gieb8688

Nils, I found,or rather my wife found, my picture of my Titanic. Turns out I built it 20 years ago. The plans were French but I got them from Taubman. The model is scratchbuilt. Bill

only a small update today...
 
soldering the 14 ea. port side coalport doors, the starboard ones are already mounted...
 
 
Nils
 

 
the holding device is of good help when soldering with the flame
 
 

 
clean surfaces, the right amount of flux and careful, steady heating up provides a good joint
 
 

 
all 14 doors done, a cleaning with aceton shall follow next

little update..
 
- a look into the hull
- a trial for painting the hull
- the "riveting" of the bowpost
- "glassing" the porthhole inserts (procedure)
 
Nils
 
 
 
 

 
here a dive deep down into the ship`s belly
 

 
aft section with the two drive shafts coming to the inside
 
 

 
this is the tape I intend to use for taping the painting borderline (not pleased with it yet), will have to improve the technique. Also the black color should be more dull, will do next trial with dull black oven-paint. The critical part is to get a good tape contact over the rivet rows, so that the paint does`nt creep under the tape.
The red paint is RAL 3000, silk-surface glaze, when drying
 
 

 
 

 
bowpost "riveting" is done around the bend
 
 

 
Am quite pleased with the result....
 
 

 
here using trimming line for grass-cutter for the "glassing" of the portholes
 
 

 
Cutting off a length
 
 

 
ready for final trimming
 
 

 
cut off directly at the porthole insert. "Glass" surface will be sunk in appr. 0,6 mm afterwards into the tube

Build log part 24
 
Here is a little update....
 
Nils
 
 

 
dry fitting the supporting I-beams for the promenade deck in this area
 
 

 
The 10 stachions per side are small brass tubes where the copper pins go through, the pin-heads are interlocked within the deckstripes above, and are hidden by the (to be glued on) coamings of the deck planking later on
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
the white primered scupper / throughpass in the bulwark is for the mooring cables when the ship is at the kay. There are three of these on each ships side
 
 
 
 
 

The Last Job
The ships boats were put into the cradles and tied down. JOB DONE.
Just the final photo shoot to do.
Which will not be until the end of November as we are on holiday for three weeks 3rd to the 22nd.
 
chocks for the small cutter

ready to tie down

Two boats tied down


 
Three tied down




All done




 
 

Hi All

 

Things have been a bit slow again this week as I’m still trying to sort my workroom out, but I did manage to get the cannons completed.

 

I was originally in two minds whether to fully rig the cannon or just rig the breeching ropes, but I finally decided to go for the latter.  The carriages are one piece milled wood which look a bit chunky, but after fitting a couple of rigging eyes and the straps that hold the cannon, don’t look too bad.

 



 

For the rigging I used what I think are called ‘Zip seizing’, a nice little tip from the ‘Ship Modelling for Dummy’s’ website (well worth subscribing to).  If anyone is unfamiliar with them, it’s simply thread wound around a suitable diameter bar and soaked with cyano, I use the dead cheap stuff you can buy by the gallon and is usually only good for sticking fingers.  Once removed you have a nice tube which you can run your thread through.  A little tip, I found that if you clean the bar with fine grade wire wool and rub the tiniest amount of beeswax on before making the seizing, they come off dead easy.  For the length of the breeching rope I made up a little jig.  I’ve added some images to give you the idea.

 



 



 



 

The carriages are dowelled to the deck with a toothpick and that’s about it. 

 



 



 

So, short but sweet, I’m hoping this time next week the hull will be all about there.  Then it’s on to the masts, yards and rigging.

 

Cheers

 

Martin

 

Hello dear colleagues and friends.
Many thank you for the appreciation of my work. However, I want to express my gratitude to the master who made showcase and lighting for the ship. His name is Denis.

I continued with the work on the bridge

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
I fixed also the electrical system for the feeding of small leds

 

 

 

little progress. Nothing is fixed

 

 

 

a little progress:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I finished the final bonding of the beams

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the same year in Venezuela, my brother and I would go over our neighbors house which was like visiting Captain Nemo. An old Indonesian engineer who decorated his house with things of the sea. Diving bell suit, blow fish as lanterns, giant sea turtles shells on the wall. Etc. In his spare time he built large scale ships from scratch! He had done several and are now in museums in Caracus. Only one photo survives of him that I have...      

