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BETAQDAVE

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About BETAQDAVE

  • Birthday 12/25/1949

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Madison, WI
  • Interests
    Previously an avid golfer, swimmer, woodworker, and modeler. Since 2011 restricted to modeling/woodworking in wheelchair.

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  1. His solution on the video has one drawback that is hard to overcome. The bits are so small you would need a microscope to see what you are doing to modify the cutting edge. However, for the larger size bits it would be useful.
  2. I've been having problems with numbered drill bits sized 67 to 80. While they seem to have no problems drilling wood, it appears that metal is another thing all together. Are they just dull or not made for drilling metal? Is it possible to be sharpened or just discarded? Some bits from the same brand new sets are good while others can hardly make a dent in soft brass even after prolonged drilling time. Perhaps it's just a question of getting what you pay for.
  3. Love Or Confusion - Jimi Hendrix (Are You Experienced album) 1967
  4. Jeffery Goes To Leicester Square - Jethro Tull (Stand Up album) 1969
  5. I don’t know how much foam cutting you do Bob, but if it’s a lot, using a hot wire system saves you all that static mess that sticks to everything. When I started making my wife’s X-mas lighted village display scenery those beads were everywhere when I used various saw blades. Saw blades can still be used for texturing, but to get a neat clean cut, a hot wire is the way to go especially when using the thick foam. Micro-Mark has quite a few of these cutters ranging in price from $25 to over $300. I finally went to this unit that consists of a variable heat power station and 4” straight wire cutter made by Hot Wire Foam Factory shown below that cost me $130. They also offer quite a few other accessory cutters.
  6. The fore companionway was next. Having the companionway hatches left open made everything much more involved as more of the insides would be visible and I needed to search quite a bit to find out what the inside even looked like. I tried to incorporate most of the details shown in the following sketch compiled from several illustrations from the internet. The side and closed end walls were made with 3/32” basswood with the end wall arched on the top for the roof. For the open end I took some 3/32” square basswood and routed a 1/32” center groove and glued it vertically to the front edge of the side panels for the pair of drop panel door slabs to slide into. I cut a piece of 3/32” basswood and glued the ends onto the sidewalls with an arch on top to match top of the end wall. This was for the roof support across the middle of the hatch opening to align with the water dam to support the cut off roof boards. At this point the assembly was painted light buff deck house and set aside while I worked on the sliding hatch cover. The 1/32” x 1/16” runners were tapered and a thin groove was cut along the top for the hatch slide anchors made with some thin shim brass. A pair of notches were cut into the inside face of the runners for removing the hatch cover and also notched for the dam. I even notched for the drain holes in the side runners by the dam. After cutting the dam to fit the resulting opening and gluing it between the runners, everything was painted light buff deck house. Now for the roof itself which was made similar to the skylight roof, but with a notch cut out for the roof hatch. One other difference in the roof was that rather than putting any end cap trim on the ends of the roof boards, they were run straight thru. Then of course it was finished similar to the deck boards. Once dry, the roof and runner assemblies were glued up with carpenters glue and set to dry. As you may have noticed by now, I am a strong believer in painting or finishing the individual pieces before assembly, which even at this small scale still allows a sharp division between the different finishes without masking. (I must admit that I got a bit carried away here, adding so many details that would not be visible on the finished model, but at least I know they are there.) While this portion was drying, I had to make the sliding hatch cover. Once again I glued narrow strips of 1/32” basswood over the cambered waxed form with filter paper. For the hatch cover I didn’t put finished trim pieces across the ends of the boards, I just trimmed them off square. This was then stained, finished and allowed to dry. Taking some 1/32” basswood strips that I sanded a camber on the top edge, cut these to length and notched the ends for the shim brass hatch slide anchors and attached them with AC glue. Now I used 2 strips of 1/32” square basswood to serve as the slide covers. All of these parts were then painted in light buff and glued onto the bottom of the hatch cover. A tiny bit of blackened copper was also glued on with AC to the top of the cover for the upper latch. As the companionways were to sit on top of the coamings, I made a sill stop of 1/64” basswood to sit on top of the coaming for the drop panels. The rear companionway was a little different than the one on the foredeck in that the open end had stepped down into the cockpit area, but otherwise was made similarly. Since there was no coaming inside the cockpit, I made a sill from 1/32” basswood with a 1/64” sill stop. Here are some photos below of the fore and aft companionways. The entrance doors for the companionways were made with two separate pieces: an upper and lower drop down panel. I made each of the door panels with two layers of 1/64” grooved plywood glued together with carpenters glue. On the outer face of the panel the grooves were run vertically and the inner face they were run horizontally. I cut the panels to size, leaving a 1/64” rabbet where the panels overlapped and an arch on the top edge of the upper panel to match the curve of the sliding hatch covers. These were stained, sealed and set aside for later installation. The following four photos are of the finished door panels. The first shows the outside faces, the second the inside faces, the third shows how they appear when joined together, and the final photo shows how I plan to display them by the forward companionway on the finished model. The cockpit walls were carefully cut and filed on the open end so the walls were able to terminate at the sides of the companionway walls. And finally, I cut and fit some of the 1/64” plywood to serve as the inside wall facing and at the same time serve as a guide to slip the companionways into their coamings. I still need to make the access ladders and decide how to finish the insides. If painted dark, it would hide most of the detail inside; while if painted a lighter finish I would need to see what other details would be visible. At this point I’m not sure, more internet searching may be needed here I guess. The deck houses and cockpit wall assemblies were all removed now and set aside at this point.
