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chris watton

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About chris watton

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Forest of Dean, Gloucester, UK
  • Interests
    Ships and cars.

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  1. What would be the best way to unglue some wooden ship model parts ?  Have been working on the HMS Fly and have made some errors.  Used PVA glue.  Thanks for any help.

    1. chris watton

      chris watton

      You could try and dampen the parts to help release the wood glue, but it may be better contacting Amati for some replacement parts. I am sure they would be very helpful. But be aware, for most of July and August they are shut. I do not have any Amati kits here, so cannot help, I do not work for them.

       

      Thank you,

       

      Chris

    2. shortgrass

      shortgrass

      Thanks for your help Chris. 

  2. Very nice work, a true scale model. Regarding the cupola, was it common for these to be copper, or specific to this particular class, do you know?
  3. The pictures of some of the build are on this very thread, the build starts at the orlop..
  4. I remember going to a model boat show years ago, and one guy was asking about the kits on offer and then when I told him the prices, he was shocked and said something along the lines of 'But how does this one cost more, the cheaper one has a bigger box?' This is what we have to deal with occasionally...
  5. I can say quite categorically that the stern on the 64th scale Victory is not too flat, it has the came curvature as per the plans. Regarding price comparisons with other kits of Victory, please bare in mind that there is a hell of a lot more to this 64th scale version, no other kits have full deck detail for all three gun decks - no dummy barrels.
  6. I do have a 64th scale Bellona earmarked for my new range of kits, after buying copies of the original plans. I think Amati should make up 25 full victory kits, for those that will pay, and then think about the 4 parts. May be better if they split it deck by deck.
  7. I have always used Ronseal Mattcoat clear varnish (polyurethane), as this gives a perfect 'eggshell' finish. recently though, I have discovered The Army Painter 'Anti-Shine' matt varnish, which is also excellent. I find it is better to spray the varnish on once most parts are in place.
  8. I did Bellona prototype using Tanganyika
  9. I didn't actually build a lot of the prototype Pegasus model, the in house Amati modeller did, as I was asked to start another project (and the parts didn't really need checking as the major parts were that of Fly). I was slightly narked with this, as I had earmarked Tanganyika for the hull planking as, at that particular time, Amati had an unusually darker shade of walnut strip stock. Walnut looks good for 16th and 17th Century subjects (or for models that are fully painted, like Victory or Vanguard), but too dark for later periods. But this is just my personal preference. As for boxwood, it is simply way too expensive for (relatively) high volume commercial kits.
  10. I hate the look of Pegasus, though, I wanted the second planking in a lighter wood, that model is way too dark. If anyone reads this and is thinking of buying one, use a lighter wood for the second planking, it will look so much better. ETA - I have plans for Atalanta...
  11. Pegasus has a much cooler figurehead!
  12. I have F-360 but haven't really used it yet, Interesting to read that the program is slow when lots of info in on the file you're working with. I get this with my program (TC Platinum 2019). By the time I have all of the designs and drawings for plans on one fine, it is very sluggish and a chore to work with, so then have to separate the drawings to different files. I am wondering if it is the size of the plans you are using? I now bring in my scanned plans in as PDF, making the file a lot smaller and better to work with, having better line definition compared to JPEG.

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