gieb8688

I have a question and would like to know suggestions on ways to make a very delicate and troublesome fitting.
Grills
The big metal finely spaced grills used into engine spaces.
I need to make a lot of these with an average size of about 55mm high by anything from 12mm to 60mm wide, they are all fitted into  a frame which has radiused corners, does anybody have suggestions other than brass shim and solder?
I suspect the blades are bent at a 90 degree angle which would make jigging harder, or easier depending how you look at it.
Image below of typical fitting
Measurement from deck to deck is 69.6mm to give idea of size
 

Here can be clearly seen the variation in stages of oxidisation of the decks

Thanks Yves
Yes I suppose I am using all techniques , to be honest once the CnC is all cut sanded and removed from sheet it should take very little time to assemble and look like a ship again, the hardest part for me will be deciding when to paint each section, have had automotive acrylic paints made to the BS381c standard and will be airbrushing, though the decks which have a lot of oxidisation and touchups will have to be done with Tamiya and done by hand along with weathering techniques, the green decks always look grubby.
The hull plates will be laid in .5mm 3 ply  with grain vertical and the edge very lightly arissed or bevelled, the weld bead then gets glued into the slight depression left and the bead rolled with a serrated roller to give effect of weld, the tin canning effect I want to get but understate will be sanded into the high build primer by sanding between frames with finger taking advantage of the un uniform nature it will give, at least that's the theory at this stage, I have not actually tried it yet, the other is to make a rubber screed with the tin canning shaped cut in and hard filler applied to each plate once on hull though this will take a lot longer, but hull an ship will be fully tin canned as this ship had it a lot and was noticeable.
I am wondering if making a scale paint roller would yield good results for deck paint to get the pattern you get with uneven coverage.
The deck is a colour called forest green, its a dark almost Brunswick green but quickly goes chalky and a pale verdigris colour so was always being touched up. decks were done in a compound called Semprene which was rubber system about 1 1/2 inch thick applied to steel decks, I will be making this from 1mm ply prefinished off ship and glued into place after other paint is done on waterways and deck bars etc.
Below you can see the effect, both those colours are the same paint but the bridge top is faded version, image has a cast, yes I know it looks blue but its not.
the second image has no cast and is correct colours as far as photos can be

And here are the first 5 sheets of parts cut from high quality 5 ply 6.5mm Wisa ply.
 

Hi John and Harry
Yes it is certainly one of those "where was I when" moments, I was only born in 71 so not even alive although I am from Wellington, but half my family worked for the Union Steamship company and the Naval Architect who designed her was a friend of the family so it all became too much to ignore, I fell in love with the ship because of her looks, not because of her fate although in saying that a good deal of the reference I have is from the wreck including 4 hours of video documenting her scrapping as well as just her short  2 year  life. John I never knew that was planned, luckily it blew out as fast as it hit, by 11.00am it was just a regular Wellington Storm but yes it was a very significant moment for design to, many Ro Ro rules and standards were changed because of her sinking and ways of stopping free surface water effect.
Harry you are correct, not one person died on the ship, they died sadly on the rocks in the monstrous sea breaking on the shore or a couple of exhaustion after floating around for so long waiting to be rescued.
her looks continue to inspire artists and modellers, I frequently get requests  for sets of plans and photos for things ranging from paintings to models, even from people with no ties to NZ, quite amazing really.
 

You will notice above the substantial Aluminium beams on the building board.
Here are some images of the cad model a few hours away from being ready to cut the parts.
Assembly should be fairly quick as it all  slots together, yes I have done fit tests and yes it does go together.
The first image shows the main longitudinal girders that help tie it all together and the first 3 images are with the superstructure lid off, the 4th shows it on.

So that was the first go at the hull which I was forced to abandon due to structural issues in the glassing of the hull.
Below is the new   hull and shots showing how it was planned and broken into shorter sections per layer with stepped bulkhead to keep alignment accurate athwartships.
The tug is an empire class tug (Tapuhi) as a service model to the main

Starboard side is almost finished. I decided sometime ago that I would do sides in turns. Now port side...... I know it will be boring but at least there is some activity in my build log. This weekend´s work has been quarter galleries.

 

 
Best regards
 
Henrik

Thanks for all likes and comments and particular to Håkan. We are many who like 1:64 scale. When building a large ship like Agamemnon it is a nice trad-off between detailing and physical size.
 
And now some pictures of this weeks progress. I have been working on the channels and the final detailing of the stern gallery (starboard side). Starboard side is almost finished.
 

 

 

 
Best regards
 
Henrik

It was around this time that i received Syren's Rope Rocket, and i started experimenting with different types of rope layouts. I never liked the ropes that come with AL's kits, they look and feel very shaggy and overall low quality. I made my firsts laids of rope and im very happy with the results.
 

 

 
Now having good rope i started laying the bowsprit. I had to drill 2 holes in the hull of the ship, one for the bowsprit itself and another one for the rope. The end of the rope ties to a belaying pin. I used CA to glue the brass loop to the wood and used a tiny drill to make holes for the eyebolts. I also made the holes in the rigging blocks bigger so my hand made rope could go through. I am thinking of buying aftermarket rigging blocks, anyone knows a good dealer in europe?
 

