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Proper rigging of sheets


Bill97
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I am currently building the Heller HMS Victory. My build can be found here on MSW in the index under Bill97. I am using Longridge’s book as a major reference source. I have reached the point in my rigging where I will soon be adding all the sheets and clews. I am not going to display my Victory in full sail. I am either going to leave the sails off all together or maybe tightly furled. My question is how do I rig the sheets on the masts and yards if I will not be adding sails?  I know that if I had full sails the sheets would reeve through a block at the corner of the sail, but what do I do with the sheet line if there is no sail. I have a building instruction from another manufacturer that shows how to rig the sheets with no sails but I am not sure if it is accurate. I can’t get my head around how that rigging plan would change if sails were added. 

Edited by Bill97
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13 hours ago, Bill97 said:

but what do I do with the sheet line if there is no sail.

Well that is simple to solve really.  Rig the sheet block to the lower yard end as you would normally.  Rig your clew line to the sheet just prior to reeving through the block, then continue your sheet down and along the yard to the sheet block at the base of the yard/mast.  If you want to rig the tack to the clew that would normally be on  the main yard/sail....then simply rig your forward and aft tack blocks to a clew block.  Make sure all these lines reeving through these blocks are evenly taught.  the clew going up to its block and both for and aft tack lines are going down to their belay points.

 

You can see the block arrangement just under the fore main yard on this model of Thermopylae. Two blocks tied together and the tack lines going forward and aft.image.png.cc0c33903ebc24c3ad7c0e36ace1ef95.png

Current build:

Build log: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25382-glory-of-the-seas-medium-clipper-1869-by-rwiederrich-196

 

 

Finished build:

Build log: of 1/128th Great Republic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13740-great-republic-by-rwiederrich-four-masted-extreme-clipper-1853/#

 

Current build(On hold):

Build log: 1/96  Donald McKay:http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4522-donald-mckay-medium-clipper-by-rwiederrich-1855/

 

Completed build:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/475-196-cutty-sark-plastic/

The LORD said, "See, I have set (them) aside...with skills of all kinds, to make artistic designs for work in gold, silver, and bronze, to cut and set stones, to work in wood, and to engage in all kinds of crafts."

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16 hours ago, Bill97 said:

I am either going to leave the sails off all together or maybe tightly furled.

Good for you.  Sails at this scale usually look like ugly door mats unless made of non-woven materials like silk span.    As to rigging these lines without the sails, David Lees shows this in high detail in his book on rigging.    I am traveling with no access to my books otherwise would transcribe his drawings and post for you.   The below is for a late 17th century ship but it may give you a better idea of how the tacks, braces and sheets would be rigged with no sails.  If you wish, PM me and I can email you a clearer copy of this drawing as well as for the upper yards. 

Allan

1058887673_RiggingrunningLoweryards11Litchfield1695scale1to64.JPG.391c66f43c0f6b063e467260f0ed167d.JPG

 

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Thanks gentlemen. I attached a page from a different manufacturer of the Victory kit. This is easy to understand and follow. Is it accurate if go without sails? In actual use on a ship would the block at the end of the sheet up near the yard and clew in this diagram be rigged to the corner of the corresponding sail? 

CCDA5204-9374-4C47-BCCA-702DE5149980.jpeg

Edited by Bill97
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2 hours ago, Bill97 said:

Thanks gentlemen. I attached a page from a different manufacturer of the Victory kit. This is easy to understand and follow. Is it accurate if go without sails? In actual use on a ship would the block at the end of the sheet up near the yard and clew in this diagram be rigged to the corner of the corresponding sail? 

CCDA5204-9374-4C47-BCCA-702DE5149980.jpeg

Yes,

 

For all lower sails, the blocks for the sheet, tack, and clew lines would be attached to the lower corner of the sail when the sail is set.  For your knowledge base, the clew is the line that comes down from the yard and is used to haul the corner of the sail up when furling. The sheet is the line that leads aft from the lower corner of the sail and the tack is the line that leads forward from the corner.

 

One method of rigging these three lines on a model when there is no sail bent is to put the strops of the blocks through each other and then hoist them up part way to the yard with the clew. This is not necessarily what would have been done on an actual ship, but it has become something of a conventional usage on models because it does depict what the lines are used for.

