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    Semora, NC

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  1. I think body filler/putty should work fine for the larger flaws and CA can take care of the smaller stuff that is too big to sand out. As far as the anchor goes, what do the plans say about where it goes and does it get lashed to something? If so, it might not be a bad idea to show the stock in the "folded " position since that would have been the most space-saving.
  2. Beautiful job!!! I'm thinking about this kit for my first RC build. I know that your build is not RC but since you have the only build log on this kit so far do you have any thoughts about the quality of the instructions with regard to installing RC gear? Once again, great job!
  3. I don't hesitate to recommend this kit if you are interested. It's big enough to detail but its relatively short height means you don't need a piece of furniture to case it. You can put on as much or as little rigging as you want but all of it is easier than sailing ship rigging. Overall a very enjoyable build.
  4. Gun tackles Since 9 pounder guns at 1:96 scale are really small I debated leaving the in (out?) haul tackles off since I could not find workable blocks that would look to scale. Model Expo sells 2.5mm and 2 mm blocks. cdrusn89 used the 2.5 mm blocks which you can see near the bottom of the first page of his CONFEDERACY build log and did a great job with them but 2.5mm is still too big for my needs so I bought some of the 2 mm blocks. They are very nice to look at - the shape is good and there is even a groove machined in their sides for stropping. Unfortunately in a case of taking
  5. Wonderful job on that flag! For folding it you may find that 2 dowels of different sizes will help get realistic "curls" with the size of the curls getting progressively smaller as you work your way away from the upper, inboard corner toward the lower, outboard corner (assuming you want it to look like there is a little breeze - in a dead calm the folds would be more equal). If you look at the online instructions for the Brig Syren on the the Model Expo site, the last page of the last chapter has a great pix of a very realistic looking flag. I used that method for the flag on my Olympia b
  6. Wow, you have made great progress since the last time I checked in! I'm impressed with your copper plating - that is something I have not tried yet.
  7. Installing the guns and their breeching lines After too many days of tedium with tweezers, all the guns are in place. I used a little jig to get the loop centered and the lengths equal; I still have to do the in-haul tackles but before I take on working with 80 small blocks I’m going to take a break and work on some deck furniture.
  8. Attaching the Channels I departed from the instructions about when to file the openings for the chains/deadeyes. The instructions call for attaching the channels but not opening up the locations for the deadeyes until the masts are stepped. Given that when all the deadeyes are in place it will be pretty crowded on most of the channels which will leave little flexibility in adjusting the position of the deadeyes I thought it would be better to cut the openings now, then using a mast rake jig to determine where the forward-most shroud needs to come down to be vertical and then attach
  9. Great Cabin details Since the cabin will be somewhat visible with reduced deck planking I thought it needed a little attention so I added the parquet floor, bench/storage lockers, and the captain’s head since this ship does not have quarter galleries.
  10. Thanks! Compliments coming from someone with your skill means a lot. Not just modeling skill either - your photos are top notch. Not sure what my problem is but when I looked at the last photo above I though "how could I get that chestree so crooked?" But when I went to fix it it is on nice and straight and parallel to the gun port. Strange. Maybe it's related to the Coriolis effect.
  11. Transom finished The final details on the transom are in place including the wings and the adjacent fashion pieces, the trim on top of the counter and the britannia eagle and stars. The top edge still needs thickening but I can’t do that until the deck planking is in place. Other exterior details include the sea steps per the plans. The fenders and chestrees are not on the plans but I’ve seen them on just about every model of contemporary ships so I added them.
  12. Transom (cont.) Well my mortice work did not work out, when I glued the PE in place the mortices did not line up with where the posts needed to go - I figured out that the windows are not centered on the PE, they are not off by much but enough that I had to re-do the mortices so I put them on a piece of strip wood and secured that to the deck. The next problem was how to figure out how long to cut the posts and to make the tops a level despite the aftward slant of the posts. According to the plans the railings on the sides of the quarterdeck are 9/32” high,
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