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Uss constitution by rommoz - revell - plastic - 1/96 - war of 1812

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Hello Everyone,

I'm finally getting around to starting my build log. I am going with the very popular War of 1812 version. The base kit is the revell 1/96 that I found on ebay for less than $20, but I am doing a plastic/ wood hybrid of sorts.

There will be wooden decks, and plenty of scratch built wooden parts, but mostly plastic will be used. Hopefully you guys won't mind if I use some of your ideas and techniques.


Although I've been on a modeling hiatus for about 15 years, This will be my most advanced project ever attempted. Most models I've built were cars and aircraft, with the exception of this exact model at the ripe age of 13....boy was I over my head. Needless to say I did not finish.


I had a list written of things I was going to do, but I've misplaced it. My next post will be once I recreate that list (this weekend).


Since I am in eastern PA, we are expecting snow this weekend so I will have plenty of build/update time in the next few days

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Plans for 1812 constitution:


Yellow ochre gun deck stripe

Remove "constitution" from stern

Fill in forward bridle ports

Furled sails

Thicken gun deck bulwarks

Add diagonal braces on gundeck

Wooden decks

Camboose and brick camboose tray

Real copper plates

Full rigging on cannons and carronades

Possible homemade rope for rigging

R&r grates and bulk up grate frames

Add shot racks and trays

Add chain pumps

Relocate and upgrade elm pumps

Metal eyelets

Hand tied ratlines


If you know of anything I should add/delete please feel free to let me know.



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Since this was an ebay purchase for $17, I wasn't expecting much. The condition upon arrival was less than stellar, but better than expected.

Major discrepancies were broken belaying pins, broken ships wheel, no clear sheet for the windows, broken frame for the netting on the spar deck. These have since been added to the upgrade list


The rest of the kit seems intact. Time to start the build

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Hello Rommoz...


Looks like you have a very comprehensive approach in mind for your build.  I'm sure the money you saved on the original purchase will go towards scads of after market styrene, rope, wood, etc.  I'm sure you will enjoy enhancing this wonderful kit - I know I have!  Fill free to ping those of us who've gone before (altho at the rate I'm going you're sure to pass me!) and we'll do our best to lend helpful insight.


I will enjoy following along...



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Thanks for the encouragement. Your build has given me most of my inspiration. Although I have a question regarding your paint scheme... What do you mean "tops in black"? I looked at the corne painting and I can't seem to figure it out. Also do you know if they still used rope wooldings (as aots's drawings show) or would these have been replaced completely with iron bands by 1812?

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Upon further inspection...the capstan is also broken therefor capstans for both the gundeck and spar deck will be fashioned out of styrene. I do not like the look of the capstan with the "arms" in it anyway. The boss suggested working sails. Although completely above my skill level I am certainly intrigued by this, has anyone ever attempted such an undertaking

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First off I'm about 20 hrs into the build with no pictures. I don't know why, but so far I haven't taken any. I will do my best to recreate them and add pics as I can.


Gun deck:

The number one problem with the gun deck in my opinion is not the seams as most builders think but the fact that 99% of it cannot be seen. This leads to some modelers saying if you can't see it why build it? I am using the gun deck as a "practice" for the spar deck, a photo will be taken before the spar deck is installed and displayed along side the finished model.

Problem 2 is the seams this will be solved by using wood planks. #3 is the grates and frames, the solution being to remove the kit grates and beef up the frames.

I started by removing the grates with an exacto and filing with a jewelers file.

The frames were beefed up by adding 1/32 basswood strips, stacking them along the edges and covering them on top. This increased the thickness and the height as well as leaving a minute lip on the bottom side to glue the new grate to. The height of the frames around the masts will be increased only to make up for the wood decking. I may have to putty the edges but will check it out after I add the decking. Grates were made using .040x.010 styrene strips. I got this idea from another log but I can't remember whose


good look at how I built up under the deck to match up the thickness and cut out the grating...


grating removed frame built up...


new grate...


shows the lip I attach the new grate to...

Edited by rommoz
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Deck planking:

I did the math and buying enough basswood strips to do both decks would be cost prohibitive, therefore I purchased two 1/32 sheets to play with. I cut them to a scale 20ft (About 2 1/2 inches, I realized they should be longer after I cut the strips). I figure this won't be noticed and will carry on making the correction on the spar deck. Then I took the 2 1/2 inch pieces and cut them to about .156 strips. I made a simple jig for uniformity. The edges were then sanded about 3 or 4 at a time to square them up. I did an experiment with a black sharpie and gray paint on the edges to simulate deck caulking. I think black on one edge looked the best on my sample, however we will see after the deck is stained. I sanded off as much of the wood grain as possible to ensure a proper adhesion. Installing the strips is straight forward, I lay a few out to check for uniformity then superglue them into place one at a time. I found that "crazy glue" in the tube with the brush works perfect do this. Be prepared to use two of them per deck, or refill with a generic but the brush is absolutely fantastic because there is no clean up required. I am currently about 1/2 way done with the gun decking and I am into a bit of an issue I do not know what the waterways around the edges look like. I'm considering simply running the decking to the plastic lip the kit deck has on it and painting very edge, as this will leave a scale 3in gutter that will probably never be seen. Anyone know of any pics of this?


Starting the deck planking...

Edited by rommoz
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I like that you are making this a hybrid a you put it. I prefer wood ship models but have done plastic too. I like to add wood too. I have a HMS Bounty plastic kit that is on hold while I build my larger wood Scottish Maid kit. When I get back to the plastic kit I will be replacing some of the yardarms & mast tops with wood because the plastic ones tend to bend too easily. I like the detail cast into the plastic hull. Don't like the plastic formed sails so I will leave them off or make cloth ones. Wish I had thought of wood planking the deck but this model is so small it might not have been easy.


Look forward to following your log. Good luck with this build!

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You guys may have notice a brick "pad" this is a place to put the camboose...


I created it by using .156 strips cut to size. A simple jig was made to help with uniformity. I did not like the "perfect rectangle" look so I used my flat jewelers file to soften the corners, still not happy so I softened the top edges with some fine sand paper.


I laid them out in a brick pattern and made up a frame around it. The frame will be painted or covered in copper. I don't have my copper strip yet so I don't know how it is to work with.


Bricks will be painted red and I will attempt a thinned gray putty to "mortar" the bricks.post-6351-0-79795900-1387734143_thumb.jpg

Edited by rommoz
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Here is a pic of my jig I used to make sure my deck planks were all the same width..post-6351-0-73092000-1388103977_thumb.jpg

The black one is my master. On the left you can see my simple jig I used to make my camboose tray bricks


I was torn about removing the plastic lip, I decided to leave it to use as a form to curve my border strips. Once the decking is finished I will sand everything even and paint the border.


I soaked some practice pieces to see how they turn out. I ran out of deck planks so I've got a lot of work ahead tonight and won't have much to sho

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