 
Next step was the anchor. I scratch built the mechanism that lowers and raises the anchor, and i decided to go a step further and have the anchor tied first to a little chain, then to the rope. I had to start backwards, since i wouldnt be able to wrap the rope against the mechanism the other way around. I think it turned out great.
 

Quick update on the deck works. I followed pictures of the original boat as to make all the furniture, since the instructions in the kit leave the deck to be somewhat empty and lacking, in my opinion. First i added a little base with round windows in which to mount the rest of the skylight and entrances to the interior of the boat. This was all scratch made. Looking back on it, i think i made it too long, but its just my impression and now that i have added the rest of the details, doesnt look that bad. 
 
I cut the kit's skylight in two so it is the same as in the real one. Also, in most photos, the skylight and the entrances are covered by a black blanket, but i left it with the wood finish.
 

 
This is the scratch made base with windows i made for the rest of the furniture to stand on. I had to buy the aftermarked round windows, but i think it looks pretty good.
 

 
This is one of the close ups of the furniture laying on top. I used nail heads for the door handles and brass strips for the hinges. In the original they dont have the tiny wooden doors, but i think they looked cute and i wanted to add them.
 

 
Finished deck with the steering and other elements. I must say, i am not very happy with the steering handle (i dont know how its called) and its base. You can see original photos here. I wanted to scratch build it but i didnt have any good wood pieces to carve it out of.
 

 
After this step, i barnished all the furniture and glued it into place, and started working on the rigging.

Now it was time to paint varnish the hull. I decided to go with the black-red-white palette since the one that appeared on the box was not of my liking. Honestly, i had to paint it over 3 times until i felt it was good enough, so i may just show you the finished result
 
Primed the hull:
 

 
Painting:
 

 
Varnish and waxing (i used the wax i use on my car for this and the results are amazing):
 

Now it was time for the side bulkwark pieces. Now, the originals in the kit do not run all the way of the hull, so i had to cut them and drill some holes in them. Before i installed them i painted the inside of them red, since it was going to be easier to paint that way. I used some wood sealant, primer, vallejo air color and my old airbrush to do the job.
 

 

 
Also, the stern of the ship didnt have to be round, it has to have a nice sharp edge in which the lettering can be painted. So with some wood filler, i sculpted it to shape, and made some scratch outside supports, since the ones that come with the kit are horrible at best.
 

Now it was time to start planking the deck. In the kit, the side planks are not black, so i used a black marker to paint them, since i didnt have any black ink. Also, at the stern of the ship, a little piece is not supposed to lay flush with the deck, it is supposed to be raised!
 

 

 

 
I decided to use a varnish that has a glossy finish for the deck and hull, and i couldnt be happier. Looks so good! (This photo was taken after priming the hull, i am sorry yet again)
 

 

Hi everyone!
 
I had to take a break from the hobby since it was my last year of university but i can finally say, after 4 very hard and very long years, that i am a graduated engineer! Now that i once again have some time to spend as i see fit, i decided to continue on the build i left half-done when the exams and finals started.
 
This is the first build that i do in which i try to apply all of the knowledge i gained from my previous ones to get the best result possible. I know i still have much to learn, and constructive criticism is always welcomed!
 
Now, im sorry if the details of the first steps are not as detailed, its been some time and its proven difficult to find the pictures i took of this steps.
 
First of all, building the main skeleton of the boat. After building it and making a few adjustements (we all know how AL makes its kits), i nailed the fake deck to it. I took my time to make sure it was 100% not moving and in place, and that resulted in a very satisfying nail pattern
 
I also planked the lower deck pieces, since it was going to be easier if i did it prior to any other step
 

 
Planking of lower decks
 

 
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Nailing the fake deck (I took this last photo after planking, im sorry, but its the only one i have :C)
 
After this, it was time to start planking the hull. At this time, i asked the MSW forum about how do professional modellers manage to lay the planking flat to the keel. It was at this time that i learned about the rabbet line and the bearding line! I didnt even know what they were. Anyways, i did do the rabbet line, but since in this kit it has a back-bone type keel (the bulkheads go all the way up to the keel, making it really inconvenient to do the bearding line), it was suggested to me to first plank the hull and then sand the planks down before adding the keel. Since it was my first time doing so, it didnt look so good, but its not anything a little of wood filler cant solve.
 

 

 

 

 
I ended up with a pretty good result, and i feel that i am getting way better at planking!
 
 
 

Main mast structural rigging done! Just some photos to show you guys. I will start sewing later today.
 

 

 

 

 

That's little Nisha complete, thanks to Jim Hatch.
 
Just Erycina close behind....

And here is the completed Erycina!

Still working on new work unit (ex garage), still needs proper wiring for sockets and lights, and insulated doors. Both people are coming tomorrow to size up and give quotes - and, all being well, my new laser arrives on Friday!
 
