yvesvidal

Looking really good Herb. I see that you got the end bulkheads from Otto. Great stuff that adds a lot of realism (and logic) to the kit. Yves

That is a very good ratio. You are definitely an expert, with those microscopic bits. Yves

So what is the ratio: 1 drill every three holes? Yves

A few issues have been solved with CAF Bellona. One of them (and not the least) is the Stern. At the end of Session #1, the following is proposed: There is not enough material and information to really make it a success. My approach has been the following: Using Picture 22, I only glued D1 to D4 on each side. That was done after fairing the hull, to avoid breaking the delicate parts. The sandwich suggested in Picture 24 is not really necessary and as we will see only the two D-5-c parts are necessary. But this is left aside for now as D5 has not been glued to the transom. With only the Session #1 kit, you cannot and should not go any further. I was so much in the dark that I asked for help to Tom. He provided me with these two CAD drawings that shed so much light on my problem: With Session #2, an interesting piece of information is revealed: Part #25 is key and will help you build the correct alignment for the left and right D5 parts as well as provide that crucial 152 mm width, which is essential when building all the magnificence of the stern. In the picture below, you can see how Part 25 is coming to save us: A little verification of the distance: Yes, it is very close. At that stage, I glued the two shells "Q" on each side. D5 parts are still floating and have not been secured to the transom. Once Q is properly glued and aligned with the rest of the hull, the parts D5 and D-5-C will be shaped to fit. Above you can see D-5-A and D-5-B on the right and the two D-5-c parts glued together on the left. I did not need the parts on the right. D-5-C assembly is filed down to almost nothing to fill in the gap between the D5 futtock and the shell Q: as you can see below, there is still plenty to remove.... Finally, when the sandwich D-5-C have been reduced to a sliver, it can be glued to D5, which can be in turn glued to the transom, using the shell Q as a guide for proper alignment. The gluing is done with part 25 in place, to make sure that everything is perfectly lined up. Finally, we come to that: Above, D1 (the center futtock) will be removed as I intend to make the rudder movable. D1 is in the way, and its only purpose is to make sure that you have a central reference. Once part 25 is glued, it will not be really necessary. Yes, the Sacro-saint dimension of 152 mm is there: We finally come to a point where we are starting to have a decent stern: I hope these explanations will be useful to some readers. This is definitely not a Vanguard Model with a documentation done by James H. We are trailblazing here.... Next, the stem.... Yves

This sequence of assembly is incredible. I wish most kit manufacturers would come close to what you are describing, in their instructions....or lack of. It is amazing to see the ship being born, one level at a time and it feels like you could create kits at different scales very easily out of your 3D study. Keep up this fantastic work. Yves

Superb work. Each phase is getting exciting and building the interior will be the highlight of that model. Then, you will have to find some motive powers to go with it.... Yves

Obviously, he loves torturing himself, and the Yamato is the perfect device for that 🙂 It will be a long agony..... Yves

Rod, Another Calder Craft model taken to exquisite completion. Congratulations on this realistic tug and thank you for sharing the build with us. Yves

Superb model Craig. You need to create a new wooden display to present this model. It deserves it. Yves

The real ship is 57 meters high from the flotation line to the top of the main mast. At 1/48th scale, it makes for 1.16 meter high. Yves

That is correct Kevin. There is nothing planned for the masting. The mast will rest on the main spine and the kit provides wooden rings and various strengthening parts if you decide to install them. This is an admiralty kit first of all. I intend if I ever get there, to install the bowsprit. Masts? I will plan for them and make sure that the anchoring is solid, if I ever get to that part of the ship. It is an enormous kit and there is so much to assemble: the full 74 guns in themselves are a daunting task. Yves

Mike, Yes the kit comes with the 74 guns, 28 big caliber, 28 mid-caliber and the rest made of small guns. All carriages are there too. Yves

The cat seems to approve of your decision. Yves

Patrick, Thank you for your encouragements and praises. Yes, it is not exactly an easy model and a few things have to be ironed out. The kit is evolving and CAF Model is fixing things on the fly, always improving their kits. As a matter of fact, I am corresponding regularly with Tom (CAF Model in China) and he is helping me along the process to build this model successfully. There are no Build Log of the CAF Bellona on the WEB and I feel at times, like a pioneer. I am currently working on the Stern and hope to be able to present my recommendations in a few days. The instructions are a little bit weak, to say the least, and reminds me of the IKEA assembly guide for their furniture. It is simply not enough for a kit of that caliber. This is not a Vanguard kit, for certain. Yves

Can I hire you to plank my Bellona? You did a spectacular job and unless you do my ship 😉 I will use your precious advices for Bellona. Yves