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About popeye2sea

  • Birthday 11/09/1961

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    Arlington, MA

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  1. That is correct. The lower stu'ns'l boom has a gooseneck hook in the forward end which sets into and pivots in an eyebolt on the fore end of the channel. The boom is swung out and guyed in position to spread the foot of the fore course stu'ns'l. Regards,
  2. What you have there is called marling. It would be used to gasket the furled sail to the yard. The problem with using that to bend on a sail is that if one piece parted the whole sail would blow out because the whole thing is one piece of rope with a series of half hitches. You would need to have the individual robands as shown in your lower diagrams in order to properly bend on a sail. The proper roband hitch varied across time and also when utilized on an upper or lower yard. Regards,
  3. Trade winds. They are called trade winds because they predominantly blow from the one direction, thus making it easier to establish cheaper trade routes. Square sails generate more power than fore and aft sails. Once you set and trim your square sails for the trade wind you shouldn't have to re trim. Saves time and money. Regards,
  4. I think you could accomplish making a framework of the sail from the bolt rope only, but, just trying to think it through, you would have a problem with the bolt ropes sagging inward or outward when you put tension on the corners of the sails via the rigging. Perhaps if you used wire instead of rope for the bolt rope? Regards,
  5. Who makes this table? Can you tell us where you got it? It's exactly what I have been looking for. Regards,
  6. I agree. A brace (or any other line) would never have been belayed to a boat skid beam. Regards,
  7. I think cat falls, like top ropes, were rigged as needed. But halyards and jeer falls are another story. Regards,
  8. I have never been able to get an answer to the same question regarding stowage of jeer or halyard lines. Yes, that is true for ships from the late 17th century on. But the same conundrum would occur for earlier periods where the lower yards were shifted much more frequently and consequently the halyards were probably left rigged. Would you then have a very large coil on the gun decks fouling the cannons or capstans? Would you lead the bitter end down to the cable tier for coiling? Again, I have no answer. Regards,
  9. For belaying line directly to a rail a clove hitch will work just fine. I don't know how accurate it is, but I have seen on modern replica ships like L'Hermione that the jeer falls were made up with long hanks into a gasket coil and hitched vertically to the falls so that they hang abaft the mast. Regards
  10. I had a similar experience while serving in USS Blandy DD-943. We put her in dry dock and when the water was pumped out we found a sea turtle in the dock with us. Turtle soup for chow. Regards,
  11. I would have an eyebolt on the back of those bands to seize the strop of the blocks to. Regards,
  12. Something like a sheer hulk. Except this one is still able to sail. Regards,
  13. It's not clear from your question what parts you are referring to. Are you asking how to attach the strop of a block to a mast band or are you asking how to attach a line coming from the block? The strop is the rope that passes around a block and allows the block to be suspended from a fitting or spar. Not sure where you are referring to, but blocks would not normally be attached directly to a mast band. There would have been an eye bolted through or into the band. In which case the eye of the block would be seized to the eye on the band. The seizing would take the form of a lashing between the two eyes. If the block was stropped with a hook, then the hook would be hooked into the eye on the band. Another method for attaching a block to a mast would be to have a long strop with eyes on both legs of the strop. The legs were passed around the mast and the eyes lashed together on the opposite side with a rose lashing. Regards,
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