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rtropp

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Atlanta
  • Interests
    Member: The Nautical Research Guild,
    Atlanta Model Shipwrights
    Current builds - The Siren by Model Shipways

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  1.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Looking for info on scroll saws.
  2.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: Looking for info on scroll saws.
  3. rtropp
    GRSX, wondered how often you use the tilt table?
  4. rtropp
    Thanks for the help. I will test a few finishes to see which works best for me. On another note, I thought I once read about a pva that works like thin CA. You can set up the pieces then at the seam the pva will "seep" into the crack. Anyone herd of this? Richard
  5.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Copper Tape vs Plates
  6. rtropp started following Aliphatic Resins: How do they actually work?, Non-glossy CA??, Copper Tape vs Plates and 3 others
  7. rtropp
    I like using CA. It is quick tacking and with arthritis it is difficult to hand clamp parts even for short periods. My question is whether there is a Matte finish CA type glue. Thanks, Richard
  8. rtropp
    The links above will help tremendously, especially the jig for stamping the plates. One lesson I learned the hard way is that any finger prints, grease, dirt, etc. will cause sticking problems with copper tape, if not right away then eventually. I carefully washed my hands every time I returned to the coppering process. At times I actually wore white collectors type gloves, but the cotton ones can get fuzz on the plates so I used the nylon. Richard.
  9.    allanyed reacted to a post in a topic: Clarification of wolding for the Victory Cross Section
  10.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Clarification of wolding for the Victory Cross Section
  11. rtropp
    Allan, I appreciate the help. I have obtained a copy of Lee's book and it is going to be very helpful as I try to work my way through masts and rigging. Thanks, Richard
  12. rtropp
    I am about to add the wolding (cross bands with no number in the plans??) to the mainmast of the Corel Victory cross section. The mast has what they refer to as "mast finishing. These are a pair of long, vertical strips and a pair of short vertical strips. It appears that the wolding goes under the long pair (part 60) and over the short pair (part 59). Am I reading this correctly? Thanks, Richard
  13.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Holding Deck Planks Down After PVA Gluing
  14. rtropp
    I will buy HMN Swan Class 1767-1780 Vol 4 By Antscherl ISBN 978-0-9820579-8-8. - $15.00. (water damage top binding area) It will be shipped to 30223 Richard
  15. rtropp
    I have used thin CA or gap filling CA and had a firm hold after a few moments of holding. Some, who are not fans of CA, will use PVA but put a couple of spots of CA to get the plank started. Downside is if you want to remove it you end up needing acetone and alcohol to dissolve the glue. So, for me, if the area is easy to clamp, or not under stress, I use PVA. Otherwise, like hull planking, I will use thinned CA. Thinned CA is also useful for prepositioning then allowing Thinned CA to "seep" in. The "seep" in method is becoming a favorite practice. We will just have to see
  16. rtropp
    Great work. I'm going to give it a try. Can you tell me where you got the patterns for the blocks? Thanks, Richard
  17. rtropp
    Allan, The Victory cross section I am working on is 1:98 so I will give thread a try. I have some "rope" being delivered soon. Thanks Richard
  18. rtropp
    Allan, thanks for the link. Seahawk, very understandable instructions. The hooks should be easier to fabricate now. Richard, the thread was an eye opener. The build's instructions show rigging the wire around the block and then forming the hook in one piece. But, everything I have seen here shows using "rope" around the block and the wire only for the hook itself. You can see in my first picture at the start of the thread that I have been wrapping the wire around the block and continuing into forming the hook. I did do some research but never noticed that the blocks
  19. rtropp
    Thank you all for your help. I believe my first priority is getting more comfortable with the smaller scale. I am getting better at working with the 3/32 blocks but now need to work on smaller rings. I have ordered wire gauges from 26 to 30. I couldn't find 32 yet. The wire working tools I bought from one of the hobby suppliers do not get down small enough. If need be I can grind my own as suggested. With the drawings and suggestions given I believe I can get a lot further along. Getting confirmation of the sizes to use will move me along nicely. I was having some difficulty
  20. rtropp
    I am building the Corel Victory cross section 1:98. I've been practicing rigging the cannon. The 3mm blocks that came with the model fall apart with the slightest pressure. (well, maybe not so slight.) I am using 2.5mm blocks from Syren Ship Company, which are really nice. The issue is what size block to use. Those cannon were heavy so the big one makes some sense. The small one looks nice but then the eye ring looks too big. So I figured I'd ask what you all think. Thanks, Richard By the way, these are my first practice attempts and hopefully the final ones will
  21. rtropp started following Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
  22. rtropp
    could we get a picture of how they mounted and set up the repeatable jig. R
  23. rtropp started following Notched Waterways?
  24. rtropp
    If I were already saving for a replacement, I wouldn't look to improve or upgrade. I would put my time into learning to use the tools so I was ready when the Sherline came along. R

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