popeye2sea
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popeye2sea's post in Terminating stays... was marked as the answer
The standing part of the runner could either have an eye spliced in the end and the eye seized to ringbolt B, or there could be an eye spliced with a hook and hooked to the ringbolt. I am fairly certain that the runner would not be spliced directly through the ringbolt.
The same can be said about the lower tackle block at ringbolt A. Except that is more likely to have a hook spliced into a becket on the block.
Most rigging is set up so that removing the line does not entail cutting the rope itself so to facilitate using the tackle in a new location without the hassle of re-splicing the line or having to re-rig an entire line because it is now too short. It is far more efficient to just cut a seizing to remove or shift the tackle.
Regards,
Henry
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popeye2sea's post in Parrals on Heller 1/100 Victory was marked as the answer
The 10/0 beads should be good to use. I used them for my main and fore yards, They may even be a bit too large. I think they may end up being too large for the upper yards. I will be looking for some 13/0 or so for those later.
I would not use anything larger than 10/0.
Regards,
Henry
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popeye2sea's post in Handling the anchors on large British frigattes (HMS Diana 1794) was marked as the answer
On Constitution, the messenger runs from the capstan forward to a viol block mounted horizontally at the inside of the stem between the hawse holes on the gun deck. There are vertical rollers placed outboard of the various stanchions that the messenger may foul on in passing. The messenger is nipped to the anchor cable. As the cable comes aboard the water drips into and is captured in the manger. The cable passes below by means of a cutout in the fore corner of the main hatch grating where it is coiled two decks below on the cable tier in the orlop/hold.
To answer your specific question, the main capstan, viol, hawse holes, messenger, and anchor cables are all on the gun deck. The cable tier is two decks below, accessible from the main hatch
Regards,
Henry
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popeye2sea's post in Question about loading tackles in 17th Century Dutch Merchant Vessels was marked as the answer
Mast tackles are used to set up the shrouds. The topmast burton tackles can also be used to give additional support to the lower yard when the yard tackles are being employed to lift heavy items.
Regards,
Henry
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popeye2sea's post in Reef line length... was marked as the answer
Falconers Dictionary of the Marine notes that reef points are nearly double the circumference of the yard. That is the total length of the reef point, half lying before the sail and the other half aft.
Regards,
Henry
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popeye2sea's post in Topgallant Storm Rig was marked as the answer
The photo shows the topmasts and topgallant masts "housed". All of the upper yards are "struck" or sent down. The topsail yards are lowered to the caps. The lower yards are also lowered to reduce weight aloft. The ship is under "bare poles," (no sails) and "scudding" (drifting) before the wind.
The ship would be forced into this condition under a heavy gale with high winds and high seas. She may have a sea anchor set out to keep her from getting beam to the waves so she doesn't capsize.
Regards,
Henry
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popeye2sea's post in Ratlines on Futtock Shrouds was marked as the answer
I was describing the lower ones. I may have misread your question. Futtock shrouds take the name from the "foot hook" or the "foot hook plates" that they hook in to. So when you said from the topmast shrouds, I assumed you had a question regarding the topmast futtock shrouds.
Given that, I do not think there was the same necessity for ratlines on the topgallant futtock shrouds. There is much less rigging that passes through the gaps in the top mast cross trees and so would not impede the climbing through of the sailors. I have not read any references to ratlines on the topgallant futtock shrouds
Regards,
Henry
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popeye2sea's post in Display base question was marked as the answer
Figures like these are more like heraldic supporters than mounts. They are designed to fit up against the ships side and bottom and give some support against the hull tipping over.
For the first picture, the tail of the sea horse (or sea Pegasus, I don't have a name for these) fits under or against the keel with the horses mane against the ships side.
In the second picture, the tails of the dolphins (yes, those are heraldic dolphins) rest against the hull.
For the third, the dogs backs go against the hull.
Dogs are an interesting choice for ship supporters. Although those look really nice.
Regards,
Henry
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popeye2sea's post in 'Tidy up the Spaghetti' was marked as the answer
Pete,
When not ready for battle the cannons would have been secured by lashing to the bulwarks of the ship. The free ends of the side tackles would be frapped (wrapped) around the fall.
