Jump to content

Zack Soderquist

Members
  • Content Count

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Zack Soderquist

    Spiling Batten, Huh?

    I have a LOT better understanding of planking than I did when I posted this. Thank you all. @vaddoc One question about spiling. Even with a strake split into multiple planks, it seems some of them will be wider than the plank stock provided in the kits. How do you deal with this? Do you order additional material in a wider width?
  2. This is probably a really basic question, but I am new. I may use the wrong jargon, but I will try my best. My apologies. I have read many tutorials and books on planking a model ship. They all talk about the garboard strake. The first ship I built I winged it and I know I didn't do it correctly at all. Now that I am on my second ship, I would like to learn how to make the garboard strake correctly. I have not found a source that provides good details on how to determine the spile of the garboard strake. The ship plans give me a good idea of where the garboard should end on the stern, but I don't know how to determine the shape of the garboard to make it. I know the bottom edge should be straight and you spile to top edge (reverse of every other plank). Most tutorials/books say to do the top belt, then the bottom belt and alternate back and forth till you get to the last one right in the middle. In order to work from the bottom up, I have to spile the garboard correctly. No clue how to determine this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Zack Soderquist

    Spiling Batten, Huh?

    Thank you all for your feedback that helps me a lot!
  4. Zack Soderquist

    CA glues

    How I manage CA glue tips is acetone which you can pickup at walmart, home depot etc. They have it where the have mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, etc. First I use BSI (Bob Smith Industries) CA Glue. This is what is typically sold by Micro-Mark, Model Shipways etc with their name on it. I then ordered extra tips. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NI8MS0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have uncut tips which is what I use on the bottles while not using the glues. When I need to use them, I put on a cut tip and use it. When I'm done, I drop the tip in a jar with acetone and put the uncut tip back on the bottle. If I'm using thin CA, I also add a fine tip. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002N4S8S2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Again when I'm done, this fine tip goes in the acetone too. After the tips soak in acetone for a day or two, I remove them and let them air dry. They dry pretty quick. Now they are ready to go.
  5. I'm very new to this hobby but here's what I have setup so far.
  6. After attaching the the keel, stem and sternpost, I chiseled the bearding and rabbets. Then I sanded the slots on the bulkheads and center keel to fit. I also marked the waterline on each bulkhead to aide in installing the bulkheads properly. To square the bulkheads, I used a small square and clamp. The instructions say to nail a piece of scrap plank to hold the bulkheads square while the clue dries. After trying this, I found it very cumbersome. I then took some double sided tape and attached it to the scrap planks and used that instead of the nails and it worked very well and was much easier. I beveled the two fore bulkheads prior to installing. The rest, I will bevel after they are installed by using a sanding block. Not yet sure how I will bevel the inside of the bulkhead for the ceiling planks. After all bulkheads are installed, I will add a strip of wood on each side to strengthen the bulkheads for beveling as well as making sure each bulkhead is perfectly aligned before planking. In hindsight I wish I would have installed the bulkheads starting from the back to the front as there is not a lot of room to use the square on the aft of the boat.
  7. My first step was to draw the water line, bearding lines and bulkhead markings on the center keel, then glued the two center keel pieces together.
  8. I decided to build a display case from scratch. I didn't purchase enough oak corner molding so the photo shows missing molding on the back which has since been completed. Some lessons learned in the process but compared to the model, it was actually quite simple. I plan to have a plaque created and will add inside the display case.
  9. Here are pictures of the ship after I finished the masting and rigging. I didn't like the rigging line provided in the kit so ordered rigging line from Syren Ship Model Company https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/. The quality of this line was quite apparent. I was very happy I upgraded the rigging, it made it much easier to work with.
  10. This was my first wood ship build. I didn't take many pictures during the build process. Didn't think to do so. Prior to this, I built a USS Constitution by Revell 1/196 scale, plastic. That is the extent of my model building experience. Comparing the process of building a plastic kit and a wood kit, I am totally hooked on wood ships. Also of note, I am a software developer by trade and have never worked with wood or did any painting so I am very very new to every part of building models and it is apparent in the quality. I am happy with the final results but I can only get better from here. I did modify the color of the red paint that came with the kit. The kit came with Bright Red and Hull Copper Red. I mixed a little of the Hull Copper Red in with the Bright Red till it came out with the color I liked. Here are some photos before I started on the masts and rigging.
  11. Beginning a build of the Rattlesnake US Privateer by Model Shipways. This is only my third model, second wood ship. Previously I have built the USS Constitution by Revell - Scale 1/196 - Plastic 18th Century Longboat by Model Shipways - Scale 1/48 - Wood After building a plastic ship model and a wood ship model, I am totally hooked on the wood ships. My first wood ship build was purchased as a combo kit from Model Shipways which included the kit, paint and tool kit. I falsely assumed that if it came with a beginners toolkit that it was a beginner ship model. After receiving it and seeing how small it was, I researched further and found it was for advanced builders. Although a bit dismayed, I gave it a go and did complete it slowly. I learned a lot during the process. I probably learned more about what not to do. For this build, I used the MSW Model Ship Kit Database to pick my next model. http://mswshipkits.ampitcher.com/ This is a much larger ship and rated at an intermediate level. I hope the larger size will make it a little easier in some ways. After reading the instructions for the kit, it provides a lot more "beginner" details on how build a wood ship. It is much more detailed than the longboat instructions.
  12. Zack Soderquist

    Spiling Batten, Huh?

    You lost me on the last sentence. What does 9-7-6-5 mean, what is a fan gauge and how would you use it to find the points to use the spilling batten on? Also, I understand the concept that the width of the plank is going to be different at the stern and bow, and that you taper the plank only on the top. So is that spilling? I thought it was cutting the plank so it is curved on the edge and not straight.
  13. Zack Soderquist

    Edge Bending Planks

    Jim, I've read the articles from there on planking. I saw some ways to do this on the outside of the hull, although it is still not completely clear, once I do it on another model it will make more sense. Where I am still lost is how to do this on the inside of the hull, also the hull is only 7" long so it's pretty small to work with.
  14. I am brand new to model ship building and my first kit is the 18th century longboat by model shipways. I am working on the riser that goes on the inside of the hull below the cap rail. The instructions say to use a strip of paper to determine the curve of the riser in order to bend it on it's edge. I am not sure how I am suppose to do this. How do you determine the shape or edge bend of a plank using card paper? (I have index cards which I'm assuming would work). I've read some tutorials that talk about "spiling" a plank which I understand as determining the shape of the plank and then cutting the plank to shape instead of edge bending. But even that was not very informative about how to determine the shape or edge bend of a blank. I have a contour gage that I purchased to determine the shape of the outside of the hull and I have been successful at using the to determine the shape of the normal bend Help Please!
  15. I am brand new to model ship building. I have been reading a lot of things on planking but don't really understand battens. I am hoping to get a better understanding of what a batten is (is it a plank or something different), how to make them and how to use the properly.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×