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glbarlow

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    Photography, Modelling

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  1. I’ll take some. 🙂 Thanks for the tutorial. I’ll do a little practicing following your approach. I appreciate your doing this. I’ve printed this to put with my building reference documents 😊
  2. You don’t, they are disposable single use. I trim the tip a little at a time as needed to keep it neat, keep it upright when not in use with a little stand and keep the tip clear (by squeezing it till air comes out at the end my work day). At some point I toss it and reach for a new one. I use 1-3 per build.
  3. On another note, like Chuck you have a very pristine way of seizing blocks - I've seized hundreds of them but my method (actually Bob Hunt's I learned) leaves the ends of threads and ropes hanging there. If I cut them off too close the whole thing unravels (though I do use diluted white glue). Can you share your process or point me to a tutorial?
  4. Do you have an alternate source for either these black plastic or realistic photo etched hooks (for both Speedy and Cheerful, I'm stocking up for these two models)? Thanks for any help. Beautiful work and an excellent reference source.
  5. Perhaps its the brand, I've never had any issue with the CA I use. Sorry you're having that issue, maybe the UK has the allergic kind 🙂
  6. Thanks! A set is on the way. I only drill by hand and have tons of tiny drill bits, I'm always fumbling with the calibers to get the right size. These should be great
  7. The reason I cut just one side to match the hull is because I cut notches in the other side for great clamp points. Between the clamps and rubber bands I had perfectly shaped patterns that were much easier to attach. Exactly what I do on fairing, just the slightest layer burn is all that’s needed, even that can be removed by light sanding as the very last step (which is how I’ll do it on my Single planked Cheerful when I start it.
  8. I had a great build log on my Pegasus, too bad it was lost in the systems crash. The balsa filler works fine, I used it in the bow and also the stern as I recall. I didn’t have the alignment issues some are describing with the gun port patterns though it is essential to pre-shape them at the bow. I did this by tracing the pattern from the plans, transferring that to a 1x4 inch board, cutting out one side, soaking the pattern about 20 minutes (not too long or it will delaminate) then clamping it to that board. This keeps it from wrecking the frames. When fairing remember to keep one edge of the frame otherwise you might loose the shape of the hull and/or get uneven sides. At any rate, it’s a challenge but not that difficult. Maybe more advice than you need, I’m sure it will go great.

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