Aussie048

Some pics of the completed quarter badge with window unit bonded in place
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I had a bit of a 'late one' last night.Far to late to spark the saw up so I decided I would produce a 'prototype' window to prove my plans would work.The frame was made out of 0.8mm square box strip sanded a little further to reduce it's size.I managed to produce half lap joints using a sharp scalpel and jewellers file.I was keen to do this because otherwise the glazing bars never seem to line through no matter how hard you try.
The casting has been cut out and the back heavily reduced in thickness with a burr to thin out where the window will fit.
The frame was then bonded with a bead of CA around it's perimeter to a piece of mica.Matt poly has the then been applied ensuring a meniscus was formed inside the individual panes.As ever,a picture explains a thousand words,to be continued once the varnish has hardened off
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Michael Work may still be in fits and starts over the next few months but hopefully things should settle down by Christmas
A few pics.I have started to assemble the transom support work to reflect the kit's drawings.Not a great deal of changes required as I hadn't go as far as extending the hull sides to accommodate the overhanging upper deck and balcony.This is one area where I will be deviating from the kits design,mainly for ease of construction.There is supposed to be a piece of curved ply on the transom face with a large casting bonded on top featuring the windows.Careful study of the casting has made me realise there is an easier approach as I want my windows opening out instead of painted on.
Plan is to remove the vertical carved detail from the casting and bond it on afterwards.Also planking straight on to the framework makes the stern counter transition easier to accomplish as both faces will be covered by the same thickness material.The counter is carved from a solid block in the kit but I would like to have the option of having the gunports open.
I have started the transom framework paying attention that the vertical members fall centrally behind the window pillars and carvings.Epoxy and copper pinning has been used as this needs to be solid before I finish fairing the hull.Once this is complete I will move to the counter framing which will double as lining for the four stern chasers.Then,finally I came shape the round tuck and get rid of that square end to the filler blocks
Other conclusions have been drawn now I have the armament for my lower deck,but will cover these when I get to that stage,too much for one post  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a couple of pics to illustrate the multipiece casting approach I mentioned earlier.The cast rivets can be seen on the inside although not as clear as in real life as the peening marks can be made out.Yes I have a solution for the windows,like I say all will be revealed in due course
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I worked on the Brodie Stove and Charlie Noble today. I made it out of maple and brass. It was a fun project. I know the details of this will not be seen once it is installed in the ship, but I know they will be there. I will install the Charlie Noble once the main deck is in.

I have completed framing in the cabin walls and doors on the ship. Still to be done on this deck are the sail bin, the Brodie Stove, and the various accouterments for the cabins. I still need to do some research for the various storage rooms. Typically there would be one for each of the Carpenter, Gunner and, Boatswain. Since the Eagle was on a fresh water lake, there was no need to have large storage areas for water, however, food, armaments, and rigging were still required to run the ship.
 
 

I have been working on a number of fronts since the last update. I built out the Midshipmen's cabin. This allowed me to work out the specifics on how I was going to build out all the cabins. While each cabin is unique, they will still be similar in what will need to be built. 
While there were three midshipmen on the Eagle's partial roster listing, there could have been four. Either way, they would have all probably bunked in the same room. However given the smallness of the space, I only provided two bed spaces. They would probably have hot bunked (at least on my version) since at least one would have been on watch at any given time.

I put in a small chest of drawers and a washstand. I formed the wash basin by punching brass down into the center of a steel washer with a large punch. Then I would cut the outer rim out of the square and use the rotary tool to finish shaping. I made enough basins for each of the officers cabins.

I spent some time working on a suitable mattress for the beds. The officers would have had straw mattresses. I finally carved mattresses and painted them. This keeps from having too course of fabric for the scale and keeps the soft materials out of the model. 

After I finished the cabin, then I started work on the next one aft, including the doorway to the officer's wardroom. The ship had 5 ½ feet of headspace which was actually more than other ships of the time such as the Peacock (4.5 feet). The doors still end up being about 4 ½ feet tall.

