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Bob Cleek

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  1. Do you think the experienced guys turn them out all that much faster? A half hour to make a deadeye and chainplates isn't all that bad at all.
  2. 1980's, 1880's, 1780's, 1680's? In London, your best bet for any of the above would be the Royal Museums Greenwich - National Maritime Museum.
  3. Absolutely! A bit of thinner, turpentine or mineral spirits, or a bit of acetone if I'm spraying, which allows building up a coating without waiting so long for it to dry, a tiny dash of flattening paste, if needed, a tiny dash of Japan drier to speed up drying even more if needed, a bit of raw linseed oil to slow down drying if need be. pour it into an empty pill bottle with a half dozen bee-bees and shake her up good. Getting in touch with my inner mad scientist. Life is good! Big tubes of some high quality colors can seem a bit pricey, but I sure don't miss paying eight bucks for a third of an ounce of pre-mixed paint anymore, that's for sure.
  4. Hey, Roger, I can save you ten bucks. Check out this free interactive online color wheel: https://www.rapidtables.com/web/color/color-wheel.html You just click on the area of color you want on the color wheel or type in the Hex, RGB, or HSL code and you get a "chip" of the color in the large square to the right of the color wheel. The colors on either side of the color you pick are the colors that yield the color you picked when mixed together. Red and yellow make orange, yellow and blue make green, blue and red make purple, and so on.
  5. What Jaager said. However, be sure to buy quality artists' oils, which have finer-ground pigments, not cheaper "student" or "hobbyist" grades. These will have "purer" colors which are more likely to blend as expected. Sometimes, non-primary colors are a combination of colors which don't behave exactly as expected when mixed with other colors. Given the usually limited palette of ship models, It only takes a few tubes of colors to give one the ability to pretty much everything they'll ever need. However, if you really want to stick with premixed paints, check out Tru-Color Paint. I've not used it myself. It's a relatively new company and isn't as widely distributed as some of the other brands, but it is getting really good reviews from the railroad and armor modelers. They will mix custom colors, I believe. That said, their color selection is so broad that I don't think you will find it all that difficult to get a match. Check out their color charts. See: https://trucolorpaint.com/
  6. Wow! What a selection of "jewelry!" It looks reasonably priced, too. This one went right into my "Favorites - Modeling" file. Thanks a million for sharing it, Kurt!
  7. Excellent question! I wondered the same thing the other day. Vossiewulf was a valuable member of the forum community. He's a very accomplished modeler. I've learned much from him over the years. Perhaps the Admin could give him a ping.
  8. "I have scratch built turnbuckles but I found a source for very well made brass turnbuckles at a very reasonable price and will not scratch build another turnbuckle. These are for more modern boats than steam riverboats where I will still have to scratch build them." Did you forget to post the link to your source, or are you just trying to play hard to get? I've always had problems with turnbuckles. Reasonable facsimiles can be made, but I've never been able to replicate the working turnbuckles on a 4' long live steam working 1900 steam yacht model I extensively restored years ago. The model was built in the early 1920's. Four inch-long open body turnbuckles with properly opposingly threaded forked arms supported the deck-stepped signals mast. I've looked all over for tiny reverse-thread taps and dies to no avail. Even regular tiny taps and dies are very hard to find and quite expensive. I expect the best that can be done is to have but one end threaded and the other a "dummy." On that model, the ability to loosen the turnbuckles and unhook the shrouds from the chainplates made it possible to remove the mast when transporting the model, a feature that came in very handy. If anybody knows where opposing-threaded micro-taps and dies can be found, I'm all ears. (I wouldn't be a bit surprised if wefalck doesn't have a complete set of right and left-handed micro-taps and dies in his collection of watchmaking tools! )
  9. I did not know that. Very interesting. It makes perfect sense that they'd not be too worried about antifouling paint there. I have not idea what the local regs are, but there are lots of rust-inhibiting coatings available now, so red lead isn't needed. (They can even spray molten zinc, which results in the equivalent of hot dipped galvanizing.) They come at a cost, though. In my neck of the woods, they stopped painting the Golden Gate Bridge with red lead paint years ago. They now use another coating of the same color.
