Ken Bartley

Couldn't help myself. Had a quick look, no more the 5 or 10 minutes. Outstanding Daniel! Like Nigel stated the wood is excellent quality, true and square,no flaking and a constant colour. Wanted to see what the laser carving details were like, very fine and sharpe. Not yet see deck,but think that the laser etching will make effective caulking. Also want to see gratings,thought I might have to replace these again they are excellent. Got to put it away now and make a living! My intention are to buy a decent bottle of wine and have a good examination Friday evening. Regards Ken

Just arrived!Thank you. Will not get a chance to open and examine contents till Friday evening. Excellent service.

Just sent my payment for order. Looking forward to seeing the kit in the flesh (or should that be wood). Will give my comment once arrived. Ken

Afternoon Daniel. Can I ask what scale you are think off. Ken

Evening all,I built the Billings Statenjacht about thirty five years ago. All carving done by hand in a terrible soft wood. I used a Chinese calendar for the second planking! Billings were the only kits readily available at the time. Don't think they have improved much. Also you worked very much alone in these days, limited contact with fellow model makers and limited rescorses. Now we can even talk to the manufacture direct. I think Daniel has a great future, so many interesting ideas. Also the use of resin I think this is the way forward. Ken

Afternoon Daniel, all three excellent choices. Can I suggest Statenjacht if you do get to designing it to a large scale. At least 1/48 scale. Like Nigel it will be a couple of years probably before I can start the Nuestra Senora. But it will be nice to drool over the kit! Ken

Evening Daniel,finally succeeded in ordering the kit and received email confirmation. What are you planing next? Each kit seems to be more ambitious than the last. Keep up the good work and all the best in your venture. Ken

Afternoon Daniel. Ordered kit Saturday morning. The lanterns look like they could be interesting to form. Can I ask how joined them on the prototype.Will I have to brush up on my soldering skills! Ken

I use Xuron cutters. I have several types for cutting brass etch etc. One type is made to cut Kevlar tread, I find these ideal for cutting tread, never have frayed ends with these. Xuron range are very fine tools but expensive!

I use Wilkos own brand wood filler. Either in a tub or tube ,its brown in colour. You can get different brands that do different shades of wood. Very easy to use and to sand down. Milliput is far to hard in my view for filling wood. Hope this helps.

Hello Jeff,

Just spent the last couple of months coppering Caldercrafts HMS Diana. I used various tools to cut the plates. Small tin snips both curved and stright. I also cut them use a heavy duty knife. The trick is to use a safety rule (the make of mine is Maun) .For best results I used it near to the end of the rule as possible and press down firmly. Make several cuts . I then finish off with sanding sticks. Another useful tool while coppering is an abreshive pencil. This gets rid of any residue glue. Hope this helps.

Ken

The pedestals are pre drilled. Ill check later i think its 5 or 6 mm. I normally drill a hole up through the the keel to accept threaded studding say about 4mm . I trap a nut half way up the keel in to which the thread screws. Another hole is drilled into the base and a second nut (counter bored) locks everything in place. Hope this makes sence!

I used the turned brass pederstals.

Getting back to your build two things. Have you decided how you are going to display your build. No poblem if you use a cradle stand but if you are going to use brass pedastals you will need to consider drilling into the keel for threaded studing etc. Also you might want to paint or staint the frames in way of the rear gun ports under the stern deck. Nothing looks worse that seeing white frames through gun ports. I know this from past experence. Hope this helps.

Are you surprised in the interest about the base? I normally use MDF and constantly make changes thoughout the build. Can the material be tapped for bolts?

I don't think anybody here wants to distract from your excellent build, but your base board seems to be generating alot of intereset. I always give a lot of thought to the building board. A sloted fixure to hold the stem at 90 degrees and also triangular fillets to hold everthing nice and square all these fixtures could be adjustable and removeable with your system of slots and bolts. Back to your build I now its a little bit early in to the build, any ideas how your going to finish the castings(carvings) Most builders me included painted these. But it might make your build a bit different and proable more historical correct if your tried to paint them in a natural wood finsh.

Used the same material when building submarines years ago . Its very dense , used instead of lead for radio active shielding! Might have want to think about producing the build board for the model boat market.

Can I ask what is you building board is made of. A very nice kit. It was my last build. Took 4 years. Youl will have fun building it.

Caldercraft Diane, adout 4 years in so far. Only work at weekends and holidays.One of the older Caldercaft kits but still very nice kit. You should start a build log, will look up Emma'a Baltimore to get an idea what your building.

Yes not too far away. Can I ask what you intend to build?

Hi Tony,

Miskin models. Set of 12 scew clamps £10.95 although at the moment they are out of stock. Excellent item I usually predrill the the hole first.

Ken