SailorGreg

Hi Nils,

In this context PE stands for photo-etch, or photo-etched brass sheet - which is exactly what you are using.

Fantastic build - I enjoyed your Pamir build very much and look forward to the next steps on Gorch Fock.

Greg

Hold fire on the paint if you are going to epoxy the hull. You are right to wonder if the paint will affect the bonding of the resin - yes it will. Patience my friend - your lovely hull will look gorgeous in its own time!

Greg

Wow Danny - you must have come back from your holiday, dropped your case in the hall and walked straight through to the workshop!

Lovely work as always.

Greg

Some other sites which specialise more heavily in RC boats have build logs of various mahogany-planked models, with both wood and plastic substrate on to which the mahogany planks are glued. The consensus seems to be medium viscosity CA with the kicker/accelerator, although there are, as you would expect, differing views. Some use CA to tack the plank in place while using PVA or other wood glue for most of the glued surface. I am about to start a Dumas kit of a Chris Craft runabout (timber-on-timber planking) and will probably go down the CA route.

(If you want to find relevant build logs, try searching "Dumas" or "Legend Model Boats" here or the RC sites)

Any laid rope, scale or fullsize, will unravel if cut and left to its own devices. Some will do it quickly, some will retain its shape for a while but will not need much encouragement to unravel. It depends on various factors such as the inherent stiffness of the yarn, the tightness with which the twist was put in the individual strands, and the length of time since the rope was made. I guess kit rope will have often been made some time ago and probably from lower quality (and perhaps stiffer) yarn - it will tend to keep its shape fora while when cut. The "quality" ropes were probably made shortly before you receive them and probably use softer yarn to give a more realistic feel and look.

I would treat any laid rope to stop it unravelling when cut because even if it looks good wen you cut it, it might not look good tomorrow.

Greg

Beautiful model Ken. I look forward to more pictures - and the maiden voyage.

I thought that was the Waverley I spotted on your top shelf. I see she has no paddles - is she still unfinished, or is she "in refit"?

Greg

Would this lunch be open to everyone if we bring a few beers along? 

Wow! - another Mott Masterclass in the offing.  I am really looking forward to this, and am intrigued by your building board and can't quite figure out how you will use it...?  Time will tell no doubt.  I am prepared to wager a large sum that the 1/8 scale Ferro engine will be a work of art in its own right.

I know you are taking it easy on this build - bit not TOO easy please! 

Greg

Wow! There are times when the "Like" button is just not enough. This is a superb model and I am in awe of the skill and patience that goes into it. Thank you for sharing.

Greg

I reckon the scale is 1:83.2 - yes, that's pretty weird!

And I have no idea how to make a .75mm block, but I am very impressed that you are even contemplating trying! I watch with interest.

And I love your model and the amount of detail you have squeezed in there. Looking forward to the next post.

Greg

Those interested in O'Brian's inspiration for Aubrey's exploits could do worse than read "Memoirs of a Fighting Captain" by Admiral Lord Cochrane, or indeed any of the several books available on Cochrane's life and career. Personally, I find Cochrane's own words most convincing, although he does include a lot of his own (strong) opinions on the government of the day - not unlike Jack Aubrey perhaps?

Greg

From your description and the photo I would say you have a piece of utile, an African hardwood. It was in fairly common use for furniture, joinery (such as your window frame) and boatbuilding, but is now becoming less common.

Greg

Hi Walter, enjoying your build of a very pretty boat Regarding silver soldering, there is plenty of advice on line, including many Youtube clips showing how to do it - search "silver soldering". However, I wouldn't think it's a good way of simulating chrome. It would be tricky to get a really even coat over a large area, and the final colour isn't necessarily silver! To be honest, a good silver paint is likely to be a better route, and much easier to apply (and remove, if you find you don't like it). If you are really set on a chrome-like finish, do a search on electro-plating.

I am intrigued by your masts. I have never seen masts like that on any boat, of that era or more recent. Most masts at that time were hollow wooden constructions but mostly or completely untapered, and much smaller section than are yours, especially at deck level. Do you have any pictures you are working from, or are you relying on memory? I am not saying it is wrong - just very unusual.

Thanks for the build log, and I look forward to the next episode.

Greg

Edit: here's a picture of a ketch with the sort of masts I am more familiar with.

http://www.sandemanyachtcompany.co.uk/uploads/512/Gudgeonnewmain.jpg

Congratulations on this marvellous build. Stunning! I enjoyed following it on MSW 1 and your re-posting has been like meeting an old friend again. I am looking forward to catching up with the most recent episodes. Thank you for sharing this and taking the time to give us all the full build.

Greg

 

 

The lines that are in the jam cleats (is that the proper term?  I have been calling them line brakes)  

 

I believe the correct term is clutch (at least in the UK) - google "rope clutch" and you'll get the picture.

Greg

Hi Matt, I have to tell you I'm really looking forward to the bit where you add the ratlines. Are you planning to do clove hitches at each junction, or will you take the easy route and just glue them?

But seriously - great work and a lesson to us all on what can be achieved with a little material and a great deal of skill and inspiration. Thanks for sharing.

Greg

Amazing! Thank you for re-posting this superb build and allowing us to enjoy your progress all over again.

Can you remind us what finish you are using on the wood? Thanks.

Greg