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t_corret

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Everything posted by t_corret

  1. t_corret
    Bravo!
  2. t_corret
    Have you looked at Dafi's 1/100 Heller Victory build? He has photos-etched chains that he sells. It may work for your build. Wonderful to see what you are working on.
  3. t_corret
    I forget how many "hobbies" there are! I mostly build and paint toy soldiers. One of the first series of fine model kits of tiny men was French, from a company called Historex. The soldiers are 56mm tall when built from a bag of a hundred parts or more, not all of which are used. Historex used white styrene and modelers began making truly expressive and dynamic figures and dioramas. Shep Paine was an American painter and model maker who used Historex as the basis of little gems of model-making. Google should give great images. The liquid sprue super detailing may not represent the wood carving you are so adept at recreating, since most modelers use it for hair and fur. All the best, sir.
  4. t_corret
    Shep Paine and the Historex catalogue recommended making a liquid sprue from plastic shavings and glue. After painting it on and drying, a hot needle or blade could super--detail textures of hair or other finicky effects. Congrats on a wonderful masterpiece!
  5. t_corret
    You may be able to buy it in your favorite fine woodworking shop in the stains and finishes area.
  6. t_corret
    Ditto on the hot water, works a treat on Historex parts.
  7. t_corret
    Tamiya makes a thin flexible masking tape that might be more trouble than it's worth. As long as you continue to paint only one fine edge of color at a time, your results speak for themselves. Wonderful!
  8. t_corret
    When you drop out the color, the precision and delicacy of your painting really shines forth. Bravo!
  9. t_corret
    I doubt my ability to understand what the main issue is, but that has never stopped me yet from talking! Are we seeing a left/right angle deviation on the sides from a dead level waterline base to a centerline perpendicular as you look down the length of the hull from the rear? I would be tempted to use a hairdryer to soften the inside of the sides and clamp them with felt padded clamps (to protect the wonderful paint) to a carefully cut wood block fixed to the deck that would support and allow them to mold to the proper angle. It's tricky but can be done with minimal risk to your work so far. If we are looking at a deviation of port and starboard length from a dead level waterline running longways to a free floating perpendicular at the stern, well you are a master of adding and subtracting small amounts of plastic to this model. A little bit done to each side may be an answer. I will be quiet now.
  10. t_corret
    Wonderful work and great painting!
  11. t_corret
    An English carpenter threatened to sell a t-shirt that said, "I'm doing a Dutchman in the shed."
  12. t_corret
    Even in French Napoleonic uniforms, there was so much variation so rapidly, you can paint what you think is correct, spit in a critic's eye and ask them to prove you wrong. (Though you are too much a gentleman to do so.) Wonderful progress in both life and art!
  13. t_corret
    Staggeringly beautiful.
  14. t_corret
    Breathtaking!
  15. t_corret
    Lovely!
  16. t_corret
    You have made my day. Thank you!
  17. t_corret
    To be remembered in your post is an honor I don't deserve. Thank you.
  18. t_corret
    Have you tried W&N structure gel for your acrylics? You may be able to add with your paint an additional layer of detail. I am not certain how long lasting it would be over plastic, or with the weathering you use. I have used it on early miniatures that were quite plain to build up buttons, braid, and flaps, and it has lasted at least a decade.
  19. t_corret
    That's an old archeological tag that should be nailed over the bed of any digger!
  20. t_corret
    As you know, in historical terms, absence of proof is not proof of absence. You are making informed artistic choices just as the builders did. Nothing you have done looks unlikely, baring some find of a detailed period painting, and provenance of the time, place, and talent of the artist. Keep up the wonderful work.
  21. t_corret
    I am certain you have considered flooding the surface of the wood with CA followed by a spritz of CA accelerator. A light sand for possible raised grain and you should be good. CA sticks to itself pretty well.
  22. t_corret
    Concerning the paint issues, could the artist oils over the much larger area of the hull have had longer to stain and even dry a little more than on that small patch? I use oils on miniature figures and have to adjust my timing moving from larger to smaller figures. It's just a thought, and worth what you paid for it.
  23. t_corret
    Perhaps inset the wing into the freize?

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