Shaping Solid Ship Model Hulls

[Pete Jaquith]

Shaping the Solid Hull

By Peter Jaquith

 

Recent internet posts have identified problems/concerns relative to shaping solid hulls.  The following notes outline the process and techniques I have used with success to shape both kit and scratch built solid hulls.  Note that I prefer to plank over the solid hull and these notes are based on that approach.

 

Rough Carved Kit Hulls:

 

Templates – Prepare station, deck camber, deadrise (if applicable), fore/aft deck endings, fore/aft cap rail endings, and stem & stern frame profile templates.  I prepare templates by pasting copies of the hull lines to firm card stock or matt board.

Reference Lines – Establish hull & deck reference lines.  I recommend transferring the deck lines to the exterior hull and then clamping the hull in the inverted position to layout the centerline, station lines, and deck & bulwark shear lines.

Deck Shear & Camber – Shape the deck shear & camber.  If the carved bulwarks have been removed, a draw knife is useful here.  If the carved bulwarks are retained, than flat chisels and small sanding blocks will work here.

Bulwark Shear & Camber – Shape the bulwark (or deck at side) shear & molded breadth.  If the bulwarks are retained, use a flat chisel to carve the upper bulwark edge to the shear line.  After layout of the bulwark (or deck at side) molded breadth, use a flat chisel to carve the bulwark upper (or deck at side) edge to the molded breadth using a downward sloping cut to allow for tumblehome.

Keel, Stem, & Stern Profile – Shape the keel, stem, & stern profile.  If material needs to come off the keel line, I recommend a draw knife or block plane.  I use a flat chisel, mill file, and round sanding drums to shape the stem & stern profile.

Hull Exterior Surface – Shape the hull to the hull lines.  I prefer to carve the hull lines with the hull secured in the inverted position on a building/reference board.  First I carve the deadrise using a draw knife.  I then rough out the stations using a sharp gouge and then fair between stations.  For fairing between stations, I use gouges to remove the majority of material followed by a #49 Pattern Making file.  The #49 Pattern Making file leaves a good surface on both convex and concave surfaces, and with a minimum of sanding with sanding sticks the surface is ready for planking or copper application.

Bulwark Inner Surface – After layout of the bulwark inner surface, I use sharp gouges cutting vertically to remove the majority of the material, followed by a flat chisel and wedge shaped sanding blocks.

Option #1, Remove the Carved Bulwarks – Many modelers prefer to remove the carved bulwarks.  The bulwarks can then be fitted by recessing a piece of 1/32” ply (I have not tried this method) or by building up the bulwark framing with the timberheads slotted into the hull block.

Option #2, Recess Upper Hull – For vessels with copper sheathing, I prefer to recess the solid hull and plank only the bulwarks and upper hull.

 

Scratch Built Solid Hulls:

 

Material – For scratch built solid hulls I prefer to work with basswood or sugar pine.

Templates - Prepare station, deck camber, deadrise (if applicable), fore/aft deck endings, fore/aft cap rail endings, and stem & stern frame profile templates (see notes above).

Fabricating the Solid Hull – I fabricate the hull laminations using a table saw.  I prefer to laminate the hull block while in rectangular form.  I glue up the laminations using brown carpenters glue as the glue lines provide useful reference lines.  Where appropriate, I laminate the poop deck as a separate assembly.

Reference Lines – Establish hull & deck reference lines.  With the hull block still in rectangular form, it is easy to accurately layout the centerline, station, deck shear & camber lines.

Transom Assembly - Shape the transom assembly.  If the hull lines permit, I use a disk sander to shape the transom or counter.

Deck Shear & Camber - Shape the deck shear & camber.  I use a draw knife to shape the deck shear and camber.  If a poop deck is involved, I shape the main deck prior to installing the poop deck assembly.

Deck at Side – After layout of the deck at side molded breadth, I use a band saw to rough out the deck at side (leaving adequate material for tumblehome).  I then use a flat chisel to carve the deck edge to the molded breadth using a downward sloping cut to allow for tumblehome.

Keel, Stem, and Stern Profile – (see notes above).

Hull Exterior Surface – Shape the hull to the hull lines (see notes above).

 

Using the above techniques, I have been able to accurately ship model hulls from both rough carved kit hulls and scratch built solid hulls.  I should note that the above approach generates a limited amount of sanding dust but a lot of wood chips (most of the material is removed by draw knife, gouges, and chisels).  A good shop vacuum is a critical tool here.

 

I have attached pictures of “Newsboy” 1854 (machine carved hull, kit) and “Eagle” 1847 (laminated solid hull, scratch) illustrating the process.

 

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Edited June 15, 2014 by Pete Jaquith

[mischief]

Would love to see a progress log,

[Pete Jaquith]

Mischief,

 

I have recently posted build logs for the Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 (scratch builds) and the Brigantine "Newsboy" 1854 (kit builds).

 

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder