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Bob Cleek

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  1. "Ashley's" is widely available and entertaining, given the many pen and ink illustrations. It is organized by the various trades that use the various knots. Ashley's Book of Knots, in an early edition, at least, is in the public domain and available online for free: https://archive.org/details/TheAshleyBookOfKnots/page/n15/mode/2up The Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Ropework by Hensel and Graumont is a more scholarly work organized by the mechanics of the various knot types, e.g. "hitches," "knots," "sennits," "turksheads," etc. They both have about the same huge number of knots covered. Ashley's has better instructions on tying some knots. Hensel and Graumont show how the basic knot is tied with arrows and diagrams, but assume that once you've learned the basic knot, you can figure out the various variations on each knot on your own. For ship modeling purposes, I've found googling around in YouTube for videos on surgical knots and fly-tying to be a good source of tricks, particularly the use of tweezers and forceps as tying tools for micro-surgical knots. There's lots of tricks in the surgical knot subject matter area.
  2. Lovely models. I very much like to see small models like these done well. The "modern" wire and turnbuckle rigging is particularly difficult, but worth the challenge. There are entirely too many Victory and Constitution, and the like, models out here, but not nearly enough of small wooden craft. Very nice presentation on the camp plaques, too!
  3. Oh my God! I've just spent the better part of a Saturday morning completely enthralled with your website: www.shipphotographer.com I can't recommend it highly enough to the forum members. The photography is fantastic. I've see a lot of ship model photographs in my day, but always too few taken by a photographer who was a master of both photography and ship modeling at the same time. Your series on the Ukrainian ship modeling competition entries was humbling. I've never seen so much spectacularly fine work in one place outside of a museum. It would be so helpful to the ship modeling hobby here if more of us were multilingual. There seems to be so much ship modeling going on in Eastern Europe that we miss here because of the language differences. (Google translate is my friend, but our English language search engines seem to often pass over foreign websites.) I'm sure I haven't yet seen a quarter of what you have posted on your website and I have to get on with today's chores, but I've got it bookmarked for later study. Your blog is really informative, as well, and your YouTube videos are wonderful. I'm not the sort to gush over things, but I really have to say that your contributions are a remarkable addition to our craft. Thank you so much for sharing them. I can't imagine how one person could manage to have the time to put together such a great collection of ship modeling information and photographs and also hold down a full-time job as a highway engineer! Perhaps it's the synergy of having a marine archaeologist for a husband. What a great combination. You're both very lucky people! I suggest the moderators consider some way to introduce and highlight your website and videos to the forumites. There's so much there of such great beauty and value and I fear many might overlook your complete body of work when all we have of it on MSW at present is one kit-build log, which is wonderful, but hardly representative of the scope and complexity of your total body of work to date. You're unquestionably right up there with the finest modelers posting on this site, none of which, I might add, are anywhere near you when it comes to photographing their work.
  4. I just deleted my first post in this thread. I saw I'd posted twice and said basically the same thing in the same thread and I thought I was getting a bit foggy in the head! I'm no spring chicken but not that old. Thanks for clearing that up and restoring my confidence in my sanity!
  5. I have the same Marine Models Co. Morgan kit in "unopened" condition. One of these days I'll build it, but I've sort of outgrown kits, so I'm contemplating a lot of "kit bashing" or using the plans to build a 1:48 scale scratch-build, perhaps even plank-on-frame. The Morgan is a great vessel to model, but there are a lot of Morgan models around and if and when I build it, I would want something different from all the rest. I've decided to build her as of the date of her launch, carrying her original ship rig. I've been researching her original appearance for some time. I'd not known of the Stackpole book, so I've ordered a copy just now. From what my research has revealed thus far is that in her original configuration the windows were indeed there. (There's also a log entry relating that one was stove in at one point.) The windlass was originally abaft the foremast, where the hatch is now. The hatch was where the windlass is now. The original windlass placement seems odd, but likely allowed it better positioning for use handling the cutting in tackle and blubber hook. The deck house built on the stern was not there originally. She had a bare deck and uncovered steering station when launched. The shed roof over the tryworks area was not original, either. If anybody knows of any other changes, I'd be happy to hear of them..
  6. Simply use whatever serves the purpose, shape-wise and wrap it in kitchen plastic wrap. CA sticks to glass and metal just fine, so... I've never had a problem with epoxies or CA sticking to plastic wrap because whatever plastic wrap that sticks tears or scrapes off easily. I have to say, though, that I use CA as little as possible. In a lot of ways, I find it nasty stuff and expensive.