While this seems very short, it was not. In Sydney a few years ago, I went aboard the replica of the Endeavor. I actually had to get down on my hands and knees to get to the captain's cabin and could not stand totally straight once I got in there. These guys were not claustrophobic! Imagine having a full crew, provisions, and gear crammed into those spaces and living like that for months if not years at a time.

Once I had all the cabin walls installed I spent time making all the doors needed for the remainder of the berth deck spaces. I do not plan on building out the interior of the remaining cabins until all the walls and doors are in place.

Here are two shots of the door to the wardroom almost ready for installation.







And here is the same door installed looking each way.









Doors are ready. Now I just have to frame the walls in and make the hardware for them.





Here are two shots showing the two cabins currently done. The midshipmen's cabin is complete.





 

I have started work on the cabins by building the magazine since it is central to the ship. This is a very busy room and normally a very secure room. However in this ship, there is no room to have a remote magazine. So based upon all the materials I placed it just behind the pump well. 
While the ship was built quickly, care of the powder would have been paramount so I spent some time accessorizing the magazine. I used a blackened brass plate to mimic the lead flooring and cut it out so the area beneath the magazine would be visible.

According to the TFFM a keg of powder would be 19" tall by 15" wide. At scale this would be 10mm x 8mm. I used oak dowel to turn the kegs. Once turned I cut slots in the sides with a scalpel to show the staves and black pin striping to make the hoops. I also used the dowel to make a bucket and passing box to hang on either side of the door. I created a light window that would be accessed from the officers wardroom. I used slide covers to cut glass for the light cupboard glazing. 

I made racks to go along the starboard side to store the cartridge trays. Each of the 10 trays was built as a shallow tray with 5 separators and would hold 18 cartridges each. Since the cartridges were hand sewn on the ship I wanted them to look to be of similar size, but to not be cookie cutters of each other since each cloth cartridge would look slightly different from handling.

I finally figured out a method for cutting thin strips of the same fabric I used for my Connie's hammocks. This was a paper cloth that I stained with tea and coffee to be slightly tan. I would take a thin strip and run a line of thick CA down the length. Then I twisted the strip into a cylinder. I would finish it by using a bit more CA and using it to make the cylinder consistent. Once it was dried, I cut them to length with the scalpels. I placed these three to a slot in each of the trays and once filled, glued the trays into the rack and the filled rack into the magazine.

Once the interior was complete, I added shutters to the outside of the light cupboard and hardware for the door. After this was all complete I glued it into the ship. 
 


I stained the first set of cannonballs. I am using chrome ball bearings for these. I have found by heating these red hot with a torch then soaking them in blackening solution. Once stained I used them to fill the starboard shot locker. I filled most of the locker with a block of wood and some extra ballast (suitably glued with CA to make solid). Then I glued the newly stained cannon balls into the top. The lid of this side will be open but will not be glued in until later in the build otherwise it would be easy to break off.
 


I started working on the cabins with the midshipmen's cabin on the port side. This one took a bit of time since I had to work out the joinery to be used in the cabins. I will build the furniture into the cabins once more of the cabins have their bulkheads are completed. The door to the cabin is just sitting in the frame. I think I will change the ventilation holes. They need to be higher and closer together on the door. Once satisfied I will add the hardware to hold the door.
 

I have been focusing on the berth deck construction. After all the deck beams were installed I faired them then started working on the shot locker and pump well. I decided to follow convention and build these as a single unit. I plan on having one of the locker doors open to show cannon balls within. I have not attached the hardware for the hinges yet. Once this was done and the main deck stanchions locations marked I was ready for the next step. Installing ballast.
 
The ballast for the Eagle is known from the records of the ship. They used magnetite ore. It was cheap and readily available and easy to use balance the rig quickly. Once the ship was launched they moved it down river toward the lake. Once they were past the last shallow bar, they added the ballast.
 
