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popeye2sea

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About popeye2sea

  • Birthday 11/09/1961

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  1. The only reference I found in Falconers Marine Dictionary referred to sharp as in sharp bottomed as opposed to flat or full bottomed. Regards,
  2. At 1:250 scale a 2mm block works out to be about 20 inches which is a pretty big block. It would be used for a line of about 2 inch diameter. That being said, I think the 2mm blocks would probably look good. I don't think you are going to find any smaller unless you want to substitute tiny beads. Regards,
  3. Normally, the blocks on a yard are positioned relative to the center of that particular yard. For example: quarter blocks to be placed just outside the yard cleat. Clew line blocks to be placed one third the distance out from the center. Brace blocks placed just outside the yard arm cleat. etc. Regards,
  4. No, not confusing the laniard for seizings. I do believe the seizing thread is a bit too thick. The size of the laniard is pretty well spot on. It should be 1/2 the thickness or a bit less than the shroud. The seizing should be of a size that will give you 6 or 8 round turns on the shroud. My point was that if you use a thinner thread for the seizings it would make it easier to bury the bitter end without having to use glue to secure it. Regards,
  5. Sorry, I'm around early 19th century ships and history so much that the the language almost comes naturally to me. Ask away. I'm here to help. Regards,
  6. IMO the seizing line you are using is still way too thick. I believe you will get better results if you use thinner line. You can then bury the end of the line easier after the crossing turns by passing it through the seizing or through a strand of the shroud with a needle.
  7. My two cents worth: Mount the lower deadeyes to the channels with the metal strops and chains. Constructing the shroud pairs: Measure the length from the mast head to the deadeyes and then double it. Use this length to make each shroud pair, then add some extra for turning in the upper deadeyes. Middle the shroud and mark the center point. If you wish to add worming, parcelling and serving do so now by servicing the middle third of each shroud pair. The forward most shroud is serviced its entire length. Form a bend in the center of the shroud pair of a size that will fit over the mast head and mark the point where the shroud pair passes over the trestle trees below the bolster. Clap on a round seizing just below this point. It is easier if you do all the above prep work off the ship. Complete all of your shroud pairs. If you have an odd number of shrouds one one each side will be mounted singly with its own eye or the port and starboard single shrouds will be joined by means of a cont splice Hoisting aboard the shrouds: If you are mounting mast tackle pendants they go over the mast head first. Use the jig that Mark mentioned above to set the position of the upper deadeyes for the first shroud pair. Put the eye of the first starboard shroud pair over the mast head. Lead the shrouds down and turn in the upper deadeye. Where the end crosses behind the standing part (looking from the outside of the ship) clap on a throat seizing. The seizing will look like it is laying on top of the deadeye with the end of the shroud parallel to the standing part. Bring the end of the shroud up alongside the standing part and clap on a round seizing a short distance above the throat seizing and then another round seizing the same distance again above that. Don't trim the end of the shroud above the seizings until you have set up all of the shroud pairs for their full due with the laniards. You can do all of this work off the ship too if you mark where the shroud end crosses at the top point of the upper deadeye Next put the first port shroud pair over the mast head. Repeat alternating starboard and port pairs until all the shrouds are over the mast head Reeve the laniards through the upper and lower deadeyes, but do not haul taut yet. Next over the mast head are the stays. Setting up the shrouds: Once the stays are hauled forward and set up taut you can then set up the shrouds. Haul taut the laniards in pairs alternating port and starboard so that you maintain equal tension on all shrouds. I have heard it said that it is easier to maintain a balanced tension if you start with the aft-most pair first (personally untried). Once the shroud is set up the laniard end is passed between the throat seizing and the upper deadeye with a hitch and the end is stopped to is own part. Well maybe that was five or six cents worth. Regards,
  8. Running rigging can be roughly broken down into two parts: that which controls the movement and support of the yards and that which controls the sails. The rigging instruction sections will be nearly identical with respect to the lines which control the yards. Every yard will have halyards, lifts, braces. The differences will become apparent when you consider the sails. Sails are controlled by sheets, tacks, clews, bunt lines and leech lines. Fore and aft sails have uphauls and downhauls. Depending on which sails you choose to model will determine which lines you can exclude from your plan. I hope that makes things a bit clearer. Regards,
  9. The spanker and the driver were originally different sails. The spanker sets from a gaff on the mizzen mast. It started out as the loose footed mizzen sail which was itself a modification of the lateen mizzen of the 17th century. At this point it is still referred to as the mizzen sail. By the late 18th century the foot was extended by a boom. The driver was a sort of studdingsail that was set in addition to the mizzen. The head of this sail was extended by a small yard that was hoisted by a halyard in the center to the peak of the gaff. When set square the foot was sheeted out to a boom lashed athwartships to the taffrail and extending out from the sides of the ship. The driver could also be set more fore and aft as sort of an extension or enlargement of the mizzen in which case its boom was lashed to extend the boom of the mizzen. (BTW, I think it is at this point that you start to have problems with interference with the ensign flag staff) Eventually, this enlarged and extended fore and aft mizzen/driver combination becomes standard and is called the spanker sail. Regards,
  10. Cleats seized to the shrouds is probably the most appropriate method. Regards,
  11. My personal opinion is that we, as a culture, generally do not use bidets so the toilet paper needs to be more disposable and flushable and so it is is literally made out of tissue paper. I may be completely wrong here so... Regards,
  12. If "susbandes" indeed refers to the cap squares for the trunnions, I think they look perfect. Regards,

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