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chris watton

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About chris watton

  • Rank
    Vanguard Models
  • Birthday 11/21/1966

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  • Location
    Forest of Dean, Gloucester, UK
  • Interests
    Ships and cars.

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  1. Cheers ASAT. I don't know know, though, I love Chuck and CAF's models, they are great, and lot more technical than mine. But I try to design with the novice in mind, and hope they can build something that looks great out of the box without too much 'kit bashing', like we're used to with the older mainstream kits. ETA - Forgot to mention, bulkheads and bow/stern patterns are thicker MDF and keel is 3mm, to be clad either side, like Duchess of Kingston for etched details and rabbets.
  2. Don't know finished dimensions, haven't looked at masts and yards yet, as I have only just started. I know the hull is around 605mm without any spars. Am figuring about 770/780mm overall length, as there's no mizzen gaff boom jutting out from the stern (being 1775) No Jim for this one, am on my own, as Jim has the Amati Victory to do, the two timer!
  3. OK, am now fully up to date with the Duchess of Kingston manual, not much left to do on that. So today I cut the second 'pre-prototype' Sphinx parts, which have quite a few little changes from the first. One of which is making sure the bowsprit sits correctly when added. Still only MDF for most parts. Gun deck is split into halves. I did try bending a complete deck into position on the first prototype, but only managed to damage the bulkhead tabs. Nothing is glued at all at this stage, just checking critical alignments. In fact, I shall recommend that nothing is glued until the 2mm lower/birth
  4. Yep, HMS Sphynx, will be my 7th kit, a real step up in size and complexity. Am laser cutting 2nd lot of 'pre-prototype parts now. I thought the 1mm pear for ladder sides, especially double layered, looked a trifle thick. I ordered a batch of 0.6mm pear sheet (more expensive, but prefer things to look more in scale), and designed and just laser cut a pair of ladders for the orlop and mid deck hatch. All ladders will be designed to suit each hatch opening. I copied the ladder profile from the original plans.
  5. It is ship rigged, armed with 20 x 9-pounders, Fly (Swan Class) had 16 x 6 pounders plus swivels, as built. Am sure many have already worked out the name and class..
  6. I think I will keep stern frames as is, as I would like the modeller have the option of fitting out that area if they so wished. If they are all solid (but completely fool-proof), then it's a lot of work to try and mod that area. Better to meet half way, allow the modders a fighting chance whilst also allowing the general model maker to sand the area for the stern fascia with minimum risk of breaking anything - so the frames are a lot deeper that they should be, scale-wise. Oh yes, also I shall add coamings and gratings for that lower/berth deck But, I must stop this no
  7. Almost 24 inches for the hull. Have to be careful, as the kits are designed for almost anyone to have a go. What I always have to think of is fragile parts, and how will the non expert modellers fare, a thin line between enjoyment of building and utter frustration. But the pics show more or less what I have in mind for my larger kits, will have to see how the stern holds up to some rough treatment, though, as I know some will moan when they break something.. I cut these parts this morning, actually, I cut two whole sets with slightly different designs for the forecastle
  8. As Jim helps me with completing the Duchess of Kingston model, I started designs on my first medium/large development (a littler larger than a Fly type kit), trying different methods in certain areas to allow more gun deck detail to seen when complete. This hull is over 600mm long and incorporates the gun port frames into the hull structure. But, as I said, this is a very early stage of the design, and this is the first time I have put the parts together, so I can get a feel for what needs to be done, and what I can and cannot get away with... All cut in MDF, only the gun deck in p
  9. I am sure the object is not a 'Corvus' or any other kind of boarding bridge, as the vessels depicted are merchant/cargo ships.
  10. (Provisional) Price is £342.50 and £30 for the optional pear blocks (standard blocks being included in the kit) Won't know the exact end cost until I have the plans and manual quotes
  11. No 'Master Shipwright' version with this kit. This is because the materials have been tested twice (two full hulls made and finished) with the supplied materials, and I know these work. I am not sure how the boxwood would bend when wet, plus the cost of a MS version would be too prohibitive, due to the sheer amount of boxwood required. The only option for this kit will be the machined pear blocks and deadeyes. I may be open to special enquiries for people with experience with boxwood, but would be very expensive. (This would be 9 boxwood sheets) Regarding fl
  12. Only once I have the plans and manual in printing. Everything else is done. I weighed the laser cut and photo etched parts pack today, well over 1.3kg. A lot of parts, but that doesn't mean complicated, it just means there are less (or no) parts for the modeller to fashion from scratch from a supplied lump or strip of wood. I think Jim's managed to get this far in just 5 weeks!
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