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TKAM

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  1.    maddog33 reacted to a post in a topic: 18th Century Armed Longboat by TKAM - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale
  2.    maddog33 reacted to a post in a topic: 18th Century Armed Longboat by TKAM - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale
  3.    maddog33 reacted to a post in a topic: 18th Century Armed Longboat by TKAM - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale
  4.    maddog33 reacted to a post in a topic: 18th Century Armed Longboat by TKAM - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale
  5.    maddog33 reacted to a post in a topic: 18th Century Armed Longboat by TKAM - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale
  6.    maddog33 reacted to a post in a topic: 18th Century Armed Longboat by TKAM - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale
  7.    maddog33 reacted to a post in a topic: 18th Century Armed Longboat by TKAM - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale
  8.    maddog33 reacted to a post in a topic: 18th Century Armed Longboat by TKAM - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale
  9.    maddog33 reacted to a post in a topic: 18th Century Armed Longboat by TKAM - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale
  10.    maddog33 reacted to a post in a topic: 18th Century Armed Longboat by TKAM - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale
  11. TKAM
    Well you can stick a fork in me 'cause I'm done. The acrylic case was constructed by Tap Plastics in San Jose, the base I fashioned from cherry wood and stained with Minwax mahogany.
  12. TKAM
    All 12 oars are finished. Lots and lots and lots of sanding required to get them from square shaped just out of the laser cut sheet to a realistic shape. The practicum is pretty good at explaining how to do this. Red at the paddle end and brown (to simulate a leather sheath) about 1.5 inches from the handle end. Then I wrapped some black cord at the borders of the leather section, this is where the oars would be secured to the oarlocks.
  13. TKAM
    There actually isn't any directions in the practicum for the anchor so I just wrapped some rope around the windlass and seized the end to the anchor, then set the anchor towards the bow as indicated in the box picture.
  14. TKAM
    Anybody know what a triangle link is? On my Rattlesnake plans it shows the longboat being tied down and using triangle links. I've been searching the internet far and wide with no luck.
  15.    TKAM reacted to a post in a topic: Seats of Ease
  16.    TKAM reacted to a post in a topic: Seats of Ease
  17.    TKAM reacted to a post in a topic: Seats of Ease
  18. TKAM
    Looking for some information on what on my Rattlesnake plans call "seats of ease". I do know what they are....ahem....used for, but on the plans all I see is a circle. I'd like to put some detail into this feature if in fact they are something more than just a round thingy to sit on while catching up on reading. Thank you in advance.
  19. TKAM
    Jib rigging complete. This is the last of the running rigging. Small model so not a whole bunch of rigging. If you're going to do this model I highly recommend getting premium blocks and thread, it makes the final product so much better. Chuck Passaro blocks and rigging thread is the way to go. Also added rope coils to the jib in-haul and the boom tie down rig. And of course tied up rope coils for the four belaying points using belaying pins.
  20. TKAM
    Previously fabricated boom and gaff installed. Went pretty smoothly although I did have to trim a bit from the inside of the gaff jaws, I failed to take into account the thickness of the several coats of paint. Once I trimmed a bit it fit nice and snug. I also had to remove the ball cap that I had already glued on. What was I thinking? Instead of simple clove hitches for all the rope connections I did proper stropping (?is that the correct term?) for any rope that connects to the boom or gaff without a block. All four belaying pins are now full so any future rigging will be simply wrapped around bench seats. The jib rigging in particular.
  21. TKAM
    Four belaying pins in total on this boat, for the boom and gaff rigging. I'm leaving them brass. Up until now I've always painted my pins either black or brown. I did some research and: "A belaying pin is a solid metal (brass or bronze) or wooden device used on traditionally rigged sailing vessels to secure lines of running rigging." These are nicely formed and big and I want a little more shiny on this model. So brass it is.
  22. TKAM
    Bowsprit stay. I thought this would be a snap but as soon as I started putting tension on the line the bowsprit started retreating like a turtle's head into his shell. The bowsprit brace and post are way too delicate the way I...ahem...installed them so I needed another way to solidly anchor the bowsprit. I ended up settling on drilling a hole through the bowsprit dowel into the bow post then blackening and inserting a long eye bolt. It's not on the plans but the eye bolt will serve nicely as a fairlead for the traveler ring as the line runs back and gets secured to the bench seat.
  23. TKAM
    Mast forestay.
  24. TKAM
    Working on the mast back stay pendants. For the anchor points down at the cap rail internally stropped blocks are best. I neglected to order the right size so I just modified the large Passaro blocks I have on hand. A hole drilled in the end to accept either an eye or a hook: back stays have eyes where the hook for the chain plate will attach. Those for the boom and gaff will have hooks. Then a hole drilled laterally and a pin inserted to simulate the iron supports running internally.
  25. TKAM
    Shrouds and fore stay installed. I really like the tan rope (.63mm) from Chuck P. It looks extremely realistic but it's tough to cinch down tight. It took me the better part of two hours alternating between the four shrouds tightening a bit here then a bit there. 4 clove hitch knots finish up each deadeye.
  26. TKAM
    Got back to it. Port, starboard, and stern decorations. I used tiny dabs of gel CA for those pieces that were easily placed and tacky white glue for harder pieces and the large stern pieces. The practicum has installing the decorations sometime after installing the chain plate, one of the last structural tasks prior to rigging. I'm not sure why, it's much easier to do it now prior to any rigging. Chain plate and shroud deadeyes installed.
  27. TKAM
    Rub rail installed. I waited three full days for the spray white to dry, no problems.
  28. TKAM
    Mounted the rudder with the provided cast pintles and gudgeons. I had previously spray painted them black. A touch up here and there with brushed on black for any nicks.

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