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    Member: The Nautical Research Guild,
    Atlanta Model Shipwrights
    Current builds - The Siren by Model Shipways

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  1. Thanks for the help. I will test a few finishes to see which works best for me. On another note, I thought I once read about a pva that works like thin CA. You can set up the pieces then at the seam the pva will "seep" into the crack. Anyone herd of this? Richard
  2. I like using CA. It is quick tacking and with arthritis it is difficult to hand clamp parts even for short periods. My question is whether there is a Matte finish CA type glue. Thanks, Richard
  3. The links above will help tremendously, especially the jig for stamping the plates. One lesson I learned the hard way is that any finger prints, grease, dirt, etc. will cause sticking problems with copper tape, if not right away then eventually. I carefully washed my hands every time I returned to the coppering process. At times I actually wore white collectors type gloves, but the cotton ones can get fuzz on the plates so I used the nylon. Richard.
  4. Allan, I appreciate the help. I have obtained a copy of Lee's book and it is going to be very helpful as I try to work my way through masts and rigging. Thanks, Richard
  5. I am about to add the wolding (cross bands with no number in the plans??) to the mainmast of the Corel Victory cross section. The mast has what they refer to as "mast finishing. These are a pair of long, vertical strips and a pair of short vertical strips. It appears that the wolding goes under the long pair (part 60) and over the short pair (part 59). Am I reading this correctly? Thanks, Richard
  6. I will buy HMN Swan Class 1767-1780 Vol 4 By Antscherl ISBN 978-0-9820579-8-8. - $15.00. (water damage top binding area) It will be shipped to 30223 Richard
  7. I have used thin CA or gap filling CA and had a firm hold after a few moments of holding. Some, who are not fans of CA, will use PVA but put a couple of spots of CA to get the plank started. Downside is if you want to remove it you end up needing acetone and alcohol to dissolve the glue. So, for me, if the area is easy to clamp, or not under stress, I use PVA. Otherwise, like hull planking, I will use thinned CA. Thinned CA is also useful for prepositioning then allowing Thinned CA to "seep" in. The "seep" in method is becoming a favorite practice. We will just have to see
  8. Great work. I'm going to give it a try. Can you tell me where you got the patterns for the blocks? Thanks, Richard
  9. Allan, The Victory cross section I am working on is 1:98 so I will give thread a try. I have some "rope" being delivered soon. Thanks Richard
  10. Allan, thanks for the link. Seahawk, very understandable instructions. The hooks should be easier to fabricate now. Richard, the thread was an eye opener. The build's instructions show rigging the wire around the block and then forming the hook in one piece. But, everything I have seen here shows using "rope" around the block and the wire only for the hook itself. You can see in my first picture at the start of the thread that I have been wrapping the wire around the block and continuing into forming the hook. I did do some research but never noticed that the blocks
  11. Thank you all for your help. I believe my first priority is getting more comfortable with the smaller scale. I am getting better at working with the 3/32 blocks but now need to work on smaller rings. I have ordered wire gauges from 26 to 30. I couldn't find 32 yet. The wire working tools I bought from one of the hobby suppliers do not get down small enough. If need be I can grind my own as suggested. With the drawings and suggestions given I believe I can get a lot further along. Getting confirmation of the sizes to use will move me along nicely. I was having some difficulty
  12. I am building the Corel Victory cross section 1:98. I've been practicing rigging the cannon. The 3mm blocks that came with the model fall apart with the slightest pressure. (well, maybe not so slight.) I am using 2.5mm blocks from Syren Ship Company, which are really nice. The issue is what size block to use. Those cannon were heavy so the big one makes some sense. The small one looks nice but then the eye ring looks too big. So I figured I'd ask what you all think. Thanks, Richard By the way, these are my first practice attempts and hopefully the final ones will
  13. could we get a picture of how they mounted and set up the repeatable jig. R
  14. If I were already saving for a replacement, I wouldn't look to improve or upgrade. I would put my time into learning to use the tools so I was ready when the Sherline came along. R
  15. Alcohol or CA de-bonder are very thin and I found that even when being very careful, the liquid will seep into multiple layers of wood and also that they can impact the finish. One testimonial at the link cited says "It doesn't affect finishes, so for glue cleanup it's fantastic. The nice thing is that it won't seep into glue joints, so you can use it around a bridge or neck reset or anything like that." I would be especially curious bout " wont seep into glue joints." One hand sounds great for cleaning up glue on the surface of the work but does not sound like it would seep into, say, a
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