Finished on the back end rigging. The only rigging left will be on the davits. The ship will now go into the drydock for a while whilst I do up the armament, davits and torpedo net booms.
 
There are a lot of guns and I will be doing up both the Artwox offering and the Komplet Zip ones (aftermarket) to see which comes up better.
 
A bit of natural light on the old girl shows it up quite nicely.

Some photos of the real deal

Good morning Denis,
 
Thank you very much for your appreciation,... it takes some time to get all those plates in the right positions and in alignment, whereby the rivet joints must be stagered in vertical direction. Am now downwards at hight of the bilge keels...
the shaft housings and the tailcone are a bit tricky..
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Build log part 21
 
 
Update : begin of metal-plating.....
 
after determining the positions and hights of the horizontal belts with the dummy tapes, the metal plating can begin. I chose the technique with leaving a gap between first and third belt, and then mounting the second overlapping the other two in the riveting areas. The downward next shall be done likewise.....
The rivets are ponced with modul 0,5 watchmakers toothwheel (single-row and tripple-row)
 
 
Nils
 

 
Unfortunately I do`nt have a close up pic of the KWdG riveting, but this is showing a close up of the "Imperator`s" plating
 
 

 
single- and tripple row ponce toothwheels, modul 0,5
 
 

 
larger plates around the stern...
 
 

 
shows the gap between first and third belt
 
 

 
for withstanding the high stresses in length direction, here the second belt`s edges bears riveting fields on top and bottom. The middle section of that belt will take the portholes afterwards
 
 

 
the hull rails are not overplated
 
 

A little update on the plating job....
 
the plates are are rubbed down on the wooden planking by meams of a soft erazor untill all the overlapping joints are thoroughly pressed down, so there will be no trapped air-boils underneath, The rubber debris from the erazor is then wiped away with a soft brush, before the next stripe goes on
 
Nils
 

 
The table guillotine is very handy for straight, clean cuts
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

My favorite in this type of discussion is AL's Constellation.  Billed as the 1797 frigate.  It's not.  The hull is from the 1854 Sloop of War (and are reasonably accurate) and the deck plans, etc., come from the way she sat in the Baltimore harbor for years.  For more info, read "Fouled Anchors....." here's the PDF: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB0QFjAAahUKEwi6963K_ZzIAhVDrIAKHfi3CyI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dtic.mil%2Fcgi-bin%2FGetTRDoc%3FAD%3DADA241916&usg=AFQjCNF9BStwpyR2ty4lvLp4zvFc_tpyTA&bvm=bv.103627116,d.eXY

For a ship determined permanent residence. Russia, Izhevsk. (In this city made Kalashnikov assault rifles).

.... continued.
 
I repainted the deck, fittings and cabin and painted a red stripe down the side to cover my repairs to the bulwarks and also to make it "sing" a bit more :
 

 

 

 
And five minutes ( ) later I had it all re-rigged. It actually took me about a week, as I've had a bad back and couldn't spend more than a couple of hours a day on it :
 

 

 

 

 
For my efforts I'm going to charge a bottle of a nice Single Malt Scotch - it sounds better than asking $80 for the work on a decorative model they bought in a garage sale for $5.00 .
 
Note ; please don't follow any of the rigging I've done on this on your own model - nothing is "authentic", but it looks OK for what it is.
 
  Danny

Hi all,
 
My neighbour just handed me a Yacht that may or may not have been made somewhere in Asia, or could be Scratchbuilt, to do a Restoration on.
 
It's not too bad for what it is - a couple of cracks in the hull (which makes me think Asian), the masts are loose, it's VERY dirty, and the rigging needs re-tying.
 
It shouldn't take me more than a couple of days (where have I heard THAT before? )
 

 

 

 

 

 
 Danny

The deadwood was cut from ply and designed to interlock with and to square up the aft-most frames. Here you can also see the frame positions drawn on the building board as per the frame location lines on the plans and support blocks to help square up the frames.

