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Zack Soderquist

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  1. As it's getting chilly here in Nebraska, I thought I'd ask some questions about burrrrrrrs (bad pun) I was looking around at possibly purchasing some burrs, there are diamond burrs, titanium coated diamond burrs, tungsten carbide burrs, carbide burrs... what type do you recommend to carve reliefs in wood? Also, there are all different kinds of shapes of burrs. Examples: Ball, Cone, Rounded Cylinder, Flat Top Cylinder, Tapered, Needlepoint, etc. What does each type do? Do I need them all or are there certain ones that I would use the most? I know these seem like really simple questions that a quick Google search would provide the answers, but thought it would be good to have the answers on this forum.
  2. Zack Soderquist

    When to paint/stain?

    I'm sorry. I'm not really following what you're saying.
  3. I am currently working on the Rattlesnake by Model Shipways. This is only my second wood ship model and the instructions nicely give me a break down of what color/stain to use on what area. The issue I have is it doesn't tell me WHEN to paint or stain things. Is it better to paint or stain things before they get attached to the boat or after? Should I paint after installation and stain before installation? I am getting to a point where I need to make a decision on this and would like to suggestions and advice. Also, if you wouldn't mind, provide your reasoning for doing it the way you do it so it can help me make a decision. Thank you.
  4. This may end up being a question that is all about preference. But I would like to know people's opinions on whether airbrushing or brush painting a ship is best. I would like to know what you think the pros and cons of airbrush vs brush painting (hulls, fittings etc). I have both options available to me. I have a very nice paasche airbursh as well as high end Winsor and Newton brushes. Currently I am working on the Rattlesnake by Model Shipways. I am leaning towards brush painting but I am concerned about brush strokes, especially on the large hull. What is your opinion and why?
  5. Ok thank you everyone for your feedback. The 3/32" thick batten does not bend well to the hull without soaking or bending. I think Ed might be correct and it probably meant the 1/32 x 3/32 stock. I will use that for fairing. Thank you again.!
  6. I am currently building the Rattlesnake by MSW. The instructions recommends to use a 3/32" thick batten to check for fairness. Obviously this thickness is harder to bend than 1/16" thick. The standard plank thickness of the lower hull for this model is 1/16". Is there a reason to use a thick batten to check for fairness?
  7. Zack Soderquist

    Spiling Batten, Huh?

    I have a LOT better understanding of planking than I did when I posted this. Thank you all. @vaddoc One question about spiling. Even with a strake split into multiple planks, it seems some of them will be wider than the plank stock provided in the kits. How do you deal with this? Do you order additional material in a wider width?
  8. This is probably a really basic question, but I am new. I may use the wrong jargon, but I will try my best. My apologies. I have read many tutorials and books on planking a model ship. They all talk about the garboard strake. The first ship I built I winged it and I know I didn't do it correctly at all. Now that I am on my second ship, I would like to learn how to make the garboard strake correctly. I have not found a source that provides good details on how to determine the spile of the garboard strake. The ship plans give me a good idea of where the garboard should end on the stern, but I don't know how to determine the shape of the garboard to make it. I know the bottom edge should be straight and you spile to top edge (reverse of every other plank). Most tutorials/books say to do the top belt, then the bottom belt and alternate back and forth till you get to the last one right in the middle. In order to work from the bottom up, I have to spile the garboard correctly. No clue how to determine this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Zack Soderquist

    Spiling Batten, Huh?

    Thank you all for your feedback that helps me a lot!
  10. Zack Soderquist

    CA glues

    How I manage CA glue tips is acetone which you can pickup at walmart, home depot etc. They have it where the have mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, etc. First I use BSI (Bob Smith Industries) CA Glue. This is what is typically sold by Micro-Mark, Model Shipways etc with their name on it. I then ordered extra tips. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NI8MS0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have uncut tips which is what I use on the bottles while not using the glues. When I need to use them, I put on a cut tip and use it. When I'm done, I drop the tip in a jar with acetone and put the uncut tip back on the bottle. If I'm using thin CA, I also add a fine tip. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002N4S8S2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Again when I'm done, this fine tip goes in the acetone too. After the tips soak in acetone for a day or two, I remove them and let them air dry. They dry pretty quick. Now they are ready to go.
  11. I'm very new to this hobby but here's what I have setup so far.
  12. After attaching the the keel, stem and sternpost, I chiseled the bearding and rabbets. Then I sanded the slots on the bulkheads and center keel to fit. I also marked the waterline on each bulkhead to aide in installing the bulkheads properly. To square the bulkheads, I used a small square and clamp. The instructions say to nail a piece of scrap plank to hold the bulkheads square while the clue dries. After trying this, I found it very cumbersome. I then took some double sided tape and attached it to the scrap planks and used that instead of the nails and it worked very well and was much easier. I beveled the two fore bulkheads prior to installing. The rest, I will bevel after they are installed by using a sanding block. Not yet sure how I will bevel the inside of the bulkhead for the ceiling planks. After all bulkheads are installed, I will add a strip of wood on each side to strengthen the bulkheads for beveling as well as making sure each bulkhead is perfectly aligned before planking. In hindsight I wish I would have installed the bulkheads starting from the back to the front as there is not a lot of room to use the square on the aft of the boat.
  13. My first step was to draw the water line, bearding lines and bulkhead markings on the center keel, then glued the two center keel pieces together.
  14. I decided to build a display case from scratch. I didn't purchase enough oak corner molding so the photo shows missing molding on the back which has since been completed. Some lessons learned in the process but compared to the model, it was actually quite simple. I plan to have a plaque created and will add inside the display case.
  15. Here are pictures of the ship after I finished the masting and rigging. I didn't like the rigging line provided in the kit so ordered rigging line from Syren Ship Model Company https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/. The quality of this line was quite apparent. I was very happy I upgraded the rigging, it made it much easier to work with.

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