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About ccoyle

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  • Birthday 08/15/1963

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  • Location
    Greer, South Carolina
  • Interests
    model building, hunting, fishing, reading, genealogy

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  1. Everything wired together. Next step is to flip it over and tighten all the wires. You may notice some red and white wires -- the bare copper wire supplied with the kit ran short by a substantial amount. I made a trip to the hardware store, but the only 18 ga wire I could find came in the form of two-strand thermostat wire. Happily, I quickly discovered that I only needed to remove the outer covering from the wire and not the individual insulation on each of the two inner wires, hence the red and white bits in the photo. I actually like the insulated wire better, because I find that it twists
  2. So, when we last saw Mr. Coyle in action, he had just finished reinforcing the temporary bulkhead that he'd inexplicably managed to somehow break. Here's the repaired bulkhead wired in place (again, done with no help, since my "extra hands" always seem to have an excuse for why they can't come at the moment). This, on the other hand, is one of the two permanent bulkheads wired in place. These will form compartments to create some reserve buoyancy. They will also have drain plugs installed. Construction proceeds with stitching the side panels to
  3. There are significant feral parrot populations in Southern California. We used to see them regularly when I lived down that way.
  4. Clare, they're just beige paint on the back side, painted according to the instructions.
  5. Played around with some filters on my photo editing software I like how this one softens the background, but it also looks a little washed out.
  6. This is the first wooden kit offered by the Polish card model publisher, Shipyard. It represents a cog (or kogge) used by privateer Klaus St├Ârtebeker in the latter half of the 14th century. Full build log can be viewed here.
  7. Disaster struck! Well, a little one -- manageable, too. While trying to tie in a temporary frame, it cracked. What to do, oh, what to do? Happily, I had two pieces of 1x1 cedar strip leftover from trimming the ends of the rub rail I glued up yesterday. So, I made a brace for the cracked frame, glued it in place, and clamped it. As a prophylactic measure, I made one up for the other frame so I could glue and clamp both at the same time. Hopefully the only pain this causes me is a slight production delay.
  8. Work continues. All strakes glued together and joints sanded. The camera makes the joints look messier and rougher than they actually are. Except for the bottom planks, each plank has a rabbet cut into it. The gain, or taper, at each end of the rabbet must be created by removing some wood with a rasp & a sanding block. To add some rigidity to the floppy top planks, the outboard rub rails are attached. They must be bent as they are clamped along their length. The instructions say to brush the epoxy onto the rail and then clamp it to the plan
  9. I remember reading an article about a vacuformed Arado in a modeling magazine around forty years ago.
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