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Chuck

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About Chuck

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    Rutherford Nj

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  1. So happy to you start this kit...I will be following along. Have fun with it and dont hesitate t0o ask me any questions. Chuck
  2. Nice planking Ryland....only 4 more to go!!! Very precise joints. Its so nice to see so many clean well crafted longboats. Yours is an excellent example. Chuck
  3. For an example.....check out this Victory model which is in a beautiful case with table. If we as ship model builders tried to just buy this case and table for something we built it would cost more than what the model was sold for at auction. This model of Victory with additional cross section...... all cased up sold for just $400. It is a typical kit model nicely made with sails. Probably a Mamoli kit maybe. https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/24092/lot/392/ I do not mean to discourage you, developing a reputation and a following takes time. For example, I was offered $12,000 for my Cheerful not long ago. I didnt sell it however because its something that needs to be used as part of my business. I also sold one of my 1/4" pinnace models and 1/4" longboat models to a collector not long ago. They sold for about $3900 as a pair...all cased up. Not a huge sum but I made several others that I have decided to keep and how many of these can you have laying around. For the past 15 years I have just been giving my models away as I complete them....but my wife and kids want to keep a few of them now. The few models that I have sold were to people who came to me and specifically wanted to buy my model or have me build one for them. This is a very different situation and one I am grateful for. My guess is because I dont have much of a name as a frequent seller of models outside of the few who already know me, if I tried to sell one at a gallery or auction, I would get about $500 as well. Not enough to cover the cost of the case and materials. Unless you get someone who seeks you out personally and realizes the value of of your time and expertise and level of craftsmanship, selling them is hard. It takes work and a lot of time and help to get recognized as a ship model artist that commands decent money for their models. Chuck
  4. It is just like trying to sell your paintings if you are an fine artist. Unless you have a track record of sales no matter what the quality of the art which shows some provenance, and you have a name and some following and notoriety in the industry, your art wont sell for that much. This takes years to develop and usually that means selling through galleries and auction houses. You will sell them at very low prices at first and then if your lucky.....you will gain a reputation and name for yourself and command higher prices. Its hard work to do this of course. I have seen good, master quality ship models sell for $30,000 and up...... and I have seen equally good work sell for $100's of dollars. Mostly because the builder doesnt have the name or reputation that commands higher prices. Its just the way things work. A gallery or good nautical reseller will do whatever they can to inflate your name and reputation so it does get more well known......in order to hopefully raise the asking price to match the quality of craftsmanship. If your work is less than master quality which should be left to others to judge in the industry, then most likely the model will be considered "furniture grade display" like the hundreds of models sold on Ebay and elsewhere. If you google any nautical auctions from various houses that sold models you will see some outstanding work with final sales prices in the hundreds. Some maybe around $1500 - $2000. Most if not all of them are not kits or kit-like. So without a photo it would be very hard to say. But I wish you the very best of luck. These can command a few hundred dollars and maybe a bit more as a decorative item at best. Its a tough racket to break into.
  5. Really nicely done.....very clean work and your care in craftsmanship really shows. The joints are nice and tight .......excellent work.
  6. Its good to see you in the shop again..... Just a little bit each day and soon you will be back with regularity and finishing up the dozen or so models you started...LOL.
  7. That looks great. Keep up the fine work and I look forward to seeing more.
  8. Yes that is common practice. You are absolutely correct. Just to let you know, we (myself included) have opened up dialogue with many of the Chinese manufacturers. Rather than just beat the drum and continue to lock horns with these folks, we are reaching out and trying to encourage the development of new and original works. I would even go as far as to say, that I personally am trying to bridge the gaps between us and work together with some of these guys to encourage new and original designs like this kit. AND to start fresh with new brands in order to highlight the new original stuff is a great start. I know some of these designers first hand and I will tell you that they would rather design stuff that is exciting and fresh and "original" . When I speak with them it is like talking to any kit designer in the west and we have much in common. I am very excited about this kit in particular and even more so with the other new designs in the pipeline from the handful of designers and brands I am trying to work with. Please welcome Trident as one of the more ambitious and hopefully gracious MFGs from China who is actually working hard ...but change is hard.....and I am going to encourage them as much as I can to continue along this path. I will end with one final thought...I abhor the theft of intellectual property and designs and always will. I will do everything I can to bring that practice to an end. Encouraging and developing relationships with designers all over the world will be a positive step in that direction. Promoting these original projects is an important part of that.
  9. I dont know.......I havent used it for very long. Time will tell!!! But I am being very careful to pick wood for planking that is very close in color.
  10. Thanks guys... Interesting about the Alaskan cedar is that like other woods, there are plenty of color variations within a batch of lumber. It was fairly easy for me to select the darker/more tan cedar I used for the wales which incidentally is a near perfect match for boxwood. You would of course need a huge amount in your wood pile to select the tone you wanted. I could have very easily selected that same color I used for the wales for the entire model. But I wanted to use the more traditional and more plentiful lighter and warmer tone which is what most will see when they get this. Chuck
  11. I have finished planking the starboard side up to the sheer. I will start on the port side this weekend. As you can see now, the wales and black strake are much darker than the wood above it. That was done on purpose so I could easily identify the wales when I add the second layer. Having said that, the Alaskan Yellow cedar is really nice stuff for working this large. I like the color and its easy to work with. This is the largest model ship I have seen made from Yellow cedar. This will be a great test of how versatile and useful it is for ship modeling. Chuck
  12. No I dont sell the wood or have any of that material. Its pretty impossible to import other than by commisioning the cnc carvings. Damn near impossible to import raw wood from China.
  13. As good as your first version looked, this one is even better. It really looks clean and well crafted.
  14. Neither...They are some weird Asian Boxwood. Its what they use to make all of the little carved sculptures you can buy on the web. It has no grain pattern at all and carves like butter. But it is more yellow than Castello or even European box.

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