Snowmans
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Snowmans got a reaction from dewalt57 in Triton Cross Section by Snowmans
Got a few more beams in place over the weekend, they need to get a bit of a sand to tidy them up but they turned out ok. I dont have gaps that are too big, so I am happy about that. Still shaping the knees to fit so that will be next weekends job, hopefully.
Latest pictures
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Snowmans got a reaction from dewalt57 in Triton Cross Section by Snowmans
I have fixed the beams in place and started cutting the notches out. Just a dry fit here to see how it looks. Still a bit of tidying up to do yet.
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Snowmans got a reaction from dewalt57 in Triton Cross Section by Snowmans
I removed the handle and the piece from the top of the blade. The handle was washed with a degreaser to remove the grime then sanded lightly. Finished with an oil and wax. The top piece wax sanded and a rust converter used to kill the rust then a black etch primer sprayed. Blade I went over with a scraper to reove rust and dirt. Then rust converter to kill rust and followed with sanding with a fine sanding sponge (about 1000 grit) to polish. Lastly a coat of metal polish to keep the rust off. I inherited a box of tools from my grandfather and there is a few that need a bit of work to get them into a usable state.
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Snowmans got a reaction from harvey1847 in Triton Cross Section by Snowmans
Daniel - I put on 3 coats with about 8 hours between. Rubbed in a generous amount of oil then wiped all the excess off and let dry before the next coat. No brush used, I had a piece of soft cotton cloth rolled into a wad. Similar to cheesecloth or muttoncloth. Used a second piece to wipe excess off.
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Snowmans got a reaction from dewalt57 in Triton Cross Section by Snowmans
The photos dont show the true color as they weretaken at night under flourescent light. I will try to get a couple of better ones up over the next few days.
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Snowmans got a reaction from dewalt57 in Triton Cross Section by Snowmans
Here is the last photos before I put the oil on. I have masked off the top so when I fix the beams this will be clear of oil and the glue will stick. I am thinking the treenails may come out darker than I first thought.
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Snowmans got a reaction from dewalt57 in Triton Cross Section by Snowmans
Here are some better photos of the build so far. All the holes drilled for treenails and the first of the stain samples.
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Snowmans got a reaction from nobotch in Thickness Sander
Here are some pictures of the thickness sander I built last year for my Triton cross section build. It is powered by a drill and takes a half sheet of standard size sandpaper. The metal shaft is fitted through two bearings recessed into the sides, then several wooden discs fixed to the shaft. There is a couple if holes drilled in the shaft and a small nail through each fixed to a couple of the wooden discs so they wouldnt spin. I then glued a sheet of sandpaper to a flat board and set this on the bed, turned on the drill and raised the bed to sand the surface flat to the table. The hole on top was put in later an is is to fit the vacuum hose and makes this unit virtually dust free. The drill is fixed in place but can be removed by a single screw at the handle end. I have a couple of drills so havent had to remove this yet. Being variable speed I can adjust for the fine sanding or for the first thicknessing.
Can open up to about 60mm deep and is 120mm wide. I have sanded down to 1mm succesfully and the thickness is set by the bolt at the rear of the table. Sandpaper is fixed a wooden shaft with a slot to fit the flat bar to hold the sheet in place. The only parts I paid for were the split pins that hold the shaft in place, the rest I had lying around the shed. It has now had a tidy up and a bit of paint on the top.
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Snowmans got a reaction from 1492 in Thickness Sander
Yes, Davis is correct. The timber is fed in against the rotation of the sandpaper. I make sure the pieces are longer than 200mm so I have a hand hold at each end. Or finger hold for the smaller sizes! Also I stand to the side so when a length get away it goes across the shed rather than into me.
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Snowmans got a reaction from cristikc in Thickness Sander
Here are some pictures of the thickness sander I built last year for my Triton cross section build. It is powered by a drill and takes a half sheet of standard size sandpaper. The metal shaft is fitted through two bearings recessed into the sides, then several wooden discs fixed to the shaft. There is a couple if holes drilled in the shaft and a small nail through each fixed to a couple of the wooden discs so they wouldnt spin. I then glued a sheet of sandpaper to a flat board and set this on the bed, turned on the drill and raised the bed to sand the surface flat to the table. The hole on top was put in later an is is to fit the vacuum hose and makes this unit virtually dust free. The drill is fixed in place but can be removed by a single screw at the handle end. I have a couple of drills so havent had to remove this yet. Being variable speed I can adjust for the fine sanding or for the first thicknessing.
Can open up to about 60mm deep and is 120mm wide. I have sanded down to 1mm succesfully and the thickness is set by the bolt at the rear of the table. Sandpaper is fixed a wooden shaft with a slot to fit the flat bar to hold the sheet in place. The only parts I paid for were the split pins that hold the shaft in place, the rest I had lying around the shed. It has now had a tidy up and a bit of paint on the top.
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Snowmans got a reaction from 1492 in Thickness Sander
Here are some pictures of the thickness sander I built last year for my Triton cross section build. It is powered by a drill and takes a half sheet of standard size sandpaper. The metal shaft is fitted through two bearings recessed into the sides, then several wooden discs fixed to the shaft. There is a couple if holes drilled in the shaft and a small nail through each fixed to a couple of the wooden discs so they wouldnt spin. I then glued a sheet of sandpaper to a flat board and set this on the bed, turned on the drill and raised the bed to sand the surface flat to the table. The hole on top was put in later an is is to fit the vacuum hose and makes this unit virtually dust free. The drill is fixed in place but can be removed by a single screw at the handle end. I have a couple of drills so havent had to remove this yet. Being variable speed I can adjust for the fine sanding or for the first thicknessing.
Can open up to about 60mm deep and is 120mm wide. I have sanded down to 1mm succesfully and the thickness is set by the bolt at the rear of the table. Sandpaper is fixed a wooden shaft with a slot to fit the flat bar to hold the sheet in place. The only parts I paid for were the split pins that hold the shaft in place, the rest I had lying around the shed. It has now had a tidy up and a bit of paint on the top.
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Snowmans got a reaction from fatih79 in Triton Cross Section by Snowmans
I am part way through the Cross Section build, and will put up all the pictures I had. The text will have to be reduced to a few notes. This is my first attempt at scratch building, and all the timber used is cut down from what I have in the shed. Mostly recycled native timber beams, or logs that have been drying for several years. I have been working on this now for about 18 months.
Sanded to thickness.
Home built thickness sander.
Ready to start cutting.
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