gieb8688

Thanks Greg,
you are right - not hours but days .
I finished the first part of planking above wales. This part will not be colored, so I used here the treenails.

Thanks to all. The idea for making treenails with needle is not mine, I learned this method from russian modelers .
To rtropp: see enclosed picture - front side of the block with treenail is covered with masking tape, block is cuted off with saw. After removing tape you can easily eject treenails from the block.
After endless hours I finished the hull treenailing. Result will be more visible after waxing.

Thank you Greg.
Although it is not historically accurate, I decided to leave the hull without copper plating. On the other hand, the whole hull will be with treenails. So I started the "mass" production of the pins (about 8,000 pieces).

Thanks to all for nice comments .
So after about a month of hard work is the planking of the hull under wales finally done.

Thanks to all for nice comments.
I slowly continue with planking, about one half is done.

Thank you Greg .
I continue with planking from the opposite side.

So I began planking the hull. It's my first attempt planking in one layer. I'll see what happens, and depending on the result I will decide whether to make copper protection or not. I started with a few plank in keel area.

Thanks to all .
To amateur: I wanted to build a model in scale 1:48. But due to space limitation I chose  a compromise scale 1:52.
 
Now is the time to show the figurehead which made for me Doris (for those who do not know her work http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/854-royal-caroline-by-doris-card-1749-140/?hl=doris).I appreciate very much this assistance because my attempt would probably ended very pathetic.

So I decided to continue on Pandora. I solved before winter whether to use color or not. Finally, the choice fell on a partially colored model and started to spray wales. On the first attempt with airbrush it does not look bad.

Probably the last work before saving Pandora to hibernate - deck in the officers cabin, gluing the main deck beams.

Thank you all for nice comments .
I used usual hypodermic needle with diameter 0,8 mm (21G). Needle is carefully ground to the tip - see pictures. As wood is used pear, a necessary condition is that the wood fibers would be parallel to the needle. Is it possible to make treenails with diameter 0,45 mm (needle 0,7 mm 22G). You can see the comparison between 0,55 and 0,45 treenails in the last picture.

Lower deck - it will not be visible, but I made test how the deck will look with black paper and treenails. I made about 3500 pieces of treenails (diameter 0.55 mm), so I have a sufficient supply for any remaining deck.

Thanks to everyone for the positive feedback. It gives me great encouragement for further work.
I decided to make wales from separated parts. It took me about 40 hours to make and stick 4+4 wales nad 1+1 black strake .

I started the hull planking - the lower counter. It is my first attempt to planking the hull in one layer.

Hi Omega1234,
thanks for nice comments.
 
Making of the rudder, hardware - pintles, gudgeons etc. will be added later.

I added the quarter deck transom, lower sill for lights (windows) and helm port.

Preparation for mounting the bowsprit. - only the third attempt was successful.

Hi Daniel,
thank you for compliment .
Finished reinforcement the upper parts of the bulkheads, "transom" and stern post.

Jan and Dave,
 
thanks for comments.
Bulkheads are now glued to the keel.

Hi Antony,
thank you for your compliment .
I continue with the production of external keel. It is made of individual parts which are glued together.

Thank you all for the motivations
 
Today I finished the Self Inflatable Liferafts. I remeber my father (who was a fisherman) called them dinkys. It has two plastic shells which are bond together and in between is the liferaft. The liferaft is stored in a steel cage which can be tilted over to release the raft in the sea. In the water the  raft inflates and a rope keeps the raft close to the ship.
 

Kind Regards, Kees

A little more progress..........
 
Having marked the waterline on the hull I realised my previous sequence had missed the vital step of making a building cradle. I had a look around the workshop and came across the discarded cradle from Endeavour. The fuller hull of Altair was fortuitous as a few quick cuts with the jigsaw transformed the cradle into one suitable for this build. (I used the frame templates from earlier to get the correct cradle profile).
 
