Neill

Thank you Jason and Glenn, and for the 'likes'
 
Post Forty-one
 
The moment of truth
A coat of w-o-p is applied to see if the result is now good enough to leave the lower hull unpainted.
On balance I think that it just about makes the grade.
 
A further two coats are applied; the keel and stem areas are brushed with w-o-p and immediately wiped off with a clean rag as I move along.

1337(2)
I do like the look of the knee of the head with its engraved constituent parts, the lines pop out once the w-o-p is applied.

1319
As a bonus, I avoid the troublesome task of marking the waterline, and I wasn’t really keen on that vast expanse of white paint anyway, at least not in relation to the Navy Board style of display I am seeking to achieve.

1317(2)

1330(2)

1323(2)

1315(2)

1333(2)

1331(2)

1347(2)

1329(2)
I can't be sure that I won't indulge in a little further fiddling with it before the point of no return,  but  for now, I'll move onto the Wales.
 
B.E.
26/11/21
 

Another little update.
 
Since the beginning of 28th September until last week, we had builders here to convert our garage into a proper unit, split into two rooms, one room for the laser cutting and raw materials, and another for packing (and gym...). They did quote 2 weeks, but it was over 5 weeks. We have a new roof, floor levelled and walls skinned in OSB boards, including the partition.
 
All new shelving arrived yesterday, so this week we are fitting the rooms out. Next Monday my new laser machine arrives, so I will be able to develop much larger kits (Sphinx is the largest I could go with my current machine, unless I split the keel, and I prefer not to do that if at all possible)
 
I now have all Vanguard Models kits in stock, after a nightmare couple of months chasing suppliers up with my orders (notably, photo etched brass). As I have mentioned, because of the headaches this has caused me lately, my next three kits are having the photo etched sheets produced locally here in the UK. They cost more, but then again, all photo etch  suppliers are increasing prices anyway, due to shortages of raw materials.
 
Right now, I am laser cutting the Nisha and Erycina production parts. Today I received the 3-d printed castings for the kits, as well as sample sail sets for each. The production versions are being made now, so will hopefully be ready in time for the kit releases.
 
I have read all the build logs, most notably the Sphinx logs. When designing/developing Sphinx, my design philosophy for this kit (aside from wanting to develop kits that I would want to buy) was to make the build as painless as possible for builders who were used to kits like Fly, Vanguard, Duchess etc.. So intermediate modellers.
 
I wanted to include cut parts that are never really included in older kits, where these parts are either left off altogether, or the modeller needs to make them from strips of wood or blocks of wood. All they then need is final finishing and, in some cases, like the quarter gallery, all three edges require shaping. But for the most part, if the parts are not painted, the top and bottom edges need slight filing/sanding to remove the char, which, being laser cut, I can do nothing about. Sphinx will still take a while to build, but a lot of that time should be cleaning up pre cut parts, and not making them from scratch.
 
In summary,  wooden model kits are not designed to fall together when you shake the box (as many allude to Tamiya), but each part still needs to be worked on and test fitted multiple times, and maybe adjusted, before fitting. Sphinx takes 8 hours to produce each kit.
 
I have said before, if I designed each kit like most other mainstream manufacturers, I could honestly produce a dozen or so new kits per year, as there's really nothing to them. But where is the fun/challenge in that?
 
When we get time, we will add a section on my website, grading each kit according to the experience required to build each kit.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris

Post Twenty-six
 
Sand fill and sand again.
There are the usual (for me) strake ridges to attend to, I didn’t pay much attention to variations in plank thickness during planking, and there was a fair variation across the plank supply. Several of the planks were below 0.7mm and effectively unusable, being too soft to span the bulkheads without flexing.
Only minimum filling was required in small areas. For this I use Deluxe Wonderfill a lightweight filler that dries quickly and sands well.
It works well for small indentations and hollows in planking runs.

0742(2)
I take photos under harsh lighting to reveal irregularities, along with the blind feel test.
 
At the point I think ‘That’ll do’ I take more photos and faff around some more.

0753
With the model on my desk I can compare with macro photos where areas need a little more attention.
 
After a day of sanding, filling, and feeling, I reach the point of enough is enough and move onto the Pearwood keel, stem, and sternpost.
 
The fit of the stern post to keel was excellent, but the stem to keel at the bow needed some fettlin’ to get a nice tight fit between keel and stem.
 
