Brian Falke

All major beams for the Berthing Deck are fitted. I initially planned on keeping them in place as I installed the Orlop Deck bulkheads but quickly realized that would be too challenging. So I place a small mark on each side to mark the location of the beam, numbered each beam, 1 being the most forward beam and removed them all, including the centerline stringer (which was temporary anyway). Prior to removing all beams. After removal, I painted them for final installation. But before moving forward with re-installing the beams, I laid base board along the interior of the Orlop Deck bulkheads to glue the bulkheads to. This is the Aft portion of the Orlop Deck: And this is the forward portion of the Orlop Deck with the first beam reinstalled and the first bulkhead fitted. Prior to final installation of the bulkheads, they will be painted and doors installed. My plan is to work from the most forward part aft until the last bulkhead of the forward section is complete, then shift to the most aft bulkhead and work forward until that section is complete. Then I will determine if I want figurines or not (not having much success in that) and lay the cable in coils on the cable deck and place a spare anchor against the starboard hull.

I replace the stringer (?) from the post above to something more substantial and pinned it into the most forward and aft beams. In the below picture, you can see where I marked off each beam and the centerline. This aids in ensuring I get the beams spaced appropriately and centered side-to-side. The first three are in. Once all major beams are in, I will continue finishing up the Orlop deck. If you look on the decking for the Orlop deck you can see the pencil lines for the bulkheads. Cheers.

From the last pic to the current, I did make progress - just failed to document here. Using the method I described above (November 28th post), I was able to install all cross beams and hatches. Prior to laying the deck, I outfitted her with a full complement of stores. The casks are 3D printed (could not find the correct sizes) casks. Here is a picture of the different types. And with all beams and casks in place: Using .03in thick by .06in wide white pine, I commenced planking the Orlop deck. The black between the planks is permanent marker. The section amidships is the cable tier. I researched and researched how that was in 1812 and found nothing, or scarcely nothing. So, I suspect that stores were in the hold below the cable tier deck and those sections could be removed for access to the hold. I installed the cable tier deck on the starboard side and left the larboard side open to the hold. The small section against the hull is the carpenters walk, which will be planked as the rest of the deck. And this is the finished Orlop deck looking forward and aft: After completing the deck, the next step was to install the coamings and gratings for the hold access. Because the BJ kit does not include the parts for the Orlop (only Gun and Spar decks), I researched other model parts providers and found 1:72 scale gratings at drydockmodelsandparts.com. Their actual thickness is .03in, which comes to 3 inches at 1:96 scale. I really do not think anyone will be able to see a .01 difference. Here is the forward hold coaming and grating: After installing all coamings and gratings, I am at a decision point. Should I move onto the Berth deck framing, or continue with the Orlop deck knowing that what I install may have to be adjusted due to the Berth deck beams. I moved onto the Berth Deck beams and will install the finishing touches (figurines (still debating this one), bulkheads, doors, anchor cable, spare anchor, etc.). So, moving forward, I installed the aft and forward most beams. Using basically the same method for installing the Orlop beams, I placed a stringer (?) forward to aft to guide me in the installation. Here is where I am today: The cross beams will go on top of the stringers along the starboard and larboard sides and under the centerline stringer. Cheers, Brian

Yes, the 1:72 gratings. This is how mine came out.

I am back. The construction project (Sunroom) is, for the most part, complete and I can now refocus on the Connie. Looking back to the last picture, I have some work to do on updating those. The orlop decking is complete and I am in the process of installing the gratings and coamings on the deck.

@Avi I found .03 thick gratings (1:72 scale) from drydockmodelsandparts.com. That, on a 1:96 scale, comes to 3 inches, which is pretty dang close to accurate, and the "holes" are square. They are made from boxwood so they can be sanded, stained and varnished to your liking.

Thanks Frank! Unfortunately, I have been preoccupied with a larger construction project which has taken me away from ship building. I do hope to get back to Connie in a couple of months. Thanks for following.

