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rob444b
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Everything posted by rob444b
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I have been using a "nail drill" I found on Amazon for light duty work and drilling. They are amazing inexpensive (my corded one was $12) and very compact. It has replaced my Dremel for most work It takes a 2/32" shaft so it will NOT work with Dremel accessories. You can buy different grit sanding drums replacements for a few pennies apiece. The advantage is that it is so lightweight and fits well in my hand. It runs at high speed that can be adjusted but does not have too much torque. However for drilling soft wood and sanding it is fine. The Dremel was just too bulky and I was afraid of it crashing into delicate parts. Drill sets made by Arrowmax fit perfectly. I will put down some links below. https://www.amazon.com/COSLUS-Electric-Nail-Drill-Professional/dp/B0DBKQVJHB?pd_rd_w=1M5wm&content-id=amzn1.sym.784113d6-3054-4922-a575-af4720478411&pf_rd_p=784113d6-3054-4922-a575-af4720478411&pf_rd_r=SEF3VZSW9Y2XEN41GG7Y&pd_rd_wg=R2ayK&pd_rd_r=bc4e8325-83aa-44cf-bf42-334b221d64c7&pd_rd_i=B0DBKQVJHB&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_3_t&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/AM-ARROWMAX-0-5mm-2-3mm-Titanium-Drilling/dp/B0D9W89Q4Z?pd_rd_w=cMI2I&content-id=amzn1.sym.784113d6-3054-4922-a575-af4720478411&pf_rd_p=784113d6-3054-4922-a575-af4720478411&pf_rd_r=0WCHT1R72YFC9WGGPJ20&pd_rd_wg=TwQPA&pd_rd_r=4a9917b2-8604-498e-95a4-ad6dc1fef0f2&pd_rd_i=B0D9W89Q4Z&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_pd_hp_d_atf_rp_1_t&th=1 Rob
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I made some "pockets" for the battens with left over sail material and just glued them over the battens. I think it made for a more finished and realistic sail. Rob
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The only way to know is to try it!
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I usually use Brass Black, which is inexpensive and works on many metals.
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Your boat looks great. I think your tiller looks great and there is no reason the "owner" of your boat could not make a modified tiller if he wants. As for wear and tear that's also totally up to you. Perhaps some earth colored pastels woujld be helpful?
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Looks wonderful! If I may suggest, make sure the dagger board will fit the trunk after painting. Guess how I know? 😅 Rob
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I rounded the edges of the planks on my pram, but I think either way looks good. It is more personal preference. If you want a brass skeg on the bottom, I would use a thin brass strip and attach it after you paint. I would use CA to attach it in place. Your pram looks amazing so far. I also had the transom knee hanging in space, don't feel alone! Rob
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Beginner looking for advice on first kit
rob444b replied to O-Nurse's topic in New member Introductions
I am fairly new to this also and started with the Model expo ship shipwright series. A series of 3 boats each a little more complex. They can be bought as a set or individually, They have a plan if you build the first (Grand Banks Dory) and send them a picture of it you will get full credit for your next build. I had a lot of fun with these kits and I think you learn a lot going from one to the other. https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html Rob -
This is a great way to start learning how to build wooden ships. If you need I can scan the manual and send it to you as a PDF Rob
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"When it came time to fit the thwarts I needed to deepen the slots for the frames. My #16 blade was really helpful here. I guess my dory was a little thinner than most?" I had the exact same problem. I think when you plank and glue under tension, the planks tend to push the hull inward. Which is the reason they wanted you to keep the hull on the frame after it we separated, I believe. I just kind of forced my thwarts in place, to help keep things from contracting. Your dory looks amazing!
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You are looking great. A suggestion, use several coats of sanding sealer before painting. The acrylic pain tends to raise the grain on the wood. Also the idea is not new to me but you can modify the binder clips you use as clamps by using the handles to make a base using either the loop end or the other end as the picture I added shows. They are really handy!
- 30 replies
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- Grand Banks Dory
- first build
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