  7. You've Made Me So Very Happy - Blood Sweat And Tears (Blood Sweat And Tears-Blues II album) 1969 This was a gold record version of 1967 recording by Brenda Holloway and recorded by close to 20 others since.
  8. I guess they need guns to protect their stash of TP.
  9. So, for something a little less nerve racking now, I moved on to the building the skylight. All of the deck structures were built with basswood and separate from their coamings to protect them while working on the rest of the model. I drew up three versions of its construction before choosing the one closest to the layout shown on the plans. The walls were built first using 1/32” x 1/16” as a bottom plate arranged in a simple jig set up to hold it together as a flat rectangle with butt joints in the corners while glue up with carpenters glue. When the glue set up it was removed from the jig and reloaded with more of the 1/32” x 1/16” material, but I made the butt joints offset from the arrangement of the bottom plate. This was then glued and dried. Using a small square, I laid out the arrangement of the vertical posts and glass bars on the plates making three openings on the sides and two on the ends. Each opening had two bars apiece. The posts were made of 3/32” lengths of 1/32” x 1/16” glued between the top and bottom plates. But, before I assembled the walls, the plates were stacked on top of each other and taped together. Using a #68 bit the holes for the glass bars were drilled thru the top plate and not quite thru the bottom with my Dremel drill press to assure alignment of the holes. Now the plates were glued up with the posts glued in between and the assembly was painted light buff deckhouse. Once dry, I inserted short lengths of some hard black wire for the glass bars through the holes and applied an additional plate on top of the end walls shaped with the camber for the roof that was also painted. I drilled for and installed four small brass locating pins into the bottom of the assembly for later attachment to the coaming. For the glass, I took some clear plastic from a packaging shell and cut it for a force fit inside the skylight frame so that I wouldn’t have to use glue that might obscure the plastic. To make the roof of the skylight I cut some very narrow strips of 1/32” basswood which I put over a cambered waxed form covered with coffee filter paper. I used some wood glue on the paper and assembled the strips edge to edge and let dry. The filter paper was very thin but when glued to the planks the assembly held together quite well. (Although the filter paper got quite wet with the glue, it didn’t wrinkle up at all.) This assembly was then trimmed with end caps that were fit and glued on. I finished these roof planks the same as I treated the deck planks and when it was glued onto the walls it had a much more realistic look to it than my first attempts which had been cut from a sheet and scribed. Here are some pics of the finished skylight below. For the wheelhouse, I cut off the end of a piece of basswood that was formed to match the required W and L dimensions so that no end grain would be visible. One end was then tapered and filed down to form the roofs sloping cambered top. A piece of 1/64” square basswood was cut and fit for the trim piece. The face of the wheelhouse was drilled for the ships wheel shaft. The assembly was then painted light buff deck house. Since the roof on the wheelhouse was much thinner than the other deckhouses, I used some of my grooved 1/64” plywood instead. Since the grooves were too far apart, I scribed lines in between them. The roof was stained and finished like the decking on the top and the perimeter of the bottom. Once dry, it was glued on by clamping it with a cushioned pad on the roof side to ensure it would follow the shape. The edges of the roof were then finished; the wheel was painted a dark brown and glued on with medium CA. Below are a couple of photos of the completed wheelhouse.
