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TomRigg

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  1. If you don't cut at position 'Z' in the instructions and loop that through below the fighting top would that do it? Tom
  2. Maybe too late into your build with the masts made up. But looking at the way that machine works could you do both sides at once? E.g. Lower mizzen shrouds onto mizzen mast looped over at the top . Then fix fighting top and topmast. Then repeat for topgallant mast. Tom
  3. If there were more 1/150 scale Napoleonic ships around I'd get them. Then all I'd need is a gymnasium floor and a worthy opponent Tom
  4. Would it be better to drill out the square hole in part 77, glue it vertically over the square peg and then putty the gaps? Might get a stronger joint that way. Tom edit: Would the angles on the flat, mating surface of the bowsprit (parts 50,51) change if you rotated the angle of part 77?
  5. RN practice was to have the wheel forward of the mizzen mast. Mabe they expected their helmsmen to use a little of their experience. Tom
  6. You could try stretched sprue and a piece of suitable diameter rod for the angled bit. As for the bench, I don't think you can go far wrong if you mimic the Bellona book as much as you can now the hull is together. Tom
  7. Beez, Heller supply 32pdr, 18pdr and 8pdr cannon. For my kit I'm butchering the 8pdrs into 32pdr carronades with scratched slides and mounts (can't figure out how to get the slot in them though) In the AotS book HMS Diana, 1:24 scale carronade drawings the barrel scales out to (approx) 400mm at the widest diameter and the 9pdr cannon are about 370mm so 8pdrs cut down are a good enough match for me. Tom
  8. Irrelevant Trivia: I have a copy of the AotS USS Constitution book. There's a 1/150 scale plan on the inside of the fly cover. Place one hull half of Le Superbe on the drawing and guess what? USS Constitution is bigger! Tom
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