This is important if the option to not paint the lower hull is to be retained.
I didn’t need to mess with the stem piece, just clean the false keel up.
 
Keeping the stem piece hard down against the keel piece proved quite tricky using pva.

0760(2)
This is the only clamp that had sufficient bite to secure it in position until the glue grabbed.
Might have proved easier to use cyano for this joint.

0770

0772
At the stern area I have reduced the planks to a feather edge where they meet the stern post, not difficult with a soft wood like Lime.

0779

0777
The white filler generally indicates where the planking strip was undersize in thickness.

0780(2)

0800

0789(2)

0786

0791(2)

0790(2)
After eight weeks work, I have the basic hull completed, and something that is recognisable as a bijou Frigate.
 
Moving on…
 
B.E. 20/10/21
 
 

Post Twenty-five
Planking, planking, and more planking.
 
After a further eight days the first planking is completed, and a first rough sanding applied.

0687(2)

0680(2)

0672(2)
The keel, stem, and stern posts temporarily in place.

0671

0684(2)

0674(2)

0710
Pleased to see that the hull formation sits quite well on the stand.

0713
The sanding will now continue until I achieve satisfaction, or my patience runs out.
 
B.E.
18/10/21

Post twenty
 
That fairing business
Looking at the hull, the topsides have a subtle and rather elegant concave shape to the bulkheads and gunport frames.
On my model the gunport frames stand a little proud of the bulkheads, and I am concerned not to alter the shape of them.

0437
My first task is to sand the vertical gunport frames in the vertical plane, flush with the bulkheads.

0440
I then sand the longitudinal frames.
At this point you will see that all but one of the aft bracing jigs has broken off.

0445
Finger Sanders are used for this job.

0442
I then move onto sanding the whole side down to the point where the char is removed from the bulkhead edges.
For this I use the coarse side of a soft sanding block, moving along and downwards.

0447
I am now starting to use a test plank to check along the topsides. I check at different points down to the Upper deck level
What I am looking for is any indication of lumps or depressions as the plank passes across the bulkheads.
 
Moving on, below the lower deck, fairing the bulkheads continues.
Bulkheads 5- 7 only need the char removing, from 8 aft the chamfer increases as with from 5b forward to the bow.

0456

0458

0461
Again, a test plank is constantly used to check that full contact is made across all bulkheads.

0468(2)
 

0470(2)
I’ll faff around with this for a while yet, or at least until my patience wears out, but time spent on this not particularly enjoyable phase of a build does pay dividends later on.
 
B.E.
29/09/21
 

Post Nineteen
Fitting out the Foc’sle
A modest modification but one that cleans up the area around the bow.

0411
A paper pattern from the plan is used to mark out the area.

0420
Fairly straightforward, spare Pearwood from the bulwark and spirketting frets cut to fit.

0421
Frame 1-1 (with the notched extensions to take the carlings for the Fore deck) may yet be shaped to represent a  knee below deck level.

0426
I am pleased to note that Chris has taken into account the difference in size of the Bridle port, something I failed to modify on my Pegasus build, and it still niggles.
 
For the present that’s all that’s required for this modification.
 
Before I add any paint to the model or add the upper deck planking it makes sense to me to get the outboard fairing done, so this will be the next task.
 
Oh what joy.
 
B.E. 24/09/21
 

 

Post Seventeen
Bulwarks and Margin planks.
 
For the Margin planks I am using 4.5mm wide Boxwood strip.
Nothing too severe in edge bending requirements, and I use the etched deck as a template to form the curve.

0355(2)
Using the water/heat edge bending treatment, there is no need to pre-cut the margin.
 
The Spirketting is handed Port and Starboard, fore and rear; it is nicely etched with Top and Butt planking, and I added a slight bevel to the top where it meets the quickwork planking above.
 
Strictly speaking a waterway should be fitted before the  spirketting into which the scuppers are fitted.
Unless the spirketting is reduced in width to allow the fitment of a waterway,(not a good idea) the waterway would need to fit on the deck in front of it, which would cover some of the Top and Butt planking, altho’ only to the extent of around 1mm.
 
Without this fitting the scupper holes drilled in the margin plank make no sense and are probably best not drawn attention to.
On a practical level very little of this will be seen on a model fully built to the kit specification so not really an issue.
 
