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chris watton

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About chris watton

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  • Website URL
    www.vanguardmodels.co.uk/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Forest of Dean, Gloucester, UK
  • Interests
    Ships and cars.

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  1. Here you can see the ply pattern clamped and glued in place. No pins were used at all in fixing these. They were first clamped in place and then brush glued. Note there are no kinks in the lower edges at all, all fits nicely. The second pic shows were I am up to, checking the very first iteration of the outer bulwark skin and main wale, just clamped loosly in place to check general fit. The final ones will have engraved detail. Next job is to first plank the hull, which I shall start next week.
  2. Yes, most will not be seen, as I have to take into account the depth of the carronade carriages and the various openings down the centre of the deck. When I started this, my main thought was that I want to include a ships stove, and it kind of progressed from there. However, as some build logs of Sphinx and Indy has shown, the modeller can choose how much of the upper deck is planked, and this one will be easier due to the sub deck being much less prominent, and the beams being flush with the upper surface of the ply deck. I always think back to the excellent Tamiya kits I have, where they have details that are almost, sometimes completely covered up once fully built. Harpy also has 17 bulkheads with lots of bracing, so very structurally sound.. Yesterday I clamped and then glued the final iteration of the gun port patterns - as usual for this sort of kit, no gunports or oar ports need to be marked and cut out, these will be already done.
  3. The windlass and stern davit was used for various tasks, one of thich was to help work the anchors with their parent ship, helping lifting the crown so that the anchor could free itself, and the the ships capstan did the work of raising it. The windlass was used to coil the buoy rope.
  4. Perhaps a possible gangway, if they were thinking of finishing the poop 2 beams in!
  5. I have the second in my new line up of alternative printed resin boats almost ready. This is a 24 and 26 foot launch, complete with windlass and davit.
  6. Many innocent sheets of material died to bring you these pictures... This is the fifth hull I have made up, with incremental changes with each new version. I usually just remove and replace the parts I change, but there are many interlocking parts with this one, that I felt more comfortable restarting the whole hull assembly with all updated designs, so that I know all fits as they should. This will not be the final form, however, but am comfortable continuing using the hull form (which is final) to get more information for parts that fit onto it. Hull has been sanded, ready to take gunport bulwark template (which are next to design) (This will be thrown away once all info has been garnered from it...)
  7. We are talking 33 years ago! Le Superb was my 3rd ever wood ship kit (Billings Will Everard being the first, followed by Billings Bounty and then Le Superb). I remember building it just fine using the manual, in an age before the internet. I learned from building the Bounty that using other sources for rigging was a given, and I did that with every kit I built (wasn't many, though, after Le Superb it was Sovereign of the Seas and after that, started in the industry)
  8. I stand 100% at what I commented on, for the time, the manual was very good. I was really talking about the construction aspect, and the well laid out construction stages. Note I commented on the 'Manual' and NOT 'plans'. At that time, the general quality of both the kit and manual were much better than most. For any modeller worth their salt, rigging plans from this era of kits should be treated with utmost caution. At this time (very early 1990's), it was a given (at least to me) to do your own research for the details, and masts and rig especially - this was half the fun of modelling.
  9. 16 x 32-Pounder carronades and 2 x 6-Pounder long guns - typical armament for all the 18-gun brigs of this period (1796-1815). Harpy was built for such – and don’t forget, carronades are much lighter than long guns. ETA - Although the larger Dasher and Bermuda Class of flush decked ship sloops, which had a main deck length of 107 foot, 12 foot longer than Harpy, only had (officially) 16 x 24-Pounder carronades..
  10. Cruiser Class was only 5 feet longer along the main deck, and 2 foot broader - both classes carried the exact same armament, but Harpy definitely had the more elegant lines. In 64th scale, hardly noticeable, size wise, but I am sure the nicer rake of Harpy will be. The old kits I did were really just keel, bulkheads, main deck, and lots of planking. The new kits have many times more pre cut parts, with planking usually relegated to the lower edges of the main wale down (for the small to medium size kits at least)
  11. 700mm! Cripes, Sphinx hull is only just over 600mm long! Harpy was 95 foot along the main deck, so overall hull length is around 526mm (With Speedy being around 440mm) - but with the bowsprit and main boom, I would think well over 800mm
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