  10. I’ve built and sold several tall ships in both plastic and wood before. But having reviewed the kit directions and Chuck’s practicum, I decided to look for more info on this ship before going any further. I also read How To Build First-Rate Ship Models From Kits by Ben Lankford and decided that I wanted to incorporate some improvements to the kit as there seemed to be some uncertainties about many of the details of the Phantom anyway. For one thing, since having searched quite a bit for info on these pilot boats in that era, it seemed that since almost all of them had one or two small boats onboard to transfer the pilot to the ship in need, I decided to add one to this ship. I found some pilot boats had what they referred to as pilot yawls, which had partial clinker built planking. Then I looked for and found info on it and decided to put one of these on the deck. So far I haven’t worked on this yet. After recently reviewing the impressive scratch build of the Eagle by Pete Jaquith on MSW, I found that a lot of the modifications that I had already added to my build were not really as original as I once thought. I took the solid carved hull, removed the bulwarks, and shaved the hull down to the inside of planking as far down as the line of the copper sheathing. Then I installed the shear strakes, notching for the timberheads thru the strakes and into the hull. When I finished installing my hull planks, I applied some strips of my stock basswood for bulwarks and put in the scuppers by omitting the bottom plank at the openings. On reflection later, I think that I should have put a bit of a bevel on the edges of the planks so they would stand out better. Once it was painted black, it was hard to discern that they actually were individual planks and not a solid hull. It seemed like a bit of wasted effort there, but as I had never planked a hull before it was fun anyway. Since this kit was a solid wood hull model, I started by making templates for the hull and keels. I selected the templates at stations four and seven and constructed this simple cradle shown below that was made with some 1/8” foam core poster board to support the ship during construction. Early on I decided to build up the bulwarks by adding the stanchions with planking applied to them, rather than carving them out, so these were removed right away. Once they were removed, I proceeded to slowly carve and sand the hull into shape using the templates to guide me. When I was finally satisfied, I cut, shaped and fit the keel, stem and sternpost until they fit properly and attached them with wood glue and nails. As far as the deck of the ship goes, Model Shipways changed what I considered to be a prominent feature of the ship by not recessing the sunken cockpit and just substituting some metal coamings and leaving the deck flush. One could easily see that the ships wheel would not have any clearance with the deck, especially since the deck grating provided with the kit was so thick. So I decided to throw out the metal cockpit coamings and rout the floor down another foot to scale as was mentioned by Chuck in his practicum. To do this I traced the outline on the plans of the inside face of the cockpit walls and added 1/32” outside of that outline. This new outline was located on the deck and transferred to the surface. Using my Dremel drill with the routing accessory set at 1/8” depth, the recess was cleaned out to that line. Now that that was done the next thing I did was to discard the scribed decking sheets! For one thing, the decking layouts shown on the plans could never be done with a sheet. The stern decking was supposed to follow the curve of the hull and the decking on the foredeck needed to be nibbed into the shear strake. For another thing, even on a deck with all the planks running parallel to each other, the grain of the wood would make it all too obvious that it was not made up of individual planks. After all, we are for the most part trying to make it look realistic! So I cut enough 1/32” x 3/32” strips of my stock of basswood in 20 foot to scale lengths to use for all of the decking. I started on the fore deck. The first step was to mark the location of the deck beams below and a centerline on the hull. The outline of the coaming for the companionway was also marked. The shear strakes were then steam bent to follow the edge of the hull. These were tacked into place temporarily. I marked the location of all the stanchions on the strake and cut a notch for every third one. Those notches were extended into the hull below about 3/8”. Then the individual planks were set in place, starting with the two on each side of the centerline after first rubbing a #2 lead pencil along the ends and edges to represent the caulked joints. All of the planks were glued down with carpenters glue in a three butt shift pattern. I continued installing the decking, alternating from one side to the other, cutting notches in the strake and tapering the ends of the decking where nibbing was needed. Rather than having the end grain exposed on the face of the step in the decks, I shaved the face back 1/32” and installed the decking up to the new face. The decking was omitted over the marked location of the companionway. A 1/32” thick strip of basswood was steam bent and installed to cover that end grain that was shaved back earlier. It was installed overlapping the decking on the fore deck and trimmed off at the top of the step. Moving on to the aft deck, the centerline and locations of the beams below were drawn on the hull along with the outlines of the coaming for the skylight, companionway and wheelhouse. I steam bent the shear planks on the sides and cut a piece to fit across the stern. Once again these strakes were marked, notched for the stanchions, and temporarily tacked in place. Next, I glued down a 1/32” x 1/16” strip of basswood with a slight overlap of the step facing for the edge plank. Once the glue was allowed to set, the planking here was laid similarly to the fore deck. However, the deck pattern here required the planks to be steam bent and laid down parallel to the shear strakes. Alternating from one side to the other, the decking was laid toward the center until they met in the middle in a herringbone pattern at the stern. At this time decking was also laid on the floor of the cockpit. Before finishing the decking, all of the tacked down shear strakes were temporarily removed. Using the ends of the beam lines previously marked and now revealed, a flexible straight edge was lined up and using a sharp HB pencil lead, I lightly