The deck clamps are fitted above the quickworks, again laser cut parts.
A bit of a puzzlement here, the blurb indicates that the top edge should be slightly higher than the adjacent bulwark.
There are a series of pre-drilled holes in both the spirketting and deck clamp pieces above the gunports, which would suggest are to be aligned. These are described as being for gunport tackle eyebolts, presumably for muzzle lashing when the guns are run-in and stowed.
However, if they are aligned the deck clamp pieces encroach on the top of the gunports.

0356(2)

0359(2)
Plan 11 does show the forward deck clamp strip positioned between 0.6mm and <1mm above the ports, the aft sectioned following the top line of the ports.

0364
Along the bottom of the deck clamp strips are a series of notches. These are for the support brackets for the Gangboards. (many steps ahead) They need to be carefully positioned to neither encroach on gunport or tackle eyebolt slots either side.

0366
The aft deck clamp strips are less complicated only need to ensure that the gallery doorway slot is nicely positioned. A slight trimming of the forward end to meet the fore part is required to fit.
 
I fitted the deck clamp strips without concern for aligning the drilled holes, my main objective to avoid fouling either the gunports or side tackle drill holes.

0370
Internal planking of the bulwarks now completed.

0382
The fairly easy run of the Margin planks can be seen in this shot.

0371
The ‘false’ scarph joint is marked with a scalpel and lined with a pencil.

0376
Before I progress further I will think about adding the waterway because my eye expects to see it and I doubt very much will be seen of the fine top and butt beneath even a light coat of paint.
 
B.E.
22/09/21
 
 
 

Post Ten
Starting the stern modification
The first job is to establish where the Rudder head cover will sit.

04410
To this end it is necessary to temporarily fit the stern post and rudder.

04107
A piece of 12mm Walnut square stock is shaped into an octagon.

04111
The piece is then hollowed out to fit over the Rudder head.

04115
By design or accident, the scale cover fits between the central kit stern frames.

04113
This is purely to assess the position.

04118
The cover will not sit this low in the framing.

04116
This will enable me to work out the height and line of the bench which butts to the cover.

04121
Here the shaping of the inner four frames has begun.

04124
Not sure at present whether the two outer frames will require shaping, I am conscious that the aft internal bulwarks are cut to fit above them.

04122
I am taking things slowly as I’m basically making it up as I go along, having no plans to work to. I need to keep looking ahead to see how the mods impact on stages further along the build.
 
That’s enough headache for one day.
 
B.E.
11/09/21
 
 
 

Post Nine
 
Mulling over a Stern modification.
 
With the deck beams now completed I need to consider the first major departure from the kit.

0244(2)
Those longitudinal deck beams slotted into place perfectly, beautifully accurate laser cutting.
 
The stern frames have a direct relationship to the internal fittings of the Great Cabin.

0242(2)
With the kit arrangement the inboard horizontal extensions form what will be the seat pattern extending from the stern lights. (instr114)
I suspect this is a simplification, but one which under normal circumstances would not be of great concern.
However, as I intend to have very little of the Quarter deck planking in place, this simplification becomes an issue.
The bench seat should be narrower, a little lower, and, in the centre, should be the Rudder head cover.

This shot from Chuck’s wonderful Winchelsea build shows a typical arrangement altho’ with Sphinx the head is octagonal and of smaller proportions.

0240(2)
This means that a quite drastic re-shaping of the stern frames is required, removing the sections that form the bench top and front.
It would then look as it would on a plank on frame set-up.

This photo of Chuck’s Winchelsea build demonstrates the change required.
 
There are drawings of the Rudder cover and bench arrangements in the Pandora book, one internal profile at 1:64 scale, and a plan at 1:128 scale.
I will use these as a guide for my modification.
 
The octagonal Rudder Head cover, which scales to a diameter of 30” (12mm) and a height of 35.3” (14mm) sits between the central stern frames and butts against the back edge of the kit upper deck.
 
The bench seat scales to a depth of 15” (6mm) and a height of 20” (8mm)
 
Stage one will be to modify the stern frames, stage two, extend the deck, stage three, create the Rudder head cover, and stage four, form the bench.
 
I also intend to open up the doorways to the Quarter galleries.
I did something similar with the Quarter Badges on Pegasus. With light being able to penetrate thro’ the gallery and stern lights, the appearance is far more natural in my opinion, and gives a view of the Great Cabin with its chequer sailcloth covering, and Rudder head trunk.
 
In the case of Sphinx the cabin area will also be open thro’ the deck beams of the Quarter deck.
 