There was very little room between the berth deck and the ceiling. Once the ballast was installed there was little to no room for any additional storage. I used model railroad ballast and tested a number of different mixtures. I decided on using the black ballast with a small amount of the iron ore and tan to mix in it for depth. After a couple of tests with glue I mixed 50/50 white glue and water with the mixture and spooned it into the ship. I only added it to one side wanting to show the difference between the ceiling planks on one side and the ballasted ship on the other.
 
Next I started on the deck planking. I used the maple to make the deck strips. I plan on using the cherry and walnut for furniture and details in the cabins. To assess where I wanted to plank I printed out the deck layouts for the cabins and placed this in the hull. Eagle models tend to fall into two categories. There is the kit version which is POB and not very accurate, and the POF models that tend to show very little of the below deck structures. I wanted to provide enough planking to show off the cabins and give the feel of the ship while still leaving enough open to allow the structure of the ship to show. So this is a balance I will be seeking though out the build. I decided to plank the bow and stern fully leaving openings above the keelson where the stanchions attach as well as providing enough planking for the stove and other deck fittings.
 
Once the planking was installed I used a #75 drill to drill the holes for the pins. This would equate to a 1" diameter circle. Still slightly large since these were iron spikes and probably ¾" at the head, but testing showed anything smaller would not show at all. Leaving these brass shows the spikes but does not overpower the planks.
 
Once the deck was pinned and sanded I rubbed the entire ship down with the light stain. This enhances the wood and the joinery. I do not plan on adding anything more to make it darker. I will do  clear coat once the ship is done.
 
This was the test of the ballast. The mixture was too varied here and the black too black. I added enough of the colors to add depth and interest in the hold when seeing the ballast.
 

 
Below is the hull once the light stain was applied.
 

 
The notches below are for the lower ends of the pumps (and below the well). The linear notches running either side are the limber holes feeding the well.
 

 
Here is a close up of the shot locker and pump well. You can also see the pinning. Still some dust from all the sanding showing.
 

 
This shows the differences between the ballasted side and the ceiling side. The small circle on the keelson will be the seating point for the windlass stanchion.
 

 
Here I have started the forward deck planking.
 

 
Here is the completed planking. Now I wills start on the cabins.
 

 

Posted: Sun May 24 2015, 02:44PM
Since adding the ceiling planks I have focused on getting the outside of the frames and keel done other than planking the wales up which will be done later. So I worked on finishing the frame fairing on the outside, then doing the inlays of the butterfly plates on the keel. 











I also spent some time doing the final sanding and backing off most of the stain. As a result, the stain remaining left the keel with a nice patina and shows the joinery.

Once that was done I turned the focus back on the interior. As I mentioned earlier I planed on modifying the mast steps to be more in line with the TFFM. This type of step would have been adjustable while providing more strength in the step. This also falls in line with the bolt patterns found in the wreck. So it is entirely possible it was done something like this.







Once the steps were installed I started mounting the berth deck beams. I decided to install more beams than the practicum. This because I will be installing bulkheads and partitioning the deck for the compartments Crisman discusses in the materials. Since the deck would need to be stable for all the crew and supplies this meant more beams. Once these were installed I added the supports necessary to hold the shot locker and pump well. Due to the weight of the shot and the lightness of the deck beams, the shot locker needs support from the keel up. I added two longitudinal beams under the edges of the locker. 

I also wanted to add scuttle hatches for access to the space under the deck. Since there is no room forward, I added two in the stern area that would be just forward of the aft stairs. I made these by notching in angled carlings and notching the beams to provide a coaming around the hatches. Once installed they will be flush with the deck. I counter sunk the eye rings also in line with the TFFM. Once all were in, I applied a light stain from the clamps down to the keelson of Minwax Golden Pecan. This is the same I used on the decking of my Connie. I found it provides a nice tone and pops without overly darkening the wood.












I also picked up some Model Railroad ballast. I want to use this to show how the magnetite ore was placed in the hull for ballast. I will do some experimentation with both the mix of colors and glue before applying to the model. My nerxt focus will be on the Shot locker and pump well.

