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Hello, have someone experience with gluing on the oiled wood? Because i have oiled hull already. And i forgot, that i can be problem with gluing. Tomorrow i´m going to try on a small board and i´ll see.

 

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If you decide you have a real problem, you can dust the oiled wood with talcum powder, let it sit overnight and then wipe it off with a cloth lightly dampened with

95+% alcohol (IPA or ethyl) and perhaps some light sanding with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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The beauty of oil is that it is not so much a surface coat as it soaks into the wood fibers. Having said that tho it still hurts adhesion. Never heard of the talcum powder/corn starch trick--- I like it and it makes sense... another trick in my bag o' tricks ... ;) but whatever you do you need to create an area of as close to raw uncoated wood as you can. Clamping helps too but on a hull I had difficulty in getting any real clamping power so if you do your test tomorrow keep that in mind...:)

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if the application of oil was recent and it did not penetrate too deep into the wood, it might work.  if not, then you will have to try a mechanical way, like staples, pins, nails, etc. just try.  nothing to lose there.

Edited by Juan Carlos
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Hello, have someone experience with gluing on the oiled wood? Because i have oiled hull already. And i forgot, that i can be problem with gluing. Tomorrow i´m going to try on a small board and i´ll see.

When you say you have 'oiled the hull' do you mean you have actually used oil on it or is a 'finish' that is called oil, such as Tung Oil?

The reason I ask is that if it is a wood finish that you have applied you should read the instructions on the can and perhaps all that is required is a light sanding before bonding.

??? 

Jay

 

Current build Cross Section USS Constitution  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10120-cross-section-forward-area-of-the-uss-constitution/

Finished USS Constitution:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/103-uss-constitution-by-modeler12/

 

'A picture is worth a  . . . . .'      More is better . . . .

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thank you everyone :)  for tips I did just try sand the wood and than glue and it hold enough. If I break the plank away I need use quite strong. So i think that it is good and i´ll put treenails in to those planks for sure. And to biggest planks maybe nails, beacause i think that on ship it used be. 

Like here ( i used flipperphils pic) in the black beams, if can be a nails with half round head?

 

 

post-588-0-25387000-1368447558_thumb.jpg

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When I attached my channels I drilled a few tiny holes in the back (the side that gets glued to the hull) and inserted tiny nails without their heads. When i placed them where they should go the nails left an impression where I needed to drill. This and the glue gives stability for the tension that the dead eye shrouds will exert and its hidden :)

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I agree with Randy.  I used 28 gauge wire rather then nails ---- same effect.  Adds a LOT of strength.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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