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  1. It's brand new Bondo resin I bought last week at a local hardware store. I'm pretty sure I just didn't mix thoroughly. I also used it to coat the inside of my hull and that cured perfectly.
  2. Yeah, that seems to have mostly done it. Although a side effect seems to be it caused gas or water vapor to be emitted from the wood underneath, and that caused a lot of bubbling and even some detachment of filler between the wood and the resin, so I'm likely going to have to sand off most of the resin and re-fill.
  3. I coated my hull with polyester resin. The container said it should completely cure and be dry to the touch in 2 hours, but after 2 days it still has wet/tacky spots, although most is completely dry. The instructions said 1 ounce of resin for every 10 drops of hardener, and I followed that explicitly, but I guess I didn't mix it well enough. What can I do to fix this and get everything dry? I still need to do a little sanding, and can't do that if it's still gunky. Should I wash it with acetone to dissolve the uncured resin, or wash it with hardener to try and cure the remaining unmixed portion?
  4. I'm preparing to seal up the exterior hull for a wooden kit that I'm building as an RC model. I've heard some people coat the exterior hull in Bondo's fiberglass resin, which despite the name isn't resin mixed with fiberglass, but resin applied to a fiberglass mat that's then afixed to a surface. I bought some, but the fiberglass mat is 0.2mm thick, which is far too bulky. Does anyone just apply the resin without the fiberglass? My hull is only about 16 inches long, so it's fairly small, and probably doesn't need the extra reinforcement that the fiberglass provides. Is the plain resin too brittle and weak or will it work just fine without the fiberglass?
  5. So I ordered some sheaves from Cast Your Anchor, in Toronto. The whole experience reaffirms why I hate buying from small shops, especially outside the US. Their website is a trainwreck, but I managed to place the order. Yet two weeks later, no order confirmation, no shipping confirmation. Doesn't respond to emails. This is why Amazon's eating everyone's lunch. They're the only ones who have figured out how to properly communicate and ship products to customers efficiently.
  6. What's the policy on build logs for kits from these manufacturers? It's unclear if the Spray is pirated, but if your policy is that that doesn't matter because YQ has been banned in general, does that mean I can't post a build log for my Spray? Whether I build the kit or throw it out, China has my money, so I might as well build it, but I can understand not wanting to give YQ free advertising. If it's not a kit copy, but just using pirated plans and the kit itself is original, I'd gladly buy a copy of the original plans to compensate the proper designer, if we can determine who that is. I bought the kit in good faith, and wouldn't have done so if I knew it was coming from a suspect source.
  7. I didn't realize there are company's that produce kit plans but not the kits themselves. Do you have any idea who the original author of the Spray plans might be?
  8. Interesting. That thought crossed my mine, but I didn't think anything like that was sold, much less what it's name would be. I found this on Amazon, but it doesn't explicitly mention any diameters. It just says it's for clocks "0.2 MM Upto 4.0 MM". Is that the outside or inside diameter?
  9. I understand. But like I said, I want to support the original kit designer. When I Google "spray model sailboat kit", the only companies that come up are Bluejacket and Yaun Qing, and their kits are definitely different. Who else is making a kit for the Spray?
  10. Ok, I just want to make sure this is a pirated kit and we're not just branding all Chinese companies as pirates. Many companies in China do this, but not all. How did you determine their kits for the Royal Caroline and San Felipe are pirated? Which company's kits are they an exact copy from? I found one of their listings on Ebay for the San Felipe but it doesn't show any plans.
  11. Yeah, I noticed Bluejacket's page too. I don't think it's the same. This is an example of the YaunQing kit. Bluejacket's schematics are black and white, not color. The YuanQing kit also appears very differently designed, and has the door on the rear deck house offset, whereas the Bluejacket kit has the doors on both deckhouses on the centerline. The Bluejacket kit also puts the helm a little farther forward, whereas YuanQing puts it almost on the transom. The laser cut pieces are also different. Bluejacket's keel is one piece whereas YaunQing's in in several that lock together, and are made of two different types of wood, a lighter one on the inside, and a darker type for the outside. The keel is also much thicker, and has additional braces, requiring the bulkheads to have deeper slots. YaunQing's dowels are also all pre-tapered whereas Bluejackets require tapering. YangQing provides a single top deck with laser-etched false planks, whereas Bluejacket provides a false deck with separate laser cut individual planks to apply over the false deck.
  12. I'd ask in the banned kit thread, but it's been locked, so I'm opening a new thread. I recently bought a very nice kit of the Spray from a Chinese company called "YaunQing ShipModel". I'm no kit expert, but I've tried kits from Corel, Artesania Latina, Model Shipways and OcCre, and this kit is by far the best in my admittedly limited experience. Nearly all the pieces are laser cut and fit together very well and most pieces are even numbered. It comes with a ton of metal fittings. The wood quality seems very nice. It came with two large double sided color posters with detailed photos of each step of construction and close up shots of the finished model showing the rigging. The main caveat so far is that the instructions are all in Chinese, but that shouldn't be too much of a problem since the photos are pretty thorough. Then I saw the list of banned companies who have been deemed pirates. I don't see YuanQing listed there, but I do see one called "YQ". Are these the same? If so, may I know why? What is the original company/kit that YQ stole it from? It's too late to get a refund on this kit, but if it was pirated, I'd like to support the proper company in the future. I'm no expert on piracy, but usually pirates produce low quality knock offs, so I have a hard time believing that this kit can be higher quality than most but also be pirated. On a side note, you may also want to update that list to use the company's full name instead of abbreviations (or maybe even list them both) since new forum users like myself may not know all the insider lingo and will give these companies their money unknowingly even if we've already seen the list.
  13. That's an interesting idea. You're right, clamping the pre-cut rod would be a lot easier than clamping a tiny sliver.
  14. I tried something very similar to this, but the problem is the sheave just spins when I try to drill the hole. The cutout in the stock keeps it centered, but the sheave isn't actually clamped, and it's too small to get a clamp securely on it.

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