Hello Happy Modellers,
 
Here's a couple of photos of where I'm up to.  I've installed the Port side steps and have a couple of the fittings held in place by masking tape - ostensibly so I don't lose them.  I wasn't happy with the steps first time around so modified them by making them smaller than what the instructions suggested and also notched out the strakes to accommodate the steps. 
 
I hope your models are going according to plan,
 
Cheers,
Rowan D.

Today, I was able to complete the Hull Painting , It took 2 coats of flat white, with a base coat.( 3 total )  I will need to touch up the Bottom ( Anti-fouling) Paint. I just unmasked her and here are the results

I was able to complete the installation of all the frames. Tomorrow, I will start the fairing both inside and outside. I also will be adding the clamp to the interior once the interior fairing is complete. The hull is interesting. This follows the "as-Built" documented by Dr Crisman in the keel assembly as well as the frames spacing. Also note the two pair of cant frames near the bow which extend higher than the others. While all the frames will be trimmed, these will still extend above the cap rail to form timber heads per Dr. Crisman's latest book.
I will probably leave the spacers glued into the tops of the frame since that part of the ship will be planked and cover them. The cannon ports will be cut later. The Gantry jig should make this easy both in locating them and squaring the port sides to the keel.

I have also framed the stern, how much of this will be exposed after framing is still undecided.

Once I got a bit beyond the bow section, I was able to start cutting standard form pieces to make the frame blanks. This sped things up dramatically. 
So after cutting a bunch of blank forms I started up the frame pipeline. I would use rare earth magnets to hold the pieces edge to edge while gluing. Once the glue set, I would glue up the side and clamp the two sides together. Once this comes out of the clamps, I cut the template for the frame out and glue it to the surface using thinned white glue.

Once this is dry, I cut the frame out on the bandsaw leaving a small border all the way around. Then it is off to the oscillating sander to sand the frame square to the lines. If this does not have much of a bevel I leave it like this. If there is a large bevel, I will take some of this off with the sander. Then it is back to the bandsaw to cut out the notch for the keel. Then fitting everything to the ship.

The gantry provides a great platform to insure the frame is glued square to the ship in all directions. It also provides a sturdy clamping surface. Since the horizontal member on my gantry is a heavy metal bar, I can also use it as a clamp itself to hold the frame tight to the next one.

I have managed to get all the frames forward of Frame X installed and 2 aft of Frame X. I ran out of the precut frame pieces and had to stop and cut more. Luckily for me, when I ripped a bunch of strips out a few days ago, I guessed pretty close to what I was going to need to get all the remaining frames done. So I cut all of that up today so I can finish assembling and mounting the frames.

I know I have said this before, but I will say it again, the gantry Jig makes it so easy to work on the ship. No guessing dimensions, many checks that can be done from plan lines to squaring everything. I am so glad I let Ray and Dave take me to the REALLY dark side.

Anyway, once the frames I had installed were set, I carefully removed the ship from the jig. I was really curious to see it turned over. The photos of the ship below show a number of things, first, I have a lot of fairing to do on the bow. Once I started in with the square frames, I trusted the lofting lines and sanded square to each one. This should allow me the minimum of fairing. On the other side, It could also mean I have to remake a bunch of frames if I did it wrong, but I think the lofting lines are working.

The other think you can see clearly in these photos, is of the spacing of the frames. I am following the as built so the spacing is different almost every frame. What you can't see clearly here is the first futtocks are all facing aft fro the bow to Frame X. After frame X, they are reversed. This also is following Dr. Crisman's work.

The skinny third frame from the top is Frame X per Dr. Crisman. If you recall, I renumber all of my frames to follow the dissertation. Frame X was the only ½ thickness frame. The double frame shown is just aft of the forward mast. There will be a second double frame underneath the main hatch.

After fairing the hull, I also plan on cutting the limber holes on each side of the keel. These were notches cut into the bottoms of the frames and are also documented by Dr. Crisman.

After gluing up the last frame set I had in the pipeline, I spent the remainder of the day cutting new stock. I have enough cut now to make all the remaining frames.

