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Juan Carlos

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  1. how did you get such clean low areas? (dont know the proper name)
  2. if the application of oil was recent and it did not penetrate too deep into the wood, it might work. if not, then you will have to try a mechanical way, like staples, pins, nails, etc. just try. nothing to lose there.
  3. augie is right. you can use talcum or corn starch. the powder will help absorb the oil. might work. worth a try.
  4. thin ca works by capillary action. you put the parts together, then apply the glue. thick, or gap filling, or gel ca, you put the glue on the parts, then join them. the problem with thin ca is that the capillary action is not limited to the joint, it will spread around the area. that is ok if you plan to use paint, but might be a problem if you plan on using stains because it will seal the wood fiber. one trick used in rc airplanes is to use ca when you need a strong area for bolts. drill a hole in the wood, then put thin ca in it. that will make that area very stong. then you can scr
  5. i prefer wood glue. i use it if i have to use clamps or need time for position. i use ca when planking the hull. use it in spot areas in combination with wood glue. that will hold the plank in place while the wood glue dries. excess wood glue is easier to clean. ca is not. joints done with wood glue are easier to sand than joints done with ca. ca is a lot harder. i build rc airplanes and crash them quite often (thats why im building ships now). i noticed that after a crash, wood glue joints failed very little compared to ca joints. when do i use wood glue? if i can glue a part that w
  6. did it by eye using a board with a grove to hold the square stock. turned out very nice. maybe not perfect, but very nice. it gives the illusion i was looking for. thanks to all. next time i will try the nut trick. it sounds interesting.
  7. ok. found the template for 7-10-7 proportions on page 8 of the document ¨Planking Tutorial DRAFT r6.pdf ¨, located in the building, framing, planking section of the forum. its pinned under the name Planking instruction/tutorial by jack nastyface here the link: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/353-planking-instructiontutorial-by-jack-nastyface/
  8. tried to mark the yards for the 7-10-7 or the 2-3-2 proportions but i could not do it on a 5 mm wide square stock. i guess i will try it by eye. will know how well calibrated are my eyeballs. is that how you do it Garward? judging by eye and experience? any tips are wellcome..
  9. Thank you Jim!!!! i remember seeing a template somewhere with a fan shape or something like that for the 2-3-2 proportions. can anybody here give me the link to get there?
  10. got it. 2-3-2 = 7 . so it ends up 2 units from the outer edges in and that leaves 3 units at the center! haw! thank you for showing me the light!!!!!
  11. aahhh! thank you!!!! 2/7th from the edge of the square stock in(towards the center) ? i can do that. but then, why is it called 2-3-2?
  12. looking in the download section of the site, i found the article ¨Making a mast (or spars) from square stock¨ i need to make an octagon portion of a yard but i dont understand the 2-3-2 thing i saw in the article. can anybody here explain that to me? point me to where to find a chart, template, or any other tool to help me here? i remember reading about that some time ago, but now that i want to do the yards i realize i am lost. thanks for the help!
  13. it would be wise to drill a couple of holes on the big jar lid, outside the lid of the small jar to avoid pressure to build up
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