Shipyard all clean and organized...at least to the point where I can continue working on the ship. In the below picture, you will notice I removed a section of the ballast (blue arrow). That was because I was using the Pook's drawings from 1849. It had chain and shot lockers there, So, I removed them before doing a little more research on the drawings. Those were in preparation for Constitutions Mediterranean cruise and not representative of the Orlop deck of 1812. So, I will have to put the ballast back in there. Additionally, I last left off that I was moving onto the casks. Kind of got ahead of myself there. I stepped back and determined my next move would be to install the orlop deck beams. That did prove challenging. I initially had the most forward and aft beam installed. From the aft I moved forward using Marquarot's book to measure space between the beams and height above the bilge. The red arrows is where, using that method the beams were. Once I installed them, I decided to validate by measuring from the top rail down. As you can see, the Orlop deck beams were a little too high. I removed them. In addition to being too high, I found that I had a "wave" of sorts. One side of a beam would be higher than the other, and this carried onto the subsequent beams. The challenge I face was how to install the beams so they were level athwart ships and with the forward and after beams. I meticulously re-did the most aft beam and the most forward beam just aft of the most forward part of the top rail. When I had those positioned I glued two square pieces of stock (green arrows) to each beam as far to each side as possible. This allowed me to use them as a consistent guide, level side to side and forward and aft. The picture shows going from aft forward. I followed the same process forward aft.

Commenced the Hold and Orlop deck. At this point, have 5 beams for the Orlop deck and the ballast. I found small gravel, which at scale came out to about 1' boulders. Filling in the hold area with the grave level to the keel, I then used diluted wood glue to set them. Next is to start with the casks (which I made using the 3D printer). But, before I move onto the casks, I do need to field day the shipyard. Getting a little out of control.

Thanks for the tip @MrBlueJacket. I did consider that, especially after trying to glue them on with superglue, then the glue I used for the plate, then JB Weld metal glue. I ended up attaching each gudgeon separately and while attaching one, I would detach another. It became quite frustrating. My last option was to use JB Weld Superweld glue. This allowed me to patiently position the piece, then apply the glue, make any final adjustments and then with the ultraviolet light, cure the glue without disturbing the previously positioned gudgeons. Here are the gudgeons without the hull bands attached yet. Using the same glue, JB Weld Superweld, I attached the bands. Here is the final. Now that the rudder is attached, I have mounted the model on a temporary base with the pedestals. I would post a picture, but embarassingly, I mounted the ship backwards. Once I turn the ship around, will commence on the Hold and Orlop deck. Cheers

I have finally completed the coppering of the underwater hull. I did overlap from bottom aft, to forward and then up. After attaching all plates, I again went over the entire copper platting with the roller to ensure no corners were bent up or out. I applied two coats of satin polyurethane. Overall, it came out very nice. And, for the most part the hull painting is complete as well. I think I did that 3 times. Just was never satisfied with the results. My next move is to ship the rudder. I do feel the gap for the pintels and gudgeons are too narrow. I was able to "convince" the pintels to fit onto the rudder. However the gudgeons is a different story. I did read on another build log that the builder ordered smaller sized pintels and gudgeons which could be manipulated more easily to fit the rudder and sternpost. I am taking a different approach. If it does not work out, then I will order the smaller size. The first picture is the gudgeon on the sternpost. As you can see, it will not fit, too narrow thus leaving a gap where gudgeon does not meet flush with the sternpost. I have cut the two bands that attach the gudgeon to the hull and then will attach just the gudgeon to the aft portion of the sternpost. After the glue has cured, I intend to then attach the bands to the side of the gudgeon and the hull to appear as if it is one piece. The blue line is where I cut the bands off of the gudgeon. I saved them as I will be using them. To install the gudgeons, I have them on the pintles with the rudder upside down. I will then turn the hull upside down and then place the rudder in its proper position, clamp it, and then glue the gudgeon to the sternpost. Once the glue has cured, remove the rudder and then attach the bands and file to appear as if it was never cut. If this does not work, then I am back to where others were, buying the smaller pintles and gudgeons. After installing the rudder, I will move onto the false keel. My plan is to complete all underwater hull work and then mount the model on the pedestals to work on the interior, starting with the hold. Cheers, Brian