 

Regards,

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Thanks Bill,

Looks like it could be a nice guide.   The scantlings for spars, masts and size of rigging lines are easily found in the Vadas spread sheets here at MSW so you have some great sources of detailed information from which to work. 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Thanks Allan. Unless someone advises me otherwise I am going to follow the instructions on the Caldercraft plan for the sheets, tacks, and clewlines. So if I understand correctly, just for my knowledge, if a sail was hung on the yard the bottom corner would be attached in a rig grouping at the point where the sheet meets up at the clew. Then when the sheet is pulled out to the end of the yard  the clew line would follow with the corner of the sail attached. In this design the clew and sheet work opposite each other to haul the sail in or out. In the above diagram the corner of the sail would be attached right there at the block on the sheet?  Is this correct?

Edited by Bill97
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  • Solution

Correct.  Here are a few photos to help.

 

1282035447_Sheetclewtack1.jpg.88c5b17284a5787925d5275ecea5cb1e.jpg

In this instance the tack line is single.

330819819_sheettackclewonsail.thumb.jpg.710a9480951bfdc8246924245b88afbe.jpg

Here are the three fitted on to the clew of the sail. The clew uppermost and the sheet to the lower left.

1205389681_Sailclew2.thumb.jpg.070ea4895e2872d56288342764f940b4.jpg

Detail on how the clew block is seized onto the sail clew.

857033455_sheettackclewnosail.thumb.jpg.f05a70771a372e5e47d45f9527e7152f.jpg

One way to rig if there is no sail.

 

Regards,

Edited by popeye2sea

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Thanks Popeye.  This will help a lot. I am still debating with myself if to do furled sails or no sails.  Probably leaning more toward no sails. Which ever way I go I now understand how to rig the sheets and clew. Obviously best to decide prior to rigging but if I rig the sheet and clews drawn up to the yard now as if for no sails and would then later decide to add furled sails I would just rig the the clew at the corner of the furled sail to the block at the end of the sheet. I guess that is how it was actually done on the ship?

 

By the way I very much remember blog input from you on one of my previous builds a couple years ago (great MSW name you use. Unforgettable). Can’t remember which one now. Hope you are doing well. Was up your way in Boston a while back and of course had to visit the USS Constitution!

Edited by Bill97
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Popeye mentally I have stepped away from my Victory reference this question. Not actually asking this question as it might pertain to my build, but just for my nautical knowledge. I have always been fascinated by the engineering people use to make things work. To that point the rigging of these tall ships amazes me how each and every line serves a well thought out unique purpose. This sheet, clewline, tack engineering is fascinating me and I wonder if you could answer a question for me. Again this is not necessarily for my build, just my knowledge. I am trying to figure out what the crew would do when they wanted to add a sail or remove a sail. Above you said the blocks for the sheet, tack, and clew would be attached to the corner of the sail. I am guessing in the photo below you sent me the loop that is wrapped around the clew block is attached to the sail? It is hen just pulled along to wherever this block arrangement is pulled by the lines. In the other photo from Caldercraft at the top of the 3 different sheets it shows either a large block (D) or a smaller one for the topgallant sail. It further shows the clew line reeving through these blocks and then on to its appropriate belay point. In actually practice for accuracy that should be a 2 block arrangement for the upper sails, with the clew reeving through the top one, the sheet reeving through the bottom one?  Was there away the crew were able to attach or remove the loop at the corner of the sail to this 2 or 3 block arrangement without having to take down the rigging? In the picture you sent, if the loop going around the clew block is in fact the corner of the sail I can’t see how the crew could get it in that position without removing the clewline that reeves through the clew block. In the photo from Caldercraft it shows the standing end of the clew tied off at the yard. When adding or removing a sail did the crew untie that standing end take it through the clew block and then tie it back to the yard?

4B4D36DE-AAB3-417B-8F19-1DC5D0DAFB57.jpeg

46B1CC09-5BD7-4601-9AE0-E07033066121.png

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There is a lot to unpack from your question, but I will give it a try.

First I need to clarify what we are talking about.

This is where proper nomenclature becomes important for explaining what is going on.

The loop at the lower corner of a square sail is called the clew.

One line that controls this corner is also called the clew, but to disambiguate we refer to this as the clew line.  The other lines that control the clew you already know. They are the sheet and the tack.

In your diagram above, for the main yard, the blocks that we are talking about are the ones in the triangle arrangement (D, F, and F) hanging from the mainsail clew line (R).

