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About popeye2sea

  • Birthday 11/09/1961

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    Boston, MA

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  1. It seems that the people who make these plans have very little clew😉 about how a ship rig works. They see a line that passes down the front of the sail and figure that it must attach to something that happens to be in the same area in the back. Of course, not knowing any better they do not even think about bunt lines or leech lines. I wonder if those lines are anywhere in your rigging plan, Mike. Regards,
  2. Clew lines rig on the back side of the sail only. The standing end is timber hitched to the yard a little outboard of the block. I then runs down to the clew garnet block at the lower corner of the sail and and back up to the clew block on the yard. The hauling end is then often rove through another leading block closer to the mast before being led down to the deck and belayed. Think about how that line would work if it was rigged as per the diagram. It would bind on the sail at the clew garnet block and get fouled. Bunt lines, leech lines, and bowlines are rigged in front of the sail. Regards,
  3. I think what you are experiencing is very common to scale modelling. Aesthetically, the proper size rope can appear too heavy for the model. Although you use the exact right size for the rigging the overall look of the rig will appear to be overpowering. It is often said to err on the small side if you have to make a choice. If you look at the rigging of a real ship it appears to be almost delicate with plenty of space between each element. On the model everything is compressed together and that delicate feeling can be lost. Regards,
  4. Leave the ends stoppered or lashed to the eyebolts. The tackles would only be rigged if needed in an emergency. Regards,
  5. To operate davits like these you would hook the falls to the boats and hoist them up so that they are suspended. You then rotate the davits in towards each other. One davit leading the other so that one end of the boat is able to pass between the davits followed by the other end as the second davit is rotated. Once the boat has passed between the davits you can square them up again with the boat hanging parallel to the hull above the water. Lower away and unhook the falls when the boat swims. The chain attached to the rudder is there for steering emergencies. In the event that the steering gear is disabled you can rig tackles to the end of the chains and run them inboard in order to operate the rudder. Regards,
  6. What is happening here is that the boats are being stored on skids so that the falls that would be used to hoist them out are temporarily hooked onto the davits. The lower blocks normally have a hook on the block that hooks into a ring on the boat for lowering into the water. You can rig the falls either up and down on the davits or diagonally across to the opposite davit. Either way they are not actually doing anything with respect to the boats when they are on the boat skids. The hauling end of the falls sometimes belay to a cleat on the davit. That extra bit that appears to go to the boat (labelled B?) in the first photo is totally wrong and should not be rigged. What would actually be holding the boats down to the skid are two ropes called gripes, which would be attached to the skids on either side of the boat and pass over the boat holding it firmly down. Regards,
  7. Incorrect. The camber of a deck is its athwartships arching. The pitch or sheer of a deck is its slope fore and aft. The Mirriam Webster definition of camber is: To curve upward in the middle. To arch slightly. A slight convexity, arching, or curvature (as of a beam ,deck, or road) The main point in common with all the references I have seen is that camber is a description of arching upwards in the middle of something. Comes from the old French chambre and Latin camur meaning bent, crooked, or arched. Regards,
  8. There are very few actual knots used on a ship. The most used are the square knot and the Matthew Walker knot, which is a variation on a wall and crown, also common as a stopper knot for the end of a line. The others are hitches like the clove, cow, timber, and rolling hitch: bends like the becket bend: splices like the round, long, cont, and grommet: and seizings like the round,throat, and racking seizings. There are also different lashings as in the rose lashing. Knots are primarily used to form a stopper on the end of a line. Hitches and bends are used to join two ropes in a removable fashion. Splices join ropes more permanently or form loops in a line Seizings and lashings marry two items together. Regards,
  9. Will there be a balcony in front to get access to the pie cooling rack? Regards,
  10. I agree with John. But, if you do go with barrels/casks you almost can't go wrong choosing a size. Casks came in a multitude of sizes and shapes. Regards,
  11. Single tyes would be more appropriate for your upper yards. I would think that a notch in the center of the timber batten truss would allow room for the tye sling. You could either notch the side nearest the yard so that the sling would appear to pass through the batten or notch the side nearest the mast. Passing the sling closest to the yard would negate the possibility of friction against the mast when hoisting the yard. Hope that makes sense. Regards,
  12. You are talking about two different things. One is the halyard. The other is the truss/sling. Allans photo above is for the truss/sling which will hold the yard in close to the mast. The halyard hoists the yard. Your instructions call for the halyard tye to be seized in a bight at the center of the yard. If you look at my build log for the soleil royale and scroll back a few pages (post #154 last few photos ) you will see a photo of how this should look. In that photo the only part that is missing is the seizing of the two parts together just above where the hitch crosses the standing part of the tye. On mine there are two tyes because it is a lower yard. Regards,
  13. I will try to answer your questions, but you must realize that my answers are only generalities, you should do some research for what is appropriate for your particular ship/situation. 1. Building up your mast collars with thread wrappings glued around the mast should work. 2. Yes, the deadeyes for the backstays can be the same as the shrouds. 3. The backstay tackle should be at least double blocks. Treble is good too. 4. Wood hearts were sometimes used on the fore stays. 5. Ship riggers always take into account the loads that each part of the rig must bear. The height of the mast was not the important part. Rigging diameter was calculated based on the weight of the yards and sails and those numbers decrease as you go further aloft. 6. Laniards for shrouds should be half, or a bit less, than their respective shrouds. The same goes for stays. 7. In my opinion if you are going to set up your yards in the normal manner (not set flying) then you need to have halyards, lifts, braces, and parrels for all. I hope that helps. Regards,
  14. I'm really liking this build. Such great character to all the buildings. Regards,

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