I was able to get the bow cant frames installed. Now I can work on the square frames. Yeah! I am happy to have all the half frames/Cant frames behind me. I still need to do a bunch of sanding cleanup on the inside and outside of the cant frames. I left more meat on the bones of these. I found it easier to sand them down than to recut them if I beveled them incorrectly when off the ship.
Anyway, here are a couple of photos on the ship where it stands today. The darker frame is the test frame I built before starting the frames. It is standing where my frame X will be.
 

It is smaller. One of the unique parts of this build is I am trying to follow the frame spacing that Dr. Crisman found when documenting the wreck. While the frames were consistently the same size, at least at the 1:48 scale and with a few notible exceptions, they were not evenly spaced. The spacing they did have was well documented by Dr Crisman. The previous models built of the Eagle had the frames evenly spaced per the practicum by Gene Bodnar. Gene simplified the model and intentionally spaced the frames evenly because it looked better and was easier for the first scratch build. While that is true, it is also ignoring the documentation from the wreck. The ship was built quickly (in 19 days) and the wreck showed this. Many of the frames were built of green wood and some still had bark left on the sides. Prior to finalizing my plans I pulled all the frame information that I could from the various publications and calculated the widths at the 1:48 scale to see if I needed to change the sizing of the various frames. However the differences in them were too small to show at the 1:48 scale. However, the spacing between the frames was different enough that it could be shown. My master plan on the build board has the specific spacing shown by Dr. Crisman. The gantry jig allows me to space these according to the plan pretty easily.
 
It might look sloppy in the end, I hope not. My goal is to hopefully show a very imperfect ship, built perfectly for the job at hand. Attached is a photo previously taken of the stern. You can see in the drawing below it the master which shows how the frames are sort of seemly randomly spaced.

I have spent a lot of time working on the stern frames. Most of these frames should have been constructed as half frames. However, I found there was so little deadwood to attach them to they were very weak. After working constructing them and mounting them a number of different ways that left me very unsatisfied, I finally decided to build them as full frames then will modify them over the keel to appear to be the half frames since the frames would have been butted against each other over the keel/deadwood. Cutting a small groove should provide this.
I have done some preliminary fairing, more sternward. I am fairly happy with the way the stern has turned out and now will work on the cant frames in the bow. You can now start to see the frame spacing being unevenly spaced.

Anyway, here are some photos of how she currently sits. Much work still to be done! Since this is my first attempt at scratch, please feel free to jump in with any advice. This is very much a learning project.

I was able to also get the side rails on the stern. Of course the handrails will go over these, but these finish the framing in the stern.  In addition, I added the block for the rudder post to go through as it passes through the stern.
 

Thanks all for following. Kees, your trawlers are nothing short of amazing. I can only strive for your attention to detail!
 
After today I am a solid advocate of the gantry! I built and installed the first frame to be attached to the keel, Frame 35H. These are two half frames immediately forward of the fashion timber. Since the fashion timber has no slot and minimal slot for the keel and , attaching the two half frames allows me to align everything then attach the fashion timber. However the gantry also showed that I was too aggressive in lopping off the tops of my fashion timber. So it is too short. So I will remake it tomorrow. Hopefully as I move along I will stop building by the adage that "the third times the charm".  I am also finding that shaping the frames is getting easier to judge as I go along so this just give me a bit of extra practice. The gantry allows me to very accurately align and square the frames as well as check the level and spacing between the outside edges of the half frames. Using this I was able to see where I needed to adjust the bevels so it fit the dimensions between the outside upper ends of the frames.  I plan on adding spacers between the frames at the top so they will be firmly held.
 

Before I get into the keel assembly I should explain my sources of information. First, there is a 1984 PhD dissertation by Dr. Kevin Crisman found on the Texas A&M Underwater archeology Site. Great reading. This was expanded by Dr. Crisman in a book called "The Eagle, an American brig on Lake Champlain during the War of 1812" published in 1987. This was followed last year by a chapter on the Eagle in "Coffins of the Brave" also edited by Dr. Crisman. There is also a great practicum developed by Gene Bodnar on scratch building a version of the Eagle. These documents along with my CAD drawings and supplementary communications with Dr. Crisman on various aspects of the ship are the materials used in this build.
 
