CommodoreErie
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aaronc reacted to a post in a topic:
Grand Banks Dory by CommodoreErie - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
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aaronc reacted to a post in a topic:
Grand Banks Dory by CommodoreErie - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
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Norwegian Sailing Pram by CommodoreErie - Model Shipways - 1:12
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Norwegian Sailing Pram by CommodoreErie - Model Shipways - 1:12
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Okay, I promise this is still being worked on. Summer was very hectic for me, and I somehow acquired an actual boat (an 18' Dunphy seagull, for the curious), so this kind of fell by the wayside. That said, I'm working on getting the rudder attached, or at least in a condition that I can attach it when ready. I found the laser etched brass straps for the pintels are a touch shorter than I would like, but I can still make them work. I did have one fly off my tweezers while I was trying to attach it, so now I'm in a waiting game for replacement parts because I doubt I'm finding a piece that small in my den. Pintel pins are cut and ready to glue, and the lower gudgeon in attached. Need to attach and drill the upper one.
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SiriusVoyager reacted to a post in a topic:
Norwegian Sailing Pram by CommodoreErie - Model Shipways - 1:12
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Norwegian Sailing Pram by CommodoreErie - Model Shipways - 1:12
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Sorry for the long wait on updates. I got the soleboards and thwarts attached. I'm not 100% happy with how the outboard edges of the soleboards panned out, but I'm satisfied enough with it.
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I ended up changing out the nails that were supplied with the kit, since they're a bit too large (at least to my eye). Fortunately, I had a number of smaller brass nails from a previous failed kit, so I can use those now. They work pretty well. First picture is the backstay plate secured with the supplied nails, second is secured with the replacement pins. These work out great for the oarlock pads too.
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I'm still working on the sole boards, but a miscalculation led to some screw ups, and now I'm waiting on replacement parts. In the meantime, I'm moving onto some brass fittings. Currently I have the anchor point for the forestay attached. Took me four tries because I kept dropping the pipe cutoff and losing it in the carpet, so I'm happy there's so much extra. These pieces are held in place using CA glue as opposed to wood glue. Works pretty well. Semi-related pro tip, if you need to polish brass but don't have the right chemicals for it, toothpaste works in a pinch.
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I was going to leave them unfinished as is. I kind of like the look of them that way. Obviously if I was going full scale, I'd varnish them or something, but this works for the model.
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After sole boards and stern sheets installed. If you look closely enough, the sole boards aren't exactly even on the edges, but they pass well enough at first glance. Still, not terrible for shaping these by hand.
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Apologies for the LONG delay in updating, I've been in California for the past two months. I got the interior painted, just need to do some touch ups on the hull. I also used some brass paint on the bottom of the skeg fin and bilge keels to mimic weather strips.
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Primer applied and the outside of the hull painted. Interior will be copper red.
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Took a while, but I got the rest of the thwarts fitted. I had to request some replacement parts from Model Expo (the knees were miscut) which took a little time. I also made a cover for the daggerboard case, which turned out rather well. Now that the thwarts are fitted, I can take them off and paint the hull. I'm doing dull red for the interior and warm white for the exterior. I also picked up some metallic brass to paint the bottom of the bilge keels, mimicking weather strips.
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Sorry about the hiatus, I've been on the tall ship LYNX for the past month and just got home yesterday. So, back to work. I got the slots for the stay plates cut, and fit the fore thwart. I like to think I learned a trick or two from the dory build, because I wasn't entirely happy with how those turned out, but I'm MUCH more please with this one.
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Lot of stuff in one here. I got the gudgeon cut and attached, I unglued and reglued the skeg to make it more center, I lowered thwart frames B slightly, and I attached the floorboard cleats. For the measurements for those, I started with two each of 2 7/8", 2 3/4", and 1 7/16" and filed down to size from there. I had hoped to the slots cut for the backstays before I have to set the model down for a bit (long story short, I'll be on the tall ship LYNX for a month and won't be around to work on the pram), but I didn't have the saw blade. I'm hoping I can finish the oarlock pads, and maybe the rub rail. We shall see.
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Still need to put the soleboard cleats on, but things are coming along. I had a little bit of trouble with over-beveling some of the thwart frames, and again, wood putty is my best friend. If you've been following this build, you'll know I had worries about the transom. For a freehand sketch and a LOT of sanding with dull files, I think I did pretty alright. I might see about adjusting the skeg at some point. It's off just slightly enough to bug me. I know, I know, looks right is right, but I think I can make it look better.
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CommodoreErie reacted to a post in a topic:
Norwegian Sailing Pram by CommodoreErie - Model Shipways - 1:12
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CommodoreErie reacted to a post in a topic:
Norwegian Sailing Pram by CommodoreErie - Model Shipways - 1:12
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CommodoreErie reacted to a post in a topic:
Norwegian Sailing Pram by CommodoreErie - Model Shipways - 1:12
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Before I put the thwart supports in, I wanted to jump ahead slightly and work on transoms, since they've been on my mind a fair bit. The bow transom went as well as I expected (that is to say, quite), but I'm hesitant on the stern. As stated earlier in my log, the planks at the stern rose above the line provided where the stern transom would be shaped by around 1/8". Now, my thought is to raise the line by that much, which if my math is correct would equate to having an extra 1.5" of transom if this were full scale, which on the real thing wouldn't matter too much I don't think, but I'm curious how it would look on the model. In any event, I'd welcome any thoughts on how yinz think this idea will work, if it will affect the rudder or anything like that, etc. before I make any cuts and shaping to the stern.
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CommodoreErie reacted to a post in a topic:
Norwegian Sailing Pram by CommodoreErie - Model Shipways - 1:12
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Inwales and stern cleats are installed. The stern cleats gave me a little but of trouble, but nothing too severe. Once I figured out how to clamp them, everything worked out.
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Frames installed. The midship frame went on rather smoothly, the forward two less so. Once again, wood putty is my best friend. As an aside, I need to get better at sanding.
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