It is likely to be some time before I actually get the Upper deck in place, and then it will have to be manually planked to match the part planking of the Foc’sle and Quarterdecks.
 
I will record my progress with this modification in the posts to follow.
 
B.E.
10/09/21


 

Flags can be made by the builder (Chuck describes how in his Cheerful monograph) no need for Chris to do that. Stands are builder's custom decisions and vary by builder, no need for Chris to do more than he is. Chuck is not providing a stand for Winchelsea, the crown jewel of his line at best he may provide some instruction on how to build one. There is no need for the kit price to be increased for things that we can do for ourselves in the manner we choose, and as Chris says whatever he might do would be questioned anyway - as it has been here.  I'm glad for instance Chris doesn't increase the price by including copper plating I'd never use. The same sheets can be purchased from Amati for those that want a copper bottom.
 
Chris is a start-up. I doubt the ROI on flags or stands is worth the effort he'd put in for limited buyers. His money is in models. He's already providing a diverse range from rowboats to frigates, that's enough. New product development has to be the singular focus of a two person start-up.
 
 
 

I think what I shall do is continue doing what I do. I know I will never please everyone (and the loudest critics are usually the ones who would never buy your product anyway), but I like to think I know enough as to what  most would like to see in a kit, I just think of what I would like to see in a kit that I paid my own hard earned on.
 
I will source flags at some point, but right now, I want to concentrate on new kits, this is where my investment money is going.
 
 

Glad you like the coaster!
 
I only do these if I have enough time and after everything else is cut. Each sheet does 24 coasters, and is four and a half hours engraving/cutting time per 600x400mm sheet, as the etched hull drawing has a lot of lines and curves.
 
If I get time, I shall do some in the clear acetate.

I second this comment. The coaster, as with the previous Vanguard kits received in a very nice touch and greatly appreciated.

The stand is actually quite nice but it's difficult to capture with it being clear. I do think it's far nicer than general fare you get in kits these days....if indeed you get anything. 

OK, Sphinx Revision 2 manual all done, and will be sent off to printers, along with new box label.
 
The revised manual can be found using the download link at the bottom of the page here:
 
HMS Sphinx – 1775 – VANGUARD MODELS
 
Have attached the new box label, perhaps I will now stop getting enquiries asking if the kit has masts and rig.

After around 5 1/2 months, HMS Sphinx is now finally complete and the updated box label and manual are with the printers for the next production run. 
 
This last stage has of course been the rig, but I've added a few photos too which show the stand etc. There's not too much to say at this point. You will notice that all the blocks are the optional pear set and not the standard kit parts. Here's a fe sequence shots showing yards fitted, and stays etc.
 







 
 
And finally, here are the completed images. 
 
Hope you like her!
 

 
 
 

All the kits I had have already gone. The second batch is being done now. I will have the manuals in for reprint next week. All I had to do was to change the part numbers in the text relating the the first and second planking in the manual, just two minor changes. It really was no big deal, coupled with the fact that you only have two types of planking in the kit, the lime first planking and the pear second planking. It isn't like there's a myriad of different size planks.

Cheers!
 
I wasn't going to start this one yet, but I had the lines scanned into my PC, and couldn't help myself. I just like to nail the hull designs, as that is well over half the battle for commercial kits, even more so for commercial kits with absolute beginners in mind.
 
Love the name of this one, 'Saucy Jack'! Because it's a much earlier vessel compared to the other fishing boats, the hull shape is more like earlier small craft, almost like a cutter with no guns.
 
For larger kits, don't worry, I certainly haven't forgotten those..

Post Six
 
Stern and bow patterns.
 
I wasn’t too keen on working the bow and stern patterns off-model, particularly the stern.
As it happens, for the bow pattern the off-model option was removed; unlike the bow pattern bulkhead which wouldn’t shift after fitting the patterns.
It slid on ok and I was careful not to allow glue onto the keel, but move it would not and I had the nightmare vision of snapping the false keel which at only 3mm wide and quite long is very vulnerable at this stage.
 
So, on-model fairing it will be.
 
For preliminary fairing of the stern pattern I am using 10mm and 20mm Finger sanders, initially with coarse grade paper.
It is worth slipping a couple of lengths of waste strip from the keel fret between the stern patterns to support them during sanding, particularly parts 24.
One of mine fell off during sanding, probably due to insufficient glue used to avoid sticking it to the keel.

