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ir3

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    West Hills, California

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  1. Hi Chuck, Just signed on and ordered Chapters 1, 2, frames. I swore I would not start another built up ship model but with your effort in developing the kit, I will fully enjoy the build. Thanks, Iran
  2. The new boiler is on order and will take about 12 weeks to get it built and sent from across the pond. In the mean time, when I get back I will be stripping the cabin and doing some rebuilding. Until next time, IR3
  3. I commented in a previous post that I would show the steam plant installed. It would have been exactly as in the earlier model pictured above but after giving it a lot of thought, I am not going to use the B2F boiler. Being inside a confined space it needs to have as many safety items installed. While it is the suggested boiler for the Y2DR, it would be very difficult to add some safety features like a fuel regulator and shutoff valve and the throttle is very clumsy to manage. I am searching for a good source of boilers for this model and when I find what I need, I will post it. I need to start stripping the main cabin but that will start after the first of the year as 17 day vacation is coming up. So Happy Holidays to all and Until Next Time, IR3
  4. So this is about it for now on the foredeck. A lot different than earlier pictures above. The deck now has a steel look to it and the vents are under the second deck. The cleats are from the original kit. Since this is just a swimming pool boat, I just left them as they are. Not quite the same as the ones on the boat today. The reels need some string to resemble mooring lines. The derrick for the passenger ramp will come much later after the main cabin is refurbished. Next update will be with the steam plant and radio installed. I will show a picture of the main cabin as it is now just to show what a nightmare it will be to strip it and realign the parts. Until next time, Ir3
  5. I spent some tome getting the Paddle Wheel area up to date. The railing stanchions from the kit are stamped out of sheet brass but I did manage to find a single ball stanchion 15mm high which is exactly the correct height. There is an opening in the aft bulkhead for the maintenance crew which I may simulate with a black door. This is just about it for the stern. I may add some miscellaneous stuff but that is TBD. Next update will include detailing for fore deck. Until next time, IR3 BTW, some of the likes are going to my previous build (which I wish I never parted with!!!)
  6. This boat is gone. Turned over to another modeler to finish. But that is only part of the story. I really missed this boat. It should have stayed in the shop. Being a glutton for punishment, a basket case appeared on RCG but it had the complete steam plant for this boat, Y2DR, B2F, Burner, and Puke tank. So lock me up in a padded room but here goes. The original owner purchased this kit in 1994. Being a very difficult kit, he was way over his head. I purchased this mess knowing a bit about how it goes together. I am just about finished with the hull and 1st deck. It will be rebuilt as near to current configuration. It will have a mixture of goodies so I place it around 2008+. I will add more pictures later as the rebuild goes on but the main feature is a replacement paddle wheel. The replacement just looks like it really belongs. You can compare it to an earlier picture. Next update from my Mental Ward!!
  7. Mark, thanks for the reply. My biggest problem is running across something interesting and different and I just have to do it. Like implementing the Lurssen effect on the Schnellboot. I am too quick to gobble up an old kit only to realize that getting the running gear and fitting kits will be almost impossible and so more improvising. The Schnellboot was an interesting adventure but started taking up too much precious time. I do have some very nice Steam projects that I have collected over the years and will concentrate on them. For sure, there will be no improvising on them, just straight forward builds with excellent instructions and steam plants designed directly for them. Time is moving on too quickly.
  8. I have had so many problems getting the prop shafts to line up and getting the Lurssen effect working that I decided to just do a static build. I can see now what the kit manufacturers go through to engineer running gear in the models. It is above my pay grade. If anyone wants to try a motorized version of this, please let me know. I have all the components removed and may offer them. Thanks for the followers. When I get back to working on this, I will do more posting.
  9. Yes, I do believe it will be quit fast. Electrics installation is just about done. The Power Distribution board, the Battery Combiner board and ON/OFF are installed. The switch is a Double Pole ON/OFF so instead of disconnecting batteries when done for the day, the switch will connect the positives of the batteries to the Battery Combiner. The Battery Combiner will run with just one Battery connected so depending on weight distribution I can run 1 or 2 batteries. When wiring the batteries, I might use a Deans 2 to 1 connecter so I can hook up the charger without taking out the batteries, TBD. The last of the installation will be a suitable location for the RX. I am still using my F-14 Marine radio running on 75MHZ. The RX position should not be a problem if kept away from the ESC's. Until next time, IR3