  7. Shssss! Keep that under yer hat, will ya? We don't want to blow a good thing. BTW, if you are in San Diego, you can run across the border and get lots of really good stuff you can't buy in California. Guys used to run down there and buy tributyl tin oxide to add to their boat bottom paint in CA. It was banned everywhere years ago because it killed marine organisms... which is exactly what it was supposed to do!
  8. If you haven't already, try 3M disk adhesive, sold in auto body and fender supply houses. (If they still make it. Every time I try to buy something useful her in CA, it seems they've outlawed it!) It comes in applicator bottles, "toothpaste" tubes, and aerosol cans. It's made to easily clean off sanding pads with acetone. It does get a bit tenacious when it's been sitting for a long time, though. It may be hard to come by these days, though. Everybody seems to have gone to adhesive-backed pre-cut disks and hook and loop. Cutting your own out of sandpaper bought by the 100 sheet sleeve is way cheaper than hoop and loop!
  9. As said, aside for a thickness sander, disk sander, and perhaps a sanding drum, there's little use for sanding machines in modeling. The thickness and disk sanders for modeling really have to be specialty machines designed to work to very close tolerances. The thickness sanders perform the same function as a thickness planer in full-scale woodworking and a disk sander for modeling has to have a very accurate table and miter gauge. These specialty modeling machines work to tolerances of .001 and don't come cheap. (Byrnes are really the only ones worth spending the money on, IMHO.) Proxxon and MicroMark market all sorts of powered modeling tools, but most all are overkill for ship modeling. Modelers cut pieces with jeweler's saws, small chisels, and hobby knives and scalpels, rather than shaping wood with sandpaper. In many instances, a scraper is the better tool than sandpaper in any event. Given the size of the work, there's no need for full-size sanders. Many is the part that's been ruined by an over-aggressive powered sanding machine. Finish sanding on models is done with paper in the grit ranges of 320 to 600, which doesn't work so well with power sanders, anyway.
  10. I'd say Model Expo's going out of business is unlikely. They are the biggest outfit in the game. Many US companies have inventory clearance sales before March when they are taxed on the inventory they have on hand. The less inventory, the less they pay in inventory taxes. They stock up thereafter. I expect that fact, plus the big surge in demand for modeling kits and materials since the pandemic "lockdown" probably explains the shortage at present. Chuck Passaro of Syren Ship Models, who is one of the forum sponsors, and makes great rigging line, scale blocks, and other goodies, has been lamenting that he can't keep products in stock with the present demand. Another factor is that the supply chains have been disrupted due to the pandemic. Jim Byrnes has had to stop taking orders for his modeling power tools because he can't get enough motors shipped to his factory. The kit companies are probably experiencing shortages of raw materials, as well.
  11. You realize, of course, that we have no historically accurate idea of what Columbus' ships actually looked like? If cost is an object, and ship model kits can be amazingly expensive sometimes, I'd suggest you might consider "card" models made of paper. These are much less expensive and many are even free. You download the "parts" and print them on cardstock on your printer. The parts are then cut out of the cardstock and glued together into a model. There is a separate section on the forum discussing the techniques for building with card. These aren't cheesy models, either. The cardstock is painted and sealed and quite permanent. The result is indistinguishable from full wooden models. The big advantage of working in cardstock is that you don't have to invest in tools and the downloadable kits are relatively inexpensive. Check out the build log below to see the potential of cardstock modeling. It can produce models of museum quality no different than any other material. Parts sheets for downloading for lots of different vessels with varying degrees of modeling difficulty are available. As everybody new gets told, don't get over-ambitious. It takes years, even a lifetime, to get to the point of some of the masters on this forum. The rest of us stand in awe of them. Start slow with something you like. Take your time. See if you like it. If you run into problems, you can always ask for help here. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/28-card-and-paper-models/
  12. Kurt's the airbrush maven in here, but I'd be inclined to say that no such animal exists!
  13. I asked my Kaiser Permanente (GREAT plan!) doctor and he explained that what they can do on the video conference is bill Medicare for the "visit." That's a new Medicare regulation, so they are taking advantage of it. He explained that we'd catch up on the usual annual tests and physical exam when things calm down with the shelter-in-place orders. The video "exams" are basically just a "best we can right now" measure to keep in touch. If there's some pressing issue, they have you come in.
  14. It depends upon how thick the primer will be applied. It should be applied very thinly on a model, so I'd say 320 would be as coarse as you dare. 400 would be better. 600 is probably finer than you need it. Wet or dry, doesn't matter. Dry is a lot less messy. It has to be perfectly smooth. Use your finger tips to feel for imperfections. Touch is better than sight.
  15. It depends upon how thick the primer will be applied. It should be applied very thinly on a model, so I'd say 320 would be as coarse as you dare. 400 would be better. 600 is probably finer than you need it. Wet or dry, doesn't matter. Dry is a lot less messy. It has to be perfectly smooth. Use your finger tips to feel for imperfections. Touch is better than sight.

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

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