Rudolf

Making floor boards from Caribbean Mahogany. Ninty 8” floor boards from 5 blanks .
IMG_2184.MOV

Established in place the channel board, anchor hawse and ladders on the main deck.

Hi Patrick!
Thank you for your attention to my topic. I have made significant progress in work and will soon post new photos.
 
Ron

Glued the inner sheathing of the lower deck and deck boards.

Put the stern-post  and rough sheathing of the transom.

Hatches and grating.

Anchor bitt and knees in the bow of the lower deck.

Lower deck assembly.

I will continue.
Set capstan, pumps, gun carriage, beams and beam bracket supporting them.
At this stage, the main task is to verify the collectability of the model body and the correctness of the solutions in principle.
Therefore, I do not plan to finish small parts on the lower deck now, I will not paint the internal volumes of the hull, etc.

I glued the rough sheathing of the upper deck and the bow deck.
 

Overhanging counter will have to be redone. assembly is not as fast as we would like.
 

Set the stern bulkhead and glued the two upper decks aft.

Set the second side, glued everything to the main deck.
Deck sheathing and waterways on a poop deck.

I glue the deck and deck sheathing on the quarterdeck.

Until I glued the partitions, you can see "what's inside." View of the stern.

Current look with mast and bowsprit dry fitted (I need bigger shadeless tent :)).


From original kit only anchors are left to do. Then I can start to rig this vessel.
I've covered model with acrylic varnish. Two layers of glossy, and one of matt coat. Unfortunetly it came a bit too thick. I've used AK Interactive Spray.

You're welcome Edward,
 
here's a (last) few pics to bring us back in real time, so updates will be less frequent.
 
The area under the stern is delicate : lateral planking (wales,...) and bottom planking : it comes all together.
Off course : "Fluffy" couldn't care less😃

Yet another update :
1) continuation "filler method" : the advantage of this approach : no drilling for the gunports
2) and measuring
3) next update : the stern arera, which is (always) delicate

Hello G.L.
 
You're more than welcome. Don't hesitate for input or feedback.
Made some additional measurements, gunports required some minor extra filing & adjustments. According to plans position of the gunports coincides now with channels and the 3 masts, at least at the portside .
While I'm at it, why not post the continuation of the filling-up proces ?
I guess the pics speak for themselves, to connect the blocks, I had to pivot the sawtable 

and here's the bow section.
As we all know, a straight wooden strip tends to lift upwards while applying on a spheric shape. If you force the strip in a unnatural horizontal position, a gap becomes unavoidable once you want to fix an adjecent strip. Thus I obtained a solid base for the final planking in the future. I agree, the second planking will require decent soaking/bending, but a have a solid base to work with
That's all for the moment folks.
Back to the workbench, see you next WE

Previous post : the  only reason why the ends of the bulkheads were connected was for strength purposes.
Made some reinforcements
Another thing that confused me while studying the plans . I was not sure if the width on the drawings included two layers of planking, assuming I would apply a double planking above the bulkheads.
Aside from this, I felt uncomfortable with the use of filler blocks especially in the bow and rudder sections. I felt insecure if I were to achieve identical shapes on both port and starboard sides.
 
For this reasons, I decided to try out a different approach, a step by step filling method.
The bulkheads, the closest to bow and stern were to be filled up with soaked and bended double planking 1,5 x 5 mm ( lime or birchwood, I guess). So in total 3 mm to make sure I had enough material while sanding and realising the curves in the delicate area ( stern & bowsection)
The central bulkheads were filled with blocks that had to fit inbetween. (thickness 4 mm and height 9 mm).
The latter were cut out from 2,4 meter strips , 18 mm width and 4 mm thickness). Again, all this would not have been possible without an electric saw machine. You can find these strips in every DIY-store, at least here in Belgium
 
Was this time-consuming ? It definitely was, but I'm satisfied with the result.
French modelling expert B. Frölich's book was a true source of inspiration