Got a question to all regarding the actual coppering on the current CONSTITUTION. Why are the plates overlapping with the lower plate overlapping the higher plate? If you look at the plate that was removed in the attached picture, you can clearly see the non-weathered line across the upper plates and the aft plate. I have looked at pictures of the most recent drydocking and the plates are being installed from the waterlline down to the keel. I am just curious. The method in the instruction book, aft-forward, keel - waterline makes perfect sense when you envision the ship moving through the water.

I have started the long and tedious process of coppering the underwater hull. I quickly learned that patience, a steady hand, and the right tools are key in making the coppering look good. I am using LOCTITE Extreme Glue as the adhesive. It provides an excellent bond additionally, allows me to reposition the plate up to about 5 minutes after attaching to the hull. I place a small drop on the hull where the plate will go and then using the stainless steel tool next to the roller I spread the glue to a thin coat. There will be excess glue on the tool so a small cup of mineral spirits is necessary to keep the tool clean. After spreading, I place the tool end in the cup of mineral spirits to clean (just let it sit in there). I then attach the copper plate to the hull. This is where a clean tool is necessary. Using my left thumb I gently roll on to the leading edge of the copper plate to hold it steady. Using the tool, I then press the plate down on to the hull. After that, using the same tool, I would nudge the plate slightly into it's final position to dry. After a group of plates have set for about 5 minutes, I then use the small roller to firmly press the plates onto the hull to achieve a "smooth" appearance. I have elected to overlap the plates, so they will not be perfectly smooth. I have just done the keel and two plates on the side. You will notice that the sides of the plates that are attached to the keel from about mid-ships forward are not bent around the sides. I found that trying to bend the sides upward caused the plate to shift and bend at the bottom of the keel. Allowing the glue to dry and then bend the plate works great. No shifting and no bending of the plate at the bottom. I started at the sternpost, and following the directions in the book, I am moving forward and up. I have placed the plates along the entire keel bottom and up the bow. A lesson learned here. I should have stopped coppering the keel at the point where the keel transitions to the bow stem. The plates at the bow stem should overlap those plates that are attached to the hull. If you imagine the ship moving through the water, the leading edge of the forward most plates on the hull need to be covered by the plates on the bow stem or they would eventually rip off the ship due to the water flow.

I have seen a lot of discussion on the site concerning the rudder and the pintles. Specifically, around the leading edge of the rudder. The first is, should it be square as depicted on page 16 or rounded as depicted on page 19? Also, should the pintles be "countersunk" into the leading edge of the rudder (as shown on page 19) or not? Using the details on page 19, I have decided that the leading edge should be rounded and the pintles countersunk so that the rudder is as close as possible to the sternpost. Using a table scroll saw I cut out the six notches for the pintle to sit in. Since I will be coppering the hull and rudder, I am not to concerned with smoothness of the rudder.

So, I know I said that I was moving on to coppering the hull...but, a new toy (read tool) came in and just had to use it. An airbrush. I will admit to everyone here that I am not the best at brush painting and find it very frustrating at times. So much so, that it will take quite a few coats for me to be satisfied. With airbrush, it was two coats and I was extremely satisfied. The pictures here are just primer, not the final. I will be adding the beading (which came in yesterday) on the hull, prime them and then paint. Then I will copper the underwater hull. If you look closely, you can see black dots just below the black paint line. Those mark the water line. I did struggle finding a way to raise the bow 1/4" and keep the ship plumb. I was finally able to glue together a 1/2" block and a 1/4" block with side support where the keel would snugly fit in so that the ship was plumb. The 1/2" block was used to raise and support the bow and the 1/4" was used to raise and support the stern section. Using the hull marker that I used to mark the gun ports, I set it to 3" and marked a tick with a sharpie along the port and starboard sides. I used the blue painters tape to get the paint lines and to prevent overspray.