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Bob Cleek

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  1. In using this construction technique, at what point does tumblehome become a problem in removing the planked hull from the plug? I recall the loss of tumblehome when yacht hulls began to be made of fiberglass, which didn't permit removing a hull with tumblehome from a mold unless the mold was constructed of two parts split down the centerline which could be disassembled and removed from each side. Is there enough "flex" in the planked up structure to "spread" the sides and "pop" the hull off the plug?
  2. Fly tying vises are great. Anything that holds the workpiece will generally improve efficiency and accuracy by orders of magnitude over fingers. (Don't ask me how long it took me to learn this bit of wisdom! ) Many modelers are familiar with the following "holders." I'm posting them for newcomers who may not have encountered them as yet. The jeweler's hand vise: These come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and styles. My favorite is one which adjusts by twisting the handle, which screws the handle up a threaded shaft with a cone at its base which forces the jaws together
  3. That works. Another trick, particularly if you have an adapter for each blade that needs one, is to place the blade flat on top of a flat surface with a piece of "non-stick" material, like a piece of tinfoil or plastic wrap. Place the adapter inside the blade center hole. Apply a sparing drop of glue to a couple or three evenly spaced placed on the seam between the spacer and the blade. Pretty much any glue will do, with CA being the least preferable, but still acceptable. Let the glue dry. This attaches the spacer in the blade hole so that the blade can be easily placed on the arbor in the us
  4. Use a new, sharp drill bit in a pin vise and don't force it. No powered drilling. Let the bit cut the wood. Expect to lose a few in any event due to weak grain in the wrong place.
  5. Tagua nuts. https://www.amazon.com/10-Eco-friendly-easy-carve-tagua-nuts/dp/B0002IXM3C "Solid surface" material, originally patented by DuPont as "Corian" and used for countertops and other work surfaces, and now manufactured by others as well, comes in a huge selection of colors including ivory and is easily machined and glued with epoxy adhesive. It was originally only sold wholesale to installers and was only available to licensed fabricators and installers, but now may be more obtainable by the general public. It's q
  6. The accuracy of a Byrnes Model Machines table saw is measured in thousandths of an inch with a micrometer fence adjustment. The tape may not make any difference on a right angle cut, but things can wobble when the work isn't laying perfectly flat on the table. With something between the workpiece and the table, sliding can be uneven, a slight movement can cause the blade to catch the piece and cause a kickback. It may well only happen in theory... and then again, it may happen in reality. As I said, if you wanted to take a chance, it's your blood, not mine. I think I'd be more inclined to use
  7. My thought, too. If you have a saw that is capable of fine tolerances, e.g. a Byrnes, the tape solution will probably sacrifice some reliable accuracy. On the other hand, as for tape tearing through and all that, there is an aluminium (I think) tape commonly used to tape ducting joints in HVAC installations that would probably solve any tearing issues. On balance, your idea is a clever one and perhaps a quick solution for a single cut, if you are careful and not too concerned about ultimate accuracy. For a production run of planking strips... not so much. I think you'd
  8. Oh yeah! Definitely! Professional jewelry supply houses, and medical and dental instrument supply houses are goldmines full of useful modeling tools and supplies, generally at higher quality and even at lower prices that the "hobby" online suppliers. In the US: https://www.riogrande.com/category/tools-and-equipment https://contenti.com/professional-jewelry-making-tool-kit https://www.ottofrei.com/jewelry-tools-equipment
  9. I'd strongly second this recommendation. The initial cost is about twice what a decent Dremel or Proxxon will cost, but, indeed there is no comparison. The Foredom flex-shaft tool system is several multiples better than the less expensive options. (Do not opt for one of the Chinese copies now on the market. They've gotten terrible reviews.) As for drill presses, Vanda-Lay Industries, which produces an excellent system of "Dremel powered" drill presses and mills, etc., has informed me they would be happy to supply their equipment with fixtures to hold the 1" diamenter Foredom handpieces instead
  10. Well, while we are on the subject of expensive machines, and because the most important requirement seems to be the ability to pick it up and put it on a shelf, one could consider the Unimat DB or SL lathe and mill machine. They are no longer made, but there are a lot of them on the used market and parts and tooling remain available, although some items, like threading attachments and complete collet sets are pricey. There are a lot of them on eBay, together with all the various attachments (jigsaw, table saw, planer, etc., etc.) They have a cult following. I love mine for what it is, given it
  11. Sorry. I'm still not seeing it. Is the post sticking up out of the top the collet? A wild guess is that one of the knurled rings twists one way and the other the opposite way and that allows the nut to be turned, but I'm guessing. I cant see what the assembly is all about from the photo. It looks like the knurled rings are pretty well galled up already. It looks like "somebody" went at it with a pipe wrench. Somebody who's been there and done that with this unit will probably have the answer for you.
  12. I'm not even able to visualize a "collet stuck on a drill spindle." A picture is worth a thousand words.
  13. Well Bill, welcome to the club! Who knew you were so accomplished a modeler! I thought you were just another "newbie." The club I'm referring to is the neuropathic modelers' club. Like Roger, I also have peripheral neuropathy in both hands and feet. Fortunately, (knock on wood,) I've managed to soldier on with a variety of the usual compensating techniques. You've got a few years on me, so I can imagine the challenges you face. Neuropathy doesn't get any better as the years roll on, but I'm sure you have more models in those hands. The plans in Chapelle's books are gr
  14. If you have the time, it would be interesting to see how they did that!
  15. I understand your question, but I think you'd be better off by a long shot building one of the many ship model kits of a known United States Revenue Cutter. You'll find them all, I believe, listed here: https://www.coastguardmodeling.com/index.php/models/cutters/revenue-cutters/ Plans should be readily available. Someone here on the MSW forum may have a set they no longer need. Otherwise, if you want to get historically accurate plans, I expect at least some of them should be available through the National Archives or the Coast Guard History Department. Howard I. Chapelle's Histor
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