With the hull finally the correct way up I set about the task of removing the building board. You may recall not all the frames were glued to the board and I had marked the glued frames so I knew where to cut.
 
While cutting away the building board I mused on the various removal stages and decided to name them for fun:-
 
1 THE AIRCRAFT CARRIER STAGE. (Illustrious class I think)
 

 
2 SAWING THE FAT LADY IN HALF STAGE. (Taking care not to get carried away)
 

 
3 THE CHINESE JUNK PHASE.
 

 
4 THE GALLEON PHASE (Forecastle still to be built)
 

 
Having removed all of the building board I started on the frames - the aft most frame removed to deck level.
 

Having completed and finish sanded 1st planking I had a few things to sort out about future stages. After some thought I decided on the following sequence:-
 

 
1 Drill the hole to take the prop shaft.
2 Mark the waterline.
 
I wanted to compete items 1 and 2 while the hull was still attached to the building board - so that I had a reference datum for the 2 operations.
 
The sequence continues with:-
 
3 Remove the hull from the building board.
4 Trim the frames to size at deck level.
5 Mount the 1/16th inch ply sub deck, with cut outs for the deck house, skylights and hatches.
6 Plank and finish sand the deck.
7 Mount the 3 layers of 1/32 inch ply which form the bulwarks and the sculpturing of the hull sides.
8 2nd plank the hull. (Having manufactured the planks from mahogany).
 
This lot should take care of the next few months.
 
Staring with the prop shaft which is asymmetric - sitting on the port side of the hull.
 
The prop tube is 3/8 inch diameter, angles downwards at an angle of 6 deg and outward from the centre line  at an angle of 8.5 degrees. See Photo.
 

 
I didn't feel comfortable trying to drill this by eye, so I manufactured a simple jig consisting of 2 parallel MDF boards, separated by 3 inch, drilled with offset holes the alignment of which gave the compound angle necessary for drilling. I did have to revert to a bit of school room trigonometry which taxed the brain cells more than I expected (a bit worrying). See Photo.
 

 
Having positioned the jig so that the drill intersected the hull at the correct point I then clamped it in place and drilled the hull with a 3/8 inch by 18 inch long auger drill. To keep things under control I took my time and hand drilled using a woodworking brace. The photographs illustrate the procedure.
 



 
 
 

I have now completed the 1st planking on both sides of the hull - so far so good. Although I had thought that I would revert to narrower planks at some stage, in the end I found it to be unnecessary.
 
Before sanding I roughly drew pencil lines on the hull to act a sanding guide. Sanding to remove the pencil lines enables me to achieve a smooth finish while avoiding sanding through of the planks.
 


 
I have completed the sanding of one side - it took about an hour and a half using coarse grit emery cloth on a cork block.
 


 
The bow and stern shots show the before and after.
 


 
I have abandoned sanding - family are arriving soon and they plan to stay for at least a week. Boat building has to be curtailed for some time.
 
 
 
 

Hi Pete, John and HArtmut. Thanks for your encouragement on my planking efforts.
 
Its time for a progress update.
 
I thought I would get the difficult bit out of the way and continue with the tapered planks around the hulls belly. The photos are fairly self explanatory so I'll cut down on dialogue.
 




 
The final closure plank is always the most tricky to get right and I have developed the "black finger method" to make it easier.
I start by loosely laying a piece of printer paper over the hole to be filled. Running a finger over the paper above the hole creates an indent which accurately represents the shape of the closure plank. 
 

 
I find it really hard to see the profile of the plank once the paper is removed so I shave some graphite from pencil and rub my finger in it.
 

 
I then rub my finger over the paper and this gives me a very visible profile for the closure plank.
 

 
I then cut out the profile to make a template.
 

 
The template is transferred to a plank and glued in place using a glue stick.
 

 
The plank is cut out, finish sanded to fit and then glued in place.
 


 
Now I can proceed with the easier task of planking the keel.