ianmajor Posted July 15, 2014 Share #31 Posted July 15, 2014 IR3, This a beautiful neat build. I am struggling to visualize the size of the model. I can get some idea of the compartment sizes from the size of the electronic components but not the over all size. Your thought process in fixing the problems is also very interesting. Keep up the good work (when the TMAX returns). Quote Ian M. Current build: HMS Unicorn (1748) - Corel Kit Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ir3 Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share #32 Posted July 15, 2014 Hi Ian, Thanks for the comments on the build. The sub is 78" long and just fits in the SUV with both the passenger front and back seats down. The Tech Rack is quite long at 46 inches and is completely packed. It is a big challenge to get it built and as I have been advised, a bigger challenge to get it trimmed once in the water. IR3 ianmajor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmajor Posted July 15, 2014 Share #33 Posted July 15, 2014 IR3, Thanks. That is some model! I look forward to the next installment. Quote Ian M. Current build: HMS Unicorn (1748) - Corel Kit Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ir3 Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share #34 Posted December 22, 2014 It has been a long time since I posted so here is an update. The TMAX2 came back a while ago and has been installed. It appears that the fixes are right on. Both piston tanks are working properly and the TMAX2 functionality seems to be OK. There is a lot to learn about the TMAX2 and its various modes. There is also a depth controller, the TAES, and I have a bit to learn about that. When I started hooking all the leads back on to the RX I began by using the old wiring scheme. A bit of a senior moment. Having pulled out what little hair I have left, I consulted my thread to see what I had done only to discover that the RX was moved back into rear bulkhead area. Getting old sucks! For things to do now, I will be getting the wires neat once again, make sure there all openings in the rear bulkhead have something attached or plugged and work to get the sub to neutral buoyancy. This will also be a good test for water tight integrity and checking that the ballast tanks are working properly. Until next time from the bottom of the pond, IR3 ianmajor and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ir3 Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share #35 Posted December 24, 2014 I am starting on getting all the pressure lines checked and had to do some work on the forward piston tank water line. It is a very tight area to run the tubing and there are kinks at both ends. The max depth pressure sensor is located in this area and it is quite big. There is barely enough room for the 10mm od tubing to fit. This is the connection to the outside water pressure. The aluminum tube runs through the rear bulkhead and is open to the sea. Note the kink. This picture shows the connection going to the forward ballast tank. Note the small kink in this line. I am not to worried about this kink but I will be sending an email to Engel with some pictures to see if there is a better way. I solved one kink by making a right angle fitting out of 1/4 thin wall brass tube. It still needs to be cleaned up a bit. My soldering leaves a lot to be desired. I may have to do this to the other connection at the ballast tank. Next problem to solve is getting in the tubing for the pressure sensor itself. The second picture shows the nipple on the sensor. The tubing runs through the hole to the other side of the bulkhead where there is a brass tube that runs to the rear bulkhead and is open to sea water. BTW, the pictures show a green phenolic ring that is attached to the forward bulkhead. This ring has a set of spring loaded pins. I have the bow plane servo wires going to a specific spot on the ring which matches another ring deep within the hull. This is the way the connection to the bow plane servo is made and still maintain water tight integrity. Enjoy the holidays. Until next time, IR3 Piet, ianmajor and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ir3 Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share #36 Posted March 5, 2016 I parted with the Engel Type VII for several reasons. First and foremost, very difficult to transport. My current transportation would not handle a boat of this length. Also, there is very little opportunity to run the boat in a clear, unpolluted lake or pond. The nearest one is full of ducks and other birds and I just can imaging sucking up some of the filth in the ballast tanks let alone be able to see it while submerged. It has moved on to a very capable individual that has a lot of sub experience. It was both a hateful and very enjoyable build with many obstacles to overcome but the experience was well worth it. I have also dropped out of the model aircraft part of my hobby interests so I can just concentrate on watercraft. I should be getting back to the Loire soon and will get back to the build thread. Thanks for the followers on this thread. Much appreciated. Until next time, IR3 mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.