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chris watton

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About chris watton

  • Birthday 11/21/1966

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Forest of Dean, Gloucester, UK
  • Interests
    Ships and cars.

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1,966 profile views
  1. Are the plans not included in the kit, you have to download them and they're in PDF format? What about those who just use their phones, or don't possess a PC like machine at all!
  2. Hello,

    I saw the Billy Ruffian was maybe next in queue. What about HMY Fubbs? The model in the NMM has a fully detailed cabin area and the yacht itself was in service for a long time.

    The tumblehome is eye-catching.  Not sure how the painted frieze can be supplied for the fat-fingered like me not to mess up.

    Thanks for listening.

    Restoration ship model fan

    1. chris watton

      chris watton

      Hello,

       

      I will not be doing Bellerophon, but I do plan to do a 64th scale Bellona. Next kit will be the brig sloop Speedy, followed by the 50 gun 2-decker 4th Rate Bristol.

       

      For the painted friezes, I usually design them in very this photo etched brass, as the background can be painted first, and the frieze patterns painted and then applied to the background.

       

      Thank you,

       

      Chris

  3. This was one of the very first books I bought when I started getting into modelling again in the early 1990's, and it is still one of my favourites. Both an absolute pleasure to look at and read. Another book relating the same era that is very good is 'The Restoration Warship', mostly relating to the 70 gun Lenox.
  4. Excellent work, it looks amazing! On a very tenuously related note, I have just watch a YT vid of the Russian 2nd Pacific Fleet 'Voyage of the Damned' I laughed so much at some points, well worth a watch if you have time for comic value alone:
  5. Well done so far, deck detail looks good. One thing I would suggest (based on experience) is to apply masking tape to the bow platform decking, to protect it. This is because by the time you are ready to finally finish that area, the hull will have gone through a lot of abuse with the two lots of planking, gluing and sanding. If fact, it may be worth re-planking the front half round deck after you have completed the first planking. This is because the lighter first planking wood edges will be seen on the finished model, whereas if you re-plank after completing the first planking, the edges will be finished off with the same colour second planking.
  6. This is my Black Pearl I did for the magazine part work companyBP-62.tifBP-62.tif
  7. Holy crap, that is a tad blatant! I know that publishing company who asked us (Amati) to develop this part works paid a hell of a lot of money to secure the rights and original Disney plans for this.
  8. Well, if major car manufacturer's don't go after them... I hardly every look at other kits, and my only window into the model ship world is this site, so do not see these copies too often. I do have a sneaking suspicion that my designs for Black Pearl were copied, though.
  9. As far as I know, there are no copyright laws in China.
  10. Funny, I was thinking about how easy the Chinese must have it earlier when I came across an issue. I was doing some research, and have already spent a few hundred pounds on plans and new books for a specific development. Even with all of this, there was still one area that I couldn't quite work out, so I had to order another plan just to better identify what exactly this part was and what it was for. If I just copied someone else's efforts, all of that research and time and money wouldn't be needed, as it would all be done for me - I can just copy it, and then pass it off as my own, thus cutting the time down to release each new kit by around 90%! I know that some will never understand or do not care about what goes into the development of these kits, but just felt it is worth pointing out anyway, especially when some crow about how much cheaper the Chinese kits are without thinking why they are so cheap.
  11. I always use cyano for stuff like that. However, if all else fails and I am unhappy with the result, I resort to using thin card or thick paper for the rudder straps, painted and cut to the appropriate colour/thickness, and applied using PVA wood glue. This method probably give a much better scale appearance, too (depending on scale, of course - large scale stuff should be fixed using pins anyway). This is why I stopped using copper/brass strip for the blackened iron mast straps, black cartridge paper does a much better job in both ease of application and appearance. the same applies (sometimes) to rudder straps. In my own humble opinion, of course..
  12. Superb model, I can see a lot of love and devotion has gone into every aspect of that build, well done!

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