 

The deadwood was sanded down with a beard line to take account of the planking width to come and the keel had also been given a rabbet with a combination of files, dremel and table saw earlier.
 
The wing transom looks simple but has both a camber across the top and laterally. This was cut from ply and sander in. A slot in the deadwood holds it in and the stern post will lock it into position later.


 
The aftmost frame had slots for the stern supports cut in and the supports added. Like many brigs The cruizer had distinctive chase ports and the supports frame these on one side to help with positioning.


 
The stern was cut from 2mm ply and bent to shape before being epoxied into place.


 
Filler blocks of balsa have been added at the bow and stern and are being shaped as the frames are being sanded in preparation for planking. The stern post is visible in the foreground of the stern pic. It'll be installed when the planking is finished.

Current state of the build with more sanding to come.

After a month of work on my new project it's at the stage where I suspect it might turn into something worth continuing so here it is...
 

 

 
A Cruizer class brig in 1:36 scale which is (hopefully) destined to be a working RC square rigged sailer.
I've kicked this project off before finishing the rigging on my current Granado build after seeing a few build logs and being filled with inspiration and a reckless confidence to simply have a go. It's a good vessel to practice on as it's relatively simple with flush decks, only two masts and little decoration. I can experiment with the rc servos, ballast keel and sail operation once the hull and masts are done and if it works then move on to the nice to have items like head rails, carronades and deck fittings.
 
The cruizer was a possibility for my next scratch build originally planned at 1/64 but I'd helped my father build the 1:20 scale Valdivia schooner kit from Robbe a few years back and being so taken with sailing it that I wanted one of my own.
I'd love a 1:24 scale RC Surprise or cruizer from Steel Chapman and Hutchinson Ltd http://www.modelsailingships.com/ships/grasshopper.html
But it's out of my price range once freight etc is taken into account, hence an effort to scratch build, especially after seeing the very informative logs from Jerry Todd for his Macedonian, Constitution and others.
 
1:36 was chosen as it's large enough to look the part and have some sailing ability and be easily managed with a length of 84cm on the gun deck.
 
If successful with the brig the ultimate goal is a frigate and at 1:36 scale a large vessel like an Artois class frigate of 146 feet on the gun deck would be just manageable for transport and launch at roughly 120cm. But that's pretty optimistic at this stage and I've got a lot to learn yet.
 
The plans for this vessel are those included in EW Petrejus' fine book 'modelling the brig of war Irene' scaled up with bulkhead widths and deadwood for building purposes etc drawn in.
 

 
Using relatively cheap materials was a must for this project as there's still an element of doubt over if it will work. If it doesn't I don't want to feel like it's been a huge investment that fails.
As such the brig will be built from 9mm plywood for the framing with the keel and planking from matai - a New Zealand native timber which is moderately hard enough to hold detail at this scale while still easy to work and has a nice tone although the brig will be painted anyway.
The matai is in the form of old tongue and groove floorboards from a demolition yard that are going for about $6/metre for short lengths that are pretty much unusable for anything else. I can mill these on my table saw and with a home built thickness sander.
 
The hull will be built upside down on a building board for stability and will be cut loose once planked. A base line parallel to the keel a few cms above the max height of the sheer line was drawn on the plans to provide a point from which to measure from. All the bulkheads were drawn with this line as a top (or bottom once upside down on the board) square edge to ensure they would all sit at the correct height from the board and provide a level run for the keel to attach to.

 
A test run of bulkheads on the board.

 
To avoid installing deck beams later these were drawn onto the bulkheads using the camber indicated in Petrejus. The bulkheads were then cut down to ribbing size. In hindsight I should have left the bulwarks above deck ticker to account for the reduction from subsequent sanding but it's nothing major.

 
Most of the framing on the build board here. The keel and stem is matai ripped on a bandsaw and run through my drill powere thickness sander (thanks to MSW member Snowmans for his fine instructions on making one) down to 9mm. The stem was then cut in one piece on the bandsaw and gammoning and bob stay holes/slots drilled.

After sanding prepared and glued inside seats and other elements. This is easy. Painted in black some other pieces. Result today.
 






















 
Regards, Antanas