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chris watton

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About chris watton

  • Birthday 11/21/1966

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  • Location
    Forest of Dean, Gloucester, UK
  • Interests
    Ships and cars.

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  1. Next batch shipping at the end of next week or beginning of week after, after receiving photo etch delivery confirmation. I put in and paid for (a lot of money) a 'Repeat Order' of Sphinx photo etch sets in August. Due to miscommunication within the Italian PE company, what they sent was one of the 5 sets required, making this my month of hell. Problems now resolved, so all back to normal at the end of next week.
  2. There should be two slots for the two (each side) timberheads to locate into. Not a problem though, just cut off the half-engraved areas on the timberheads and glue in place.
  3. I have a feeling the wrong part is glued to the top of the quarter galleries, they look MDF to me, and the parts that should fit are 4mm pear, 481 and 482. They have bevelling lines etched on the tops. It would be much better if you dry fit parts, and check, check and then check again before fixing anything in place. Some parts do need shaping, as this is not a plastic kit. The stern and quarter galleries require much attention to attain a decent result.
  4. Dear Mr. Chris Watton,


    Please excuse the sudden PM.

    My name is Kiyoo Iizawa and I am a member of MSW forum. I am also a member of the one of Japanese Sailing ship Modelers Club.

    In March of this year, I posted on the MSW forum a method I devised for scratch building of structural models, especially for beginner modelers, and received a lot of response from people around the world. I understand that post was referred to you as well. As you can see in my last post recently, my method has been confirmed as successful.

    Several people who have viewed my posts have requested the manual that I provided them for reference.

    The data in the manual I provided includes the design and laser-cut data for the prototype Granado, which can be used by anyone interested in building it.

    For the personal laser cutting of the parts, I ordered the cutting sheets from you through Micro Craft in Japan and was able to get them successfully. The contents are pear wood sheet 0.8 mm to 6.0 mm thick, with a size of 100 x 500 mm.

    The reason I am writing this email is to ask if it is okay to introduce your company in the MSW forum that people around the world can inquiring about the availability of materials from you to obtain the same board material as their design data.

    Even if you do grant me permission, the terms of sale, etc., are up to you, and all I will do is simply refer viewers to introduce about the availability of the materials for build. I don't want this to be a burden or interfere with your business, and this is just an inquiry of doing introductory offer, but I hope to hear good news from you.

    I will also provide you with the above stated manual and design data, if needed, for your verification.

    Best Regards,


    Kiyoo Iizawa

    A member of Yokohama Sailing ship Modelers Club (YSMC) in Yokohama, Japan


    1. chris watton

      chris watton

      Dear Mr Kiyoo Iizawa,


      Thank you for your message. I have seen your work and it is very wonderful!


      Of course you can mention where the materials come from, I do not mind at all. Microcraft, Mr, Konishi, is a very nice customer.


      I now use 0.6 and 0.8mm wood in my own kits. 


      because of how popular HMS Sphinx has been, I used a lot of my stock to make kits, so I am awaiting new stock, but I can sell to individual customers.


      Kindest regards,


      Chris Watton

    2. Kiyoo Iizawa

      Kiyoo Iizawa

      Hello Chris,

      Thank you for your prompt response and permission to make the announcement.

      If you receive any inquiries by my source referral, please respond with your own terms and condition of sale.

      It would be a great pleasure if my data could be used by anyone.

      Thank you again for your help.


      Best Regards,

      Kiyoo Iizawa


  5. Just had my decals arrive for Nisha and Erycina. I know a few asked about the vessel registration numbers from my previous kits, so I contacted Eduard and they produced me these for the new kits. Very small, but hopefully, they will make a difference to the finished models.
  6. Manual is the same, it just has the parts list corrected and extra pics for the masts and yards, which are fully detailed in the plans. One of the reasons for the price increase is the higher cost of the Rev 2 manual, these are not cheap...
  7. Little update: I am expecting the Sphinx photo etched sheets to be delivered next week. These are all I am waiting for, as the rest of the kit contents have already been done and boxed. Sphinx is now available to pre-order. This is the Revision 2 version, with the thicker manual and revised parts list. Right now, all laser production is stopped for two to three weeks (but all kit laser cut sheets have been done and all is in stock), as our large garage is being converted into a proper unit to house two laser machines and a separate area for materials and packing. I take delivery of my larger second laser machine at the end of next month. This larger machine will allow me develop much larger kits and cut thicker materials faster. The garage conversion and new machine are massive investments for me, but I think ultimately worth it. I am hoping to have the small fishing vessels, Nisha and Erycina out before December. These will have optional sail sets. Tomorrow, I take delivery of the waterslide decals for both fishing boat kits, these include the vessel name and registration number. These are what I am working on now.
  8. I am expecting the sample sail sets for both Nisha and Erycina within the next two weeks. Once I have them, I will post over to Jim. Plans will show drawings for both rigged with and without sails. (There are 15 A1 sized plan sheets for Erycina, and am now working on plan sets for Nisha..)
  9. I think what I shall do is continue doing what I do. I know I will never please everyone (and the loudest critics are usually the ones who would never buy your product anyway), but I like to think I know enough as to what most would like to see in a kit, I just think of what I would like to see in a kit that I paid my own hard earned on. I will source flags at some point, but right now, I want to concentrate on new kits, this is where my investment money is going.
  10. My preferred method is to use a 6 or 7" length of 1.5-2" 0.8mm ply with the abrasive paper wrapped around it, and then, in very technical terms, sand the crap out of the hull until the edges are no longer black. Works every time for me!
  11. Nice work, Glenn! Do not worry too much about the pear quarterdeck beam pattern, it is inset slightly, so that char showing is fine. And again, do not worry about breaking a few of the upper tabs, this is almost inevitable - as long as you still have couple left by the time you add the outer skins, that is fine. Even if all of them broken off, you probably still would be fine..
  12. Glad you like the coaster! I only do these if I have enough time and after everything else is cut. Each sheet does 24 coasters, and is four and a half hours engraving/cutting time per 600x400mm sheet, as the etched hull drawing has a lot of lines and curves. If I get time, I shall do some in the clear acetate.
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