In my figure 194 above, the sail corner with its bolt rope is shown. The bolt rope comes down vertically. The eye for the clew of the sail extends towards the lower right and the bolt rope continues around to exit horizontally towards the left.

To affix the clew line block to the corner of the sail (the clew) the strop of the clew line block is thrust through the eye of the clew and then brought back over the eye so that the clew block strop now loops around the sail corner eye securing the clew line block to the corner of the sail. 

Then the two legs of the sheet block strop are thrust through the clew eye from opposite directions, locking the sheet block in place.

Finally, the stopper knot on the end of the tack line is thrust through the clew eye, which locks the whole together.

 

So, to answer part of your question ( I hope), the blocks at the corner of the sail are readily removeable from sail when the sail is furled or un-bent from the yard.

 

Now, on to the upper yards.

Starting again on the main yard. Out towards the end of the yard are two blocks sistered together (D and F). The upper one is for the main yard lift and the lower one is for the topsail sheet (V).

If you follow that topsail sheet line up it terminates at a clew line block (D).  This arrangement would look identical to the one described for the lower yard. The clew line block will have a strop which, when a sail is set passes through and around the clew of the topsail. The end of the sheet would be attached to the clew of the topsail with a knot called a sheet bend (I know, so original with their naming of things, right?).  The only difference between the topsail and the mainsail being that the upper sails do not require tacks.

When the sail is un-bent the sheet is simply bent on to the strop of the clew line block.

 

Last point.  For the upper yards there is no sheet block.  The sheet is lead through a sheave let in to the end of the lower yard. You can see it, vaguely, when you look at the end of the main topmast yard in your rigging diagram. The main topgallant sail sheet is passing through a slot just inboard of the main topmast yard lift block (D).

 

I know the above is a lot of strange words. But, learning the proper names for things is part of the path towards understanding how ships work.

 

Regards,

Edited by popeye2sea

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Ok Popeye I have read through your tutorial and have a couple questions for my clarification, if you don’t mind.

 

1. In my diagram the tack for the lower sail (one of the F’s) is a block with the tack reeving through it with the ends of the tack going off to two belay points. In your Fig 194 the tack is a single line with the knot.  I assume in the arrangement the single line passes through a block somewhere below before attaching to a belay point? Both methods are acceptable with there just being a difference in how the strop of the tack block would fastened?

 

2.  To correct a major misunderstanding I had that I now realize from your explanation is that the clew of the sail is removed from this configuration when the sail is furled?  Is that correct?   I was thinking the rigging configuration was maintained to the corner of the sail regardless if furled or unfurled? Removing it seems inconvenient at best, if I understand correctly.  When the crew was ordered to unfurl the sails did they then need to attach all the sail corners (clews) to the sheet and or sheet/tack rigging?

 

3.  Also for clarification only.  In the diagram I included the topmast sail sheet and the topgallant sail sheet end at a clew block (D and B). In this arrangement there is not a sheet block similar to the rigging at the mainsail?  The sheet is just attached around the clew block rather than reeving through its own block which would be attached by rigging to the clew block?  Do I have that right?

 

Thanks again Popeye. Hope you don’t mind my asking for a bit of clarification. I think what I am gathering here is if I just follow the diagram I attached and leave furled sails off I should be good to go! 😊

 

Bill

Edited by Bill97
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I don't mind answering your questions at all, Bill.  Happy to help

 

1. The tack for the lower sails (courses) can either run single or double.  For some ships the tack is just a single line coming from the sail and leading forward and down to the deck. For other ships, typically larger vessels where the course is a very large sail the tack runs double. Meaning there is a block at the clew of the sail. This is what is shown in your rigging plan. One part of the tack, called the standing part, will be seized to a ring bolt somewhere on the bulwarks of the ship. The other part, called the working or running part, after running through the block at the clew will belay on deck somewhere.

 

2. Depending on if the sail is to be set relatively soon or not would determine if the sheet, tack, and clew line were removed from the clew of the sail when furling. It is possible to furl the sail and leave the clews hanging out from the sail bundle a bit with all the rigging still attached.  This would make it expedient to let fly and set sail at a moments notice. If the ship was, say, to be in harbor for a long period, the crew would harbor furl or completely un-bend the sail from the yard and remove all the associated rigging. At this point they could attach the sheet, clew line and tack together and suspend them from the clew line block like the diagrams, or they could un-reeve and strike below the sheet and tack and just haul the clew line block up to the yard.

