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Blue Ensign

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    The Green Shires of England
  • Interests
    Eighteenth Century Naval History, ship modelling, wandering the Lakeland Fells, cocker spaniels, Golf, and too keen an interest in red wine.

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  1. The 'B' reference indicates different types of blocks. Have a look on page 107, you will see different types of blocks annotated H7/1, H7/2 etc; These references relate to different types of block as identified on p 106. Look at Block H7/6 there is a small notation 'B9' which is described as Common single and double blocks A very convoluted way of doing things in my opinion. 'C' - cleats 'D' = Deadeyes B.E.
  2. A fine looking model Erik, you must be feeling well satisfied, and she looks very elegant in her display location. Well done B.E.
  3. Nice progress Tim, great looking gammoning, and wooldings, and nicely shaped False rails. 👍 B.E.
  4. Post Twenty Completing the First section This involves cleaning up the hull, fixing blemishes, and re-coating the topsides. The moulding rail has been extended onto the Bow stem, and paint added. A Further coat of wipe-on-poly was applied to the unpainted areas. I will leave the painting of the capping rails until I have fixed the internal panels. Progress photos to complete this stage. 0114(2) 0115(2) 0116(2) 0118(2) 0124(2) 0127(2) 0153(2) Moving onto th
  5. You're making excellent progress Jean-Paul, Gunport linings look good, and very clean work overall. 👍 B.E.
  6. Post Nineteen Lower Moulding Rails The stern Frieze patterns that run from the Flying Transom to the break of the stern sheets govern the position of the lower rail which sits just below the carved decoration. 1588 I used separate colours on the plan to better identify the individual carving pieces. Between the upper rail and the lower rail top there is a space of 4mm running from the bow to around Frame O where it starts to widen by degrees. I used a 4mm wide Pearwood plank to mark the level of the lower moulding to this point, and appl
  7. Post Eighteen Ears and Cap rail mouldings. These are provided in the form of pre-shaped Boxwood pieces for the ears and Boxwood strip for the mouldings. These items require a shaped profile to be scribed into the face. I start with the ears; the profile must be simple given that the edged surface is a mere 1.2mm wide. The means is a single edged razor blade, and the way is to cut the profile shape using the edge of a mini file. This is a method I have used on all my models requiring a fancy edge to rails. 1550 Several passes
  8. Thank you Michael and Bob, @ Michael - Yes those are the untrimmed filaments, works quite well in this situation with a delicate hull and not much to drive into. Easily trimmed with a scalpel blade, and to sand flush. @ Bob - sounds good to me Bob, and your trip sounds wonderful, have a great time, and stay safe. 👍 B.E.
  9. Post Seventeen Adding the nails Following on from my last post I have applied wipe-on to the decking and the framing below the hull planking, and a further coat to the keel pieces. I now need to consider the nailing. Having applied some several thousand copper nails to the clinker hull of my Alert build, this seems like light relief. 20lb black Filament is supplied and a#74 drill bit is recommended for the purpose. Some 1650 mm of line is provided which is sufficient for 330 5mm lengths, more than enough to fulfil Chuck’s suggest
  10. Always an exception to prove a rule, we are talking generalities here. B.E.
  11. The one I heard is that you can put a boat on a ship, but not a ship on a boat. B.E.
  12. Boats are very welcome, at least my last several builds haven't been thrown off the site, all much smaller than ships.😃 B.E.
  13. This thread makes me smile when I consider how contemporary models and even more recent iconic models such as Longridge’s Victory are treated. Even the NMM no longer considers most ship models are worthy of displaying and has shipped them off to storage at Chatham. The last time I saw Longridge’s Victory it was in a poor condition, and that too is no longer on display at The Science Museum. Sadly, the broad sway of the public have no interest in ship models, including most of your relatives. How long the models we build last is of little consequence in the overall schem
  14. Post Sixteen First internal fixings While I continue to fettle the frames, at this point I felt it time to install the floorboarding and Platforms. The main floor went in without issue. 1457 The Amati planking clamps proved useful once again. 1490(2) I made up the aft and Fore platforms, pre-formed strips that went together without issue. These are simply edge glued together. Fitting the aft platform involves using Chuck’s simple height gauge to mark the correct level on the frames, which may be subject to some twe
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