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popeye2sea

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About popeye2sea

  • Birthday 11/09/1961

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    Boston, MA

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  1. Mostly by tradition, the mizzen mast tackles are referred to as burton tackles. Generally, a burton tackle is a lighter tackle. Maybe that is why the mast tackle on the mizzen is referred to that way. Regards,
  2. Manpower only. No capstan. Those are five part tackles and there are two on each boat. So the force needed for each hauling part is something like 200 pounds. Not difficult for a few sailors on each tackle. Regards, Henry
  3. In order to set up a yard and stay hoisting rig (which is what that lifting rig is called) you need two separate hauling parts. One tackle is rigged over the main hatch with the tackle attached to the main stay. The other tackle is a yard tackle suspended from the lower yard arm. The lower blocks for both tackles come together and are hooked into the sling holding the load. In order to launch a boat. Step 1. Hoist away on the stay tackle, which is directly over the load, so that the load is high enough to clear the side bulwarks. The yard tackle holds fast or takes up slack. The stay tackle bears the load. Step 2. Haul the load outboard by heaving on the yard tackle. The stay tackle is eased as needed. Both tackles bear the load. Step 3. Once the load is directly beneath the yard tackle outboard of the ship, lower away on the yard tackle. Ease the stay tackle as needed. The stay tackle bears the load until the boat is in the water. The process is reversed for getting cargo into the ship. Regards, Henry P.S. The actual rig is slightly more complicated because you need relieving lifts and rolling tackles on the yard to help it bear the weight of the load. P.P.S I took a ship loading operations course for the US Navy Military Sealift Command. I found the yard and stay rig to be the most fun to rig and operate. The gantry crane with a container spreader being a close second. Regards, Henry
  4. The 10/0 beads should be good to use. I used them for my main and fore yards, They may even be a bit too large. I think they may end up being too large for the upper yards. I will be looking for some 13/0 or so for those later. I would not use anything larger than 10/0. Regards, Henry
  5. I believe rope was sold by the fathom. Cables were made in lengths of 100 fathoms and different rope sizes were made to a certain weight standard. For instance 100 fathoms of 14 inch cable was to weigh 41 cwt. Cablets were made in 120 fathom lengths, and Hawsers were made in 130 fathom lengths. 130 fathoms of 4 inch hawser weighed 5 cwt. Information is from Steels elements of rope making. Regards, Henry
  6. The standing part of the runner could either have an eye spliced in the end and the eye seized to ringbolt B, or there could be an eye spliced with a hook and hooked to the ringbolt. I am fairly certain that the runner would not be spliced directly through the ringbolt. The same can be said about the lower tackle block at ringbolt A. Except that is more likely to have a hook spliced into a becket on the block. Most rigging is set up so that removing the line does not entail cutting the rope itself so to facilitate using the tackle in a new location without the hassle of re-splicing the line or having to re-rig an entire line because it is now too short. It is far more efficient to just cut a seizing to remove or shift the tackle. Regards, Henry
  7. Perhaps you could ask the moderators to move your build log to the correct sub-forum: Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750. Regards, Henry
  8. On Constitution, the messenger runs from the capstan forward to a viol block mounted horizontally at the inside of the stem between the hawse holes on the gun deck. There are vertical rollers placed outboard of the various stanchions that the messenger may foul on in passing. The messenger is nipped to the anchor cable. As the cable comes aboard the water drips into and is captured in the manger. The cable passes below by means of a cutout in the fore corner of the main hatch grating where it is coiled two decks below on the cable tier in the orlop/hold. To answer your specific question, the main capstan, viol, hawse holes, messenger, and anchor cables are all on the gun deck. The cable tier is two decks below, accessible from the main hatch Regards, Henry
  9. It is, indeed sir, a pleasure to make your acquaintance. You are most welcome here. Best of luck in finding someone to take on your estimable commission. I remain, sir, your most obedient and humble servant. Henry
  10. A lot of modelers go the extra effort to approximate the correct size and style of blocks. Although there are far too many, in reality, to ever model correctly. Many modelers I see on MSW toss out the kit blocks in favor of making or purchasing more convincingly real versions. Regards, Henry
  11. I think I read somewhere that the diameter of the lanyard for deadeyes and hearts is 1/2 (or slightly less) than the diameter of the stay or shroud. Regards, Henry
  12. The rational for a fully served shroud is to reduce chafe from the sails and associated rigging when the yards are braced around. So, if the mast that you are rigging only has a fore and aft sail, then I do not believe a fully served forward shroud is warranted. Regards, Henry
  13. Oh, I agree with you there. Mine is just too comfortable someti........zzzzzzz.
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