I have completed redoing the keel assembly. I went through all of Dr. Crisman's materials noting dimensions carefully. Where text differed from sketches, I followed dimensions explicitly called out in the text. A few things I found very interesting. First, as I followed the sizing between the various parts on the bow assembly it fell into place that the apron was shaped not only to support the cant frames but also to support the side planking leading to the rabbet. So the rabbet was wider here to allow for this. The assembly was also shaped. The top of the bow and the apron would be 18". The forward part of the cutwater would be 6" and the keel where it met the bow would be 8". This gradually increases to 12" before reversing at the deadwood. This solved some of the perplexing transition questions I had with both the bow and stern.
 
The stern has notches cut for the heels of the futtocks in the half frames. On the ship, these were a bit sloppy with the notches on one side of the keel deeper and wider than the other. This is more a factor of the speed at which they built the ship and shipwright skills. Dr. Crisman goes on to explain that the lower deadwood had a great deal of shaping done with great forethought. It starts out at 12" on the forward end and 8" on the stern (following the shape of the keel below the rabbet and 15" above. This change follows the rabbet as it rises towards the stern and would have provided a stable base for the garboard plank.
 
Since the frames will be white rock maple, I stained the cherry for contrast. Prior to staining it, I sanded it to 220, the burnished it with steel wool. I still have to add the fishplates. Note in the photos, the plan the ship is sitting on has my old framing numbers. As I worked through the various details called out in the materials, I found my numbering scheme was off. Frame X in the materials is actually a ½ thickness square frame. Once I made this change all the details mapped out by the materials aligned perfectly. I also changed the number of cant frames in the bow to 6 to following the materials.
 
 

I used hot glue to glue the keel blocks to the gantry jig. This allowed me to keep them very small and still hold the keel adequately. I also removed the keels tail since it is not required with the gantry. 
After this was done, I used some cherry to build a test frame. I wanted to go through the process from cutting the raw wood to having the frame ready to mount to the keel. I chose Frame X as my test subject - Bwhahaha.

I used a band saw to cut the frame out once the glue dried. Then I used the Oscillating Sander to remove the excess wood to the line for the frame. I used the Scroll saw to trim the keel slot and cleaned it up with a file. Once that was done, I used a #57 drill to drill the drift holes. I did this in the drill press since it allows me to keep the frame at a specific angle during the drilling. In this case, of course at 90 degrees.

I used the Byrnes drawplate to make bamboo pins. These I glued into the holes. I have not yet trimmed these back since the glue is still drying but I did try a test fit with the gantry. Since this is a test frame and also made of Cherry, this will not go any further than trimming the sanding the pins. I will instead move on to completing the new lofting set then start working on the frames at the stern first. 

My plan (always subject to change) is to start the frames with the last full square frame. Then work back to the stern through the counter timbers. Once the stern is complete, I will head to the bow, per Mike, Gary, and Ray's excellent advice.

Since this is my absolute first attempt at making a frame, please comment if you see I am doing something stupid.

Thanks,

I decided to jump course a bit on the build. The practicum constructs a double decked framing jig. I actually cut all the parts for it then decided to change methods. I had looked at a number of builds which used a Gantry Jig to assemble the models. I liked the idea and it certainly provides more access to the frames. The order of construction changes a bit since the practicum starts in the middle and works toward the ends. With the Gantry, you work from the ends toward the middle.
 
One aspect of using the gantry is the ability to trace any of the ships curves to the frame during construction. So I combined the half breadth, the keel and the frame alignment plans into one master which will be underneath the build. This should allow me to check the alignment of a frame against any of the curves quickly.
 
The gantry is complete. I still have to attach the scales to all of the members. Once that is done, I will use them to finalize the alignment of the master plan which will be on the bottom of the jig. I had the plan printed and laminated so it will be more protected as well as keeping glue squeeze out from damaging it.
 
