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dvm27

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About dvm27

  • Birthday 04/05/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Baltimore, MD
  • Interests
    17th and 18th century naval architecture

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  1. I can see your work improving as you progress, Kevin. Great job on the bowsprit step. I too still use my Preac saw and it's great for small jobs. Don't know if you ever purchased the motor upgrade but it's fantastic and makes the saw even better. Check out http://shipahoymodels.com/equipmentforsale.htm
  2. Nor is the earth designed for billions upon billions of people depleting its limited resources. There are those that would argue (Hawking amongst them) that the only hope for survival of our species is in space. I can't imagine the world my grandchildren will inherit but it scares the hell out of me.
  3. The framing plan is a rough indication of where things are located but use the sheer plan lofted by David Antscherl for actual locations and heights. All gun and sweep ports, as created by installing the sills, should run in a fair line from fore to aft. Maybe use a thin batten to insure they are all in a fair line.
  4. This looks to be the method Dr. Mike uses for his models. I am happy to see a build log starting at the beginning for this technique.
  5. As Druxey said buy an architects scale on eBay. Using full sized measurements, even if not ones you are familiar with, will eliminate a layer of potential error. After awhile you'll pick up this arcane system of measurement pretty quickly. Plus, when working with full sized numbers an alarm bell will go off in your head when your piece is way too small or large based on an errant calculation you made.
  6. Non-pet owners sometimes have a hard time understanding how deeply we mourn when we lose a pet. Twenty years is a long life for a cat but that does not diminish the loss. Tyra was lucky to have such caring and compassionate owners and I know she lived a wonderful life.
  7. I have the pleasure of owning a copy of Prisoner of War Ship Models by Manfred Stein, While some of them are a bit crude in their appearance others are exquisite works of art. Like Navy Dockyard models many of them were built by committee and by some of the finest craftsmen of their day.
  8. Your setup in the second photo was very informative. Your use of a plywood scrap with a hole drilled acts as a steady rest for the mill and I shall use that in the future for sure!
  9. Well then, you lazy bastard, you've made a great decision! Personally, I'm more excited to see what new and innovative products you come up with like those those little mini-kit lanterns and capstans. Looking forward to seeing you get back to Winnie as well.
  10. People will hate me Chuck but I think you should continue to produce both blocks and rope but increase your product costs to reflect the quality of your product. I get it that ship model makers are notoriously cheap but given the choice between crappy blocks and rope or your products people should be willing to pay more. If not let them shop elsewhere. Decreased sales volume but increased prices should net about the same and you won't be killing yourself to meet demand. You sell Lexus products at Toyota prices in my opinion.
  11. You can turn your hull upside down and place it over a sheet of cardstock or thick paper. Trace the outside profile of the hull onto the paper with a pencil. Cut out the profile, place on the model to insure it matches then draw an offset line to the inside of the cap rail to the required thickness. Works well for me.
  12. Just curious, Don, what scale model are you making? With the Byrnes drawplate I can draw bamboo down to a no. 79 drill bit hole but there is a lot of wastage and a lot depends on the quality of the bamboo. If you're working in 1/4"-1ft scale I should think nos. 70-76 should cover most of your trunnel needs.
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