SS Rex by SteveBos777 - Old Model Kits - 1/350 - RESIN

[SteveBos777]

INTRODUCTION

The SS Rex was built in Italy in the 1930's.  Evidently Mussolini wanted a spiffy ship like everyone else had back then.  I am building this model because I love building models, I love big ships, and my dog is named Rex.

 

Here are some links about the ship, with plenty of photos.  These I am using for reference.

     https://www.italianliners.com/rex-en

     https://www.gettyimages.ie/search/2/image?phrase=ss+rex

     http://johnmoretti.com/ssrex/

     https://i.pinimg.com/originals/83/26/c0/8326c0491e0a686af44a77ec46bcbde2.jpg

     https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SS_Rex

     https://ar.pinterest.com/pin/734086807991149087/

     

This is a link to the model itself, from Old Model Kits.

     https://www.oldmodelkits.com/ss-rex-ocean-liner-model-kit/

 

I'll post more as I get into it.     

[SteveBos777]

WHAT'S IN THE BOX

Here is how the model came from Old Model Kits.  The binder-clipped instructions were on the DVD-R and I printed them out.

Edited Saturday at 08:52 PM by SteveBos777

[SteveBos777]

ADDITIONAL PARTS

I also ordered a stand and 1/350 photo etch railings and details, I forgot exactly the site I got them from.

The stand is on Etsy - https://www.etsy.com/listing/1777255447/ship-model-display-walnut-wood-base

[ddp]

is that hull warped from the swimming pool deck to below the port holes to the right of the clear tape holding the decks to the hull?

[SteveBos777]

DDP - it may be warped a bit.  The kit is good but not as exacting as an injection molded kit. It may also be light shadows from the superstructure piece that's sitting on top of the hull.  Here it is right down the side, it does not look terribly warped.

[SteveBos777]

FLATTENING THE DECKS

The deck paper came rolled up very tightly.  To flatten it I got the heaviest set of books I have (the complete Calvin and Hobbes) and put it on top.  I also tried cutting out one of the sections and wrapping it reverse-wise around a can, then wrapped paper towels and rubber bands.  Both worked somewhat. Ultimately, after leaving the decking under that book set for several MONTHS, the decks are suitably flat.

 

[SteveBos777]

CAST RESIN PARTS

These parts are cast resin and require quite a bit of work to fit, get the windows right, etc.  I'm not counting on this model being picture perfect and all aligned and edged and flush etc.  

Edited Sunday at 08:56 PM by SteveBos777

[SteveBos777]

WOODEN STAND

One of the first tasks was to drill the holes for the stand.  It has to be screwed on before I attach the superstructure, other wise I won't be able to get inside to tighten the bolds.  So the plan is to get the hull mostly done and painted, then attach the base.  After that, the rest of the superstructure, details, etc.  The stand will at that point be removable.

A slight annoyance was that the aft position for the stand post is right where there is an internal, support.  I cut it out and I should be able to screw the nut. 

[SteveBos777]

GRINDING AND DRILLING

I used a Dremel with a grinding bit and had at the top of the hull, the main superstructure piece, and others.  One superstructure roof section was WAY too thick, and crooked getting thicker on only one side - I ground it way down.  I drilled out many of the portholes as they were not deep enough, or not there at all, or clogged (they are not cleaned out yet in the photo, I'll do that before painting).

[SteveBos777]

3D PRINTED PARTS

Before I forget, these are the 3D printed plastic parts.  These were all in baggies packed inside the hull.  They are finely detailed, and there are hundreds of them.  Detailing the decks will be a lot of fun.

[SteveBos777]

BULBOUS BOW

The Rex was innovative in its day, having one of the first bulbous bows.  The kit includes a piece for this, but it would take so much puttying and sanding and shaping that I think I'll leave it off.

[SteveBos777]

PROPELLER ATTACHMENT HOLES

Since I was drilling and drilling today, I thought I'd put holes in the propellers and shafts, so that later on I can attach the propellers with wire.  That will be much more secure, I've done it on a lot of models for things like car side mirrors.