isali
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This is in the future of modeling. Many of us will continue carving wood or clay but many will opt for the ease of designing (or buying) pre fab sculptured parts, just like we buy brass parts now.
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Has anyone used three d printing for scrollwork and figureheads? Ira
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I recently got a Proxxon Saw. It came with a single blade, maybe 36 teeth and is pretty wide. I am looking for recomendations on blades which would be good for - making planks - Dado or grooves - lap joint - Grooves or Dado I don't know how many teeth, what kerf, etc. It seems tehre is a lot of info on larger blandes online but not much on mini- saw blades. Any thoughts are appreciated, Ira
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It is a good ruling, if I pay for something I should have the legal right to resell it. The precedent has always been that the right belonged to the older of the media. In a case like Bob Hunt, he elicitly asks that it not be resold and wants to make that a par of the "property". Legality aside, we each have our own decision to make when it comes to reselling a practicum. For many of us, if we commit that we won't resell it, we won't but the world isn't perfect. Personally, the relationship and assistance from with like bob along with a the promise not to resell, are more important than recouping my money. In the extreme, all the small businesses would disappear if everyone resold.
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I follow a number of topics and the forums have been incredibly helpful to get ideas, learn from others mistakes and undo my own. I will hopefully begin a log with my next project. I am looking at building one of the Bob Hunt practicums, maybe Ratlesnake, The DLumberyard has a great premium wood add on, which I like for a wood finished model, Do I really need the Kit? I am thinking if I buy the wood add on, I can make the rest of the parts I need, (Masts, yards, keel, deck furntiures, etc) I can buy the blocks, tackle and other bits, and make my rope. There are two questions, 1) is there anywhere to get the scrollwork, and other parts, traditionally carved. I tried carving and at this point I am not really to the point of making high quality parts. 2) has anyone gone through this excercise of comparing the costs of the parts to the whole? If the they are close, I would just buy the kit rather than track down every little thing. I suspect it would be close but when you add in the cost of the premium wood, and not using the kit wood, I may get a different conclusion, I have built a few models anhd kit bashed (usually to correct errors) enough that I am not worried about making my own bulkheads and other parts. Thanks Ira
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Thank you all for the ideas, I am getting gaps in the second layer, and as I do more and more of the hull, the gaps are getting smaller. I am getting better at spilling and angling the edges : "Experience in progress". I will likely start a blog with my next model;, this one has really become more of a learning curve project. WIth the blog, others can learn from experience and the level of detail in getting help is much deeper. Thanks Again
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First, although I do not post much, I appreciatre all the knowledge on these boards. I don't have to post much because often I find what I am looking for. Thanks to all I am working on a Blue Jacket Jeff Davis,. I have not done a project in some time so every imperfection is a learning experience (and I have a lot of learning experiences) Currenly, I am adding the second layer of planks to the hull. My cutting and shaping has gotten better but there are a lot of gaps in the planling, small, but larger than just seams. The model will be are wood, so I do not have the luxury of bondo and paint. before experimenting with wood filler, then sanding, leaving the filler in just the gaps, I was wondering if anyone had the trouble and what they did, THanks Ira
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