One additional point that may be instructive. When a lower course was to be bent on to it's yard, the clew lines, bunt lines, leech lines, etc. were overhauled and brought down till they reached the deck. All of the gear/lines were attached on deck, and then the sail was hoisted aloft to the yard by a sail tackle, it's bunt lines, leech lines, and reef tackles.

 

3. Yes, for the upper sails (topsail, topgallant, royal, etc.) there is no sheet block at the clew of the sail. The sheet is toggled or bent on to the clew of it's sail then in the case of the topgallants and royals it reeves down through a sheeve at the yard arm. For the topsail you have that sheet block that is sistered to the lift block. In all cases the sheet then passes along underneath the yard and through a leading block near the mast and then down towards the deck. Now, that is not to say that there was no tackle involved.  Particularly for larger sails like topsails there was frequently a tackle employed between that leading block and the deck.

 

Regards,

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Thanks again Popeye. I have learned a lot, I think, in just this short conversation. Hopefully the follow up questions I asked show I now have working understanding of this part of the rigging, and that you are a good instructor! 😊

From your analysis of and comments about the diagram I attached I am lead to believe if I follow it to a tee I will be good and fairly accurate. 
As I mentioned I am having this running debate with myself as to adding furled sails or no sails at all. Some builders here on MSW have strong feelings about this subject as to what makes the best display of the ship. My USS Constitution model is without sails. I have a couple ships displayed with full hand made sails, and a couple with a combination of furled and unfurled sails. My HMS Victory is going to be either no sails or all furled. I was trying to determine how to convert the rigging diagram I attached to rigging with furled sails. Your paragraph 2 above leaves me to believe either option would not require much change. If I do add furled sails I just need to decide to either detach the clews from the sail or leave them hanging out of the sail bundle. You make a very good point about a ship in harbor for a long period would un-bend the sails or harbor furl. That is the display feel I am planning for so maybe I should just go with no sails since I don’t know what harbor furl is anyway. Popeye where do you stand on sails for model ships? I definitely don’t use the plastic molded forms that come with the kit. Any time I add sails I sew them myself. 

Edited by Bill97
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I do not take a stance on sails or no.  On the one hand, a sailing ship is missing something when there are no sails. On the other hand, for a scale model, it is very difficult to get sails to look right or to scale. Furled sails can make a good compromise.  I have done all my previous models with full sails. One even included all of the studding sails. It is a very impressive sight, but the sails do obscure much of the ship.

My current build will have a combination of furled and set sails. She will be depicted as cleared for action with cannons run out on one side, close hauled under battle sail.

 

Do whatever you feel works for you.  It's your model.

 

Just an side note. You have mentioned several times in your previous posts something about removing or detaching the clews from the sails.  The clew of the sail is physically part of the sail. It can not be detached. I think I understand what you are referring to though is removing the rigging (sheets, clew garnet blocks, tacks) from the clew. Yes?

 

Regards,

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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A harbor furl is basically a tighter, more compact rolling up of the sail on top of the yard. The last fold of the canvas is stretched like a skin over the top of the sail bundle. The gaskets used to hold the sail to the yard are longer and put on more securely. I think also that the clews of the sail are also tucked in to the sail bundle as opposed to leaving those corners hanging out with the rigging attached.  The purpose of all this is to keep as much water out of the sail bundle as possible so that the sail does not rot while the ship is going to be in harbor for a while and the sail is to stay on the yard.

 

Regards,

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Thanks again Popeye. That might be an idea to tinker around with as an idea. 
One last question Popeye and then I will stop picking your brain. A little ways back you said 

 

“One method of rigging these three lines on a model when there is no sail bent is to put the strops of the blocks through each other and then hoist them up part way to the yard with the clew.”  
 

In the diagram I attached for this conversation it shows this arrangement hoisted up close to the yard and actually gives a measurement of 25mm or 30mm. In the plan I have  from my reference book on the Victory written by Longridge it shows this arrangement drawn almost all the way out to the block on the yard (see attached diagram from Longridge).  Was there a standard for where this arrangement would have been positioned when sails were not present, or is it just a matter of visual preference?

