DMM

7 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

With help like that, who needs friends?

 

Sprayed with what? Oil-based enamel or water-based acrylic?

 

I would not advise trying to strip the paint off of plastic.  Isopropyl alcohol will remove some types of acrylic paint, but not all. Stripping the paint with any other sort of solvent runs the risk of softening the plastic. Your best bet is to wait until the paint is thoroughly hardened. Then sand, wet or dry doesn't matter. Wet is messy. Dry is dusty. There's no free lunch there.

 

You should sand the surface down until it is completely fair. Use a foam sanding block which will avoid your developing flat spots that you'd get from a hard block... or use your fingers. The goal is not to sand the "goof" fair at the expense of the surrounding area. You want to sand the whole surface fair without simply developing a smoothed "divot" in the overall surface. This is important because it will really show up when the whole surface is repainted if it's not perfectly faired into the whole surrounding surface. It looks like you have a fairly thick smear there, so you may wish to start with somewhere around a 320 or 400 grit paper and once you get it faired with that, then go over it again with a 600 grit. You want to get the whole area "smooth as a baby's bottom." Don't forget to carefully attend to the detail sanding around the through-hull on the side of the hull there, It needs it, too. Don't sand too aggressively with the larger grit sandpaper. If you sand too aggressively with heavy grit, you will likely see sanding swirls and scratches on the painted surface that will be difficult to remove with your finer grit paper.

 

After you've sanded it smooth dust it well and wipe it down with a "tack rag" which can be bought at any paint store. If you haven't encountered one of these before, it's just a piece of cheesecloth that is covered in some sort of slightly sticky stuff. They're cheap. Wiping the surface with a tack cloth will remove all traces of sanding dust on the surface. (Did I mention that sanding at your workbench and then immediately painting thereafter is asking for dust specks all over your paint job? Sand in one room. Paint in another.) If you fold your tack cloth carefully, you will see that it provides a lot of tacky surface and can be used a folded square at a time for a long time if you keep it sealed in a zip lock bag between uses. If you don't, it will dry up in a week or two. Don't apply your boot stripe masking tape until you've tacked the area well. Dust under the tape edge may cause paint to wick under the tape. (For this same reason, never lay a roll of masking tape on its side, especially on a dusty workbench top. It will pick up dust on the edge of the roll and you'll have dust all along the line you mask with it. Store masking tape in a zip-lock plastic bag and it will stay clean and not dry out over time.)

 

Once your hull is sanded and taped, tack it again immediately before you paint it. Then paint it. Good luck if you are using a "rattle can" to spray the paint. If you are lucky, you won't get spits and spatters out of it. wiping the nozzle with a clean rag and a bit of solvent before spraying is a good idea, as is testing your spray pattern on a piece of cardboard or the like before aiming it at the model to make sure it's working okay before committing to the real job. Spray it on in light coats. Begin the spraying beyond the end of the model and let up on the nozzle beyond the other end, holding the can level and at a right angle to the surface being sprayed. Don't bend your wrist to "brush" it with the spray pattern. This will vary the distance between your nozzle and the sprayed surface and result in an uneven application of paint.

 

I figure you may well be aware of all these little details, but I added them while I was at it because others with less experience may be reading this post.

 

Good luck with it. "Goofs" just go with the territory. Don't feel too bad. Maybe you might want to keep that friend out of your modeling shop in the future, though.  

Thank you for the nice explanation, very helpful to newbie like me  

6 hours ago, bruce d said:

Bummer. 

It would help a lot to know a some more such as what paint, was it brushed or sprayed?  It looks like a plastic model so hopefully it will stand a bit of handling during the repairs.

 

Bruce

It was sprayed and yes, plastic model

2 hours ago, SkiBee said:

Instead of stripping off the paint, why not just use some wet sandpaper and get it smooth then repaint the whole area again.

What grid should I wet sand with?

My friend came over to help me paint the ship, he accidentally touched the wet paint and then repaint it, now it looks like this. How do I fix it? 

39 minutes ago, allanyed said:

 D

What ship, nation, year are you building?   When I hear battleship I think steel ships, thus virtually no rigging compared to sailing ships of earlier times.  Sailing ships had dozens of sizes of running rigging and standing rigging but later ships had very few lines by comparison and could be both manilla and steel lines.  At your scale a few sizes would probably suffice.  

Allan

I have 1/350 yamato

What's good size and color thread for 1/350 battleship? I've seen someone on other website said don't use black&white thread for rigging, sewing thread isn't great etc. I want to know what kind of thread and size you guys used for your 1/350 model. 

Thanks

My 1/350 yamato came with a missing 2.6x16mm screw. I've looked everywhere, couldn't find it. I also tried different screws, but they were a little too small. Are there any screws that I can use to replace 2.6x16mm? Thanks

Thanks everyone! 🙂

Hi,

I painted my 1/350 battleship hull in gloss red, and after looking at it, I don't really like how it looks, I want to wipe the red off and use the dull red spray instead, can I use 91% isopropyl alcohol to wipe it off? Will it melt/damage the plastic if I soak it in 91%? OR can I spray the dull red directly onto the old paint?