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kondzik

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  1. Funny how similar it is to polish "Papier Japoński" (eng. japanese paper) which I use for sails making .
  2. Yup, isopropyl alcohol. Beer should only be used to steady your hand :D.
  3. Thanks guys. When it comes to soaking and reinforcing card parts I've recently found out about substance called Paraloid B72 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraloid_B-72). In pure form it is sold as transparent, hard crystals (should be available in stores for artists). It dissolves in acetone, ethanol, toluene and xylenes and solutions up to 15% are used in conservation of old prints or rotten wood. I'm definitely not going to use toluene and xylenes but when I get my hands on it I'm going to try and test solutions in acetone and ethanol. I've also read that dissolved in
  4. Not really much progress with build, I've only managed to finish bowsprit details. Black parts are made from styrene strips. I've also started work on anchors - styrene again. Not much card in this update.
  5. No, I did not reinforce bolt rope with wire and in hindsight I should have. Right now, after a year since completion sails and bolt ropes soaked a bit of moisture from air and deformed a bit. I've used cotton thread, around 0,5mm in diameter, straight from the spool and did not wax it with bees wax to let pva glue grab easier to it, but it made it more prone to moisture unfortunately. I'm definitely going to try to use some wire in my current Saettia build but I haven't figured out yet if should embed it into sail or make my own bolt rope with wire core. Check out how Bruma made his sails in t
  6. Small progress update. I've made false frames and cap rails. Fitting on bow proved to be tricky and I've damaged the part. I've fitted some roof tiles on stern. And finally bumper strips.
  7. I've managed to finish the planking. I've used last two planks on each side to correct any accumulated errors. It worked out quite well on bow and stern but in the middle there are small gaps left. Fortunately they will be covered with bumper strips (or maybe I should call it wales). Almost all planks where a bit longer than needed (around 0,5 - 1mm) which is nice and allows for some leeway. Only one on left side initially was shorter by about 0,5mm (first light brown counting from bottom and it was last one glued) but after some more sanding of previous layers I've managed to get it right. I
  8. Your sails are wonderful. I've also used modelspan before but never tried to embed thin wire into them so they lost a bit of shape after some time. I'm definitely going to try it in my current build.
  9. Quite some time has passed since last update, time to dust off this build log, end period of winter laziness and show some progress. Final layer of planking is progressing nicely, I'm around 2/3rd into it.
  10. On my Cog from second point I used some putty used in carpentery and it was water based, but I've never put layer more than 1mm thick so it can dry fast. I've heard that some people use fillers used in car bodywork but I've never tried one. When you have very small gaps and use thin layers water in fillers should not be a problem, at least it never was in my builds. On HMS Rodney example he used some acrylic filler so I presume water based.
  11. Here you can see first technique with construction foam, frame was reinforced with aluminum rods as this modeller had problems with bending in his previous builds: https://www.koga.net.pl/forum/524/46474.html?p=74982#p74982 He then used filler, sanded it and painted the bottom. But you don't have to paint and you can plank it in more traditional way like here: https://www.koga.net.pl/forum/524/47280.html?p=85676#p85676
  12. I've just found your build. It is too late for this build but maybe for your future endeavours you will find this helpful. When it comes to filling spaces between hull frames I've never used water based fillers for whole volume. The trick is to fill it with something else and then use some small amounts of filler to fill gaps and unevenness. There are a couple of techniques used on polish modellers forums. 1. Foam used in construction for setting up window frames. When it hardens it grows and fill the gaps between frames. After it hardens enough you remove excess first
  13. I always try to reinforce in some way parts which are sticking out and I feel like glue might not be enough. Sometimes it might not possible so I have to be careful. Funny thing is that with my previous build - Allege d'Arles I've managed to break away rudder four times. Now I'm thinking how to prevent it in current build, perhaps some cut to proper length and carefully hidden/embedded paper pins will do the job.
  14. Progress update. This post is a bit picture heavy, I hope you don't mind. Second layer of skin, or if you want, first planking is done. Below pictures showing couple of stages: Next were bulwarks I've reinforced stem with steel rod 1mm in diameter, since I wasn't able to drill proper hole in the hull it only prevents bowsprit from bending during maneuvering with model. Currently it looks like this
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