 

A204F3E3-BD1B-4885-83E5-17A9467AB992.jpeg

58048AFF-4CD9-4461-975E-DFF4B5E3F7C6.jpeg

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15 hours ago, popeye2sea said:

A harbor furl is basically a tighter, more compact rolling up of the sail on top of the yard. The last fold of the canvas is stretched like a skin over the top of the sail bundle. The gaskets used to hold the sail to the yard are longer and put on more securely. I think also that the clews of the sail are also tucked in to the sail bundle as opposed to leaving those corners hanging out with the rigging attached.  The purpose of all this is to keep as much water out of the sail bundle as possible so that the sail does not rot while the ship is going to be in harbor for a while and the sail is to stay on the yard.

 

Regards,

This is what I attempted to achieve on Glory of the Seas.  I found it provided relief from replicating and modeling the jackstays, since they were hidden underneath the tightly furled sail on top of them.  It's a furl I had not replicated on any earlier models I've built...and it seamed prudent at this time because of the specific period I am modeling Glory....not to mention it truly lends a distinct *different* element, then your typical loose airy furled sails.  Different is good.

 

Rob 

Current build:

Build log: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25382-glory-of-the-seas-medium-clipper-1869-by-rwiederrich-196

 

 

Finished build:

Build log: of 1/128th Great Republic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13740-great-republic-by-rwiederrich-four-masted-extreme-clipper-1853/#

 

Current build(On hold):

Build log: 1/96  Donald McKay:http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4522-donald-mckay-medium-clipper-by-rwiederrich-1855/

 

Completed build:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/475-196-cutty-sark-plastic/

The LORD said, "See, I have set (them) aside...with skills of all kinds, to make artistic designs for work in gold, silver, and bronze, to cut and set stones, to work in wood, and to engage in all kinds of crafts."

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20 hours ago, Bill97 said:

Thanks again Popeye. That might be an idea to tinker around with as an idea. 
One last question Popeye and then I will stop picking your brain. A little ways back you said 

 

“One method of rigging these three lines on a model when there is no sail bent is to put the strops of the blocks through each other and then hoist them up part way to the yard with the clew.”  
 

In the diagram I attached for this conversation it shows this arrangement hoisted up close to the yard and actually gives a measurement of 25mm or 30mm. In the plan I have  from my reference book on the Victory written by Longridge it shows this arrangement drawn almost all the way out to the block on the yard (see attached diagram from Longridge).  Was there a standard for where this arrangement would have been positioned when sails were not present, or is it just a matter of visual preference?

 

A204F3E3-BD1B-4885-83E5-17A9467AB992.jpeg

This is one confusing drawing.  We are looking at the starboard side profile of the mast. But the yards are depicted as swung completely around fore and aft on the starboard side of the mast so we are looking at he forward side of the port yardarm.

On the lower yard, the sheet, tack and clew garnet for the course (lower sail) are depicted as I had described hanging below the yard near the mast. Where this arrangement of blocks ends up hanging is completely determined by where the clew line and the clew line block are seized to the yard.  Depending on the era of the vessel the position of the clew block varied from 1/3 to 1/2 or more out from the center of the yard. The positioning of the clew line had to do with the way that the sails were furled which changed over the years.

That block suspended approximately level with them on what looks like a pendant seized at the yard arm appears to be a yard tackle with an additional tricing line attached at the block.

 

Regards,

 

Of course, after rereading your question I see that you are referring to the topsail sheet and clew garnet.🙄

I think that whatever point the block was suspended at would be determined by the sailing master. My personal opinion is that since the topsail gear was attached to the sail by men in the top when the sail was being bent on that they would want these lines handy near the top to accomplish this without delay or unnecessary additional work. 

Edited by popeye2sea

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Can you guys tell me where specifically the spritsail topsail yard clueline belays?  One set of instructions I read says to belay to the beakhead fife rail I am not sure what that is or where at the beakhead. Longridge on page 239 just says belay on forecastle. 

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That I can not tell you. Your instructions must have a belaying plan somewhere.

 

The beakhead is the small deck or grating that extends from the bow of the ship under the bowsprit to the stem of the ship.  Some ships there is a fife rail situated on that deck. Other times there might be a fife rail on the forecastle. Or the lines might belay directly to the rail of beakhead bulkhead (the forward rail of the forecastle).

 

Regards,

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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