poked a slight depression in the decking and twisted the point around a bit to make a representation of the treenails. The decks were then scraped smooth and given a coat of Minwax light oak finish that I let set briefly and then the excess was wiped off with a soft cloth. The decks were sanded with #400 wet/dry sandpaper and given two coats of matt finish polyurethane that was lightly sanded smooth. The caulking and treenail impressions left showing, provided a nice bit of detail even though it’s a little out of scale. It looked good to me, so I was happy with it anyway. To leave me more room to work, I decided to skip doing the bulwarks until the deck houses and some of the fittings were finished. Trying my hand at making the deck furniture from solid blocks as called for in the kit, I was not at all happy with the results. Thinking that I could certainly do a better job than that, these were quickly trashed. Seeing that the cockpit had already been carved out, I decided that I could also leave the companionway hatches open and make the interior of the skylight visible. Of course this meant that now I would also have to carve out the spaces below them. If I was going to do this, now was the time to do it. So…… once again I broke out the router and chisels and went to work. Once these areas were carved out, I also thought that putting decking on the floors would be a good touch. Although it wouldn’t be all that visible once the deck houses were put in place, I installed it anyway. I also lined the interior walls with some grooved 1/64” plywood. Same reason I guess. Moving on now to the coamings, I selected some 1/8” square basswood strips from my stock. I cut the pieces to size, cutting half lap joints for the corners. I assembled them with wood glue and set them aside to dry. After the glue set up, I filed a slight bevel on the outside edges. The coaming for the rear companionway was quite troubling at first until I realized that it terminated on the main deck where it ran into the cockpit walls. There were no coamings around the cockpit walls at the main deck or the walls inside the cockpit. At this time it was time to decide what kind of color scheme I would use. Since this was to be my version of the ship, I planned to deviate somewhat from what the kit suggested. I would introduce a bit more contrast, by making the coamings and the shear strakes a light green color, rather than the light buff deck house that would be used on the remaining deck house walls and the inside of the bulwarks. The roof, hatches, cockpit walls, and the cap rails would all be stained with Minwax light oak and then two coats of matt finish polyurethane. So now all of the shear strakes were given a couple coats of the light green (from my last remaining bottle from Floquil) on the areas that would be visible and they were finally glued in place. The coamings were also painted with the light green paint where they would be visible and then set aside until needed. Returning now to the cockpit, the first step was to cut a strip of wax paper followed with a strip of paper coffee filter and line the cockpit walls with them. I ripped some very narrow strips of 1/32” basswood to use for the vertical panels. I cut several pieces of them long enough to reach from the decking on the cockpit floor to the bottom of a cap rail 1/8” above the upper deck. These were then glued to the paper filter lining on the walls for the inside panels and left there to dry thoroughly. Once dry, I cut several more pieces for the outside panels long enough to reach from the upper deck to the top of the inside wall panels already in place. These pieces were then glued to the outer face of the inside wall panels with their joints offset from the joints on the layer below. Confused? Well, this actually left me with a cockpit wall above the upper deck 1/16” thick and 1/32” thick below the upper deck. The top of this double thickness wall was sanded even for the application of the wall cap. With the coffee filter paper glued between the layers to hold it together and the wax paper preventing the assembly from sticking to the wall of the pit, it could be slipped out of the pit in one piece. This allowed me to trace the outline on a piece of stiff card to make a template for making the cap rail. I took the resulting outline as the finish outside edge of this cap and drew the inside edge to the required finish width of the cap. I made the cap in five pieces and even made scarf joints with two quarter knee pieces at the corners so no end grain would be exposed. (They were only about 1/16” long!) I sliced a 1/32” strip of maple from a piece of ¾” maple and sanded it down to 1/64” thickness for making the cap rail. Once it was glued down to the template with rubber cement and with carpenters glue at the joints, I set it aside for a few days to be sure it was held together good. Very carefully it was separated from the template and glued to the top of the cockpit wall while it was set in the recess. Wow, wasn’t that easy? This whole assembly was then removed to be stained and sealed. Oh wait, the ends of the wall assembly would still need trimming to join into the sidewalls of the rear companionway. I can hardly wait! Showing it to the Admiral, she thought I was nuts!!! Here is a photo of the cockpit walls with the cap rail already applied.
  11. Since the Pandemic was declared on Friday (The 13th go figure.) it looked like I would have quite a bit of time available to actually write up a log for this ship that I started way back in 2013. At that time I was still getting my feet wet so to speak with computers. Writing a log, coordinating it with pictures and sending it through the computer was way out of my comfort zone back then. But since I started with my hybrid model of the 1:87 whaler Wanderer by Aurora and am doing a log for that during construction, I thought I’d do sort of a retroactive log of the construction of my Phantom. Since I am quite a ways into the build already, most of it is from memory and my notes. Eventually the log will catch up with the build, but as I am building both ships at the same time, it will undoubtedly take quite a while. Also, the photos were taken recently rather than during actual construction, so they will be mostly out of sync with the log. So without further ado here goes nothing.
  12. Or perhaps your own!!!
  13. Are You Happy - Iron Butterfly (In-A-Gadda-Da-Vida album) 1968
  14. I'm Happy Just To Dance With You - The Beatles (A Hard Day's Night album) 1964

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