  10. Maybe I'm missing the color to which you refer. Red lead primer is used to prime iron and steel because the lead oxide bonds well to iron and steel. It's not an antifouling hull coating, however. Traditional antifouling coatings are generally the same a reddish brown color as some red lead paint because they contain a fair amount of cuprous oxide. There's a wide range of colors which one might describe as "red lead." Red lead oxide pigment has a color range from bright orange ("International Orange") through scarlet to brick red or brown depending on the composition of the lead oxide. That's the problem when it comes to matching it. Because red lead oxide was the cheapest paint pigment at one time, they painted everything with it where appearances didn't matter, from ship bottoms to boxcars to schoolhouses, to barns, and in every variation of the orange to brown range. This is probably why none of the paint manufacturers market a specific "red lead" color. Artists call the bright orange colored version of red lead tetroxide "minium," which was what the Romans called it. You can find artists' oil paint called by that name: Minium (Red Lead) Oil Paint Minium 50Ml (artistsupplysource.com) You'll find many premixed shades of what you are looking for in the "railroad colors" section of model paint manufacturers' chip sheets. Minium-232908 - Minium (mineral) - Wikipedia Or, you can buy lead tetroxide powder from Firefoxs' Home page--for fireworks making supplies, pyrotechnic chemicals, color smoke, composite propellant kits, electric igniter kits, Igniter Heads, Paper Caps & Plugs, 37/38mm insert materials, fireworks fuse.... (firefox-fx.com) and mix up a batch of the real stuff in your basement at home: Makes one gallon: 20 lbs dry red lead tetroxide powder** 5 pts raw linseed oil* 1/2 pt turpentine 1/2 pt Japan drier* *If using "boiled" linseed oil, the Japan drier should be omitted. **If cost or weight is a consideration, cabosil or talc may be substituted for up to half the red lead tetroxide powder to maintain paint consistency. Or for small modelmaking amounts, you could just take any clear matt finish coating and however much red lead tetroxide powder you need to color it to your taste.
  11. Thanks for posting this conversion chart program. It's one of the most extensive I've ever seen and a welcome addition to my "favorites" collection. I especially like the convenient feature of just clicking on the brand and then the color and getting the whole range of equivalents. It's more than just a "chart," it's a program. While the variation in computer screen color settings render these "online paint chips" less than perfect, they are an excellent start for those of us who mix our own colors, or run out of our "stash" of the old-time premixed "good stuff" in the middle of a build. For those who may find it useful, here's an additional color conversion chart for the now out of production Floquil colors: Floquil Color Chart.pdf (microscale.com) Here also is a link to a PDF copy of Floquil's instruction booklet on another website. It contains a lot of good painting tips for miniatures: Floquil Painting Miniatures (paulbudzik.com)
  12. While quality model kits, as Roger describes them, serve to inspire and educate beginning builders and those who, for whatever reason, want a model a particular kit yields, "going over to the dark side" of scratch modeling is the inevitable outcome of one's developing modeling confidence, if not skill. You don't need to be a Passaro or Tosti to build from scratch. As Roger sagely notes, there is an unlimited supply of plans for just about any type of boat and they can often be had for "beer money," if not for free. Freeing one's self from bondage to the kit manufacturers opens the entire world of nautical subjects to the modeler who is thereby no longer bound to building models of ships that have been built hundreds, if not thousands, of times before. Chapelle famously addressed this over fifty years ago (I think,): Nautical Research Guild - Article - Ship Models that Should Not be Built (thenrg.org) and Nautical Research Guild - Article - Ship Models that Ought to be Built (thenrg.org). I think the question that should be asked by serious modelers more often than it seems to be is, "If, by some strange twist of fate, my model were to come to light two or three hundred years from now, would studying it tell people in that far distant future anything they didn't already know?" We don't have to build to the amazing levels of technical quality to which only a few are able to achieve, either. Some of the most academically valuable models we have today were actually quite crude, but they are all we have to see what ships of their times looked like. We are all capable of building "museum quality" models, if we just give them enough time! Mataró – the oldest Museum Ship Model | Professional Model Making (wordpress.com)
  13. Tools get you through times of no love better than love gets you through times of no tools!
  14. I always knew there was a reason that I always kept my printed copies of magazines I valued, but, until now, I never realized why. I have a complete cased set of WoodenBoat magazine, having acquired every issue since they provided us with samples to review at the classic yacht brokerage where I was working when their first issue came out. I also have a digital set and, just as Kurt does, I use the digital version for the index and to skim for what I'm seeking, but when I narrow my research, I always pick up the hard copy. There's no explaining publisher's attitudes. I suppose some have good reason. The motives of others remain suspect. a few decades ago, I contacted the Hearst Publishing offices to inquire whether they would allow me to edit and prepare for publication a "best of" anthology of MoTorBoaTing magazines "Ideal Series," itself a collection of "how to build it" and similar articles from the magazine, which had been very popular between 1920 and 1960 before going out of business and, at some point, selling its rights to the Hearst Publishing Company. There were many "public domain" plans for some of the nicest small boats ever designed by some of the top naval architects in the first half of the 20th Century. I couldn't even get them to send me a rejection letter after three attempts to engage in discussions with them! It would have been some of the easiest money they ever made and there was no doubt the anthology would have been very popular. Hearst didn't even have the courtesy of explaining why they weren't interested.
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