3816(2)
So, this is as far as I felt comfortable with off-model fairing.

3825(2)

3819(2)

3826(2)
All Bulkheads glued into place now.

3812
Only been four days and look at the state of my working area, think I need a general tidy up.
 
B.E.
28/08/21

It took three tries to figure out a technique to carve a waterway without having access to a miniature table saw, but I am happy with the result. I also started forming a test margin plank.  Nothing is glued yet. Will want to test fit some more to make sure I am happy with it. 
 

 

 

 

 
 

Post Five
Aft platform modification
This involves cutting away a section of the false keel between bulkheads 9 and 10.

3805
I have restricted this to the area covered by the ladderway only, the hatchway is grated and covered by the Upper deck capstan.
I used a section of unused maple decking from my Zulu build for the platform, sufficient for the purpose.

3802
Checking the level.

3808(2)
The aft ladderway down to the platform from the Lower deck is almost directly below the Aft Ladderway on the Upper deck, so  that ladder will probably obscure most of the view down to the Aft Platform, but I'll know it's there.😀
 
Time to get back to the main event.
 
B.E.
27/08/21
 

Post Four
Creating a Ladderway
 
This post involves modifying things to create a Fore hatch ladderway on the Lower deck down to the Fore Platform.
This is not for the faint hearted as it involves cutting Bulkhead 4 in half and trimming the false keel.

3716
The bulkhead is halved, and the centre section is removed.

3718
The short keel piece sticking up in the centre will also be removed.

3719
A test check of the Ladderway with the lower deck in place.

3723
Bulkhead 5 is glued into place along with the Fore Platform.

3722
The lower deck is temporarily refitted to hold the bulkhead in place until the glue sets.

3753
Bulkhead 4 halves are glued into place against the False keel and forward connections of the Platform.

3747
Bracing blocks are glued to the lower part of the bulkhead and the keel.

3725
The Lower deck was again put back to square the bulkheads.

3755
The completed area opened up.

3735

3752
A ladder can now be installed once the hatchway coamings are fitted.
 
Onto the stern Ladderway and Aft Platform, which is a less  dramatic modification.
 
B.E.
26/08/21
 

I'm about a week or so off completing Sphinx, so thought I would post a few progress pics here showing shrouds and shroud cleats in place.
 
I really, really love ratlines. Did I ever tell you that? All 1270 of the lovely little knots.
 

Post Two
 
Bulkheads
 
Fitting the bulkheads is a painless exercise, the one that gave me some concern is the lower stern pattern. (13-1)

3626
Fairing off the model is indicated but in this area it is all about degrees and I worry about how much to do off the model.
This is where the lower planking will sweep up to the transom and it needs to be a smooth convex curve without any hint of an angle.

032
This photo of my Pegasus build shows the run of planking and ultimately the fairing can only be done on the model using test planks.
 
For this reason, I will be very careful how much off model sanding I do in this area, and I don’t think I can trust myself with the Dremel.
I found that part 13 needed a little light sanding in the slot and several dry fits before it would slide smoothly down the keel to be glued to 13-1.

3679
These things are fragile and cannot be forced into position without the risk of damage.

3677(2)
The bow patterns are easier to fit, and will be easier to fair.

3678
With all the bulkheads in place I get my first real impression of the hull size and shape.
She is chunkier than Pegasus and is pleasing to my eye.
 
The Bow and Stern bulkheads will now be removed for preliminary fairing, at this point the remainder of the bulkheads  are only dry fitted but will probably not require removal again.
 
B.E.
25/08/21
 
 
 

Building the Sphinx - Post One
This is where the build starts in earnest, I always start a build with a keel support, partly to hold the hull in the early stages and partly to keep the false keel straight.
It also provides a level surface to check square.

3625

3624

3623
This will be modified several times during the course of the build.
 
I don’t intend to do a step-by-step assembly log, there is the excellent manual for that.
I do have to mention what a wonderful job Chris and James have done in producing the manual, probably the best I’ve ever seen.
 
My initial view of what I have seen in the box is very positive, I have not concerned myself with checking every part against the parts list as I know Chris will respond to any issues that may crop up.
 
I will restrict this log to commenting on areas where I have had difficulty or found problems (hopefully very few), areas where I have made modifications, and the approach I have taken in tackling different stages of the build where it diverts from the indicated path.
 
Time to introduce bulkheads to false keel.
 
B.E.
 
24/08/21