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  1. I tried something very similar to this, but the problem is the sheave just spins when I try to drill the hole. The cutout in the stock keeps it centered, but the sheave isn't actually clamped, and it's too small to get a clamp securely on it.
  2. I just did this yesterday, based on wefalck's similar advice. It came out ok and functional. The biggest problem I had was both clamping and centering the sheave for drilling the hole. I have no clamp that can hold it well nor get proper purchase, as well as keep the drill bit perfectly centered. I have one of those small desk vices, that I just tilted at 90 degrees and carefully positioned under my Dremel drill press. The result was my hole came out slightly off centered and at a tiny angle. It's barely enough to be noticeable, but it's enough to stop the sheave from freely turning. However, even stationary, it's still far less friction than a plain wooden kit block. Does anyone know how I could reliably drill better centered holes on such a small scale?
  3. Thanks for the advice. For this model, I'm probably just going to make two. Maybe another 2 or 3 if I decide to add proper rigging to main boom.
  4. I'm estimating the sheave size, as the kit plans don't show them. My kit is Corel's 1:25 Chesapeake Flattie. From the schematic, the block's overall dimensions I estimate are 3mm x 3mm x 4mm, which is pretty close to the small single-hole block provided in the kit.
  5. Interesting. I have both a Dremel and a cordless drill. I even have a Dremel attachment for using it as a drill press that can be mounted horizontally for use as a grinding station. However, I'm still not sure I could pull off that size of sheave. It would need to be not much more than 1mm-1.5mm in thickness but the smallest needle file I have is 2mm.
  6. Thanks for the log. I've only found this one online store selling sheaves, and their smallest is a tad bigger than what I need, but I might be able to make do. I don't have a lathe, and really don't want to buy one to make my own.
  7. Does anyone know where I could find or how I could make a sheave for a functional block? I'm trying to rig an RC model to use working blocks for use with the running sheets, but I'm using the blocks that came with the kit, which are little more than a piece of wood with a hole drilled into it. I've tried to sand it down and enlarge the hole to make it look more realistic and have less friction on the line, but it's still not adequate and routinely kinks up. I'd like to make a true functioning block with a turning sheave inside it, but I'm not sure how to make one on my model's 1:25 scale. I know how to fashion the wooden part and the axle, but the sheave would be about 1mm thick with a diameter of about 2mm, and I don't know how I could make anything that small with enough precision to be useful.
  8. Looks really great. The custom winch mount is clever. Do you have any sensors to detect full extension and retraction, or do you let it stall out?
  9. Thanks for the advice. I kept the deck, and finished the painting, weathering, and rigging.
  10. I can attest to this. The Corel Chesapeake Flattie was my first kit. The materials are ok-ish. No dowels. The instructions said to sand all the spars and mast from square planks, which seems insanely tedious and unnecessary to me considering dowels are dirt cheap and can be bought anywhere, but I'm not sure if that's a prevalent practice among kits. The false deck planks didn't fit the keel, and I had to use a considerable amount of filler. Some planks were distorted or cracked, but most were good. It came with four highly detailed posters of the model in scale, but the instructions were god awful, and were more generally vague advice in broken English. Aside from the box photo and a muddled part on one of the posters, there's no guidance at all on the rigging. Fortunately, a few other users have built this model, and I've been able to use their photos as reference for how to rig it. That said, the kit was still overall enjoyable to assemble, but it was more a puzzle than a kit.
  11. The pieces came in a Corel kit, and the instructions say they're brass, but it wouldn't be the first time Corel instructions were wrong. The pieces changed color very slightly after I sanding them down, but only in tiny pin pricks, so it's possible I just didn't sand enough. I tried soaking a piece in acetone, washing it off, and then putting it in the solution, but that didn't have any effect. The patina solution (brand is "Bead Buddy") says it should work for copper, brass, silver, aluminum and bronze, but maybe it's just a bad solution?
  12. Mostly finished painting. I really don't like how the deck planking turned out. Is there anything I can do to fix it, or should I just paint the deck white?
  13. I have some brass rings that came with my model kit, and I'm trying to use a patina solution to darken and age them. The instructions say to mix 1 tbsp with 1 cup of water, but after an hour of soaking, the brass (which I cleaned with alcohol first) was unaltered. Is it possible the brass was cut from a wire that came with a clear protective coating on it? If so, what's the best way to remove this? I tried using steel wool to sand it off, but after an additional soaking, it had little effect.

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