Regards,
Henry
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popeye2sea's post in French 1/1 mainmast stay rope 1680-1700, La Belle 1680 was marked as the answer
The Main Stay circumference should be half of the greatest diameter of the Main mast.
In order to get the diameter of the main:
Thickest part of main mast is at deck level.
Diameter equals one inch for every 3 feet of mast length.
Main mast length is approx. 2.5 times the beam of the vessel
So, for example, vessel has 30 foot beam
Main mast length 30 x 2.5= 75 feet
Main mast diameter 75 / 3 = 25 inches
Main stay circumference 25 / 2 = 12.5 inches
Main stay diameter 12.5 / 3.14 = 3.98 inches
At 1:36 scale a 4 inch diameter rope will be 0.11 inches or 2.8 mm
Hope that helps.
Regards,
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popeye2sea's post in Ship’s Anchor Tie off was marked as the answer
I doubt that the anchor cable was tied off anywhere in board. The bulk of the cable would be below deck coiled on the cable tier. Stoppers would be employed on the deck to check the movement of the cable. The stoppers are what would be eye spliced to ring bolts in the deck with their ends hitched around the anchor cable to hold it fast. Perhaps the bitter end of the cable was made fast to a ring somewhere in the cable tier but, this is just a last ditch measure to try to prevent the complete loss of a cable overboard. It was never used to hold fast the cable in regular use.
Regards,
Henry
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popeye2sea's post in Lower and Main Mast Rope was marked as the answer
Oh, I agree the masts could be made up with lashings, just not like it is in that diagram. Yards were often made up with lashings also. But, there would have been plenty of overlap and more than one lashing.
Regards,
Henry
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popeye2sea's post in Mizzen sail - orientation? was marked as the answer
Lateen mizzen sails, drivers, spankers, etc. are all what are known as steering sails. They work by increasing or decreasing pressure on the after part of the rig. This in turn helps to keep the ship pointing into the wind in the right direction. By hauling in the sheet (bringing the sail closer to the centerline, you increase the pressure on the aft part of the rig which will pushes the stern more downwind and the bow up further into the wind. The fore sails and jibs work in the same manner but in the opposite direction, helping to push the bow off the wind.
So the answer to your question is. Set it however you find looks pleasing to you. It is more than likely to have been put in any position and adjusted depending on steering orders and fine tuning of the sail trim.
Regards,
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popeye2sea's post in Proper rigging of sheets was marked as the answer
Correct. Here are a few photos to help.
In this instance the tack line is single.
Here are the three fitted on to the clew of the sail. The clew uppermost and the sheet to the lower left.
Detail on how the clew block is seized onto the sail clew.
One way to rig if there is no sail.
Regards,
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popeye2sea's post in clipper close hauled question was marked as the answer
Since only one of the lines, tack or sheet, would be under any tension when close hauled, I can see where it would be advantageous to remove the slacked line so that there are less lines to be handled when tacking. Otherwise you would have to be easing one while hauling the other.
The tail line could be lead in any direction to help control the clew of the sail while rigging or unrigging the tack or sheet.. In effect it replaces the tack or sheet that was removed.
Regards,
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popeye2sea's post in How to attach the sails to the yards (late 16th century) was marked as the answer
What you have there is called marling. It would be used to gasket the furled sail to the yard.
The problem with using that to bend on a sail is that if one piece parted the whole sail would blow out because the whole thing is one piece of rope with a series of half hitches.
You would need to have the individual robands as shown in your lower diagrams in order to properly bend on a sail. The proper roband hitch varied across time and also when utilized on an upper or lower yard.
Regards,
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popeye2sea's post in Drawing Symbol Question was marked as the answer
It is a long rope strop with the entire length between the heart and the bowsprit covered with the seizing or serving.
Regards,
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popeye2sea's post in Flag halyard to shroud? was marked as the answer
There is no excess rope to a flag halyard. It runs as a continuous loop from the clip or toggle at the top of the flag up through a block then back to a clip or toggle at the bottom of the flag. The resulting loop should be long enough to reach to wherever it will be belayed. The two parts of halyard rope that are now hanging below the flag can be married together and belayed with a simple clove hitch to any object.
Regards,
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