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Blue Ensign

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    The Green Shires of England
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    Eighteenth Century Naval History, ship modelling, wandering the Lakeland Fells, cocker spaniels, Golf, and too keen an interest in red wine.

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  1. Post 12 Working out revised deck layout Before I proceed further with fettling the deck planking I need to work out the revised layout for Muirneag specific fittings. The Fore hatch has been planked over, and there is a slight shift in the positions of the coal bunker hatch, and the pump deck plate. 7420(2) The plan is a pretty good fit as an overlay. A major difference relates to the steering box. 7405(2) A replacement was scratched out of spare Pearwood strip. 7425(2) The box is smaller th
  2. She is taking shape Richard, definitely a Fifie. πŸ‘ I think you will end up with a good base for the second planking, pay special attention to the planks where they meet the stem and stern posts and fine them down until they lie flush with the posts. This is easier to do before you finally glue the posts in place, but you can use the posts to check progress. B.E.
  3. Thank you Tim, Yes I sanded it by hand, I used one of those foam sanding blocks (medium grade) which happens to be the width of the deck. It took a bit of time to get it down to less than 1mm thick, and I constantly checked the thickness as I went along. The Fifie deck is thinner but as it was a match to the Boxwood strip I was using I didn't need to use it. B.E.
  4. Thanks Guys, ..and Glenn, I think the scots are prepared to defend anything from anyone πŸ˜‰ I hope so John, but the alternative would be to stand something big over the Fore Hatch which isn't there on Muirneag πŸ™„ Post 11 Getting down to decking I made the decision to sand down the back of the supplied deck to allow for the thickness of the Boxwood planking. 7334(2) The printed deck therefore becomes a second false deck with the advantage of having the printed layout to follow as a guide. The first task is to lay down
  5. They are not the same as the bulkhead ears Richard, they are position specific Pearwood 'timberheads' included with the kit. They are designed to sit atop the printed deck, or your own planked deck. Their positions are marked on the inside of the Pearwood bulwark pattern. As you say a long length of curved plank fitted around the margin is all that is required. As long as it is wide enough to sit the timberheads on, that is sufficient. It wouldn't be an issue to cut a tangent on the margin plank to aid the curve if required. Regards, B.E.
  6. Hi Richard, When I laid the deck of the Fifie I followed more or less the pattern of the pre-printed deck which had a margin plank into which the plank ends are joggled. However, with the Zulu, in reality there is no margin plank as such, just inserts between the timberheads, and the planks are not joggled. It strikes me that the Fifie would have had exactly the same arrangement with infils between the exposed timberheads, the set up is the same on both boats. There is only a narrow margin on the Zulu kit pre-printed deck onto which the timberhead pieces sit. The pl
  7. Thanks John and Dave, πŸ‘ @Dave, mention of sweep ports, gives me the yips, getting them to look good is the bane of my life.πŸ™„ Post 10 Thinking about the deck I naturally tried the provided pre-printed deck, and was pleased to see it fitted perfectly without any need for adjustment. 7331(2) The scaling of the planking looks spot on, the Muirneag’s deck comprises 6” boards which scale to 2.25mm 7316(2) It certainly looks good in place and it caters for all the major required fittings one would expect to find on a Zulu deck.
  8. Post 8 Completing the planking. After a week of fairly concerted effort I am happy that my least liked aspect of assembly, the hull planking, is completed. 7183(2) With nine strakes to go I added two strakes above the Garboard Plank. From this point on it is simply a question of working the planks both upwards from the keel and down from the waterline. The aim is to get the inevitable (in my case) final less regular shaped plank to sit on the underside of the hull curve. 7194(2) One more to go. During these last fe
  9. I'm a fan of stump masts or even hull only, and it's something I've adopted as space has become an issue. I used it on my Cheerful cutter build, and it struck me the first time I saw it that Chris Watton's most recent offering of the Royal yacht would also look good as hull only or stump masts; an approach I would take were I ever to build it. When I built my Heller Victory I also displayed her with Topmasts struck as a space saving option, but still allowed the lower standing rigging to be in place. Love the effect you have achieved with your Victory cross sectio
  10. Thanks for your supportive comments guys. So back from glorious Devonshire, and a fine week of weather. Enjoyed a day out at Charlestown across the border in Cornwall, always good to have a look around old sailing vessels. 4861(2) The shipyard is now back in operation, and planking resumes. B.E.
  11. Beautifully clean work, she's going to be a fine model. Great effect achieved on the hatch flooring.πŸ‘ B.E.
  12. I agree Derek, my Silver solder kit is one of my most useful tools when it comes to the 'ironwork' The paste comes in different melting points which is useful when it comes to joining more than one item to one piece.. Envious of your Whitby trip, we should have been around there in July, but covid got in the way. B.E.
  13. Looks about right to my eye Tim, it's hard to believe how small these fittings are, and they look so much better at normal viewing distance. Even so the detail of the line, the frapping, the hooks, can all be seen, and in my view it's worth making the effort. πŸ™‚ B.E.
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