In the meantime, me and Jim have been busy with Erycina and Nisha, the next two kits in the range. Jim just sent me these pics, the hulls for both are now fully complete, and masts, rig and sails won't take too long. I will have both of these available to buy before Christmas. The PE is being produced now, here in the UK, and I have a little more to do on manuals, which again, are printed here.
 
I think Jim has done a fantastic job on these. I will eventually finish my Erycina prototype and keep it for my own display...
 
Erycina has the green upper bulwarks, and Nisha has black.
 
Still laser cutting production sets for both as I type!

Greetings all
           And thanks for all your reply’s and likes, alas only a little interest. I have just tonight arrived home from a prostate cancer operation, which I think has gone  pretty  well. I said to my son I will never finish the Diana., So he bought me Chucks Mayflower which he said should keep me happy for a while. I assembled all the bulkheads last week and will maybe start a log next week, let’s  see how it goes. The Diana goes into the loft, and remains there for anyone who is ever interested. or maybe give it free in time to some one on the site who I believe in my opinion deserves it not for build logs, but for their input over a lot of years on the site, and l  have noted pretty often , but not someone who makes offers. It’s silly for it to go to waste, but if it does sell for £150 the money would be donated to MSW ......regards   DAVID

Greetings all
                Well Kev mate, and the rest of you like guys, it does not look good, but thanks to you all anyway for all the likes   But we will not give up yet chaps !!! . We shall reduce the price to £150 and deliver it to your doorstep...
                          Regards  DAVID
 

Greetings Mike
                   No I did not seal the hull you are correct. I have taken a strip of photos along the hull and I am pretty happy with it. It’s the best I can manage at a dithery 77year old 🙁🙁 lol.    Thanks a lot. Regards DAVE
 
 

Has it really been almost 2 months since my last update?
 
I suppose I have done a lot of work, and on two vessels. This update will be in 2 or 3 posts due to all photos.
 
Work on Nisha continued with hull fairing. This probably took no more than about 30 minutes due to her size. Always remember to run a lime plank along the lines to make sure there's no nasty surprises later on.
 

 
The multipart pear keel is now added. All fits perfectly.

 
The stern is tackled in a different way to normal with a single counter piece that deals with what would've been the hardest element of Nisha. This is the part for the first layer of planks, glued and clamped. This was also soaked to help it conform to the curves.

 
 
On with the inner bulwarks. These are a doddle to fit, with no ambiguity. Just make sure the ply deck hits the lower engraved line on the bulwark. Clamps and pins hold things while the glue dries.


 
On the first layer, we have the option to plank this is sections, so this is what I did with the lengths of lime that butt up against the counter. Not many planks are needed for this one and it planks real quick.



 
 
The stern board is now fitted. This is engraved with the timbers position so it's not ambiguous. 

 
 
If you've built a VM kit before, you'll know the format of the keel with the outer facing parts that form the rabbet. All sections are now fitted and clamped.

 
 
The outer stern counter is now glued. You can never have too many clamps...

 
 
Both outer bulwarks are now fitted. This also has a lower engraved line near the bottom. That is the indicator for where to fit the lower rail. That rail covers the joint between bulwark and regular planking. The hull is then planked in pear and the stern board frame added.



 
 
Always check your hull to make sure it's sanded nice and smooth. Touch is definitely as useful as the eye when it comes to this. In fact, I rarely look at the lower hulls for smoothness and instead feel for unevenness. 

 
 
MDF bulkhead ears are now removed and the area sanded flush to deck.

 
 
Talking of decks, the engraved deck is now fitted. This was a precise fit that only needed the char edge removing. 

 
All timberheads are fitted. These are identified from 'A' at the bow, working backwards. Only a little bevelling is needed at the bottom in some areas. Some timberheads that have a rail fitted, are installed as a single piece to aid proper spacing. The spacing rail is then snipped off afterwards.

A short update as I continue with the upper deck guns.
 
The barrels are completed and when placed on the carriages with the quoins, I am pleased with the way they look along the ship.
 

 

 
I have used the cap squares provided in the cut, preforming them over a piece of 1.5m brass before they were blackened and then glued into position with CA. To finish off the carriage I added the eyebolt and hinge to those midship guns that are partially visible but only the eyebolt to the others.
The copper eyebolts in the kit, I thought were a bit big for this purpose so I made my own from 28gg black ‘artistic wire’ twisted around a 0.8mm drill.
The hinges are cut down kit eyebolts. This was a bit fiddly but once I’d got a method worked out, it went quite smoothly.
 

 

 
The breeching ropes are 3 times the bore length of the barrel so 120mm for the 18 pounders. I made up the breeching ropes for all 28 guns using the 0.75mm thread provided in the kit, seizing one end to a ringbolt. It is then a bit of an awkward job to thread the rope through the eyebolts on the carriage and wrap it around the cascobel with a false splice before seizing the final eyebolt.
 

 
 
 
 

Made a bit of progress, air vent, some more linoleum decking  and (almost) finished the boat racks . Just a few details missing which will follow later. 
happy weekend
Sascha