Once all the scales and plans are affixed, I will create the holding and clamping surfaces to mount the keel and clamp cant frames etc. 
 
So framing will commence soon.
 
Below are a couple of photos of the scales and master plans after getting them back from lamination. These are sclaed to 1:48.
 

 

 
This shot shows the bow. The red lines are where the cant frames hit the keel. The green lines map where they intersect the outside waterline. The black vertical lines are the square frames. 
 

 
Midsection
 

 
and Stern
 

 
This shows the gantry with the keel assemble temporarily on the plan. The bow is being held by a temporary appliance. 
 

 
The top horizontal member will have the scale laying toward the bottom of the shot attached to it. 
 

 

 
The lower horizontal member will slide up or down. I made it out of an aluminum straight edge. The forward side has inches on it. The back side has the 1:48 scale. It is narrow enough that it will pass through the spaces between frames. By using a square on the master plan, lines can be traced upwards through the model.
 

 

 
The T-Slots allow the gantry to be moved easily along the model It can be used as well as a clamping brace. In addition, the T-Slot also allows other appliances to be held and moved as they require. I also will be attaching other blocks through the mater plan via hanger bolts with slots in the appliances allowing easy adjustment. The measuring strips are marked in both inches and centimeters. This also will confirm that the frames are square as they are moved around the frame.
 
 

Once of the decision points in the scratch build is the type of woods to be used. While I like boxwood, the chances of needing to go through massive amounts of wood as I fix mistakes necessitate looking for a less expensive alternative. I wanted a hardwood, but also wanted a variety of wood to better show off the ship. I chose cherry for the keel and keelson assembly and rock maple for the frames. As I move further into the model I will make the decisions for the remainder of the ship.
 
I wanted to jump into the build and make sawdust. So I picked up some cherry and maple from my local supplier and milled them down. I will start with the keel assembly, then move on to the building jig and re-lofting the frames.  
 
Here are photos of the keel assembly. I have been trying Dave S's technique for the jointing by cutting the first part, then cutting the matching piece by placing black tape over the second piece, clamping the two pieces together, then cutting the tape around the joint with and Xacto knife. This is then used to cut the second half of the joint. I also used a black wax pencil to mark the interior of the joint so the glued up joint would show well.
 
I did not like the first attempt at the deadwood, so I redid the keel and deadwood. Tomorrow, I will start working on the building jig as well as testing stain. While I do not plan on staining the entire model, I would like the cherry to be a bit darker than it is currently. It would darken over time, but I would rather not have to wait 10 years. I think the darker cherry would look nice against the maple - providing I find a satin I like.
 

I have been working on the ceiling planking over the last few days. The jigs I acquired for my table saw make cutting strips to be as easy (and safe) as I could ask for. I cut up a bunch of strips in various widths and thicknesses based upon the Crisman materials. There are three bands of ceiling planks below the clamp. Those closest to the limber boards are described as wide thin pine or spruce. Next comes thicker oak for those around where the bend in the sides occurs and where the berth deck beams are attached. Lastly come spruce or pine boards again up to the clamp.
  I decided to use unstained cherry for the spruce/pine bands and walnut for the oak. This would give me some nice contrast. I have been minimizing the use of CA other than setting the pins in the planks but for this I found it to be required. Since the lower side of the ceiling planks will be visible through the frames, any squeeze out of the yellow glue would look bad. The CA stayed clear when dry so this was used. The upside of this is I also was able to use my planking bending iron to set the planks making the operation move much faster.   Once the planks were all in place, I sanded everything down smooth then wiped the ship down with mineral spirits to remove the dust. The wood will lighten from that shown in the photos as this dries, but it does show what it will look like with a bit of clear coat. The photos below show the ship as she sits tonight. I was happy to see that from the side, planking the ceiling fully really doesn't affect the look much.   Tomorrow I will work on the pins/spikes used to attach the planks to the frames.  

Ty Dan- well that is the coppering of the hull finished yeyyyyyyyyyy will have to paint and copper the rudder next- at least its only small

Have fun all- going to lay down in a darkened room for a while now!
keith