  10. Once again, thanks for the likes and the comments. The hull has been painted and final installation of electronics and running gear has started. I absolutely hate painting so no micro close ups of this paint job. When I paint the model it comes from the shipyard with battle damage. If it came to a choice of painting or going to the dentist for a root canal, in the words of a famous old comedian, "I'm thinking about it". But, oh well, my goal is to have a reasonably acceptable model but testing of the Lurssen effect it on the top of the list. We will not be getting any closer to the model to check out the paint job.😀 The motors are in as well as the fuse boards and fans. The motors are wired to the fuse boards. Nice to have all screw connections. The fuse/fan board fits nicely and has ample clearance to the deck. I think with the deck house on there will be enough openings to get some cooling air in. Also, some hatches will be open so hopefully some air will exhaust through them. I am not too worried. Until next time, IR3
  11. Hi Mark, There will be a few open hatches. Hopefully it will be enough. About the torpedoes, Merriman sold a torpedo kit for the 1/72 Revel Gato running on compressed CO2. I suppose that one could use the same system here but probably not. But, a very interesting question. Thanks, Iran
  12. The fans just arrived and will be installed tomorrow. The fans should keep a reasonable amount of air moving across the motors. While waiting the torpedo tubes were installed. Before going too much further the hull needs painting. I will be doing flat white above the water line first and then follow up with the rest at a later date. It'll be easier to do the painting above the water line before any decks and deck detail is added. Also waiting for the rest of the electronics. Until next time, IR3
  13. Thanks Lou, The Hansen Dam boat pond is quite large. The Irregulars used to meet regularly but that has dropped off quite a bit. The Violators group is on the pond on Saturdays and they are running the fastest boats around so there is plenty of room. I do not have a programmable radio so it is great that the P94 has a lot of options and several mixing modes. As soon as I have all the electrics I will do a water line test. I purchased the Dual Battery adapter from Action and so to make up the weight I can experiment with one or two battery packs at different weights or simply use some shot ballast. I have the fuse blocks in place above the motors and room for two very light 30mm square fans. If the motors to not get too hot they can be removed. Until next time, IR3
  14. I do appreciate all of the input you are providing. The power source will be 7.2V but probably closer to 6.5V due to losses. I never did a 3 prop boat and from your input and the P94 setup instructions, it is not quite as simple as one would expect. The prop diameters are 1.25" so that will affect the analysis or the current flow somewhat. The P94 has 4 modes of operation. Mode 4 is what they suggest for MTB's such as this one. In Mode 4, the center prop is slowed down in turns by a proportionate amount TBD by rudder movement, In another mode, the center motor speed does not change with rudder movement. The mix is adjustable from 50% to 100% so this will be set in trial runs. It's quite complex as to how the transmitter sticks control various outer prop configurations depending on movement of left and right sticks. I have a lot of studying to do on this. But I think that with the larger props the loads will be a lot greater so perhaps putting a fan above the motors can't hurt. I read some other experiences about the Lurssen effect on the S100. Some reported no effect until near top speed. Others used only the center motor in which case the Lurssen effect would not work at all. I think this is correct as the effect depends on the outer props which have a big influence on the stern wave. There is no definitive discussion of this effect as applied to the S-38 or the S-100. It will be interesting once the pond runs are made to see what actually happens. It could end up with a lot of effort and get very little result. But it is fun doing the implementation. I did find a picture of an implementation that has the outer rudder servo offset from the center line to keep the geometry correct. In the design that I first followed, the geometry was all wrong and it probably didn't work at all. The build thread never made it to boat on water. A bit winded but in the meantime, more parts were ordered from Action so the complete installation of electronics will be set back a few weeks. I will continue installing the parts that I have. Until next time, IR3
  15. The spec on these motors is 5.9A at 22000 rpm. I'm not so sure I will run the motors at top speed so the current draw will be somewhat less.

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