay 1/16th inch shy of the bevel marks to allow for the inevitable errors that arise when gluing the frames in place.
  13. Beautiful work! For some reason I had a lot of trouble with the foremost full frame (L fore) faying in perfectly with the aft most fore cant 12. I had to remake it several times. I might suggest you temporarily affix the fore cant 12 (two small pinpoints of white glue can easily be dissolved with alcohol later) then seeing how the frame L fore fits on your model.
  14. Nice job Kevin! Do you have the sensitive drilling attachment for the Sherline Mill? It makes drilling small holes in brass a snap.
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